Seriously, EVERYONE with this redlight shaking and racket, look at the exhaust hangers just around the backseat area. If those are worn out, the exhaust is rattling so hard it's shaking everything. The noises like the air filter and heater core, all that stuff, is because the car is shaking from the exhaust. Start your car, put it in park with E-brake obviously, and then get down to ground level by the back door and inspect the exhaust hangers. You'll definitely hear a racket back there if they're worn out and that's the vibration and noise you think is coming from the transmission/heater core/airfilter box. Its a lot easier if you can put the car on stands or ramps. If they're worn out, just take the old ones off so the exhaust doesn't bang on them and all that vibration and noise will go away. Just remember to put new exhaust hangers on so they dont weaken from swinging freely.
P.S. The hangers only cost me about 10 dollars and 20 minutes of getting the car on ramps and pulling out a socket wrench. I PROMISE this is the cure to that redlight shaking problem that no one has found yet. If i'm wrong, make a video showing your car shaking and vibrating and then take off the exhaust hangers and show me that it doesn't go away, i'll eat my hat and yours too! lol
It works for my scion xb 2012. The rubber bushings under the air filter were old and loose cause the vibration and noise. The part number you provided fits perfectly. No more noise after replacing the rubber bushings. Thank you very much!
Either these engines dont like low idle or its in the trans. Replaced my motor and trans mounts and made zero difference but i will say there are no shortage of items on these cars that are loose and can rattle. The good part is that they are super simple and a joy in most cases to work on. I jave a 06 xa with 232,000 miles and runs like a top, didnall the fluids and filters when i bought it with 190k and the only thing I've replaced is the serpentine belt, plugs and valve cover gasket. After just purchasing a chevy traverse and doing the same job and spending 5 hours doing it, I love the scion alot more.
it's your exhaust hangers under the car around the backseat area. Just take them off and see if that doesn't stop the shaking and rattling. They're held on by a couple bolts so it's not a huge effort. If you dont believe me, start your car and then duck down by the back door and listen to the exhaust rattling back there. That noise is being transmitted to your transmission and shaking the motor which in turn is shaking everything else in the bay like the air filter and heater core. Those are not the problem, the root is the exhaust hangers, just check them. If it works for you, spread the word, we can't have these mechanics charging you for all these 'fixes' that aren't the cause. 👍
2005 Scion Xb 189K Miles...I just did this mod exactly as shown here and also added the washers and it tightens that box up nicely and the box shakes less now and the old rubber crumbled and broke on removal so this was needed. I have a tip: once the new rubber grommets are installed on the airbox Super Glue the washers onto the bottom side of the grommets. The addition of the washers is a very good idea but without superglue they are a nightmare to replace! Believe it! Superglue is the answer here. And of course we all know NOTHING solves the vibration at the red light in a Scion! But this does put the airbox back to as close as it was when it left the factory. Good luck!
No need to drill the rivets, if you roll the window down and remove the 2 rubber plugs, they line up with the window bolts and the window comes right out, the hardest part is getting the cable in the outside door latch.
At the point where I need to reattach the cable to the door handle. How is that done? The video totally glosses over this aspect which others have mentioned was difficult to figure out.
