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No, this is Hanwei Tinker Pearce bastard sword.

It's water. I used the milk, filled the empty container with water.

Thanks! And to be honest, I don't think I've tried that. Two fast cuts, striking the bottom one first and cutting the upper one as it falls... Sounds fun, I'll try it next time I make a video :D Thanks for the cool idea!

@@Sukkamariini Years back a group of friends and I adapted a series of Toyama-Ryu double cutting patterns to the under-first carton and bottle combos. If you search Toyama Tameshigiri Cutting Patterns, you can find the original patterns as practiced. Hema often uses them for mat cutting. They make great inspiration

It's made by Windlass so it really never had a factory edge. I believe it had something to do with indian export laws, but at the time they didn't sell any sharp weapons. I bought this from cult of athena who had a sharpening service. The edge is ok, it has some bevel to it but it is sharp. You could say that it could be better, but I don't think it's bad enough to be completely resharpen either.

That is exactly what I do. Drink the milk, fill the empty container with water. What made you think that it was milk?

Thank you!

Спасибо

It's one of my favorites, surprisingly nimble and agile blade that still has mass and width to deliver devastating cuts. It really is a pleasure to handle. I would recommend it. It's an excellent sword, especially for the price.

@@Sukkamariinihey! Thanks for replying, awesome thanks for your confirmation, I admire your cuts, keep watering your grass and sending cartons to Valhal! 🎉

@@Sky-Lan3 Thanks, I will continue my cartoncalpypse! 🤣 Oh btw. if you buy the sword, you might want to make sure that it is sharpened or the seller has a sharpening service available. Windlass swords are quite nice for the price, but due to Indian export laws they cannot ship sharpened swords. So they often sell them with blunt edge. This was the case before, I don't know has it changed. My sword was bought from and sharpened by Kult of Athena, the sharpening is not pefrect, it has quite a bevel. But it is still very much sharp and functional edge. I haven't had reason to resharpen it either and I bought this sword 2009. So a lot could have changed since then. I don't know if KoA sharpening service is better or worse or if Windlass ships these swords sharp these days. A lot could have changed in 15 years. I know that windlass does have it's battlecry line of swords which are shipped sharpened.

@@Sukkamariini thanks for your input! I’ll do more research, I’d love to target practice with one of those soon, I have the whole Viking gear just want a sword, and I’ll make another shield

Thank you!

This has rectangular shaft with very rounded corners. It actually feels quite natural and I found the edge alignment after few strikes. It's not about the shape of the shaft, I just need a lot more training :D

@@Sukkamariini Octagonal that is thickest in the direction of the blade is historically one of the most common types. Noting that it requires a marker pen and a ruler and a chisel and you can just draw lines along the edges where to chisel all along it I regard it as a nice little upgrade that takes a whole lot less time than the time it takes to master it. I fully do think that it may not be crucial or necessary. I just personally have a preference to do the tinkering part if it can be justified by history.

Depends what you are looking for. I have a few cold steel axes. cold steel frontier hawk, viking hand axe and viking axe. The largest, viking axe needed some work to get assembled but if you got the tools, it's no problem. Though the cold steel axes aren't exactly historically accurate they aren't far off either. They still are very much functional weapons and I love to handle them. I especially like the hickory handles, it's a night and day difference compared to low quality pourous wood that I had with Hanwei francisca throwing axe. So if you want a good fighting axe with pretty low price, you could go with cold steel. There are others more historically accurate axe makers, Arms & Armor for example, I do not own any of their weapons, but they look more historically accurate and very good in quality. Then again, the price point is much higher. But if the price is no objection, you could try Arms&Armor. Another vendor that I've been looking at lately is Wulflund. They make very beautiful and functional looking axes. Some are very historically accurate looking, and the price point is rather affordable for a good axe. I do not own any of their weapons, so I can't really say much more than they look very nice. But if you happen to get one, let me know how it is. :D Hanwei and CAS Hanwei is something I would not recommend when it comes to their axes, polearms and spears. I've had few bad experiences with their axes, mainly the poor quality of the wood. And I've seen a review where their quite pricy Yari spear snapped in half in a cut at a rather light target.

@@Sukkamariini thanks for the reply. Some of those axes are sexy.

The sudden and wide curvature, narrow point and crossguard and handle (basically the whole sword) are identical to a shamshir. Could also be a kilij

Мои уши были и остаются в полной безопасности. Спасибо за ваше внимание.

Why? In particular time period? How are they better than the rest?

@@Sukkamariini the design it's the sword that beat the Roman's and its also ment to be used with a shield the correct technique you can hook around your opponents shield with the false edge of witch the first seven inches are Sharp and if you turn the sword around you can use it as a hook weapon to penetrate the armor of your opponent also very easy to use just a flick of the wrist and you can end the fight get one you will fall in love with it

Shamshir is a persian sword not an arabic or turkic sword

Thanks. Fitted the axe head to the shaft first, secured it down with rubber hammer, drilled a hole for the screw, fastened the screw to the nut and it felt there was a little looseness. I hammered in small pieces of wood to wedge it tight.

@@Sukkamariini thank you

Yes, it is the older model. The new one has more decorative details on the guard. I must say I prefer this older model.

I was only doing cuts that day, then again. No reason not to train form while cutting, and no reason to train cutting with bad form. So yeah, I think you are right on that :)

"guard" postures are nothing more than the natural beginning and end of a strike (with the exception of "long-point", which all strikes go through) ... nothing more. From each "guard", you have a certain range of options of actions that have a good chance of success, a range of options that won't, a range of attacks that are open to the enemy, and a range of lines that are closed. There is no such thing as the perfect "guard". "Form" lol. He goes from "Wrath guard" into the cut. The conclusion of the cut looks more or less like the "Full Iron Gate "guard"" from Fiore or the "Iron Door" "guard" from Vadi; from which, you can easily launch an ascending cut or a thrust, and can ward blows targeting below the shoulder, coming from his right (opponent's left). After the Iron gate, he assumes the "fool's guard", which can act as either a resting position or an invitation, from which you can launch a thrust and ward strikes targeting below the ribcage (possibly the shoulder if the distance is sufficient). The he returns to something akin to the "Crown" guard from Vadi.

I AGREE FORM IS JUST A PART OF PRACTICE FOR FIGHTING YOU DON’T ALWAYS HAVE TO RETURN TO YOUR FORM WHEN YOU FINISH THAT’S WHY IT’S THEY END THIS IS NOT SHAW BROTHERS 😂😂😂💯 YES I PRACTICE TAEKWONDO ALSO LEARNING WING CHUN MORE IMPORTANT IS BREATHING BEING ABLE TO GET TO THE END OF THE FIGHT WITH YOU BEING VICTORIOUS ⚔️🤺🗡️💯💯💯💯💯