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Thank you!

It really hard to know what might be going wrong with the print. So much depends on what you are using for filament, printer and slicer. Here is an article I found that might help with the issue you are experiencing. all3dp.com/2/gaps-in-3d-print-top-layer-gaps-between-lines/#:~:text=Mainly%2C%20these%20are%20the%20result,pockmarks%20on%20the%20surfaces%2C%20too. Good luck! I hope you find a fix.

Thanks for the question! The switch is just a magnetic reed switch. You can order them from Amazon. I hollowed out the plastic on the inside of the case to move the switch as close to the exterior of the case as possible and then through trial and error I placed a small magnet on the underside of the latch on the case. When the latch is closed the magnet opens the switch and interrupts the circuit so the LEDs turn off. When the latch is opened the magnet moves away from the switch and the switch closes allowing the LEDs to turn on. I hope that helps. Cheers!

Thank you!

Mostly I've used it to add extra light to backlight things I'm taking photos or videos of. Because my workspace is in the basement it can get pretty dark depending on the time of day and season.

The two pieces that were joined together were 3D printed - the link to the file is in the description. Otherwise yes the rest was done by hand (sanding, filling priming and painting).

How long did it take to you to make?

@@Moon_light_Rainbow The printing took a couple hours and the finishing took maybe 3-4 hours tops - would have been a bit faster, but I was filming as I went.

Thank you!

Increasing the sphere diameter should make the ball of the ornament larger, but you might also have to adjust wall thickness and the other parameters as a result.

Hi Bob! Thanks for checking out the video. I'm really sorry but I don't know what dimensions you would enter for a 75mm ornament. Its been a while since I last used the site I mentioned in the video. I hope you are able to get it to work for you. The finished product is pretty amazing when it all comes together. Cheers!

I'm not sure if the dimensions of the lights, or parameters in the generator I used have changed from last year to now... When I made this ornament last Christmas everything fit with the dimensions I give in the video.

17mm is the outer edge of the lip at the opening of the cylinder, not the inner diameter. Hope that helps.

I hope yours turn out beautiful and that everyone enjoys them!

Thanks for watching the vid and also for the feedback!

I'm glad you like the graphics on the case and how the vials light up. Thanks for checking out the vid!

I used small balloon LED's usually used for weddings. Here is the link from amazon: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0734HGMWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@M6Props According to Amazon only 50h of service life. Is it really that short?

@@markt6240 I found the lights dim a bit over time but I didn't have any die on my tree. Admittedly the bulbs were only on for short periods at a time (no more than 3hrs at a go) and I don't think I went over 50 hrs combined time with them lit.

Thanks, glad you liked it!

@@M6Props anytime 😊

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you - your comment just made my day. Also thank you for checking out my video. Cheers!

Thank you for checking out the video! Cheers!

Thanks! I really appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and to share your feedback. Cheers!

Thanks dude - glad you liked the creation! Much appreciated.

I agree the original panels add a lot of character and if the two broken panels were just cracked I would have left them, but because they were missing sections of glass I opted to replace them. The exposed edges were a safety concern and also could damage photos. The two remaining panels are going to stay for sure. Thanks for checking out the video!

Sure - no problem. I purchased these lights from Amazon.ca: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0734HGMWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm a fan of the see-through after-market cases as well. If I have to swap out a case I tend to go for them. I try to use the original stickers rather than the ones that come with the new case. I hope your shell swap goes well on the SP!

Hi Hesynergy, I've never used the Basic Options Quality in Cura - I usually run my prints on Dynamic or Super Quality depending on what the model is. For this project I created a custom profile based on the settings I share in the video description. I started with the Super Quality profile and then adjusted the setting outlined in the video. Shell thickness is the same as wall thickness and for this project 0.2mm is way too thin. I would also check your infill - it needs to be set to 100% - you want a solid print - anything less than 100% infill will distort your pictures and the internal supports will show through. Also make sure to slow your print speed down. I set my printer to 20mm/s, but you can even go as slow as 15mm/s. If you are new to 3D printing I would suggest you check out the following link: all3dp.com/1/cura-tutorial-software-slicer-cura-3d/ All3DP has some excellent articles for setting up your printer, dialling in your slicer settings and the different characteristics of all the types of filament out there. I hope your next print is successful!

@@M6Props thanks so much! #3 was a charm, but 1/2 the size I expected…more research needed on my part. Is there a link for YOUR build for the attachment mechanism to the Christmas light string?. Thanks again and merry Christmas! Chas

@@hesynergy No build. I just purchased the multi-purpose wedding bulbs (link in description) from Amazon and used those - each LED is battery operated and they friction fit in the hole nicely.

@@M6Props no need to purchase special LEDs. My daughters std NON-LED light string bulbs Worked with a little coaching from my “Swiss Army Executive” knife… The best knife I’ve ever had in my life. Happy holidays y’all! Chas

Hi Wade, The online lithophane sphere generator that I used in the video will not save your settings unless you sign up for an account. If you move off the page to another for any reason it resets to the default settings. Whatever the settings are when you select create .stl will transfer over to Cura when you import the .stl file. I found that it was easiest to have all my settings written down - input them and create the .stl file all in one go. I am also working on a Mac - not sure how well the program runs on other platforms.

I drew a lot of knowledge and inspiration from these sites: seapearch.org and homebuiltrovs.com. You can find lots of plans on these sites. Hope that helps!

You are welcome!

I'm always open to ideas. What did you have in mind?

Project was kind of put on hold, but this spring/summer I plan to get back to it and finish it off. Cheers!

Hi Gary, I am happy to share with you. I am currently updating the code so that I can run a camera steaming video from the platform. I can share the original code (without that modification) if you like or I can send it to you when I finish the add-on. Alternatively you could check out ExplainingComputers videos on this style of robot. He has posted his code to the description and I modified that code for my needs. His channel can be found at: th-cam.com/channels/biGcwDWZjz05njNPrJU7jA.html. Cheers!

Thanks! I hope to have another video up soon. Your DIY Underwater ROV has been a big inspiration to this build.

When can we have further videos on underwater rov

Yeah, it’s been a while!

@@agermangineer Actually i am even waiting for ur rov complete build videos with making of those propellers and all fittings and all pls just one complete video with components dimensions pla

@@anujnair3379 is that so....!? Hmmm... ok... about the Propellers.... I’ll look into it. Thank you! 😀