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Hi there great video! Have you tried a variable rear wall to create a multi hz unit?

I have a dip at 105 and a peak at about 40 and 120. In this case should i aim for the peaks or the dip of canceled frequency?

Even after 2 years this video is an absolute gem. Thank you!

I hope you answer my question: 1- these kind of absorbers can absorb bass waves coming from subwoofers inside a club ?? Or only to reduce room mode shock? 2- do we have to choose a specific location for these traps inside a space or its enough to place on corners? 3- how many absorber we need to absorb one frequency?? 4- can these absorbers stop bass to go thru structure to other floors instead of making room in room system?

No fue desconcertante saber cuál clip le correspondía a cada uno (aún escuchando desde el altavoz del teléfono), pero estas son mis impresiones: BAE: rango más extendido, denso, con bajos presentes sin exagerar. GAP: bonito color, no tiene la extensión de brillo del GAP, se siente como si cortara algo de frecuencias altas, bajo no tan sólido y suave (si es que se pueden relacionar ambos calificativos) como el BAE. Sonido muy agradable. Lindell: áspero, nasal. En general no me gusta dentro del contexto de esta competición, si solo lo escuchara de forma independiente posiblemente solo pensaría en esos atributos más no podría señalar como peor a algo. 1 Bae 2 gap 3 lindell Presupuesto: para el GAP.

Top notch video

Limp Mass Membrane bass traps really seem like the way to go!

Yes I did get them right, and green (2) sounds like my preamp exactly slightly excessive highs tends to be a bit harsher than the bae blue (1) which is no surprise to me, the plugin brown (3) breaks and falls apart at higher gains. I came here as I just read somebody saying the GAP has no bottom which is rubbish. I liked your test but it was a bit unfair, because even with the sub fully turned on there was no bottom in the drumbreak for example. Differences are much more obvious then showed here, which is why I am almost certain you messed a bit with all recordings at once to make the differences less audible and the comparison harder than it really is... We´re not guinea pigs we´re musicians, anyways thanks for the comparison and nods to myself for my ears blue and green are on eyesight. So, NOT an obvious and therefore not so much of a FUN comparison. Music should be fun and sound good. Peace

La classique en trap...quelle bonne création

Very nice tutorial! If i may ask what was your listening position in that room. I have nearly identical room and currently i am sitting in the middle of it because it is so small. How did you solve that issue?

The main advantage of very large rooms is that they are very flat over 40hz, especially if they have angled and traditional roofs. A small room has all the problems at 40 to 120hz.

Fantastic video and applaud the effort you put into making it, the theory, the construction, the results. What strikes me though, is this 174dB measurement. How did you measure that loud and what did you measure it with??? Perhaps some extreme offset setting at overlays? It's an honest question, as I've never seen anything like this before. Hope to hear from you soon. Again, congrats on the content.

lol, all the experts have identified the plugin, once they watched the last screen with results...

I have 12 Rigid Fiberglass Board, 2 Inch, 3 lb. Does this insulation work? Because if it works I won't have to buy the other one. Thank you

What a useless trap. And 20 min video could be 3-4 min long only. Having such a big gap at 44, you have no chance to fix it. Your room dimensions are bad.

Thank you so much

BBC R&D were fantastic. Still are good, but much smaller now.

That was really top notch. Thank you.

Real trap shit

Wow such a video .. thank you so much 🙏 that’s a whole school semester . I will repeat this video until I will understand and learn everything in it ❤️🙏🥃🥃

Hi, very interesting video! Quick question: I have a whole wall or which I can add 2cm of whatever I want (behind projector screen). I am thinking of sticking absorbers designed as follows: a piece of perforated metal (6 mm holes), then some kind of viscoelastic material, then another perforated metal (4mm holes), again viscoelastic material, then final metal sheet (2mm holes) and viscoelastic material on the wall. In front of those sheets 1cm of bassotect foam.The idea is that pressure will push these sheets and the viscoelastic material will absorb the movement into heat. Also the holes should cause some of the sound to disperse sideways and thus deep in the viscoelastic material. The foam in front of it will hopefully catch some of the higher frequencies. What do you think? Will it work? I am asking since I noted your comment that unless the box is soundproof it will not work. Many thanks!

Thank you very much for your very helpful and very well explained video. I have a question, does the absorber have to be fixed to the wall later or does it work just as well if it stands a few centimeters in front of the wall? Best regards from Germany

do the tacsound need to have contact with the wall to work? or just near the wall is ok? thx

I was able to identify them correctly. The plugin was obvious. I was surprised that I liked the GAP best.

Sympa , original 👍 Merci .

Bonjour , nouvel abonne ! Bien sur , vous êtes au top !!! Avec les bons matériaux .... 👍 Que donnerait le même cadre rempli de mousse à matelas ??? Privilégier une mousse dure ou plus souple ? Ex : fond en mousse dure et plus souple sur l'avant ? Peut être plus d'epaisseur de mousse pour faire le même job ? Ou ce sera vraiment sans bon resultat ? Doit on y ajouter une membrane comme sur les dessins , ça fonctionnera quand même avec de la mousse derrière ? Des liens pour acheter la membrane ? J'aurais un plan pour de la mousse pas chère .... habitant à Mayotte (vers madagascar) , les commandes internet + le transport et les douanes et l'octroi de mer finissent par rajouter pas mal !!! J'aimerai trouver une solution locale !!! Merci pour vos réponses et désolé si mes questions sont stupides , je n'ai pas un fort bagage dans ce domaine !!! 🤔😂

This is that one video what i need.Thanks !!

c’est un très beau travail Bravo

I have put the music un m’y playlist

It figures A would be the expensive one..lol It really shined on the female vocal and the acoustic guitar. It was the only one that handled (kept pleasing) the resonance in her voice as she built up the volume. The acoustic guitar had much better clarity and note separation with the BAE. With busier audio content it was harder to tell them apart.

