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Thanks! :) Yeah, I'm also a retro Commodore geek. ;)

LOL. Someone was looking after me that night. If it hadn't restarted then people would have heard me cursing from 10 miles away.

LOL. Yep, welcome to the world of BIG 3D printing. That's why it sucks when it fails towards the end. 🤣

Wow, thanks for that link. That's certainly something worth looking at. I can't believe how cheap the motors are. They would certainly be useful for the X and Y axis.

LOL. You're not kidding. The power cut happened at 3pm and I didn't get home until 5:30pm, so I was even more impressed that the print stuck to the bed, but I'd been keeping the room at 70 degrees so that probably helped. The USB 3 stick I use for the STL files seems to upset this machine. If it is inserted when I switch it on it locks up, and the restart did the same thing. I was surprised that it recognised the recovery file when I reinserted it. At least I know it works. 😁

Interestingly enough, my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max refuses to update its firmware off this same stick too. I have to use a USB 2.0 one.

To be honest, I don't even look at my mesh after doing this on either my 3 Max or 4 Max. Now you're making me curious. :) Remember, you're talking 0.17mm and that's what the auto-level it there to compensate for. On my giant TronXY with the 1000x1000 bed, the auto-level can theoretically compensate for a 1.5mm difference across the bed, but I manage to get it below 0.5mm.

I haven't tried the STA method, but watched videos on it. I've stuck with BL5000 as they basically do the same thing, and I was used to it from using it on my N3M. I just like the way you can quickly keep probing a point and adjust before moving onto the next on and actually see the value. Please let me know what you think as you'll have experience with both methods.

When I replaced my printhead, I did a complete relevel. One thing I did discover was that if you do a complete relevel then do this: #1: Slack off all of the screws under the bed so the glass rests on the metal frame. #2: Recalibrate your Z Axis cutoff sensors and make sure they both light up correctly as they trip. #3: Press that center icon in between the up-down arrows that raise/lower the bed so that the print head compensates for the bed height on the left and right sides. #4: Auto-level the bed and use the screws underneath to raise areas to reduce the difference between the highest and lowest points (I find that about 10 attempts will get me below a 0.5mm difference). #5: Set the z-offset by doing a test print and adjusting the nozzle height as it prints the first layer. Like you, I found that I was maxing out my screw height on one corner when I did my first couple of bed levels. I think it was because I missed doing the left/right compensation when doing the z-axis cutoffs, because when I did that, my bed screws are way lower and leveling was a lot easier. Hope that helps.

As I did the update as soon as it was assembled, I couldn't compare it to see if it made any difference to the prints. My brother is still using the previous firmware (which is what my model came with) and he's printing fine, so it might just be a bug fix or modification to the display (or something equally minor). It would be handy if they listed what each update addresses. Based on my brother's experience with his 4 Max I would say that you're probably fine to use either of the last 2 firmware versions, but if you have an older machine with some pre-April firmware then you really should update it. If you have the 2003 firmware then you NEED to update it ASAP. :-)

Thanks. Much appreciated. It took a while, but I got there in the end. 🙂

Thanks David. I could easily go to a 0.4mm nozzle and reduce the lines, but it is time v production, and when you do stuff at this scale, you have to expect some "post processing". With cold molding, I'm guessing you did the epoxy and fiberglass route which scares the hell out of me, so I can't even imaging how much effort you put into it. 🙂 My smaller Elegoo machines should be able to churn out the little pieces in excellent quality. The last big stuff should be the neck and mid section. I'm waiting on Ian to redo the mid section files for the large build (I sent him some ideas for removing a lot of the supports needed).

Just watched your link, great stuff! I wouldn't know where to start with that more conventional approach. It makes you admire the original Shawcraft builders even more.

I'm using PLA plus, but that ring is huge and flat and comes out at a 90 degree angle (which is needed for the dome to rotate), so there was no way to really avoid supports unless I sliced it in 2 parts.

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC what flow rate are you setting? it seems extremely low,like sub 10mms. with a 0.4 and pla plus you should be able to extrude at two, three times the speed. the support chosen is to reach hard to get places where normal supports cannot reach. u are using the wrong support structure sir. tree is not for this.

