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Cool.

Seems unclear here though what the max SPL is at say 1 meter from source being a phone or laptop.. it’s to relative to say ‘it’s not that loud’ type a thing !

thanks

Price and availability

Can you turn off bluetooth in the BT30D pro? I want to use another BT device with LDAC via the rca port but the built in bluetooth stays active.

My friend, if that is your real voice in the video, and not A.I. generated, then your English is nicely progress

No way that small chip can produce 300 watts RMS per channel

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There were a tone of those amplifiers boards dumped onto the market. Most are "repaired" boards that were returned after failing in their primary application. Check these boards *very* carefully before you fire them up. The chart on the front pages of the data sheet tells the story .... at low distortion.... 100 watts per channel on 8 ohms and 200 on 4.... The 300 claim is for 10% distortion which would drive the chip into protection in very short order.

Which one you said has cleaner 50 watt power? Thnaks

Just remember that playing music through a Class-D amp isn't going to generate as much heat as pumping a constant sine wave through it will.

Heatsink is undersized and unusable for 120w

listening test through youtube is USELESS! You can hear if speakers color a lot on some frequency or if it has too much or too little treble or too much or too little bass. But you will never be able to hear the difference between two amplifiers!

I would recommend the LJM L15D class-d which is a better amplifier. 150 watts measured by me.

the amplifier is built 100% the same as many other cheap class-d except for a different amplifier ic. So the same weaknesses as many others

watts in the data sheet are in 10%THD which is very common for this type of amplifier ic. 10%THD is a useless measurement and not nice to listen to. You should measure watts in 1%THD and then you will get MUCH MUCH less watts out of the amplifier! Also see that THD is measured in 1 watt, which is USELESS as you will always get better THD in 1 watt than 100 watts. THD= total harmonic distortion. The factory does not write the whole truth. It looks like it's a better amp than it is. Heatsink never manages 128w watts either

I may have missed it, but was the output Peak or RMS?

Nice parts, with the exception of the non-shrouded/shielded output inductors. Also poly film type capacitors on the output stage are preferred.

Lovely review <3

Aiyma a07 max comes in case with PSU

Nice to hear the comments from your viewers.. Please try the IRS2092, it is more powerful than that due to the mosfet output drivers and the ic only is the controller, not like this on the video that the ic itself is the amp.

great video

Okay.. here's the thing. Those outputs are not single ended. They are BTL (bridged) outputs so when you attach a single scope probe you are reading only one side of the bridge. If you attached a second probe to the negative speaker post, you would find the same audio signal, but out of phase. 1) The actual output voltage is double what the scope shows so .... Power = sqr(Voltage) / Impedance. ... V= 13 + 13 == 26 volts : p = (26 x 26) / 8 = 676 / 8 == 84 watts. or 168 watts on 4 ohms. 2) The PWM carrier you detected, will be on both sides of the bridge, but in phase, so that it produces no output. (this is pretty normal for Class D, btw) The other issues ... low gain, bad thermal solution, etc. are on point for Fosi products.

I have to 110-160 Watt speakers shoud i buy it or not ?

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Wondom bdm8 or 9 have verry good cooling but this need fan to if wan 150watt per channel

Super

What's the minimum amps required by this amplifier?

I purchased this amplifier for my future son in law. I ordered it without the stock power supply and bought a more powerful power supply for it. In a large room, it drives a pair of Monitor Audio Monitor 100 stand mounts and a repurposed Sony passive subwoofer from an old HT in a box system. Source is an entry level Audio Technica turntable and bluetooth. It sounds very good on both and gets very loud. I have recently added the Douk Audio T8 Pro 7 band equaliser which is also very good. I like this setup very much, and my future SiL loves it. One thing to bear in mind, if you're looking for max wattage, is that this amp splits the available power between the two TPA3255s, irrespective of whether or not you are using the passive speaker outputs (which makes sense). Accordingly, if your power supply is, say 240 watts, only 120 watts will be available for the stereo output. If you don't intend using the passive subwoofer outputs, you would be better off with a different TPA3255 amplifier, such as the Fosi Audio ZA3, V3 or BT20A Pro, Aiyima A07 Pro or Max etc.

I was looking to buy this just to power my sealed subwoofer i built using a ground zero 8" 4ohm driver that needs a 150w rms ideally, and a mininum of 100w rms, but this amp doesn't seem to be up for the task. Since i've got already an active pair of speaker, but i thought of going fully passive one day( and thus replacing them), i really had my mind set on this, but thankfully i just came across your video. At this point i might just go for a Luxus Audio SD200, control the main volume using an inline potentiometer, and feed the signal to my active speaker from the luxus's line out rca connectors. As you might have guessed, i have a 2.1 system that consists of an existing 2.0 active speakers with no sub output, and a home made subwoofer that i want to integrate with. If you can recommend me other options, either be it like the BT30D Pro, or plate amps with line out that can at least partially live up to their claimed wattage, i'd be very greatful! Thanks!

Hi, Thanks a lot for your video but I'm sorry I'm not very familiar with some of the more technical terms. Was it 40watts per channel into 8ohm speakers? my speakers have a sensitivity of 87db. Will it be good enough for my small bedroom? Thanks in advance. I have my eyes on this mainly for the subwoofer out.