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I carry a 21SF all the time, and it is also my home defense gun. An amazing, reliable tool that will get the job done!

Petrified wood, oh my god !!! climate change, climate change!!!!

Guns made in China are absolute junk.

Great video, very interesting, thanks. How does the model 97 compare to the model 12, which is the Winchester shotgun that I have heard more about? Thanks.

CHICKENS! Chickens, Chickens! good for the soil, keeps the dogs on their toes, and you get eggs. just used clear egg cartons as mini green houses to start an early sprout.

That is something I’d have to see first hand with good lighting and strong magnification, I don’t think one would need an expert from university or institute, however if necessary or to validate and qualify, it might be necessary, especially if that’s an anomaly/one of a kind, new discovery, you’d want that documented to be sure, loan it to museums and or universities.

When it comes to planting the beans I'd rather have to thin them out than to possibly not have enough in the rows. But then again I always bought my seeds by the pound and losing some really didn't matter. I loved gardening and miss it a lot.

I am glad you are back to 'Happy Trails'!

th-cam.com/video/aAab4l75FEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oBYgYvotWZ3PNJlv

Next time White Oak with one of their match barrels or Compass Lake is your friend. Talk to Bob at Accuracy Speaks at the Usery Pass range in Mesa he will get you straight on the feeding issue.

Brian is having fun, it’s just great. I have seen the same on my small spread in Tennessee. It’s work. Now I have predators I need to suppress. Looking into to a can so I can less noisily take out coyotes. Wife is worried about her dogs and I have been told there is a bounty per yote. Win/ win. Still need that DM with address So I can send the poppy seed bread. Ralphie. Miss You

Undersized gas port. Buffer weight or and buffer spring issues. Feed ramp burrs or magazine issues. All part of the fun and learning process when building an AR. I just subbed to your channel, oh, and welcome to Arizona.

Welcome to AZ!

I am glad you are still posting videos. Looking forward to it. From the acreage and the snow in the other video, it looks like you are well away from the blobs that ate Arizona (Phoenix and Tuscon). I'd say you made a good move.

Congratulations on escaping from California. After a lifetime in San Diego l escaped to central Utah. Same kind of deal !!!!

so? is it? Apsaras, Asparagie, or? Asparaguses? God Bless, and maybe a goat or guard boar with gaurd Geeses. or Gosses? or "ONLOAD" in AZ?

Did you move to Az. from Orange County ???? Will you have a shop and store there ???

"I say" my finger itches myself, and I just got to scratch it to my wife as I go to the Mojave. as a BP enthusiast I love the first un loading I got to see once you evacuated Is a BP unloader.

You got your family a little slice of heaven. you have lots of work to do! "I cant wait" for your "RE Loads" to go Un loads! GOD! Bless!

Wow looks amazing. Enjoy it my friend, you've earned it

Awesome! I'm really glad for you. 🙂

You would be a great guy to have as a new neighbor! 😊

I heard you folks were gonna have snow this week. Thanks for the video. 😊

Did you move out of comi California

I always enjoyed stopping in to chat. Good luck on your new adventure.

Lee's Carbide Crimp Dies (tapered and roll) are bad for the cases as they can only smooth out a bulge that they create, hence a gimmick of sorts fixing their own faults [just like politicians claim to do - a.k.a. solve issues that they themselves created in the first place]. Whereby over working the brass needlessly, and hardening it faster as a side effect. But their Collect Crimp Dies (tapered and profile) will never ever leave a bulge to start with, hence not needing to fix their own mess. So the cases last longer because the brass is not getting unnecessarily over work. Again if the Carbide Crimp Dies would not create a bulge then the carbide ring would be absolutely unnecessary. Again the Lee Collet Crimp Dies don't have to have a carbide ring to fix anything because they never bulge the cases period. So "Long Live Lee's Collet Crimp Dies", and "to hell with their gimmicky Carbide Crimp Dies"! Be sure and watch Lee's very own videos on their Factory Carbide Style crimp dies: 1) th-cam.com/video/0rjlUH25DyM/w-d-xo.html And their Factory Collet Style crimp dies (of which they have both /roll and a taper types): 2) th-cam.com/video/vo7p4k36swI/w-d-xo.html

Much appreciate all the advice over the years and ill continue to follow Congratulations

Best wishes, Brian! Thanks for all you've done to help so many of us in the reloading hobby. Coming to your shop was the best part of the day! You always have been a pleasure to deal with and a great blessing.

Good luck Brian... thanks again for taking the time to teach/help me with reloads.

