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@@JimPolum it's a 2 jaw bearing puller. Got it from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DX57MXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@Larry-b6l1e So true, you can get them close and good-looking. If you want perfect gaps, it's cut, weld, and or fill. Good point.

@billydean3068 if I understand the question. Let's say you are working on the left side fender. The top closest to the door will need to be shimmed up or the front of the fender needs to go down. Fender Shims can be used to tilt the fender to close the gap. Some fenders due to parts for frame not straight might need to weld to fill the gap. But if all good parts shims should work.

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Thanks, yes I understand all that, but I noticed your hinge is not like mine on my 1958 with the spring being attached to the inner fender. I have my Rad support all the way down with no shims. Everything is level hood cowl cab but I lack being able to move the fender counter clockwise. Nose down. I finally today removed the hood and detached the spring from the inner fender so I can move the inner fender with the outer together. We will see.

yes it is

@wayneotte6179 Wayne I did not make a video for that.

try this site what I used to jet mine. www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/ Hope this helps

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 That is perfect! Thanks so much.

Did you end up having to do anything with your pump spill jets? Reading through the link you sent and he shows a picture of it, but doesn’t make any recommendations. Mine are stamped with 40. Maybe they are already okay?

@danlwright I'll have to check I don't think so but I think mine were 50.

Not sure on powerglide but I would reach out to Lokar and see what they have. That is the company I used

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Thank you very much for the information

I can think of a few things. My best guesses are. (1) When you close the hood slowly, your hood hindge should hold the rear of the hood up off the fenders and drop it down at the end. Sometimes you see people push down on the hood because it does not drop down all the way. If not look at the hindges and springs. (2) There are two adjustable hood bumpers/stops on the top of the firewall one on each side. These can be adjusted to hold the back of the hood up at the right hight. These should be adjusted so the hood rest on them. There are also other rubber bumpers running down the side and front of the hood to protect the hood to fender contact. (3)Fender alighment could be set to high. links below shows what the bumpers look like. Adjustable hood bumper: classicparts.com/1955-59-hood-adjuster-bolt-bumper-set?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx_xi4SALDmcofQvmTk6VThtC6nrUv-j-OOu10tqFeb4ipxyWGmttxhoCa0YQAvD_BwE Hood pumpers: classicparts.com/1955-57-hood-bumper-set?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx9sVBoOx7zc8YMVQRQiFiD_P_W-6wi43UYjjLerIuCZwxRLyQNsGmRoCoOkQAvD_BwE

I do have the vowel hood bumpers adjusted all the way down and the hood to fender bumpers installed. I tried after market hinges but they had a couple of incorrect dimensions that did not permit hood to close. I used new springs on old hinges but hood for not appear to lift before opening. I did find a crack in drivers side hood bracket that I’ll fix and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas.

@des5779 Question if the hood was set in place without the hindges. Does the hood sit right without hitting anything. It should sit on the bumpers and not hit.

Yes, it does sit on the bumpers and not hitting when closed. The back corners do not appear to raise when opening, therefore the hood corners drag the fenders because the fender angle narrows forward.

@des5779 from hood latched down mine sits flush. If I raise it to the first latch, the front raises, and the back tilts slightly but does not hit anything. If I raise the hood to the top of the latch the back starts to lift with the front. Lift from there the back lifts 1/2" to clear the frnders. Part of how the hinges works. If the back is not lifting, I seen when the hinges are sitting to low, not allowing the hinge to lift or lower the hood back end when opening or closing. For me, the point this happens is where the hood sits on top of the hood latch. Before the safety or lock. Raze it from there the back lifts with the front. Lower it below that point and the back should lower. It's about 1/2" of movement. This is what keeps the back of the hood from hitting the back of the fenders. Hope thus helps.

I had an issue with an aftermarket door, so I rebuilt the original. The aftermarket looked good but was smaller than the original. The work to fix it was more than fixing the door I had.

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 Mine doors and windows were too far gone. I prehung the doors and got the gaps right before paint. Now I'm putting in the windows and the door frame upper window bends at a different angle. I think I can get it to work grinding and making a u bracket to hold it in the channel. My last option is a 1 piece window with glass cut from my template.

Thank you for your imput

Thanks 😊

Love these old trucks glad another one is saved

Due I used tci ifs and changes the rear axle and 4 link. I had to have custom wheel offset done. Unless you did the same as mine, my offset/backspace would not work for you.

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 thank you i think i figured it out….

I didn't use the velcro. I used heavy-duty snaps to hold it in place to the lip under the window. Did not have to cut the bottom. I put speakers on each side, so I had to cut the sides to fit where I put the speakers.

I sold the bus last year but worked great. It's much better than stock. I tried the stock and they only lasted 6 months changes to these and no issues for 3 years.

Thank you for the videos

1999 silverado seats

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 thank you

If I understand your question right. The steering bars have room to slide in the couplers giving you room to put it all together. You fit them together so the bars fit inside the couplers without hitting when turning the steering wheel and tighten up everything. If everything is set right you can turn the steering wheel without binding. The slack is in side the couplers about half an inch. This allows you to put it together. But if you push the bars in too much they will bind inside the couplers.

No issued but I did rap any wires with heat shield that were close to the exhaust. Protecting any wires or connectors from the exhaust heat. Only spot I thought would get hot enough to do any damage. No issued just protect any wiring that runs near the exhaust, and you should be good.

@@oldmanfixingstuff3722 thanks for replying, that gives me confidence! I've been putting standard heatshrink over these to increase the stability, then electrical tape, then tesa tape, then heat shielding near exhaust etc so hopefully I'll be all good! Great vids and awesome ride, by the way!

After I bolted everything together, I had just enough room to use 90 degree hoses cut to lenght and couplers to tie them together. One of the top hose coupler has a steam port adapter needed for the LS. I used 3 90 on top cut to fit with 2 couplers and just 1 90 on bottom.

Mine were the first and second versions. They have a new version as they fix issues in the newer models. So far, 4 years and three replacements units. I have two years on the last replacement and it still collects water in the oil and draining the water helps. But remember, this is a fix for an issue of the unit collecting water in the oil. I have helped Eastwood on many issues due to being an early buyer of the units and reporting back on issues. They just released a new on-off pressure switch for the units. I have gone through two before getting the new switch. Eastwood is providing it for free if you have an issue with the on/off pressure switch. The new units already have this fix. As I find and report issues back to Eastwood I also post so others that have or are going to buy will know. I like the units, but I am still concerned about the damage the water might cause that is in the oil. I have one year left on the warrent. Hope this helps.

True, it will not run correctly, as I found out. I did have to go to a higher psi flow restrictor to make it work. Go with what ccp tells you. I have had no issues with my rack. Now my rack came from TCI IFS kit. But I don't think it's any different than stock. Maybe because the flow goes to the hydroboost first but no issues as of today, and I have about 3000 miles on this setup so far. Stops great also. 👍