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I’ve since removed the valves from my other motor that was free except for one lifter with a bent valve. That motor came apart much easier!

The clips were up in the recess in the block and the valve guides were so frozen they wouldn’t slide down so the clips could come out. I’ve since started breaking down my other motor that was not stuck and only had one frozen lifter/bent valve. That motor came apart so much easier!

They were a lot easier to remove in my other motor that was free but this one was a bear. Almost every lifter and valve was rusted in place! Thanks for watching!

@@AJStarch always like to see an old V8 Flathead, it's where it all started, I wonder if one of these new Camaros are Corvettes going to last 100 years or more, like that old flattie!💯

I don’t know but they did a good job with them.

@@VinoRatRodbuilds Thanks, I believe very strongly in responsible gun ownership.

@@lslinder1 You’re welcome, glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Hang in there, it can be frustrating at times but flatheads are really cool motors!

Well I’m not opening mine up unless I have to, I use it too much! 🤣

​@@AJStarch Reason I ask is I know Eastwoods case material uses some form of glass filled/reinforced polymer. Most likely something like PA6-GF30 or PA6-GF20 (either 30% or 20%). I don't see much, if any at all, of the usual glint/glare that glass filled polymer has when I looked at the Bauer in store. It also seemed to scratch easier than a glass filled polymer usually does. So I was just curious if there's any in it at all. It might help explain some or all of the main weight difference as well, if there's none in it. Or less in it. Generally tool grade Polymer mixes are usually between 30% - 15%, but I've seen these mixes as low as 5%. Or none at all. Having none at all can make a part lighter, but you lose some structural rigidity, strength, and toughness.

@@BigBear-- Ah, I see what you’re getting at now. Could very well be where some of the cost difference is obtained.

​@@AJStarchYes. In part not only due to the actual material cost, but the production cost. Glass filled polymer wears out the molds used to make them (more than regular polymer or plastic), the process is also overall more expensive, and often requires more monitoring and occasional mold alteration/adjustment as they produce the run. You can sometimes even tell if they adjusted the mold manually by the internal marks inside the various tool clam shells/covers. If you ever see various rough looking lines or edges molded into the part (particulary near the inside edges) that's often someone at the factory having to lay down a manual weld bead inside the mold, or manually grind some part out. Usually so the part either stays inside the mold, is easier for a robot to pick it up to work with, or to get them to release out of the mold easier.

I do have a wire brush drum on mine now and agree with how effective it is. I’ve also notice the sale prices on Eastwood’s have really narrowed the price gap. I bet they’re not too thrilled about the Bauer version cutting into their profit margin! Thanks for watching!

@@VinoRatRodbuilds I’m not good but at least I’m persistent! 🤣

@@BoxcarsGarage Honestly I have no idea yet, this is a learning experience for me so I just consider it a practice motor right now. But I also haven’t seen anything catastrophic yet either, so maybe. I think the bad areas between some of the valves and their respective cylinders will be ok as that part will be relieved for better flow anyway. Regardless I’m ok with the time spent tearing it down because I’m learning a lot!

@@clarkmarkey1498 Thanks for the ideas Clark, I’m definitely going too explore different methods when I go to do the rear section!

Thank you!

Will do when I get to that point. Still trying to get the valves out now! Thanks for the advice!

You can get em from free to $10k here depending on how much work you want to put into them, but they’re still fairly plentiful. Thanks for watching Glen!

The intake and head bolts came out easier than expected. I only broke two out of like 60ish bolts so I’ll take that! Getting out the broken two will be challenging though. 🤣

Oh I wish that was my case! Spoiler alert but I’ve got half of the valves out now and it was anything butt easy! Hope the second half isn’t as painful! 🤣

@@dannyboyd1299 I was comparing it to the advertised features and price point of the Eastwood. When the HF SCT came out anyone considering it already knew the Eastwood worked great but was expensive, so this was to highlight the HF’s features, performance and cost. Thanks for watching!

@@Trump2024-p4h How slight? I’m leaning towards the lower frame in the video which is about half of the windshield.

Oh snap if you go convertible the chop a lot. If not then just 2-4”

Tall would be different for sure!

@@RobertNabbefeldt Thanks!

@@DeathHelper420 still don’t know if I’ll ever add a top but I am considering it and it would definitely be more room with a taller windshield… then again I’ve never been practical when it comes to cars. 🤣

Yep, think I have to!

Originally the plan was definitely to chop it, but I mocked it up tall just for fun and felt the same way. But I’m still going to chop it… at least I’m pretty sure I am… 🤣

@@AJStarch I guess a lot of it depends on what kind of paint job you're going to give it. Some designs would work better on a larger canvas.

Yeah I’m definitely leaning towards the chop. Already have the goggles but need a leather aviator helmet!

@@kevinshorter5861 Thanks man! 🙏

@@gratefuldawgs2738 yeah, I’m pretty sure that’s the way I’m going!

@@andre1987eph Thank you, we’re lucky to be able to have such a nice neighborhood and I love the driveway for skateboarding! Thanks for watching!

@@vanessapervaiz1053 Glad it helped you out, thanks for watching!

@@tboyz1 Go for it, it isn’t that hard. Just go slow and methodically, good luck!

@@75YBA Yep, agree but there’s always exceptions to the rule. 🤣 Thanks for watching!

@@bobhalstead1879 🤣 I agree! Definitely one of those “Do as I say, not as I do” situations and I do not recommend this method. I’ll be building a spreader tool before I take it apart!

@@bobhalstead1879 All I had on hand was 1/4” so I had to make do with what I had.

@@bobhalstead1879 Cool idea, I’ll have to keep my eye out for one to make my own spreader bar. Thanks for watching!

Shrinker/stretcher & tipping dies is the plan for the rear. When I started the front I didn’t have all the tools so I just improvised. I’m hoping the rears will go faster and easier!

lol. Thanks dude! I’m loving the dimple dies… at this point I’m just looking for stuff to use them on.

Thanks Vino, they’ll be expose for a while yet, it’s going to be quite some time before it’s ready for interior and I learn to sew!

Good thinking! Thanks for watching!

Thanks Randie!

Thank you! Cheers!

Ok.... figured it out..... I needed to use my real hammer and not be nervous. Aha.... on to the next step.

@@barbmartell7901 Glad my instructions helped and that you figured it out! Yeah, it does take some force to drive it in… to anyone else trying to get it in, you can hold the pin with a pair of pliers so you can give it some solid whacks within fear of hitting your fingers. Thanks for watching!

That welding shirt was my Dad’s so I have no idea where he got it. He gave it to me since he doesn’t use it anymore. It’s great when it’s cooler out but it is to hot for the summers here.

I would agree except I bought it used at a fraction of the original price and put $6.00 into it to make it do what I need.

Haha could be… I didn’t see who actually delivered it though. Thanks for watching!