Congratulations sir. Looking forward to seeing the shooting side of your work.

Do We still have time for one more Pilgrimage to the shop? VERY HAPPY for you, and a bit jealous at the same time. GOD! Please BLESS! You! and your Family Please? Thanks for teaching any of US who want to pay attention.

Brian,I’d better call you for an address to mail my Tennessee bread. Since I sure you are not moving this far eastward. Ralph in TN Happy Trails

Good for you, Sir. Follow your dreams!

H.V. Stent wrote an article called "A Handlaoding Mystery" which was about different manuals having varying load data for the 30-30. He shows how the load data varies by 7 grains between Speer Handloading Manual #7 (with 40 grains) and #9 (shows 33 grains). And while Speer gave the reply that there are bound to be changes between publications, they gave no explanation as to why. And while Sierra, Hornady, Lyman, and Omark all gave answers basically saying stick with the latest data, but Hodgdon's answer was "Some data sources keep loads purposely on the low side. We do this. Some data sources want to keep 30-30 loads super safe, below 35,000, and some crowd 45,000 or more...". But again Speer in their own manuals varied 7 grains between two of their own publications. [see: Handloader's Digest, eleventh Edition, page 97-99] None the less as powder and primers do change over the years it is always best to use the most current load data available. And even then it still varies from one manufacturer to another, whereby leaving the question still up in the air as to which one should one trust. I have noticed in the latest editions that Hornady publishes a much lower charge weights than the others which actually come close to one another. For example take the 45 Colt, Hornady's charge weights for their 250 grain XTP with Accurate #5 is 7.7 to 10.4 grains, while Lyman has10.0 to 11.0 grains, while both Western Powders and Accurate manuals show 9.9 to 11.0 grains. So Hornady has a minimum of 2.3 grains below the others, and a maximum of .6 grain below the other's maximum. Now if we are not to go below the minimum nor above the maximum charge weights we would be stuck between the two publications at 10.0 and 10.4 grains. As these manuals warn that going below the minimum could cause erratic pressures so should we dare start with Hornady's low ball charge weight? Or should we be scared to dare start at the 9.9 to 10.0 grains stated by the others, which is close to Hornady's maximum charge? Funny how they are all using the exact same bullet and powder with modern pressure testing technology and the data as of this day is all over the place. Yet if Hornady was worried about getting sued they would not drop the starting charge weight so low as to create erratic pressures, nor would the others raise the maximum to such heights above Hornady's maximum. If they are all claiming 14,000 PSI what is up with this? Well different primers and lots thereof, as well as different cases, and lots of powder could explain things to some degree. And then there is the difference in the exact diameter as well as the grooves within the test barrels too. So Hornady used their own cases (which may have a smaller useable case volume than the other cases involved) and Winchester WLP primers, while Accurate used Winchester cases and CCI no. 300 primers, and Western Powders used Remington Cases and Remington 2 1/2 primers, while Lyman chose Winchester cases and Winchester WLP primers. So none of these manuals used the same exact components in their texting which could easily account for the differences in recommended charge weights. Just the pressures between different primers can be 2,000 PSI alone, and the useable case volumes between manufacturers could easily explain the majority of the discrepancy themselves. It is well known that Federal makes the hottest primers so keep those extra 2,000 PSI in mind if you choose to go that route. And, while this question will always seem to linger (even though I just explained why here above) as to why are there such differences between one manufacturer's load data compared to other's, simply remember to always start at the beginning charge weights and work up. But as to which one you will believe is best is up to your discernment alone! Plus when making up their mind which data is best perhaps one would do well to see which manual uses the brass they plain on using and stick with their primer choose to boot. Personally, I went with Western Powders, Accurate, and Lyman's data. I used Starline brass and CCI no. 300 primers. Yet my advise is y'all do you as I don't want to get sued.

