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@@sethmonteleone8178 In the edit I was like "Hmm... I didn't fully think though that shot. Fuck it, she stays"

@@sethmonteleone8178 Hey man, it's hot down here. Gotta keep the little piggies cool

@@Doomburger7 I have not heard of this, what's the benefit of running the system in reverse? Any sources or solid information as to?

@@wingman703 So, Reverse Flow Cooling is something that Smokey Yunick worked on and that Pontiac used in 1955-1960. GM also used it in the 2nd gen LT1/4 and I've seen it used in some pretty unsuspecting engines more recently (Mercedes, I believe). The mechanism seems to be that the cylinder head conducts most of the combustion chamber and exhaust heat and exchanges that heat with the incoming intake charge. In addition, the exhaust valves and cylinder head are two primary sources of hotspots in the combustion chamber, so giving the head priority cooling alleviates these effects and raises the knock threshold of the engine, enabling higher compression or boost and/or timing advance. I still don't know the effect that reversing the coolant flow has on the cylinder walls, but that seems to be less significant for performance and the few folks I've seen online who've ventured use it have reported that it works.

@@wingman703 YT seems to be deleting my comments with the links in for some reason, so I'll throw them in separately, but lmk if they don't come through.

@@wingman703 www.researchgate.net/publication/266604652_Effect_of_cooling_water_flow_direction_on_performance_of_an_acetylene_fuelled_HCCI_engine www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/841294/ www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/reverse-flow-electric-water-pump-cooling-system-35609/

@@Doomburger7 Links didn't work, but you've given me enough terms to research and look into. Thanks!

@@Omeshan Me from the future here. This cooling setup kicked ass. I struggled to get it to operating temps even in 90° ambient temps untill I halved my already small radiator inlet. The EWP's insane flow definitely helped, but the extra large triple pass radiator itself does serious work.

@@wingman703 Is it you from the future, or the vid is you front the past? Hmm NVM future you is cooler! So you couldnt get up to operating temps even with PWM at lowest so had to put more backpressure on pump to reduce flow? Would you have done anything differently? Like smaller Rad or smaller pump, or do you need the capacity when at full tilt? Space is a premium, so just asking. Also, do the NA headlights take up space and get in the way? They cool as hell... but space!

@@Omeshan Haha video me is past me for sure. Basically to get it to operating temp I leave the pump completely off until ~140°F, then run it at minimum duty until 190°, and start ramping up in flow rate from there. Trying to run it at minimum duty from 80° or lower ment warmup took 30-45min at idle. When moving and with some load in it, warm up is much quicker. Getting it warm in the winter(40°F and below temps) is definitely going to be a struggle, but that's future me problems! Definitely wouldn't reduce radiator size. Having the extra cooling capacity is going to allow me to upsize my intercooler, which you might notice is very much on the small side. I'd much, much rather have too much cooling capacity and need to downsize/block off inlets then not have enough and have overheating issues again. Popup headlights could probably be made to fit, but that's just weight and aero drag!

@@wingman703 I wish i could show you how much i appreciate your detail in replies. One day if we find ourselves in the same place in the world, drinks are on me. Your R&D is definitely worth it! My build is aimed at somewhat time attack but also street legal. If i land up building it in Australia, its harder - I need to then use an NA because its old enough to do a subframe swap (Aus rules are a headache), but i would like to use the NB... but i may try something weird with front end swaps... Problem for later me to look at space and rules and stuff.

@@Omeshan Just happy to bring everyone along for the highs(and lows) of building a fast Miata.

🙃 (I touched up the bled edges later)

@@wingman703 Thank god lmao

@@Omeshan I don't have an exact weight difference at this point, the car will be weighed for a final before and after when it's completed. The cage builder said he used 78ft of tube, so it comes out to approximately 130lbs of material once you account for the landing pads and braces. Of course, there was also a lot of stock metal removed, so weight will remain roughly in the same ballpark. Fitting 3" tube down there would be tricky, but I'm not going to say impossible with clever use of a hammer and oval pipeage.