@@reyalPRON I had my flow set at 100%, but you're probably right about the tree supports being the issue, although they have worked on other massive prints like my K9 body (but they were not as sense as this one)

Cheers. I know what you mean. What I like about the 3 and 4 Max printers are the extra diagonal braces, so if you find the gantry is off slightly you can adjust them to force it to 90 degrees. Fortunately I didn't need to, but it is handy.

If you contact Elegoo support they will send you one. It is just a generic 16GB or less card with a cheap USB adapter so you can copy the files to it from your PC. The ones that come with the machines aren't the best/fastest cards so you really didn't miss out, but they should have put one in the bag for you.

I'm reminded of it every time I have to climb that ladder to see what is going on. 🙂 Mine is the 1.6m machine. They also do a 2m version.

Thanks again. I'm taking note of all this good advice. Much appreciated.

I'm just thinking it is the PLA+ expanding as it cools and grazing the nozzle. Each layer with the supports takes ages as it has to draw the outline of every tree top.

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC Ah! I've read where the PLA expands a bit after it comes out the nozzle. I bought an Elegoo Neptune 4 for my daughter and her family. It came with a fan system that mounted to the gantry and would tun on to blow cool air across the layers as it came out the nozzle, but would only do this when after the first few bed layers had been set down. Was thinking of making something similar for my printer.

@@davidturner5418 Yep, the 4 Max has a massive bank of extra fans to quickly cool the filament for the fast prints. It works, but it makes a lot of noise. There is a silent mode you can activate, and a switch on the fans to manually turn them off.

Good thinking! That might be cause. I'm uploading a video now that shows the second attempt failing at the same point. I've split the dome into 2 parts for a third attempt that removes the need for the supports completely, but I'll try turning the speed up earlier when I do the mid-section as that will need supports for the gun/arm box. Thanks.

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC you may also need to build a giant enclosure out of Styrofoam panels you can buy at the hardware store. Those panels that have aluminum foil on one side work great. If any cool air blows across that giant print bed it's going to cause an enormous amount of issues.

@@Borkery I'd hate to deal with an enclosure for this thing. It would have to be a giant tent. 🙂 I have it in its own room and have the AC vents shut off on that side, and I don't use the fans. Might be worth experimenting with the room temperature. I keep it in the low 70s.

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC what matters is it stays stable. and doesnt get really cold at night time. if there is cool breezes blowing across the print bed from any poorly sealed doors it WILL cause warping on giant prints and it will make you pull your hair out when 1 very important tree support gets snapped off because it got cold and the nozzle hit it when it traveled past as it takes an hour to put down 1 layer. you gotta keep that big betch cozy warm n hot. And i know it would suck to do. but you gotta figure out some kind of hot glued together strofoam panel enclosure that has doors on all sides so you can lift and remove doors to get at the printer from different sides. Not gonna be fun, but this is big printer life!. Focus on doing testing like having 4 100mmx100mm boxes at 4 corners of the bed being built with infill in them, try to tune the printer and its retraction settings so that it can travel between all 4 points at fast speeds without causing too much resonance to come out in the surface detail of the print. Making a big betch printer like that move fast is going to cause alot of vibration and oscillation in the frame. and that will come out as ringing and patterns in the print surface finish. you must find the happy medium point of speed vs what the frame/motion system can handle before it just starts to get sloppy. a great goal would be to have that thing cruzing at at least 100mms.

i start getting nervous if my print room gets anywhere near 70f. i like to keep it at 75 or more. preferably 80F +

LOL. Several times "offline". You could probably tell how I was trying not to swear in the video. 😀

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC I built a full size Dalek many years ago and hand made all the parts. I measured up the armor slats cut them all out but the original measurement was wrong, had to do em again. Interestingly it took damn near as long to build the Dalek as it would to 3D print it. Sits in my bedroom 14 years later waiting for the electronics to be fitted.

@@davidturner5418 I had the dome fail again in exactly the same place. I think the nozzle is hitting the dense supports as it tries to print the flat surface to allow it to swivel. I'm going to cut the file into 2 pieces at that point which should eliminate any need for supports.

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC Bugger, that is irritating. I am sorry to say I am too new to 3D printing to offer advice you know already or have not heard somewhere.