H.V. Stent wrote an article called "A Handlaoding Mystery" which was about different manuals having varying load data for the 30-30. He shows how the load data varies by 7 grains between Speer Handloading Manual #7 (with 40 grains) and #9 (shows 33 grains). And while Speer gave the reply that there are bound to be changes between publications, they gave no explanation as to why. And while Sierra, Hornady, Lyman, and Omark all gave answers basically saying stick with the latest data, but Hodgdon's answer was "Some data sources keep loads purposely on the low side. We do this. Some data sources want to keep 30-30 loads super safe, below 35,000, and some crowd 45,000 or more...". But again Speer in their own manuals varied 7 grains between two of their own publications. [see: Handloader's Digest, eleventh Edition, page 97-99] None the less as powder and primers do change over the years it is always best to use the most current load data available. And even then it still varies from one manufacturer to another, whereby leaving the question still up in the air as to which one should one trust. I have noticed in the latest editions that Hornady publishes a much lower charge weights than the others which actually come close to one another. For example take the 45 Colt, Hornady's charge weights for their 250 grain XTP with Accurate #5 is 7.7 to 10.4 grains, while Lyman has10.0 to 11.0 grains, while both Western Powders and Accurate manuals show 9.9 to 11.0 grains. So Hornady has a minimum of 2.3 grains below the others, and a maximum of .6 grain below the other's maximum. Now if we are not to go below the minimum nor above the maximum charge weights we would be stuck between the two publications at 10.0 and 10.4 grains. As these manuals warn that going below the minimum could cause erratic pressures so should we dare start with Hornady's low ball charge weight? Or should we be scared to dare start at the 9.9 to 10.0 grains stated by the others, which is close to Hornady's maximum charge? Funny how they are all using the exact same bullet and powder with modern pressure testing technology and the data as of this day is all over the place. Yet if Hornady was worried about getting sued they would not drop the starting charge weight so low as to create erratic pressures, nor would the others raise the maximum to such heights above Hornady's maximum. If they are all claiming 14,000 PSI what is up with this? Well different primers and lots thereof, as well as different cases, and lots of powder could explain things to some degree. And then there is the difference in the exact diameter as well as the grooves within the test barrels too. So Hornady used their own cases (which may have a smaller useable case volume than the other cases involved) and Winchester WLP primers, while Accurate used Winchester cases and CCI no. 300 primers, and Western Powders used Remington Cases and Remington 2 1/2 primers, while Lyman chose Winchester cases and Winchester WLP primers. So none of these manuals used the same exact components in their texting which could easily account for the differences in recommended charge weights. Just the pressures between different primers can be 2,000 PSI alone, and the useable case volumes between manufacturers could easily explain the majority of the discrepancy themselves. It is well known that Federal makes the hottest primers so keep those extra 2,000 PSI in mind if you choose to go that route. And, while this question will always seem to linger (even though I just explained why here above) as to why are there such differences between one manufacturer's load data compared to other's, simply remember to always start at the beginning charge weights and work up. But as to which one you will believe is best is up to your discernment alone! Plus when making up their mind which data is best perhaps one would do well to see which manual uses the brass they plain on using and stick with their primer choose to boot. Personally, I went with Western Powders, Accurate, and Lyman's data. I used Starline brass and CCI no. 300 primers. Yet my advise is y'all do you as I don't want to get sued.

