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Just started building mine yesterday, I was watching this hoping that I hadn’t made any cock ups 😂. All good other than I haven’t got any thread lock so I may have to go back and redo the screws running into metal again. It’s a fairly straight forward build as far as I’m aware which is probably just as well for me as it’s the first rc kit I’ve built, I’ve had plenty of rc cars I’ve stripped down for maintenance but never built one from scratch before. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the series to check my work against 👍

Rob Fox on the thumbnail means an instant upvote from me!

Was a great weekend . My 1st big non club style race and really enjoyed it Great vibes all weekend

wow, I usually go to the Tamiya Junkies events held at RHR, nowhere near as busy as this. Nice1..

What a belter of a video. The interviews are gold, particularly Rob, James and Matt 😂 I’d love take part on one of these. Hat off to Rob and all who made it happen 👏👏👏

Great weekend, nice to meet you yeti👍🏻

This track looks awesome, great video👍

That was a brilliant vid! .. looked a great day

that track looks fun, i need to get my finger out and visit!

Watch again at 0.5 speed, makes it sounds like everyone is drunk. 🤣

Fantastic job, really enjoyed watching. Great to hear from the drivers and their progress. Superb job all and great work Yeti for pulling it together 👊

Hi is there any more videos on there way ?

I'm currently on the fence wanting to try a new 2wd and it's a toss up between the B7 a msb1 I've drove the B7 and was really impressed how well it drove, unfortunately no one has a mugen local so it would be a small gamble but from what you've said it doesn't seem like the msb1 is a bad car.

Ah well, walls always come out in front of us. Hope you get to run it soon so we hear your thoughts as well!

@chowettgoes thought you would at least wait till Sunday tip take mick outta me :D

At least you got Disco Discs right 😂 Great chat chaps and good to hear about racing experience (tiny) with the B7 & MSB1. Race on…

You broke an MSB1 arm?! I don’t think I would tell the world that on camera! 😅 PS - I agree on preferring the Mugen. You should try a Schumacher LD3 if you haven’t already!

It's an exact replica of tlr 5.0. Only differences is king pin acclamation. The chassis and front bulk is practically identical. Tlr already has motor mount options to put it where ever. The 11 gram electrics pate is slightly counter sunk which would be about the only upgrade for tlr. I run a 30 gram weight under my esc and having counter sinked a half a millimeter would benefit but I don't believe it's gonna make the between the TQ or the top 5

You should ream out the last spacer in the shocks as the designer explained in his video, so it’s no resistance on the shaft

I found this quiet zen 🧘 to watch and listen too. Aaaaaaaaaarh

Funny you broke it exactly where the design flaw is. The rear chassis is .5 mm off and the hinge pins have play in them. After enough complaints, AE will need to address the issue. Good thing I'm a Losi guy.

It is a lovely setup board, can I ask where you got it with the custom graphics?

Love the setup board too 😍

Best build video by dar mate 👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻 keep up the good work

There’s no slop because it’s a Mugen. Welcome to the world of quality plastics and tolerances, not like that Laffy Taffy the AE cars are made out of! 😂

I personally think the msb1 has a very bright future in store for it, and I chose it over the b7 for my new 2wd buggy. Time will tell.....

Mint!!! Looking forward to this!! Especially the fan mount 😂 and the motor mount 👍🏻😂

Great video matey, very informative! Keep up the good work bud 👌🏻

Hi. I am currently building my S1 RM too. Which spur gear and pinion do you use i.e. for the final gear ratio ? Thanks.

I have a theory on this. Please note that most people that are breaking these C Blocks are doing so on the left hand side. Look at your D-Block. Notice that it is not square with the rear of the transmission case. Now look at the holes in the lower transmission casing that you mount the D block through, that go up to your aluminum ball stud mount. Notice that that one on the right side of the car, is about .3mm further away from the rear of the gear box (2.3mm on the right versus 2.0mm on the left). This skews the D Block, pulling back the left hand side of the D Block, if you measure the back of the C Block to the back of the D Block, the left hand side is about .5mm+ wider than the right side. This gives the the required slop value that allows for the hinge pin to pull back and sit proud in the C Block pill, so that not only is the only support on the hinge pin the thin machined outer lip of the C Block where the pill recesses into it, but it's also where the relief cut is to help remove the pill with a hex driver. It's a pert storm of weak spots. So one good thump, and it wants to rip the hing pin right out the side. Now you can press down on the high side of the D Block, and even it out, and make it level as you screw it down. But it will want to work it's way back out eventually from vibration. So it's less than ideal. There are companies making reinforced C blocks now. But the real issue isn't the C Block, it's the misaligned hole in the transmission D Block that is a manufacturing error that is setting the stage for the skewed D Block and the poor C Block design to fail with the hinge pin placement.

why can't you just push the pills out from the front with an larger hex key? I don't see the need for the cut out

any update on how the mod worked?

If the pin was a mm longer, this would be less of a problem.

C4 chassis works sells a beefed up version

Hey there, good vid 👍 Any chance you can do a vid walk thru on your pr ? And what set up/ mods ? I’m running a v4 box set up and would love to see what others have done Cheers

I don't have a b7 I'm running my b6.3 and have many crashes under my belt never broke a c,or, d block. Hope you get it sorted and happy racing!!!!

TMG speed are currently making a new c block for the B7 which does away with the slot to get the pill out👍🏻

For sure a weak spot that the pin is to short and makes it easy to rip out

Cool vid, Cheers from this Aussie in China!

Interesting. I wouldn’t be surprised if in a few months that slot to release the pills is designed out 🤨

This is the most common breakage that people are reporting from what I can see. And it makes total sense, since the swing arms are longer that means longer levers to apply force when it strikes something. Making the arms longer without beefing up the parts those arms are attached to was always going to a recipe for things getting broken.

Great to meet you at the weekend. Check the dms feed for some photos of your cars!

Looking fast just sat on the bench! Hope the first run goes well.

At least I'm not getting blamed for the spray gun issue 😂

Ooooh blue shiny bits😁🤣

Your content is awesome mate, keep it up x

Keep it coming buddy 👌🏻

Looking forward to this series!! I know I’m gonna end up with one 😁😁

I'm a sucker for the Tamiya blue anodised stuff 😅 BTW when you can give us a bit more information on hobbywing vs. corsatec comparison 👍

Love all the RC Misfits idents BTW top drawer 👍