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The Invent0r
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2019
I’m interested in electronics, computers, software, physics, and engineering/technology in general. I'm currently teaching myself electrical engineering, software, and PCB design and posting my projects!
Diy drone issues, not sure how to fix. Can anyone help? (details in the description)
This is a drone I'm currently trying to get working. The flight controller uses an atmega328p as the microcontroller, an mpu6050 as the imu, and an nrf24l01 as the radio receiver. I'm currently having issues getting it to work. for some reason the nrf24l01 keeps losing signal and resetting when I try to increase the throttle. I think it might be because the motors are causing too much EMI (noise) i tried replacing the motors with LEDs and didn't have any major issues (the brightness changed according to the pwm signal). I then tried adding in motors one by one and after the second motor is when the issue starts. I'm not really sure how to solve this problem. Electronoobs built a similar drone but he didn't seem to have the same issue.
here is a video of electronoobs' drone project:
th-cam.com/video/J0x4ChjUS00/w-d-xo.htmlsi=O8S46bcS889Ewt29
also, here are some pictures of my schematic, pcb, and 3d model.
www.reddit.com/r/diydrones/s/QtussaeTPY
here is a video of electronoobs' drone project:
th-cam.com/video/J0x4ChjUS00/w-d-xo.htmlsi=O8S46bcS889Ewt29
also, here are some pictures of my schematic, pcb, and 3d model.
www.reddit.com/r/diydrones/s/QtussaeTPY
มุมมอง: 910
วีดีโอ
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This is a modified Ben Eater 6502 Computer PCB board that I’ve been working on. It has a serial I/O port so that I can send and receive data to a display like my laptop, LCD, or CRT monitor. I used Grant Searle’s video and keyboard interface circuit and found a blog that helped with setting up the serial I/O using a 6551 ACIA chip. So far, all it is doing is running a version of Wozmon that I f...
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This was a mini project I made a while ago to combine everything I learned about arduino up to that point (digital I/O, analog input, and PWM). its basically a motor controlled with a potentiometer and a row of LEDs controlled with a shift register.
Great work. You should add a hex or mnemonic keyboard.
Please replace your smoke alarm battery
Nice work! I did an implementation of Ben's project as well. I toyed with the idea of doing something like this, just putting everything on a PCB, never got to it and moved on to other projects. It's nice to see it done. Just curious whats the size of the PCB?
Thanks! It was 371mmx299mm, but could definitely have been made much smaller.
@@invent0r137 Thank you! Appreciate the reply.
Very cool build! I am also building the Ben Eater 6502 computer and I plan to have a PS/2 interface and composite (RCA) output just like you. However I am wondering where you got the PS/2 and composite connectors from?
Thanks! I got them from Digikey. But there are a few different variations so if you're making a PCB make sure you get the one that matches the footprint you're using.
my mannn
That is so sweet. Wish the LCD wasn't as bright as the sun though. It's nearly impossible to see anything on it in the video.
I really appreciate when people use through-hole components instead of SMD (caps, crystals and etc); good job!
woah this is awesome what the hell
Have you tried running visicalc on your 6502?
I have not, does it require basic first?
I would suggest adding some big electrolytic capacitors near to power input of atmega 328 ic and the nrf24l01 for testing ,try with 100 ,220 ,330,470,1000uf etc and see if that solves the issue. Also add flyback diodes at each of the motor connections. If all of this doesn't work try swapping out the battery with a bigger one for testing purposes and see if everything goes well,bcoz its possible that the battery is unable to provide enough current and dropping voltage too much
I agree with it. Checking the power rails on an oscilloscope could also be helpful
Thanks I'll try adding larger capacitors, I am already using schottky diodes for all the motors, I read those were more responsive, and faster. The issue with using a larger battery is that most of the components run at 3.3V including the motors, so I think having a larger battery would damage the motors and anything else without a regulator.
@@invent0r137 I meant instead of using a smaller lipo battery that youre using ,try using a 18650 or higher capacity 3.7v battery rated above 2000 mah ,single cell drone batteries with high C rating could also be a good alternative
@@diydixit Yeah I tried a 1s 600mah lipo, with a c rating of 45C. I think that should be more than enough, but it didn't fix the problem.
