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Dose it have too be exactly 70% or can it be more (i only have 91%)

[ im having the same problem to / thank , you for youre info ] 💯 %

So, the first piece I did I used the paint brush to apply. Came out unblemished. The second time i used a spatula and I think it went on too thick and like you said with the fan, dried unevenly and cracked.

Sounds like it's ticking way too fast

My clock still chimes every hour. But for the 11th and 12th hour it only chimes 10 gong as it does on the 10th hour

I have a Howard Miller Pendulum wall clock that has been chiming about 2 minutes late instead of on the hour. The minute hand does not have the little washer as shown on this clock in the video. Do you have suggestions on fixing one without that feature?

Ma pendule a un problème, la sonnerie reste coincé entre celles du moins le quart et celle de l'heure pile par exemple,😊

Great video, ye the older Bachmann 58s only had one screw at each end 😊

I have a question of your hand ajustament of clock y made the tutorial but the chime and halfs mark backwards how fix that

Big Ben

0:10 "ding ding dang dong"

But is Woodcock

A very sensible, well narrated video. I have a problem with a brand new Kato n gauge loco with only one set of points. I will be trying your suggestions.

I am so lucky I have a clock from about 1894, still keeping time perfect without a batterie

Hows it going?

click the bart

The models often come with oil like that from new. We tend to put oil on them like sewing machine oil. Bachmann in the UK sell parts, so I sometimes buy the cheapest model I can find and then buy a new body shell for the models that sell the highest or that are harder to find. The models should come with a guide to servicing and removing the body. These can usually be downloaded if they aren't in the box.

Whos here from click the bart😊

Real railroads "undercut" the stock rails, the ones on the outside, so the switch points fit into that cut. Grind a slight notch into the stock rails where the points of the switch engage them.

Brilliant video to solve my exact problems, bing a novice I will have a go at one of my points to start with tomorrow. thank you.

Some might think it a bit drastic but I glued the pickups to the chassis plate they rest on, on my loco , no more slipping!

You should add firstly that this adjustment cannot be done on most early clocks from 18th. century and earlier. It is only relevant to clocks made in the last 70 years.

I have a clock that strikes about 2 minutes off. Even though it has a spring wound mechanical movement regulated by a pendulum, the hands are same as those use for quartz clocks which means your trick won't work. So I'll have to find a way to move one of the gears inside without having to take the movement apart.

Thank you for your video my minute hands not working. It seems very loose. I believe the center sleeve might’ve snapped the our hand chimes, but the minute hand doesn’t shine the hour if that makes sense.

Your hour hand is off now

thank you brilliant

What's a "candy bar"? Do you mean a bar of chocolate?

Will this trick also work for a Kassel 31-day wall clock, or not? That's what I've got now at home. My clock suffers the same exact problem, and my local clock mechanic admits that he doesn't know how to resolve it himself. And so, I'd love to do this repair task on my own clock by myself without spending extra money - if I can. Thanks.

Interesting, thanks for sharing👍

0:03 15 minutes past the hour 00:14 30 minutes past the hour 00:23 45 minutes past the hour 00:42 LOCK YOUR BEDROOM DOOR THE ANIMATRONICS ARE COMING

Thanks! I just found a really amazing 1879 wall clock made by Southern Clock Co. that also tracks the date of the month. It was in rough shape, but I got it all cleaned and working perfectly, except it was chiming a minute late and driving me up the wall trying to fix it. It doesn't have an adjustable hand, but it DOES have a little brass disk and a pin that holds the hand on, so a little light sanding on the inside of the square hand hole and a bit of bending on the hand, with the pin and disc providing the pressure to hold it in position, and it is now chiming when it should. :)

Hunter?

Hello from England. Not sure if you'll see this as I'm adding the comment 1 year after you posted it. I picked up Mary Queen of Scots example recently and added the front end detail to one end, onlt to find I'd done so to the opposite end from where the driver was sitting (schoolboy error!). So your tutorial on how to remove the body came in very handy.

The clock looks like played in night

Beautiful

Very interesting. I learned something new from this. Thanks, Eric.

Hornby & peco track .not much better. The old stuff .in 60s using series 3 and 4;track .. triang was then .then became triang hornby . Then.. Now just hornby But the rail was higher . Had more hieght off the sleepers and fish plates . The trains had a better flange on wheels, on them so it held on the track. Better . Rolling stock was made heavier. Plastic wheels were less bendy and bogies on steam trains were of alloy. Which was more weighted . I never had these problems then when I built a layout .in my child hood The track .cud be put together more easy . And away it went .often fast. Round track over points cross overs. Great..they were lovely. ---------------------------------------------- Recently .in retirement. Started to build one today . Taking 10years so far. The new track is flimsy . Hardley any height of clearance off the sleepers and fish plates. The fish plates often miss when joining them .& Bend easy . Leaving a slight raise .catching the wheels & derailing on the slightly bent fish plates. As the rail clearances are only a miner thow . Height. .off the track fish plates &:sleepers . The track today. Also as no strength .to hold it's own level as they did then. They bend a bit on uneven joined boards . We're the old stuff held the shape .the new stuff bends. Resulting in a sleeper .or fish plates joint bending up out of slight shape . And then wheels catch it . Jump a bit or derail.. On cross overs & points . Yes,, often as in the video. The. Bogie wheels catch the. Point rail . & As the point mechanism. Losens with use . It gets worse. . Also the plastic bit on points . And cross overs , often raise the wheels off the track.. All this . & Contunuis Derailments. . Cause of today's . Methods of making these things . &; the derailing problems. Caused by how it's now made. I have. Become .very.. disheartened . Disappointed . & Lost. Of interst. in it..

part of the tune is my grandpa and grandmas house doorbell

Does this one have the "auto night shut off" feature?

I just fixed my Bulova mantel Westminster Chime at 4 minutes late. Thank you so much.

Very interesting and informative. I've noticed on my own HO scale (Kato Unitrack) layout that one of my locomotives, a Bachmann PRR K4, seems to get its driving wheels snagged on any sort of minute height difference between rails as well as the frog on one particular left-hand turnout. This in turn causes the leading trucks to come off the track. I'm thinking my two options are to either file down the rails so that they're even between joints or add more weight to the leading trucks of my K4.

If you're American, and wonder why the wig-wag signals in the UK have an amber light, it was introduced on wigwags after the 1968 Hixon Rail Crash to warn traffic to stop unless it is unsafe to do so.

How do you use it with DCC?

Cuckoo221

Thanks for the video dude, yes bits fell off. I was nearly there but wasn’t sure as one end was quite sticky.

If you don't have to take the base plate off DONT. You have been warned , the pickups move out of place very easily they slide inbetween the drive Wheels and the chassis with the copper plate sitting flat on the contact just protruding the chassis, before you refit the base plate. I found out the hard way, you have been warned.

Hornby sell a tool for undoing the hex wheel bolt, at the body end of the metal link is a plastic claw that clips onto a pin on the body Take care as the detail parts are very delicate.

I bought a tidy track too and it's not worth it. I use a heavy paper towel and alcohol on a track rail and it cleans engines and car wheels fine.

Thank you for this. these powercabs have so many hidden tricks that are extremely useful.

That's not deep...