To be able to apply a consistent crimp from one case to the next they'll need to be all the same exact length. And to crimp, or not to crimp, is not the question, but rather what type of crimp is! 1) ALL cartridges that are to be loaded in revolvers are to be crimped to negate bullet-pull, otherwise the recoil will cause the bullets to pull out of the cases. Whereby locking the cylinder up. Also crimping the rounds helps the powder to build up pressure that is need to help itself burn properly 2) All cartridges to be loaded in a semi-autos are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, other wise the bullets will get jammed back into the cases due to either the recoil of the gun jamming the magazine against the bullet, or due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 3) All cartridges that are to be loaded into a gun that has a tube feed are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, during recoil as the weight of the bullets atop the others will drive the bullets before them farther into the cases, and will get jammed back into the cases even more so due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 4) All cartridges that are to be loaded into a bolt action with a magazine are to be crimped to negate bullet set-back, other wise the bullets will get jammed back into the cases due to either the recoil of the gun jamming the magazine against the bullet, or due to the bullet slamming into the feed ramp, and again once it is stopped abruptly in the chamber. . Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 5) All rounds (regardless of the type of gun they will be used in) that will be getting jostled around in transport should be crimped, other wise they could succumb to bullet set-back. Whereby making the rounds not only shorter which could case feeding issues, but also will make them hotter than they should be and could blow a gun up. 6) Also crimping the rounds helps the powder to build up pressure that is needed for the powder to burn properly. Otherwise if the bullet is spit out of the case, whereby jammed into the rifling, before the pressure can build up adequately enough can cause hang fires as well as blow a gun apart. 7) Last and least of all, the only cartridges that do not absolutely need to be crimped are those that will be hand feed into the chamber one at a time, against paper targets. And if one has a gun that has to be feed by hand, one at a time, that is to be used in any real life situation, such as self-defense, hunting, or perhaps just plain old plinking, should be crimping their rounds to negate bullet set-back due to the bullets getting jostled around in their pockets, etc... And Now I repeat myself, at the risk of being rude, that only people that hand feed their rounds into the chamber one at a time, for the purpose of playing around with paper targets, can afford to bypass the crimping process! And only listen to their advise if you too are plaining on hand feeding your cartridges one at a time into the chamber against paper target. And as for the rest of us, despite the kind of guns that we may have, should always crimp the rounds, period! Lest the inevitable should happen [a.k.a. - Murphy's Law]! Lee's Factory Crimp Dies are the best on the market, and crimping with them has to be done separately from the seating process. To be able to apply a consistent crimp from one case to the next they'll need to be all the same exact length. Hence a case trimmer is a good tool to have. Personally, I look at each case for primer issues first. Then I de-cap the ones that passed and trash the ones that did not. Now I like to sonic clean first, to soften up the crude, and then wet tumble to really get the cases clean. It may not matter on target, but I will clean mine every time anyway. It just makes me feel (mentally) better about the job/process of reloading. Just like wiping my butt after sitting the throne makes me feel (both mentally as well as physically) a whole lot better than if I didn't. If the cleaning solutions are too acidic or alkaline they will literally leached the zinc from the brass leaving only the copper at the surface behind. If so this will weaken the brass. You can get PH test strips to be sure the cleaning solution is balance between 4 and 5 on the acidic side of the PH scale, or between 6 and 7 on the alkaline side of the PH scale for best results. And even then the brass should not be left for hours on end soaking within the solution as time is not on the side of brass when it comes to slowly leaching the zinc from it in such solutions. The following video explains it best: th-cam.com/video/PPqK7yN0-4o/w-d-xo.html Then dry, lube, resize, and flare. Now I run the cases through a vibratory cleaner with crushed walnut shells to remove all lubricant from them so that the powder and primers are not compromised, and as it is not a good thing to have lubricant on the outside of the cases (or inside the chamber) when firing them in the chamber, which would cause excessive slamming of the cases into the breech, of which they (the breech) are not designed to handle. At this point is where I inspect all cases for crack and other issues, again trashing the rejects. Then I prime, add powder, seat bullet, and last but not least crimp. All on a single stage press.

I am up over 70 reloading manuals now.