Sound is the Fan/Blower Motor. Cost up to $75.00. You can pull it down/out through the glove compartment. Vibration sounds like it needs a Tune-up. All 4 spark plugs will run you about $11.00. If the problem persists, test/replace the coils. All 4 run up to $265.00. My car sounded EXACTLY like yours. After vibrating so badly I had to pull off the road and the engine light came on, I was able to pull into Toyota and they worked on the car and handed me a $287 bill. Said had to replace the coil on #2. No idea what that meant, I left feeling good. 10 days later, engine shaking.. not as bad and no light... I pulled into Pep Boys and they said the dealership should have done a Tune-up, not just charged me $287 for one ignition coil. So.. online I went to educate myself because as a single mom I cannot afford to pay for being ignorant about my car. Spark Plugs literally cost $11.00 for ALL 4 plugs. The coil I could have gotten for under $75 bucks and it literally just unsnaps/snaps in. So for the cost of him taking out 4 bolts, unsnapping/snapping in a coil, I paid $287.00. Bottom line, thank you guys for your videos! I pulled down my blower and replaced it and AC is running great, no sound at all. I've changed out bad fuses, and just done things I honestly thought would be incomprehensible to do, but were actually pretty bloody simple. Good luck you guys! I was so intimidated to do it but now I feel so proud and safe in my car with my son. And confident if I'm on the road and can't call for help I have the tools/skills to help myself. :-)
So sorry the dealer gotcha! It’s was all meant to be so you can become a Mechanic Mom & keep you and your kids safe & driving down the road w/o any issues! Very proud of you! Wish my mom could that lol 😂
Your gonna make someone a good one that is if you don't get your belly full the first go round . Yes a little knowledge goes a long way and you tube will help you alot good luck to you in both catagories .😘
ok so i did this earlier and changed the air filter and most of the vibration is gone but its still there. id say 60 percent of the vibration is gone and the transmission shifts smoother but still vibrates, what else could it be? scion xb 2004
At minute 2.22, the cable that goes from the lock actuator to the door handle assemble - how it is released and re-attached? I feel I am going to break the plastic trying to get it out. Thanks!
The other similar vibration on these cars aside from the air box that happens is the bottom of the grille. The rubber grommet deteriorates and makes the same noise.
Poor video. Does it wrong and doesn't show the toughest parts.....not to mention the dude with super gay leggings. I got it done despite the terrible video. I wish I would have made one of my own. This is a SUPER easy job if you do it right. Don't drill the rivets, lower the window and then loosen (don't remove) the screws through the access holes then remove the glass. when the black panel is all loose and the lock actuator screws in the door jamb are all out, take off the door handle by first removing the lock (pops out after removing the screw on the door jamb) then slide the handle towards the lock hole and remove the door handle. There is one screw under there that allows you to take out the handle assembly WITH the actuator, all attached to the black panel. Then the entire door handle/lock guts comes out together and you can assemble it all on the black panel while outside the door and just slide it back in. I never would have figured out how to get the cable attached to the door handle assembly if I hadn't taken it all out. I could do this job again in an hour or a little less if I had to. Maybe I'll do it again next weekend and take a video.
Listen to this person for sure! Do not drill the rivets! Take the window completely out like they described. Then the door handle off. Take off the 3 screws holding in the old actuator. You'll be able to completely remove the internal plastic panel. Switching your actuator and reconnecting the exterior door handle cable is super easy with the panel out of the door. Hardest part is repeatedly plugging in the whole inside door panel just to use the window switch haha.
You do not have to drill out the rivets. Just move the window down and there are two access holes on the panel that are plugged. remove the plugs and you can see the two 10mm bolts holding the glass. remove and take the glass off.
zeemughal86 ok so their are two blk rubber plug that is Circle. Remove it and Be4 you unplug the window motor move the window down so the two bolt will line up with the plug hole. It's an 10mm bolt size. Hope you understand what I mean. But I'll send u photos if u like
This video was helpful, yet it directs you to remove the rivets -- DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS! I just did this job on my wife's Hyundai Sonata SE, drilled out the rivets and it took WAY longer and made it more difficult than necessary. This is the correct way: 1) With the door cover off and the window switch(es) still connected, pop off the two rubber grommets on the black door panel(the one that houses the electric motor for the window. These holes will allow you to access the window regulator mechanism). 2) Roll the window down or up, to align the window regulator 10mm bolts with the access holes. 3) Loosen the 10mm bolts a few turns. But do not remove! 4) Remove speaker(this makes it easier getting the window out of the window locking mechanism). 5) Roll window all the way down. 6) Pull up on window and remove window. It takes a little finagling. 7) Remove door panel. 8) Unplug all connects on black door panel. 9) Remove black door panel. NOTE: You have loosen the locking mechanism(The three star bolts) and then slide the white plastic attachment out of the black panel. It's tricky! A couple other notes: Getting the cable connected to the door handle is tricky. This is a medium to hard difficulty job. If you're a novice mechanic, it may be worth taking it to experienced mechanic.
Sean Hall - Can you post a video? Although you show great details on your method, it would really help if you could show a video demonstrating how you executed this project without removing the window. Rivets are pretty darn simple. I would have liked to see what you struggled with on using rivets? Also I would like to know if you have ever done this job without removing the window?
