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It is not perfect. Like all AIs it does make mistakes. I asked to name the provinces in China and it got a lot of them wrong and duplicated others. You would think an AI made by China would get the names of China's 34 provinces correct! lol :)

@@ElectroRestore Saw a news article that Apple's Seri gets many of the Super Bowl winners wrong. I see DeepSeek has a 600 GB model. Still amazing what the 9 GB model does. I wonder if that means the 600 GB model is 60 time better than the 9 GB model?

@@franzliszt3195the 600 GB model would be much more advanced than just a fact or 10 over the 9GB model. It is more logarithmic I would think.

@@KJB-Man well, it might be synergistic, which would be more than linear.

if you stop being a clown, and actually read deepseek research paper, you can notice that $6M is the price of a single training run, if they rent GPU-s in the cloud.

does not include salaries, previous runs, failed runs, previous versions of the deepseek model, gathering of data, filtering of data, actual research costs.

I'm in Gainesville. Nice to meet you sir! You did mean west of Atlanta right? I am in NE Georgia. Thanks for commenting!

I still use this one almost daily. Four years and still going strong! :)

To be honest, I really don't know exactly how it works. Like most newer items than 1960s, there are no diagrams of the circuits nor technical manuals out there. If it is making pop-in sounds that are that loud, it has to be some component that needs to be replaced.

True That! Nothing is what it use to be! It is the on-going destruction of this country by the 1% at the top!

I am truly glad you found this helpful! Best hopes for your project! May my God, Jesus Christ, grant you a Happy and Prosperous New Year!

Means you need to change the gaskets and the over heat shut off switch on the tank.

w top cover off- start a brew and observe where leak is. prob a grommet that you can reseal w silicone

Glad it worked for you! Enjoy! 🙂

The issue is that it is a 3-wire stator. You can't remove the speed switch because power need to be applied to the wires by the switch. If you want to slow the fan down, plug it into a variac. If the switch is bad, it will need to be replaced.

@@ElectroRestore me refiero a que si se puede quitar. Porq lo quiero quitar para pintar la base del ventilador, por qué a la hora de quererlo quitar está muy duro, yo creo que así viene de fabrica lo q me da a entender que no se quita.

@@mariosalazar3851 Ya, we don't do painting here. If I was going to paint one, I would just try to mask it off with tape.

@@ElectroRestore está bien gracias. Ya lo pinte y lo cubrí con cinta de papel. No tuve opción.

True, you don't need a formal education. In fact, you can learn this trade by trial and error and using a few manuals on your own. But just like you would not learn how to fix a truck by starting on a $250,000 Hummer, but on a cheap Ford or a Chevy. The same applies here (as I mentioned in the video). Start with a cheap desktop radios until you learn how they work. Then work your way up to these high voltage transformer sets, that have much more value! Burn out a $25 eBay radio, no big deal. Burn out one of these, and you will loose a lot more money (and possibly your life) if you don't know what you are doing!

Yep!

Thank you Jay for your kind words! I truly have enjoyed your channel as well. I recommend it for anyone who wants to learn how to improve their knowledge of vintage tube electronics. Thanks for visiting! <3

No, most BUNNs do not have a thermostat for the warmers. However, it could be a corroded connection to the warmer. If the wire is broken or green in color, you might just need to replace the wire or connector(s).

@ thank you.

It has a 12" speaker with an acoustical dome cover, which is a little larger.

It is not a camera operation training video. It is electronics! Learn to interpret what you are looking at. It is simple! Even a 3rd grader could do it! Keep trying, you will get there!

I do not remember what the resistor value is. You will need to find that out. A good one from a donor unit would be best.

Yes, they have been designed for a short life. We no longer service them due to that fact. It is sad that Bose has never released any service documentation for these units. Nor have they made any parts available to repair them.

@@ElectroRestore I see some on eBay claiming to be new, or unused (maybe they just saved the box), and another claiming to be refurbished. Prices are very high! Thanks for the reply!

Great advice! It is not that folks learning the trade should not ever work on these units. They just need to get some serious experience and perhaps some training from a seasoned veteran technician. And such a person would have them start with small, inexpensive, All American Five, desk top radios till they develop the necessary skills.

