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Song: Tobu - Faster [NCS Release]

Not to discourage you, but I dont believe this method would be the best idea for the convertibles. I only say that because the rear section of the body would have no real structural support past the dogleg area once lifted off the frame. You would basically never be able to remove the scissor jack without risking damage. I'm assuming you'd like to roll the frame out at some point. Now if the body is completely stripped? Especially of the convertible components, You may be alright. Otherwise I would set the quick jacks a bit further back then I had them. I've since moved mine (planning on showing that in the next vid) due to gravity centers etc. With the convertible being a bit heavier in the rear, you're gonna be relying on the scissor jack a bit more, its gonna be a little wobbly and felt a bit sketchy at first. I'd probably add an extra 2x4 to pairs that span across under the body for extra support. Not sure if your car has the full interior or not either. Also keep in mind, my car was stripped with no fuel tank. There's really nowhere to "conventionally" lift the rear of these bodies past the frame rail section without some ingenuity. The trunk pan seemed to work fine. I've considered the gantry crane route as well, but am putting in a 2 post in next year. Once it's in the air and on the locks, definitely strap/screw/secure the front section down to the quick jack itself before removing the scissor jack. I keep mine in place unless it's in the way, just to be safe. Hope this was somewhat helpful and good luck.

I believe your looking at the water pump

Whiskey? - In the full video I realized I had left my gun on the bench, thus the Texas comment when I realized. You can just catch a glimpse of it to the right.

I used a dial/bore gauge and calipers, then swapped the shells around for the best clearance based on my #s.

The starter stayed engaged when the engine started and locked up, causing the motor to instantly seize. When this happened the exhaust cam itself slipped in the gear, as its pressed on. I've only seen this one other time on a hydro-locked engine. It was very confusing.

@tcfgarage705 Wow, that makes sense that's just really bad luck 😬

Not to make it more confusing but since the exhaust cam itself also drives the fuel pump on a 4 lobe eccentric the resistance from the pump probably aided in stopping the cam where it did. Luckily, no valve contact was made.

Sorry for the late reply, friend. I'm thrilled to hear about another successful build, and I'm glad I was able to help in some way. Thank you for the reply. The TT is still running strong btw, and after all that work still had an oil leak somewhere.

@@tcfgarage705 mine has once in a blue moon a manifold code, the flaps issue. I already replaced it w the revised version and the sensors as well. I usually move the flaps or put the key in the ignition and manually move them. I think it tends to lose its end points calibration. The engine leaks a so so slightly zip of oil somewhere in the side of the block, I think it's that silly bridge where the cylinder head gasket goes around the timing chain. Is almost nothing, no drips on the ground, and no signs of loss of oil in the dipstick. I do notice the area shiny of oil and the subtle oil smell. I run it on 10-40w engine oil and change it every 3k. Currently is stage 2, 23psi on 93 octane tune. Has catted (from a Lexus, not cheap catalytic) DP, upgraded FMIC (big difference in response), 2.5 cat back exhaust. Bought ECS Tuning 21 point coil overs, have not installed them yet.

@@psiturbo I Believe my oil leak is actually the dipstick tube O-ring of all things. I get maybe 2-3 drips in the garage over 1 week so I'm not bothered by it. I'm planning on a Bilstein coilover setup, weight reduction, and probably just a flash tune (likely ECS) to get a few more psi out of the stock turbo. (Hell, my old Saab was faster) Always 93 octane of course. I'd love to upgrade the turbo/injectors & full exhaust but the bottom end of these engines can only hold so much power and as you saw, I didn't do any forged internals. I daily drove a ~400HP B5 S4 for many years so it would take a lot of $ to get this little TT on par with that thing. The Ford galaxie I'm building is going to take care of that for me :)

Thank you, it's not a coupe or a hard top but it's definetly worth fixing up. I'm finding the 65 models had a lot of one year only "things"

Glad I could help, I'll be removing the body at some point.