@@invent0r137 sticking on the power supply, if you are running the motors and 328 on the same voltage supply that is probably your issue. Big capacitors might fix the problem but really your power architecture needs re thinking. Your motors should run from the battery and the control electronics should run at a lower voltage produced by a regulator. That way when the motes cause the voltage to dip there will still be some headroom for the regulator to make a stable lower voltage for the electronics. Are you sure your motors can run from a 2s lipo? Then just add a linear regulator and 2 small capacitors to make your vdd rail.
i think ur motor is intercepting with the communication of the radio module try a shielded module or try to reduce noise also check in ur software if the error is with the esc or with the communication and also ziptie ur lose wires or they will snap or get cut also why is that capacitor in the middle of ur drone legs so big cut it short
Yeah that's what I suspect. I'll try a shielded radio module, and more caps. I'm currently using multiwii and checked to make sure the setting were all right.
Try adding a large capacitor to the nrf24l01 power supply terminals, for example 470uf. A low C lipo parameter may also be a problem, you should use a cell with a C level of 30 and a capacity of around 500mAh.
I tried a 100uF cap at one point but it didn't help much. I was using a 1s 600mah lipo with a c rating of 45C, I figured that would be more than enough.
What size of battery are you using? Also i would recommend you probe your lines to see id there are any voltage spikes or sags. You should also solder 1000ig caps acriss your power rails
I'm using a 1s 300mah lipo I also tried a 1s 600mah lipo. The 300mah had a c rating of 20C, and the 600mah had a rating of 45C. But they both gave the same issue. I soldered a single 1000uF cap to the power rails and thought that should be enough, do I need more? The added weight from adding more caps may not help.
Damn, dream project, and it looks soo clean and awsome
Thanks, hopefully I can get it working and make a full tutorial of all the issues I ran into.
@@invent0r137 thanks brother 🙏
try a cap and then try the adding a motor on to it each time. Maybe try different motors
I have one 0.1uF cap on each motor. Should I add more?
@@invent0r137 are they low esr caps? And if they are esr are you sure they are real and not fakes.
@@brandonw987 sorry for the late response, I just noticed your question. I'm not sure about the esr, but I did get them from Amazon. I'll get them from digikey next time to make sure they're reliable.
@@invent0r137 yea I have heard about places like Amazon having clones.
It's not a current, but it's the electro noise made by the motors. You should add some capacitors to the VCC of the radio module and everything should be fine
I already have 3 10uF tantalum capacitors and a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor on the radio module.
@@invent0r137 no thats not the issue..please check about PWM frequency tables and pins....not all the pins are good for all the purpose..u need to use the high frequency PWM outs or Low frequency PWM Outs
@@ghostronics-4113 I'm using the multiwii software, I'm not sure if there's a way to change the pwm frequency on there but I'll check.
@@invent0r137 if it's so..what's your main problem.... sound of the motor or ..Un even distribution of PWM ??
@invent0r137 really sorry bro just now I understood the problem.... are you using the NRF24L01+ module directly connected to tV supply or..are u using a 3.3v regulator ??...is you are using the 5V directly the. That's the issue ..use a 3.3 v regulator or use the nrf24l01+adaptor
What is the maximum current your ESCs can use? I think the motors require more current than the ESCs can provide, and thus the ESCs will shutdown as a protection mechanism
I'm not sure about the maximum current but I'm using an SI2302-TP mosfet, which has a continuous drain current of 3A. I figured that would be enough but I might need one with more current capacity. Is the continuous drain current the right metric to look at in this case?
@@invent0r137 the maximum value of the possible continuous drain current should be higher than the current consumed by the motors, but keep in mind that there may also be spikes when the current can increase a lot (when abruptly increasing the speed of the motor), so also check for those scenarios. Are the ESC incorporated in the microcontroller? Every drone motor is connected to an ESC
@@sergiupopescu5435 i made the flight controller board myself, but I incorporated the ESCs on there instead of separating them. I'll look for a better mosfet just in case the current spikes are causing problems.
Oh I see, you did a lot of work, congrats🔥 another issue may also be the noise that interferes with the remote, but that can be easily tested just by running the motors at full speed from hardcoded commands, without the need of the remote. Hope you overcome this issue.
@@sergiupopescu5435 Thanks, I actually tried hardcoding the motors to run at full speed and didn't have any issue. Nothing was overheating so I assumed the tolerances were fine. So I think that narrows the problem to the radio module...maybe.
When you increase the throttle the motor takes too much current and the nrf loses its power. Try using capacitors. What is the mosfet that you have used for the esc?