This video is GOLD. Thank you for sharing all your experience!

Well the bae seems to have a cleaner big low end, than the gap, but price wise gap is cheaper ! 0:29 0:34

how to build a limp mass membrane tubetrap?

Is there a link to the bbc paper?

Shoutout to Rod Gervais and his book Build it like the pro's which I bought somewhere around 2009. I have a very dear memory of mine where I built a "panel trap" with the same mathematics involved like Tim's document, only with a rigid wood panel instead as membrane. As I built it I listened to music, when I fastened the last like 4-5 screws I could hear the shift in air pressure within the room, tightening up the measured problematic frequency I aimed at targeting with each screw I screwed in. The panel were spot on. Thanks for a great video!

Hi Ram, Just a question to see if I'm correct or missing something. I have looked at your interessting video to learn about Membrame Traps. I have found a EPDM sheet of 8mm thick that has a mass of 12.8 kg/M2. I used the calculators and found that I needed a cabinet (about 1500x600mm) with this membrame an airgap (20mm) and 70mm of glass wool (f.r. = 5000) to get to the +/-49Hz centerfreq of 'filtering'. Will this work (when properly airtide build) or am I makening a misstake here ??? I'm thinking about 4 panels for my about 3x3x2,5m room just for adressing the 49Hz issue. Thanks

Ram, great video. I've been struggling with this. How do I calculate for my room which has vaulted ceilings? It has 8 ft. sides then angles up to 12ft. It's 16 ft. deep by 18 ft. wide. I also wondered if these would work as a cloud suspended up in the apex? Thanks.

Thanks for sharing. I have problems with my neighbours because of the low bass frequencies. I’m gonna try this!

Thanks for the great video! A question though, can the membrane be stapled directly on the outer edges of the sealed box? And let's say for example my box is 1m by 1m, should the membrane be exactly this size? Or slightly bigger to avoid tension?

I built 12 modules of 3 sizes each - 36 in total - from the original designs on the gear space post by Tim Farrant that are referenced in this great video. I used the updated calculations suggested in the video, and the links to room mode and absorber depth calculators to arrive at the design. I then installed them in the room corners, roughly according to Tims layout plan. I’m happy to tell you - they worked perfectly. I had a massive low end problem in my newly built control room, 50 hz particularly, and the modules totally solved it. Now very smooth all the way up to 120hz. Things to note - the modules I built are much smaller than the one in the video, as per Tims original design. I did this for ease of installing them on the walls and ceiling and because Tim is a well respected audio designer (Buzz Audio) in my country (New Zealand) which gave me a bit more confidence that he knew what he was talking about. They cost about $1000 NZD ($650 USD) and took about a weeks labor I would guess. I used the tec sound for the membrane, like in the video. I used 18mm MDF for the boxes. I used builders strap attached to the internal cavity by small metal angle brackets to hold the insulation in place,at the distance specified in the design calculator. I used a brad nail gun and glue to construct the boxes. There was a lot of stapling involved to attach the membrane thoroughly, which wasn’t much fun. I used Pink Bats Ultra R2.6 Wall for the insulation (This won’t be useful to anyone outside New Zealand) which has a gas flow resistivity of 10,300 rayls. I found the whole gas flow resistivity thing confusing. The gear space thread on trying to find the data on common insulation materials is what I scoured through. Google ‘Common Gas Flow Resistivity numbers gear space’ and you should find it. And for anyone is Asia/Pacific, what got me the information I needed in the end was a google drive link at the bottom of page 7 in that thread, by Paul the Sparky From memory, what may have made it confusing was it took me ages to realise ‘rayls’ where the same measurement as kPa.s/m². So 10,300 rayls is 10.3 kPa.s/m². I may be remembering this incorrectly, so don’t quote me on this. Other things to note if you are planning on building these - follow the instructions exactly and they will work. The sound sealant caulk is crucial, they need to be airtight. Apply the caulk with a caulk gun, then work it in with your finger to make sure the seal is good. The boxes should be made out of dense material - MDF or ply. I have not seen any suggestion of using less than 18mm. I only note this because I was initially deterred by a comment on here saying they didn’t work, but the person had used chip board (not dense enough) and only built 2 of the smaller modules (not enough to make any difference). Thank you very much for this video and good luck to anyone who has found their way here - I researched some other options that were either insanely expensive (Acoustic Fields DIY charcoal design) or didn’t have enough before and after measurements to make me confident of efficacy (super chunk etc). Yours, Lord Echo.

Could you please clarify the section between 15:22 and 15:52? From my understanding it is: sit the frame on the floor (so the 120cm height of the unit is lying on the ground) and apply glue to frame, sit the Tecsound on it (how long should you leave it on without stapling?) and after it is settled, sitting on the ground the same way as before, apply a ton of staples, then stand up vertically? Thanks!

Hi ram this will work also if put foam as absorber amd not the glass wool?

Very cool...Ive been looking at the GAP 573....and its cheaper than the BAE!

I love that kick drum....24"?

Tho all 3 have a similar sonic character, I immediately found C was less pleasing and had less dynamics and depth. Turns out I actually preferred the GAP on most tracks. Wouldn't have guessed that! So thanks for that test. Very interesting indeed. I think it's worth noting that the plugin fares rather well all things considered. When you factor in the price, I'd say it brings you in the ballpark.

The Gap surprised me. it sounded so big

Hi, what kind of knauf wool did you use exactly?

C was easily identifiable as the plugin. I did think B was the BAE however, as it was my favourite!

Very important; thanks

Too easy..