I already completed the job, so I cannot provide a video. You do remove the window; step 3 loosens the window from the regulator, in step 6 you remove the window.
Thanks James! Awesome. I have the same issue on my XA. I will definitely get the grommets. I have so far done the following: Replace the engine mounts, replace the vacuum pipes. It made a LOT of difference on a stop sign. Now I plan to remove the throttle body and clean it out. Although the air filter assembly is poorly designed it ended up like that because of the engine issues which I am trying to address.
Great! Thank you for posting this video my XA has this noise, now I know how to make it go away. I've located the source of the noise at the air filter and I tied it with a piece of wire and of course it didn't work. Thanks again.
Don't apologize for the video The results are rewarding thanks for the info.
Transmission mount is the issue. Fixed mine and it’s not shaking anymore while stopped.
Seriously, EVERYONE with this redlight shaking and racket, look at the exhaust hangers just around the backseat area. If those are worn out, the exhaust is rattling so hard it's shaking everything. The noises like the air filter and heater core, all that stuff, is because the car is shaking from the exhaust. Start your car, put it in park with E-brake obviously, and then get down to ground level by the back door and inspect the exhaust hangers. You'll definitely hear a racket back there if they're worn out and that's the vibration and noise you think is coming from the transmission/heater core/airfilter box. Its a lot easier if you can put the car on stands or ramps. If they're worn out, just take the old ones off so the exhaust doesn't bang on them and all that vibration and noise will go away. Just remember to put new exhaust hangers on so they dont weaken from swinging freely.
P.S. The hangers only cost me about 10 dollars and 20 minutes of getting the car on ramps and pulling out a socket wrench. I PROMISE this is the cure to that redlight shaking problem that no one has found yet. If i'm wrong, make a video showing your car shaking and vibrating and then take off the exhaust hangers and show me that it doesn't go away, i'll eat my hat and yours too! lol
It works for my scion xb 2012. The rubber bushings under the air filter were old and loose cause the vibration and noise. The part number you provided fits perfectly. No more noise after replacing the rubber bushings. Thank you very much!
Either these engines dont like low idle or its in the trans. Replaced my motor and trans mounts and made zero difference but i will say there are no shortage of items on these cars that are loose and can rattle. The good part is that they are super simple and a joy in most cases to work on. I jave a 06 xa with 232,000 miles and runs like a top, didnall the fluids and filters when i bought it with 190k and the only thing I've replaced is the serpentine belt, plugs and valve cover gasket. After just purchasing a chevy traverse and doing the same job and spending 5 hours doing it, I love the scion alot more.
it's your exhaust hangers under the car around the backseat area. Just take them off and see if that doesn't stop the shaking and rattling. They're held on by a couple bolts so it's not a huge effort. If you dont believe me, start your car and then duck down by the back door and listen to the exhaust rattling back there. That noise is being transmitted to your transmission and shaking the motor which in turn is shaking everything else in the bay like the air filter and heater core. Those are not the problem, the root is the exhaust hangers, just check them. If it works for you, spread the word, we can't have these mechanics charging you for all these 'fixes' that aren't the cause. 👍
What is call this rubbers ? Where to buy it ?
This worked on an 04 scion XB.
thank you James, my 2005 scion xb had the same issue.
Guess I should watched the whole video before I commented 😆
No clip that what they make ZIP ties for sir.
2005 Scion Xb 189K Miles...I just did this mod exactly as shown here and also added the washers and it tightens that box up nicely and the box shakes less now and the old rubber crumbled and broke on removal so this was needed. I have a tip: once the new rubber grommets are installed on the airbox Super Glue the washers onto the bottom side of the grommets. The addition of the washers is a very good idea but without superglue they are a nightmare to replace! Believe it! Superglue is the answer here. And of course we all know NOTHING solves the vibration at the red light in a Scion! But this does put the airbox back to as close as it was when it left the factory. Good luck!
Never heard of simple silicone
This happens on Echos as well, same engine too.
The life of a Scion xA and xB owner. We all know the "red light shakes" !
