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You mean the ripples on a bead of caulk? I try to hold the nozzle at one angle (45deg?), keep the caulk flowing from the tube at a constant amount and keep the tip moving. I've done this in a former life as part of a job and honestly wasn't that good at it. Having good caulk that flows easily, and a good gun that doesn't take too much effort, really help too. I was pleasantly surprised by the gun and the caulk that I used. But also, the cheap little multi-tool I used helps to clean any imperfections after the fact. I never had much success with the finger method. I have another multi-tool being sent that I'll be testing soon. It's a bit more money and comes with some tips. I'll be testing that in another video. Another point: Before putting down a bead, it's good to practice the motion in the air and know where you'll start and end the bead and make sure there are no obstructions in your path. Hope that helps.

Comes in a 10 oz tube from Amazon. You can do it!

Well, if I didn't have the impact wrench, or it hadn't worked for me, I would probably have been trying some of those things too. Changing the plastic drain valve for brass is a great idea.

It doesn't seem to be that delicate and the impact wrench is only giving it tiny little impacts. The advantage seems to be that it doesn't turn the tank. I've seen other videos of people putting straps on the tank to prevent turning. I also imagine that most of the force is dissipated by the water in the tank. If I didn't have the impact wrench then I would have used a bar.

Wasn't aware of that. However, the more expensive of the two was offered and installed by the local gas utility company. The cheaper one was bought at the box store.

@@DIYWithJC ..kinda what I'm saying....hard for the DIY'er to buy and self install the Pro unit. Seems normal folks can only buy the Performance model with some less-costly components...plastic drain valve.....cheaper electric heating element, etc....... availabe from the box stores for anyone to purchase

@@TheWilferch Right, that seems to be how the manufacturers keep both camps happy.

I'm planning to open it back up and go in with a camera probe to make sure it doesn't soon. Thanks for the confirmation.

@@DIYWithJC ....👍

Good idea, but I think I tried and was having a hard time. What's a pick tool?

Are you from NZ?! That's the only place I could see where WOF means Warrant Of Fitness. This is the US and the standards are not that high here. This car just passed an inspection for another year, even with the exhaust like that and whatever rust you are seeing that would fail your WOF.

The Dong Cheng actually worked pretty good once I turned it up on high. You're right about the wiring - but it wasn't me who did it!

Will the plain steel will reduce the effectiveness of the anodes? Is it diluting the protection? Or, is that just by a negligible amount? These are questions that come to mind. I don't think the tape will affect electrical contact with the tank. In my mind the tape is neither an insulation nor a seal. It's just there to help get the tapered threads solidly engaged with each other. There should be be multiple points of metal to metal contact if the threads are tight.

@@DIYWithJC The plain steel has no more effect than equivalent area of inner surface of the metal tank.

​@@DIYWithJC FYI from a retired thread head: Tapered Pipe threads (NPT) seat on the middle/straight flanks of the sawtooth thread form. At that point the roots (valleys)and crests (points) of both internal AND external are not creating a metal to metal seal, but toleranced to leave a void between roots and crests The Teflon tape (or pipe dope) is absolutely necessary to fill that gap & ensure root/crest sealing. Only NPSF threads used in fuel systems are toleranced tight enough (<0.001") to seal at the crest/root area. F is for Fuel- which would eat pipe dope away. The NPSF are mostly used in aerospace = big $

@@dhgmllcshea5038 That's interesting. I thought that there was some deformation of the taper that would cause metal to metal contact all around. But are you saying that the contact is not around the entire circumference therefore requiring tape or pipe dope to fill the voids? If that's the case then it makes sense that you need the tape.

@@DIYWithJCFirst, I forgot to say Thank You for your video. Second, yes- but while there are some "roundness" issues around the circumference that the tape/sealant will help with, I was pointing out that the basic thread form "triangles" are not sharp points that match perfectly at the OD and ID of the threads. There is one spiral leak path at the ID and one at the OD of the threads because the (not quite) sharp points of the thread do not EXACTLY match the not quite sharp valleys that they engage. If you google NPT Threads toy will see diagrams of the mating threads that make this clearer.

Thank you my friend.

Fraid not. The last blower motor resistor I changed was on a Ford Explorer and that was somewhere around the glove box. Good luck finding it!

Agreed! Japan drives on the left like the UK but I still have trouble when switching sides - just like switching sawing directions. Thanks for the observation.

... at least every household that does a little woodworking!

Yes they are!

Thanks, I'm proud of myself!

It's another sealed carbon filter. Water from the tank passes through it. My theory is that it would remove any rust particles that come from the tank. This is the first time I ever changed it after 4 years.

These tanks are just sitting on the ground - not fastened. Even full of water I could feel one tank shifting when I used just a short wrench. The impact wrench doesn't turn the tank. The powered rod seems like a good idea.

Another hint.....any breaker bar or "pressure" affect usually doesn't work to get the rod out. To illustrate...it's like saying a constant and forceful "pressure" will drive a nail into wood. Won't work. You need an impulse added to the actual pressure applied. If you don't use an impacr wrench, then use the standard tools you have but tap the end of the lever handle with a mallet ( rubber mallet works)....this gives the desired "impact" to help loosen the nut.