You can replace the field coil with a power resistor and that would free up the power supply from the output stage. Than, replace the output transformer for one that has a primary that will work for the load resistance of the output tube (for this 6F6 tube it would be 7k ohms O.T. primary impedance), and a secondary that will work for a 4, 8 or16 ohm speaker of your choice. ;) Note: You can find the load resistance for any output tube in a tube specs sheet. It's easy to get them online.

@@ElectroRestore The standard fix is to use a choke from an old tube audio amplifier to replace the field coil, and use any speaker you want with it.

@@Dennis-mq6or Sure you could. But most people who own these want to preserve them as original as possible. The speaker they have has a cool acoustical cover that gives them really good base response do to the added baffle. Also, rewinding or repairing the field coil, as I have done on this unit, is not really that difficult. Also, this is an AM / SW radio. If you want a better quality sounding radio, you would buy a newer device that has FM. ;)

Just work up to it! Just because a person can change a tire does not mean they are ready to rebuild a motor! 😂

@@ElectroRestore indeed.

Your thinking low voltage / high current: solid state. Tube devices are high voltage / low current. That is a major mind jump! So as a tube device, what we have is this circuit in question (C17 Field Coil C19), which is a pi filter, designed to remove the low millivolt 60/120Hz AC ripple off the high DC (B+) line. Keep in mind that the B+ is up around 300-375V DC! The percentage AC voltage ripple, before the the pi filter, is 5V DC (the filament/heater voltage of the rectifier tube). That is 5vac/300+vdc = 1.67% pre-pi filter. Another way to look at it is: a B+ voltage of 300V DC would be a pulsation DC voltage of 300V +/- 7.07V = 292.93VDC to 307.07VDC. The +/- 7.07V is the peek to peek voltage of 5VDC (5 * 2.828 = 14.14v p-p = sign wave of 7.07p+ to 7.07p-). That is quite insignificant at 300VDC right? And that is BEFORE the pi filter. After the filter, the AC ripple voltage would be a much lower percentage. Perhaps as low as 0.001%. Which at 300V AC is definitely insignificant! Next we have C7 going to ground which the AV ripple would see as a "water slide to ground", while the DC would see an insurmountable wall of concrete! Lastly, the Output Transformer is driven by the amplified audio signal, superimposed on that 300V DC. As for the reflected audio back to the high voltage power supply, who cares? It would be swallowed up and grounded, through the center tap of high voltage winding of the transformer. Again, all these things would be serious issues in a low voltage, solid sate device. And much worst in an analog to digital IC circuit.

@@ElectroRestore so that Hum will be bearly or not hearable and the feed back audio wouldn't be of any significance to cause echo or refraction effect.

@@ON5ALE-Alessio Exactly! Each stage is pretty much isolated from the previous stage by the one-way signal path. On the RF side, you have high frequency filtering through the IF cans (455KHz for AM and 10.7MHz for FM). So feedback there not likely. If you have wires that are not dressed properly in their layout in the chassis. In such a case, it might be possible to get feedback in the oscillator circuit, which has high sensitivity. However, most of it would be stepped on pretty good by the incoming radio station and IF filtering. You would be more likely to get 60/120 Hz hum interference from the AC tube heater wires, if they ran over sensitive areas, than reflected audio signals. Very good questions! Thanks for asking them!

@@ElectroRestore did they had FM and 10.7 MHZ in the 30's? I mean most radios backthen were single conversion on 455 khz I think. I could be wrong.

@@ON5ALE-Alessio @Alessio-v3o No, No FM until much later. I was just including the different frequencies of IF cans in general.

Thank you! I appreciate the positive feedback! Perhaps I will make a video on an AA5 using the smartphone function generator on the RF section to do an alignment.

I could not agree more! I have a TinySA transceiver, a small battery-powered AM, variable frequency transmitter, that I can modulate with my phone. And an even smaller, not much larger than a 9-volt battery, FM transmitter, which works on a good number of preset, fixed frequencies across the band. However, Ireally enjoy the function generator. Perhaps I will make a demo video, showing it in action for diagnosis and AM/FM alignments.