No need to drill the rivets, if you roll the window down and remove the 2 rubber plugs, they line up with the window bolts and the window comes right out, the hardest part is getting the cable in the outside door latch.
It worked fine on my Xb. I was able to locate the parts you used 4 years later. thanks for the video.
You need to replace motor amount bushings I have the same problem
At the point where I need to reattach the cable to the door handle. How is that done? The video totally glosses over this aspect which others have mentioned was difficult to figure out.
2014 Hyundai rear driver side door won’t open. I was able to take the panel and window off now how do i open the door?
Did you figure it out I'm on the same boat?
I replaced my spark plugs and it made the car idle a lot better and the vibration stoped
Do you remember what kind they were? Denso?
@@tomifost I used autozone auto light
NAPA Auto, O'Reillys Auto or Auto Zone Carrie's universal rubber bushings for $3-6 a set.
Sound is the Fan/Blower Motor. Cost up to $75.00. You can pull it down/out through the glove compartment. Vibration sounds like it needs a Tune-up. All 4 spark plugs will run you about $11.00. If the problem persists, test/replace the coils. All 4 run up to $265.00. My car sounded EXACTLY like yours. After vibrating so badly I had to pull off the road and the engine light came on, I was able to pull into Toyota and they worked on the car and handed me a $287 bill. Said had to replace the coil on #2. No idea what that meant, I left feeling good. 10 days later, engine shaking.. not as bad and no light... I pulled into Pep Boys and they said the dealership should have done a Tune-up, not just charged me $287 for one ignition coil. So.. online I went to educate myself because as a single mom I cannot afford to pay for being ignorant about my car. Spark Plugs literally cost $11.00 for ALL 4 plugs. The coil I could have gotten for under $75 bucks and it literally just unsnaps/snaps in. So for the cost of him taking out 4 bolts, unsnapping/snapping in a coil, I paid $287.00. Bottom line, thank you guys for your videos! I pulled down my blower and replaced it and AC is running great, no sound at all. I've changed out bad fuses, and just done things I honestly thought would be incomprehensible to do, but were actually pretty bloody simple. Good luck you guys! I was so intimidated to do it but now I feel so proud and safe in my car with my son. And confident if I'm on the road and can't call for help I have the tools/skills to help myself. :-)
So sorry the dealer gotcha! It’s was all meant to be so you can become a Mechanic Mom & keep you and your kids safe & driving down the road w/o any issues! Very proud of you! Wish my mom could that lol 😂
Your gonna make someone a good one that is if you don't get your belly full the first go round . Yes a little knowledge goes a long way and you tube will help you alot good luck to you in both catagories .😘
Vibration = rattle? Is it a noise thing? Or a vibrating issue? (Having similar issues with my tc.. only when the AC compressor kicks on though)
Both
ok so i did this earlier and changed the air filter and most of the vibration is gone but its still there. id say 60 percent of the vibration is gone and the transmission shifts smoother but still vibrates, what else could it be? scion xb 2004
Loose Exhaust system, check all you exhaust piping running from back to front and make sure its secure.
For my Scion XD, dealer wanted $500 for entire air filter box. Purchase one from RockAuto for $55.
Also, how does pulling the exterior door handle then pull on the cable - I don't see the coupling of the two actions.
At minute 2.22, the cable that goes from the lock actuator to the door handle assemble - how it is released and re-attached? I feel I am going to break the plastic trying to get it out. Thanks!
I am hung up at this same point. Any advice?
Thank you
So you skipped all the parts that actually matter. Garbage
The other similar vibration on these cars aside from the air box that happens is the bottom of the grille. The rubber grommet deteriorates and makes the same noise.
do not drill rivets out that is wrong info!!!!
Poor video. Does it wrong and doesn't show the toughest parts.....not to mention the dude with super gay leggings. I got it done despite the terrible video. I wish I would have made one of my own. This is a SUPER easy job if you do it right. Don't drill the rivets, lower the window and then loosen (don't remove) the screws through the access holes then remove the glass. when the black panel is all loose and the lock actuator screws in the door jamb are all out, take off the door handle by first removing the lock (pops out after removing the screw on the door jamb) then slide the handle towards the lock hole and remove the door handle. There is one screw under there that allows you to take out the handle assembly WITH the actuator, all attached to the black panel. Then the entire door handle/lock guts comes out together and you can assemble it all on the black panel while outside the door and just slide it back in. I never would have figured out how to get the cable attached to the door handle assembly if I hadn't taken it all out. I could do this job again in an hour or a little less if I had to. Maybe I'll do it again next weekend and take a video.