Glad it helped!

Didn't know that, and until you mentioned it I didn't know what that was. Thanks for pointing that out. If you have a minute I'd like to know where it appears in the video to be sure where you saw that. Any plumbing you see was done by other people, except for changing the anode.

Haha! Yea, that guy was a little sloppy wasn't he. No, it wasn't me! But, you are right, I'll put it on my to do list.

@@DIYWithJC You have motivated me to go and check on my anode rods in my water heater!

That's how it's done in Jersey - and have been fire department approved. Perhaps where you are there is a different code? Ovens and dryers I can see because they sometimes need to be moved, but water heaters? What's the risk?

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna check. I have a camera that I received in exchange for a review. I can drop it inside the tank and will post a video of what I find. It will be interesting to see.

Well, thanks, but in my mind it's not so good. I didn't use a backwards saw for a while. It's like going to the UK driving on the left - takes a while to re-wire your brain!

Perhaps depends on how much calcium is in your water supply, but seems like a good way.

I also installed an electric anode in my new water heater because the sacrificial anodes caused sulfur dioxide (rotten eggs) smell. After 8 years the e-anode is going strong with no smell and the heater parts remain protected. My water is from a well.

@@doughoffman9463 That's good to know I just installed mine last April. I hope it lasts a long time.

Always glad to help!

Sounds like you know what you're doing.

It's electric!

It's just his way of getting attention! What's the movie? Perhaps I should watch it.

I personally kept the Amazon - it's a workhorse. Actually the Bonsaii has a weaker motor and seemed to be getting weaker as it was pushed. The internal drive actually broke while I was testing it with more than 10 sheets. I didn't want to report that because I was going beyond what was claimed. However it does show that the Bonsaii has poor overload protection while the Amazon just stopped and reversed itself when put it to the same test.

@@DIYWithJC Good to know. I just ordered the Amazon one. Very glad I saw your video first!

Haha, great! Now that you mentioned it I think I need to make some more.

A 3’ breaker bar works fine to loosen the anode rods too, you don’t need to use an impact if you don’t have one.

Good thing about the impact driver is that it doesn't rotate the tank so you can do it easily by yourself.

@@DIYWithJC My impact driver wouldn't budge the rod. The breaker bar upended the tank even when full, even after I soaked the top with solvent.

My pleasure! Thanks for watching.

Thanks! Every kitchen should have one or two of these..

I forget the exact grade of this wheel but it's fairly course. So possibly this is less likely to clog than what you've experienced.

It can be - I agree. Table saws and other power tools can be extremely dangerous and we shouldn't ever become complacent around them. I'm not condoning removing or leaving off any safety devices. This is just my cheap old table saw that doesn't have any.

Ya think, but are you sure!?

Haha! glad you liked it. What was it specifically that made you laugh?

@ just re watch the vid 🤣

Ok I get it. There's something satisfying about doing it the old way right?! I just have this impact wrench that I got in exchange for a review and it was the second time I've had chance to use it.

Any ideas how to remove the rod the manufacturer epoxies in?

@@chazits I saw another TH-cam where someone had something covering the rod and they just hacked away at it. You're sure it's the rod right? How about a small chisel, or drill multiple holes to get down to the plug? Just stay away from any epoxy dust and the fumes if the epoxy gets heated up. Perhaps a vacuum with a HEPA filter would help with that. That's just my thoughts. Good luck!

​@@DIYWithJC it's the anode rod, I can get a socket on it , but the epoxy is below the nut. I'll try digging it out as you suggest .

@@chazits I put a "cheater bar" on my socket wrench handle. It's just a piece of pipe. I don't use it on the ratchet, just the swivel. Don't completely drain the tank. The weight of the water in the tank can help keep the tank from rotating. I had to put a strap on a tank that I'd drained. If you have an earthquake strap, you probably don't have to worry about it.

Makes me wonder though, if the anode is protecting itself wouldn't that take away from protecting the tank?

@@DIYWithJC Nah, everything in contact should be protected but I imagine the segmented anode doesn't last quite as long. I figure I'll do this again in 4~5 years.

It doesn't but we have an old lid that fits it pretty well.

But why? The supply is all copper. It seems that those were for use when you have dissimilar metals being used in a system. It also seems that dielectric unions have not been shown to be effective and have gone out of favor. Am I missing something?

Great tip about the drain. The problem I've noticed using a breaker bar is I've seen people on TH-cam moving the tank. If you are doing it alone the impact wrench seems a lot easier. What's the problem with that?

I would guess hard water. I just changed a 14 year old anode rod at my mountain condo where the water is soft and frankly I needn't have bothered - it looked new. Down at my LA area home, where the water is hard, they look like the ones in the video after a few years. When I did my lady friend's 15 year old rod, there was literally nothing left.

I remember reading somewhere that you can cut the rod. I don't remember it giving reasons why. BTW, it's in NJ and probably the water is somewhere in the middle - neither hard nor soft.

Thanks, I enjoyed it too!