Thank you sir! :)

Yep! Electricity never shows mercy! That sounds like an awesome tee shirt! :)

No, there is no pump. It is called a pour over coffee maker. Because you pour a pot of cold water in the top (when it is already full)and a pot of hot coffee comes out the spout.

​@@ElectroRestore hola tu no tienes algun nuemero de telefono de wassap para que me puedas alludar

El problema de la cafetera es que ella calineta bien pero no echa el agua solo se pone bien caliente..y gracias por estarme alludando

LLENE EL TANQUE Y SE PONE CALINTE PERO NO ECHA EL AGUA SOLO LA CALIENTA

@@josecaceres6022 You have to over fill it: 1. Fill tank. 2. let water get hot. 3. pour in more water and it comes out.

I really don't know. I just leave it on my USB charger when it is not in use. It still works great and can hold a charge for days when I forget to reconnect it. ;)

Yes, I later was able to switch through the hi / low frequency menu. It apparently does .1 to 10 MHz (almost) on low, and up to 60 MHz on high. On high setting, I can still get down to a solid 455KHz for most AM IF tuning and up to the 10.7 I need for FM IF. It will also do the AM/SW bands on antique radios for RF tuning testing and dial setting. But for $20, it is a pretty stable device. To be honest, when I bought this one a few years back, I did not expect it to be anywhere near this accurate. I will be upgrading to the newer one though because it uses more digits.

It is most likely a bad capacitor. Replace it and it should be fine. You might want to use one about .25 uF less than the old one with a higher voltage rating.

It can be caused by tin whiskers shorting the plates in the tuning condenser. I have actually had to use a strong magnifier glass to find and remove them. In regular variable capacitors, like trimmer caps, however, that does not happen. Because the mica chip is larger than the plates and no whiskers can cut through the mica to shorth them out. Glad you liked the video! Thanks for the comment!

There the center is half way! That was my point.

@@ElectroRestore No, the centre is half way down the length of the coil but the centre position is max inductance, with the slug in the centre you have max ferrite between the coils, with the slug at the top or bottom you have min so if you want a position of being able to increase or decrease frequency you need to be between the two.

@@stoptheirlies You are correct. The only way to increase or decrease the inductance, is to be either 25% down from the top, or 25% up from the bottom. That would be the center of the range rather than the center of the coil. I am use to tunable capacitors in antique radios and so it really would not matter if you was at max impedance because you tune with the cap values. For slug values (without SMD) I would just adjust for resonance with the slug and not worry about start or stop position.

Thank you!

@franzliszt3195, Yes they are the DC resistance of the coil wires. They are low because to DC, the coils are like just any other wires, only much longer. So they have some resistance. The IF transformer makers included them to their customers, because the anticipated failure would be an open or a short in the coils themselves. Measuring the resistance (DC ohms) should be in that ballpark. They did not supply the capacitance in most cases because they did not foresee any real chance of failure there. Great question! Thanks for asking! I will be uploading another video in this series soon; hopefully in a day or two!

@@ElectroRestore thank you for the response. It is seldom that anyone makes what may be called a ‘definitive’ version on a subject. Most only go very a partial answer.

Yes I loved Shango's video! I had a lot of experience with SMD. However, I never actually seen it arcing like that one was! You are correct, I should have said B- rather than ground. It is held above ground by that resistor on the secondary side. I was more trying to contrast the potential differences between secondary and primary. Dan's video documented just how much potential difference could exist in SDM to actually jump across such a gap. Thanks for your kind words Steven! I appreciate the support you have shown my channel; now and in my earlier days!

I saw that too. I really like the extra detail from ElectroRestor.

Yes, it is a fun one for sure! You are correct about the phonograph that was installed with it. It is the S-11680 model 78 player. I already rebuilt the motor and still working on recapping the main radio chassis. I love a challenge and this unit has been that! Thanks for the comment Steven! - Paul

That depends on many factors (current draw, phase angle, capacitor/coil values, age, lubrication, bushing/bearing condition, stator condition and hours of usage). Generally, it can range from 600 RPM or so on low to 2K RPM on high. What you need to be concerned with is current draw being less than or equal to the motor’s stated current. And the housing should not get hot to the touch after running.