So its not really necessary to take out the window and extra parts?
Listen to this person for sure! Do not drill the rivets! Take the window completely out like they described. Then the door handle off. Take off the 3 screws holding in the old actuator. You'll be able to completely remove the internal plastic panel. Switching your actuator and reconnecting the exterior door handle cable is super easy with the panel out of the door. Hardest part is repeatedly plugging in the whole inside door panel just to use the window switch haha.
Just install a Aftermarket Intake and Problem Solved.!
Damn and I thought it was a motor mount thanks 🙏
Check this out if you want to try and repair your actuator motor: jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-fix-your-broken-electric-door-lock-for-fre-1822020333
crap video. Only video that exists of front door lock replacement and you didn't show anything about removing or replacing the big panel....
Thanks for this video and all the comments below. Combined this is very helpful!!!!
You do not have to drill out the rivets. Just move the window down and there are two access holes on the panel that are plugged. remove the plugs and you can see the two 10mm bolts holding the glass. remove and take the glass off.
Na you just unbolt the two bolt that holds the window and you're good to go
MengeR how do you unbolt them? What tool do I use?
zeemughal86 ok so their are two blk rubber plug that is Circle. Remove it and Be4 you unplug the window motor move the window down so the two bolt will line up with the plug hole. It's an 10mm bolt size. Hope you understand what I mean. But I'll send u photos if u like
Do not drill the out anything
Please do!
MengeR absolutely not drilling anything
thanks for getting the part numbers! it worked perfect
Robyn Kuraoka-Glad it worked!
This video was helpful, yet it directs you to remove the rivets -- DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS! I just did this job on my wife's Hyundai Sonata SE, drilled out the rivets and it took WAY longer and made it more difficult than necessary. This is the correct way: 1) With the door cover off and the window switch(es) still connected, pop off the two rubber grommets on the black door panel(the one that houses the electric motor for the window. These holes will allow you to access the window regulator mechanism). 2) Roll the window down or up, to align the window regulator 10mm bolts with the access holes. 3) Loosen the 10mm bolts a few turns. But do not remove! 4) Remove speaker(this makes it easier getting the window out of the window locking mechanism). 5) Roll window all the way down. 6) Pull up on window and remove window. It takes a little finagling. 7) Remove door panel. 8) Unplug all connects on black door panel. 9) Remove black door panel. NOTE: You have loosen the locking mechanism(The three star bolts) and then slide the white plastic attachment out of the black panel. It's tricky! A couple other notes: Getting the cable connected to the door handle is tricky. This is a medium to hard difficulty job. If you're a novice mechanic, it may be worth taking it to experienced mechanic.
Sean Hall - Can you post a video? Although you show great details on your method, it would really help if you could show a video demonstrating how you executed this project without removing the window. Rivets are pretty darn simple. I would have liked to see what you struggled with on using rivets? Also I would like to know if you have ever done this job without removing the window?
I already completed the job, so I cannot provide a video. You do remove the window; step 3 loosens the window from the regulator, in step 6 you remove the window.
Thanks James! Awesome. I have the same issue on my XA. I will definitely get the grommets. I have so far done the following: Replace the engine mounts, replace the vacuum pipes. It made a LOT of difference on a stop sign. Now I plan to remove the throttle body and clean it out. Although the air filter assembly is poorly designed it ended up like that because of the engine issues which I am trying to address.
Never worked! but I sure got rid of the vibration once I sold the car! thanks much
Great! Thank you for posting this video my XA has this noise, now I know how to make it go away. I've located the source of the noise at the air filter and I tied it with a piece of wire and of course it didn't work. Thanks again.
Thanks
Did this to my XB today and the vibration is gone. Thanks 1,000,000 for posting!!
Did it work ?
JosrRocks , yes it worked
thanks