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I’ve pulled the wires out of place, they are neatly tucked in from the factory. I needed to gain some slack so I could pop out the on/off switch. I’ll buy a new switch and see how that goes. My on/off switch doesn't work at all. When I short the leads together it does turn on, proving the switch has failed.

thanks pal

Great video, thank you.

Looks like a pain. Thanks for the vid

For the young guys ,,,if the valve spacing is tight on first inspection it means there is wear at the valve and seat most likely,, loose is above the valve so cam and rocker stuff. At the same time I spec your chain tensioner Peace on diirt

Is it the left or right bank 1sensor2

Thanks for taking the time to upload!

Wish it would do 1/4 steps

No bs no intro no long yapping straight to the damn point like we need 10/10

Helpful video, thank you. However I don’t agree with you at 5:13 that you don’t need to remove that beige cover. You have to, as well as some screws on the black plastic piece underneath it, in order to get to one of the 4 screws for the window control unit.

Hi Guys, which brand of O2 sensor is the most suitable for rav4 2007?

Good day, what about B1 S1 location?

I am little confused here, does the pedal lower the sounds or does the display the standard tuning, when you tuning lower? If I have floyd ross guitar that tuned to Standard E, would setting this pedal down a half step adjusting the sound to play as if the guitar was tuned to E flat/D sharp? Or would I have to change to tuning on the guitar itself for that half step down?

No disconnect positive terminal . What about the other 3 02's on that car

where did u buy the part ? mine just broke today . also how were u able to open the cap with the actuator being broken. i had to pry my metal cap off .... wasnt fun

0.13mm? In the manual it says 0.12mm for the 525sx and the 450sx/exc

Is these problem cause misfire?

Now that I have a picture of what it looks like in there. I might be able to do it without punching the holes.

Life saver 👍

Not impressed by these instructions. Missing steps were not shown. 👎

How do you tune sharp?

Would this work for the 2013 TL?

Excelente

Just wondering, if my drivers side window up/down switch is not working, do you have to replace the whole switch or is there a way to swap a switch that operates a window that I never use (like the back window) and use it to operate the drivers side? I have a 2007 Acura TL similar to this one but slightly different. Looks like the switch unit here is one whole unit and not 4 separate plug in switches.

instead muscle it out, rock it back and forth with wench, adding penetration oil

2 of my switch bottom came off and the only bottom that works is the passenger window bottom

I have the same exact car. Same year and engine size. Can someone tell me which codes corresponds with what sensor in the car? I’m positive I need to change one of them but not sure exactly what I’ll be looking at when I take it to autozone for their diagnostic computer. Thanks in advance, if anyone responds.

Thanks for posting this. I’ve never worked on my car myself but I have a 2012 TL and was gonna order the part and see if I can get someone to do it. I’m scared though

Honestly I’ve never owned a KTM and probably never will.. (actually never say never) but I sit here watching videos of people rebuilding and doing maintenance to these older bikes all day ha.

Thanks for the video Tim. Not one but 2 switch buttons broke off. Took about 30 minutes to do.

Can you put out a video with all the other features it has I think you would be great to do that

Thank you so very much for putting that out on a video I have purchase a tu3 a very great puddle I was just having trouble figuring out how to tune a half step down this video was very informative and helpful thank you again

Thank you Tim for the nice video. Very helpful!

Straight to the point. I'm new to ktm and my bike has been down for weeks because I didn't know what valve shim size to get for my rfs engine. JOKES ON ME!

Finally a video that’s straight to the point. Does it tune to flats? yes like this bam. Thanks!!!

What about drop d

I don't know why, but I found the straw flying out was hilarious. Great vid tho

thanks for sharing the video. though technically this is a video on how to check the clearances, and not a video of actually adjusting the valves :D There's no actual video of adjusting the valves. I can imagine how it should be done, but i'm such a noob that this video doesn't actually show me what i was looking for.

I need to know how to replace mine is 2002 Acura MDX

Thanks sometimes I feel like a fucking dumbass trying to tune with this super computer

And you did everything with only one hand, good job👍🏿

i just put a new motor on mine but i notice when i put the window up it rolls back down half way do you happen to know if i need to reprogram ?

how can i tune it to drop c tuning ?

New wiring harness fixed the problem

Thanks for the Video, I just changed Bank 1 Sensor 2 on a 2008 Rav4 Sport V6 . I had a Code of P0137 (voltage low B1 S2). I can confirm the sensor location is by the driver's right foot (and discussed here; www.rav4world.com/threads/location-of-bank1-sensor2-oxy-sensor.139409/#post-1394145) . It is upstream of the CAT ( No sensors are downstream on V6). The Denso part 234-4501 is definitely correct, includes the 4 pin connector and the rubber boot and a little tube of anti-seize goo. ($62 on amazon, July 2020) I bought the $10 Deep Socket with the slot in the side and did NOT need it (yes cuz I bought it!). I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads twice a day for 3 days (heavy rust), just enough to go around the full circumference, one day I sprayed it hot after driving it. Connector was behind the removable plastic 'door'. I snipped the wires flush, at the sensor, used a 7/8" Deep Impact socket, 1/2" drive, and it fit well. Gave it a BIG tug with 18" breaker bar (nothing), relaxed, and then a second 'quick' hard pull and it popped. No heat, no hammer. Unscrewed easily by hand. Threads on the bung were very clean (PB Blaster?). New one screwed in very easy (with anti-seize)... finger tight, then used a large 7/8" open end to tighten ( one thread said 32 Ft-lbs, so I did that much, probably a bit more. Plugged it in, codes cleared fine. Half hour total. I didn't remove the battery cable.

I have the locking pin in, and play in the exhaust but intake has no play, do both need play or just the exhaust?

Perfect. Short and to the point. Thanks!

Last time I did this I didn't bother disconnecting the battery, didn't use a thread chaser, the whole job took about ten minutes tops. I didn't even jack the car up. I have wheel ramps so I used those. I still use jack stands just in case, and wheel chocks. I'm thinking it might make sense to do both as long as you're doing one.

Thanks!

FVCK YOU IN THE FACE TOYOTA! for not recalling the downstream and upstream sensors.