Speer Handloading Manual Number 15, page 41: Static electricity and the Reloader 1. Static electricity can be highly hazardous for the reloader. 2. primers are most sensitive to static charges. The energy is enough to ignite primer dust in and around priming tools. The dust can ignite and propagate to all the primers in the tube [or tray]. The result is a serious explosion. This is the reason to keep those tubes [and trays] clean! 3. Static charges prefer low humidity environments. take some simple precautions. a. Use a humidifier. b. remove carpets from reloading areas. This is the prime source of static energy accidents. c. Clean the reloading area on a schedule. Routine cleaning removes residues of primers and propellants that can react to static energy. d. Use an anti-static product[s]. Handbook of Metallic Cartridge Reloading, Edward Matunas, page 14: Most plastic funnels tend to build up a static charge that cause powder to cling to them. Reloader's Guide - Complete, Fully Illustrated Step-By-Step Guide to Handloading Ammunition, page 129, under Common Reloading Problems: Plastic powder funnels often pick up a fair amount of static electricity ... ... ... this is annoying because powder granules stick to the side of the funnel, and you have to keep tapping the funnel to remove the last granule of powder. [Yes, one big hassle. And tapping on the funnel for the next 50 years could give one Reloader's Wrist! I kid you not.] The ABCs of Reloading 10th Edition, page 161: Environmental Conditions conditions that can compromise your safety or loaded ammunition's integrity. static electricity which is never a good thing around powder. Lyman 51st Handloading Handbook, pages 30 and 40: Lyman lab technicians have observed a potential serious phenomenon involving mechanical powder scales, plastic loading blocks, Styrofoam packaging, and other objects made of plastic. These materials sometimes retain static electric charge, enough to create an electro-static field of varying radii. This electro-static field has proven capable of causing radical deflection of uncharged and zeroed scales. Dependent upon circumstances, powder in the scale pan tends to dampen the amount of deflection by varying degrees. We strongly urge that the loading bench be cleared before setting up the scale. Then replace equipment one piece at a time while observing the scale pointer. Any item that causes a scale deflection should be removed from the reloading bench. Metallic Cartridge reloading, Robert S. L. Anderson, page 11: One deadly enemy of the handloader is static electricity, which lurks constantly around anything plastic. An aluminum powder funnel avoids the problem of static electricity generated by the sliding of powder granules across its inner face. However, only Pacific makes aluminum powder funnels. The other makers use plastic, and these can cause erratic powder charges, some of which are excessive. Modern Reloading Second Edition Richard Lee Revised 2021, page 85: What are the causes of excessive pressure? "It seems that some shooters were experiencing hot loads from what should have been quite safe. With much detective work, they found the problem occurred only when loading from the bench and immediately firing the round. Ammunition loaded away from the range worked fine. They discovered that the normal jostling of travel reduced the pressure to correct levels. Accurate recommends that ammunition loaded at the shooting bench be rolled back and forth a couple of times to rearrange the powder granules." [Rolling the cartridges around releases the static charge in the powder due to the use of plastic powder thrower reservoirs, plastic dippers, plastic powder pans, plastic tricklers, plastic funnels, and even plastic loading blocks, as well as any and all plastic primer trays. One should also avoid plastic laminated counter tops too.] Static electricity and plastic reloading tools? Why do manufactures use plastic powder hoppers on a powder measurers when it causes static electricity to bridge the powder in the drop down spout, whereby causing light squib loads in some cases and then the next ones get a charger and a half that blows up the guns? This is a well known phenonium (mentioned by George C. Nonte and Robert A. Rinker in their books) and yet ALL the manufacturers of these powder measurers still go with plastic powder hoppers. Go figure. "Basic Handloading" by George C. Nonte Jr. page 43: "Use of an adjustable powder measure will greatly speed up the operation." page 45: "If you discover an error after forty or fifty rounds have been completed, there may be no way to identify the cartridges that contain the error." "Usually, a charge that bulks abnormally high or low will do so at the expense of the charge thrown immediately before or after it. A light charge in the case might mean that some powder remained in the drop tube, and so was probably added to the next charge thrown; an overcharge probably indicates that powder hung up in the drop tube from the pervious charge, making it less than it should be." "If it seems that I'm dwelling overmuch on powder charging, remember that this is the most critical of all the handloading operations to safety. You'll get no joy or profit from handloading if a mistake or an oversight causes a gun to be wrecked or a shooter to be hurt. Handloading is essentially a very safe practice, provided one adheres to the basic safety requirements and concentrates on the job at hand." Robert A. Rinker also tells the same thing as above in his book titled "Understanding Firearm Ballistics 6th Edition. There is a business that sells replacement powder hopper that are made of Pyrex instead of plastic which should by all means stop any static electricity from building up on the powder in the hopper so that powder bridging in the drop down portion should be a thing of the past. Personally I am getting one, as static electricity is a Handloader's nightmare. DRAM WORX - Pyrex Replacement Hoppers. And be sure and replace the plastic down spout with a metal one too. Safety should always be the #1 priority when reloading, not rushing through the process to save time!

The one thing that I have learned about Reloading is stay away from "Mark7" Products, in particular the Apex 10. The aggravation and waste of components is unreal and definitely takes the fun out of Reloading!!!

I have had a case come apart in the sizing die. After a very close look, the case had a crack. My guess is it was not caught in the manufacturing process and managed to survive one firing.

Another very informative video. You really have to pay attention or you’ll miss something. Keep it up!

You showed an old dog a new trick with the non kinetic bullet powder. Thank you, very much I subscribed.

Ive heavy roll crimped all my 44 mag for 10 years. I get very consistent velocity.

Sooo- sale on used 44 mag brass?😊

Interesting that you noted the attention span issue. I have found my limit is about one hour. After that I start thinking about other things not the task at hand. That’s the nice part about the Dillon progressive. In an hour I can make a lot of consistent high quality ammo.

I understand you are using the single stage press as a teaching device. I used one for a few years and was able to upgrade to a Dillon progressive which was a life changer. Now that I have more time for shooting, I go through a lot more ammo and a single stage press would have taken the fun out of reloading/shooting

Do you trim your straight Wall cases

After 40-plus years in this game, I have never seen a case come apart in any die, let alone an expander die. SMH. Scratching my head.😅

I have got at least 70+ reloading manuals to date, and still have at least 10 to go that I know of. And I have been gleaning a lot of knowledge from the front halves of these manuals. But I only use the newest editions from 19 bullet and/or powder companies to gather load data from.

Got it! Set pin over crash site, no more crash at site. Yes, I get pins in multiples, my bent pins are mostly Mojave Desert or spent 22 in my brass, and me failing to do a good job cleaning, or looking first. Never knew of Carbide and lube relation as a metal worker. I will still be giving lite lube, as life tells me dry brass or copper is not happy or relaxed. Thanks! I will do a straight wall Soon.