I already have 3 10uF tantalum caps and a 0.1uF ceramic cap on the radio module power leads. I figured that would be enough to filter out any noise. I'm using an SI2302-TP mosfet to drive the motors.
I think the issue is with radio receiver ur using nrf24l01 is not very capable to use for high frequency transmissions. (i mean that a drone radio transmitting is have to be more powerful communication with transmitter and receiver so if u use these modules that every small noise generate will interrupt the whole connection and it keeps stopping) my suggestion are try using different type radio transmitter and receiver or modify it from software side(means like if the transmitter signal send drone is armed then change the code to use internal sensors and make the drone take off automatically for some height then check for further input signals (not sure if it sets for ur system) i have done it for some of my old builds it works but it's like we don't have full access for it. and for those diy drone builders (like you, me) i recommend to watch Joop Brokking's video series it helped me and i learned lot of things from him. hope you can success your project! th-cam.com/play/PL0K4VDicBzshwCpUHzIB6hOLQVkDFHbxC.html&feature=shared
Someone suggested I use an E01-ML01DP radio module instead. I may try that soon. I'll take a look at the videos but it looks like he's using brushless motors.
Try using ebyte E01 ML01DP5. I've used them around motors and such and have not had a problem
Interesting, I haven't heard of that before. I'll look into it. Looks like it has an rf shield which might help.
Good day~The. awesome ,
I have built the computer using Mohamed's PCB design that I had fabricated by JLC PCB. Their minimum order is five boards, so I have four extras for sale. if you'd like to buy one (and you live in the UK), I'm selling them for £25 each.
What can be done with this circuit?
your 1,000 subscriber Ü
The PCB is really shiny, did you ultrasonically clean it? Nice work!
No I didn't, it came that way. Thanks!
My dude. This is so sick. Well done.
Thanks man!
5:43 not matter you leds change after you click button they should be same as you wrote, bcoz its reading them from memorry? and you just wrote data wrong address xD
5:21 there is it. you wrote 0100 again with 0101 values. and what i would do is changes addres 0101 and hit write button when dip switches is ready LOL. then go back 0100 and change that
4:21 you made nono. you are still address 0100 when supposed program 0101
It seems like a machine from the Star Wars
What make of keyboard is that? It can do USB as well as PS2?
I think I got it off of Amazon, it was originally built as a USB keyboard, but it came with a USB to PS2 adapter which is what I'm using in the video.
Great work, It will be nice to see your ALU and Control unit designs.
Thanks! I uploaded all of the schematics on github if you wanted to take a look at them there.
very good, i hope ben sees this
Boy you really know how to leave on a good note! I feel ripped off! Now I have to go digging in your videos to see if you followed up.
Haha sorry about that, I started working on another project after this. I'll eventually go back to this one but I don't think there's a lot more I could do with it besides adding in the BASIC interpreter.
Cool Computer! Wonder what I could do with the 65C02...
Looking at the blinking leds....just gives an awesome feel
Well done! (and to where you have taken this project)... I watched Ben's whole series, so I know there's a lot of learning in that mass of wires 😂
Thanks, haha yeah definitely!
Well done! Real nice
I had a 6502 based system way back in 1979. Its architecture was very similar to your version of Ben Eater's computer. I still have a dump of the monitor program from my original machine, so I thought I'd see if I could modify it to work on Ben Eater's design. I was wondering how to get a display up and running (the original used an RF modulator to go into a TV). Your video has given me some ideas on how to get something up and running.
Cool !
Thanks for sharing, but the GITHUB files are missing components from the KICAD PCB board. Like for example in the ATMEGA part, some resistors, capacitors and crystal. Thanks.
Any plans on video with lvds?
What are lvds?
Well done it’s a work of art!
This is fantastic, amazing work! I would gladly buy this as a kit, have you considered selling the boards with a bag of components?
Thanks! I used an existing design for the video and keyboard interface. Since it's copyrighted I don't think I'd be able to sell it as a kit unfortunately 😕. But if you decide to build it I can help answer any questions.
Do you have one of this PCB for sale ?
This is amazing, well done.
Nicely done!
Very impressive. Respect and congratulations!
Nice project. Further development could include Gpascal from Nick Gammon. You can use the VIA for serial as he does or adapt the code for the ACIA (which I did for another SBC board). Also he make a recommendation for increasing the RAM available which you could make use of. EHbasic is available also and should be adaptable as it has the IO section near the end of the source code. Good luck!