@@davidturner5418 3D printing seems to have an element of voodoo magic involved. 3rd one seems to be going well at the moment. I'll post a vid later on once I crank the speed up on it.

Hi. It just for me. I've been a Dr Who fan since I was a kid watching Jon Pertwee, and always fancied a full size Dalek. I've got a video to uploaded showing that Daleks have more issues than just stairs... they also have to contend with door frames. ;-)

@LanchburyConsultingLLC you absolute legend. I love it. Can't wait to see the final outcome. That printer is an absolute tank!

@@DropDetec I just had the dome print fail (a track broke and caused a layer shift) so I've had to restart it. This big printer is quite a handful compared to my regular ones. 🙂

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC I've only seen a couple videos about it. Looks like a beast. But as you say also seems a pain to maintain

@@DropDetec Balancing on the ladder is the hard part. I think I have it pretty much under control now, but due to the scale, it needs more TLC than a 420x420 or 310x310 machine. At least the bed cleans up easily with normal window cleaner. 🙂

I did two Judge Dredd helmets on the Sunlu and Elegoo printers perfectly without them for the top. It all depends on the speed and angle of the print. As long as you have thick walls and a gradual closing of the dome then you "should" be good. 🙂

I think this is the issue: On the SD card for the screen, you just put the single file on the root of the card, but on the USB stick to update the machine you have to put the FOLDER with the files inside on the root of the card. I think the whole folder you need to copy onto the stick is called "ELEGOO_UPDATE_DIR" and there should be a bunch of files inside it

Thanks 🙂

HI. When you power them up, you can use the screens to find out what your firmware is and you can go to the Elegoo website's download section to see what the latest version is there. IF you don't have the latest then you can download it from the website (use the READ ME file supplied) and update your machines as per my video and that document, That said, my brother is still using the previous update that came installed on his machine (and mine), so if you're worried about doing it and you have that "almost latest" update then you could use that for now. Just remember that when you do update the firmware then it wipes everything, so at that point you'll need to let the vibration adjustment run again, re-level the machine and readjust the z-offset which is why it is simpler to update the firmware first so that you don't have to do those other things twice. Remember when updating the firmware: update the machine first with the USB stick and the screen afterwards with the SD card. Hopefully you'll have a fairly recent firmware if it is a new purchase from Elegoo and you won't need the fixpack.

You're correct. It is not a Klipper motherboard, so it uses Marlin. That said, I've heard of people buying these machines to upgrade themselves, although finding information is hard. I'm hoping that TronXY offer an upgrade solution eventually (they have for some other machines), but for now I'll use it to get used to the fun and frustration of using a big printer. Jumping from a Neptune 3 Max to this was quite a learning curve. 🙂

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC i can imagine it was a pretty steep learning curve jumping to this machine. i saw they offer klipper as an option for their 600mm machine, if you could get klipper on this i am sure you could run this printer significantly faster than its printing currently. regardless printing isnt a speed race, and i hope the machine brings you lots of joy :D

@@PrintingPress3D Absolutely. I only have to look at my Marlin based Neptune 3 Max and compare it to my Klipper based Neptune 4 Max to see the massive difference. If you haven't found it, there's a video in my list where I print a large AC/DC bell on the 3 and 4 Max machines at the same time.

@@LanchburyConsultingLLC i have not seen that video yet, im going to have to check it out. have a wonderful week and happy 3d printing

@@PrintingPress3D Thanks. I've got to go back to work for 3 weeks so I'll be putting this on hold until I get back.

Thanks. Comes in handy for entertaining. 🙂

I got my STL files from a guy named Ian. He has a group on Facebook that might interest you: facebook.com/groups/1614508768889726

Yes, it seems to do a good job of it although tweaking takes a while on a bed this big.

I'll track that down and check it out.

The standard 0.6mm that came fitted, although they did supply me with some other sizes.

Once this skirt is finished, I'm going to really crank it up on the 3 remaining bases. I won't mind if I mess up a 1 day print, but I want to get this skirt piece done before I really start experimenting. Now this x-axis issue seems to have gone I feel a lot better.

I'm almost done with the back section of the skirt and that was done at 175% (apart from the first layer). Works well.