@@wingman703 Thanks! I was also hoping that weight would be around neutral. Unfortunately I am planning my build to be street legal too, here in Aus (where ill eventually build the car), that will mean a ton more restrictions.... But that is part of the fun. Cant wait for the next update.

@@AndyFuntown it just feels like SOOO much additional torque on those fairly small bolts.

@@TheLastBimzy I built my own version of that baffle years before Kpower release theirs(the idea has been around over a decade). It helped, but didn't fully solve the oil pressure issue.

@@Omeshan It's just providing a mounting point for the K20 oil pump that's retrofitted as part of the swap. Otherwise that leg of the pump is just hanging in the air unsupported.

@@wingman703 thanks! added to my list of things i need. I will still go over your whole build thread but my build is probably still 2 years away. At least that a lot of time to plan!

@@Omeshan Its all part of Kpower's oiling system kit.

@@wingman703 Thnaks! Ive also heard some things about using a s2000 oil pump as it holds higher revs better. Ill have to figure out my whole system there. I plan on using a K20 not a 24, so there will be slight differences

@@butterbiskit999 Definitely a change in the music style for this one, but wanted something more mechanical and old school sounding.

Never tracked diff temps. What I don't know can't hurt me. I've never had diff fluid come out looking or smelling burned, and it gets changed once a season anyway.

It's damm near quarter inch steel. If it bends I'd be stunned. I could build something else if it gives me issues, but I'm fairly confident in it.

🥲

DONT FORGET TO SMASH THAT BELL ICON

Yeah $500 for that mount is crazy. I could completely understand $200-$250, but twice that? Insane. Even if you assumed they spend $100 per mount($50 material+1hr from a skilled welder), $200 would be well into the green.

They wanted to charge me $400 for the mounting brackets for wilwood calipers, so not surprised they wanted $500 for the diff mount

"shit I need to draw a straight line" *Looks around* "Wrench"

But but but big hammer :( At the time of filming I didn't have a press. I now have a small press, but haven't gotten around to getting the brake stuff.

Every bolt on this car gets locktite, or where able(like the exhaust) safety wire. Vibrations will definitely be/has always been a source of issues and this car has an extensive nut and bolt list that's performed regularly.

@@wingman703 Thanks for the reply. Something I will think about myself. I need to learn how to properly implement safety wire. My current build has tiny insignificant bolts come loose, because I skipped loctite on them. Luckily did all the important ones... but since learnt to do all

K is the way and the CD009 should hold everything these motors can make and more.

@@wingman703 instant reply! Love it. Same person here - I made this account to eventually document my build. Hopped here to sub and comment on this too to make the algorithm fly. Also, thank you for showing me that the trans fit. I too had no idea what would be required, and was prepared to get the grinder out...This just makes me happy.

@@StreetAttackAutomotive I ended up just kissing the top of the transmission shifter plate with a grinder to gain myself an extra 1/8th inch of clearance. Depending on what shifter you get you might also need to enlarge the shifter hole in the trans tunnel as well, but it's not a lot. Honestly that transmission fits the Miata tunnel better then it has any right to.

@@wingman703 thank you! Will have to have a look. And also how to sneak exhaust passed it since I want a specific exhaust setup... But, that's head scratchy time for when I get there. Im itching to start man!

Nothing fancy, just the OE fenders cut and held inwards with self tappers. There are various venders like leftlane designs that build bolt on vents for that area if you want something cleaner looking.

Wut??

@@wingman703 not a slipknot fan?

@@sethmonteleone8178 Not really, and no idea what your referencing lol

@@wingman703 I don't either, I'm just making comments so the youtube likes your video. Nice video, it made me laugh with the hammer on...haha. Talon said hi

@@sethmonteleone8178 Oh I was hella confused lmao.

Majority of this video was probably filmed January/February this year.

@@wingman703 when did Cody do the cage? Also I was scared of those hydraulic throw out bearings so went with the clutch fork.

@@sethmonteleone8178 Early March I think. I'm equally nervous of the internal hydraulics but that was the only option offered with the kits.

@@wingman703 that clutch is nice though

That's terrific information for future use.