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It’s been a month since I bought my white XJ6N, and it’s a bike that’s truly worth appreciating. So far, I’ve been riding it just for fun, and it hasn’t disappointed me. It has good power, and the best part is the sound. I’m planning to install an exhaust system, the "XJ6N 09-15 Low Exhaust System 300mm Oval Black Stainless Carbon," which doesn’t produce an overly loud sound, and I’ll remove the sticker so the police don’t stop me XD. I hope you can sort out the issues with yours, as it’s a very admired bike and is becoming increasingly rare. Good luck, and I hope for the best!

Wäre es bei dem Motorrad nicht wirtschaftlicher direkt ein neues zu kaufen? Oder hängen da noch Emotionen dran?

Thanks for showing the process! I've recently bought a 2010 XJ6 DIV F as my first bike and I'm looking forward to do DIY 20k KM overhaul, perfect for the winter season😅

You're very patient and doing an excellent job. Congrats!

You looking beautiful, love you

I bought an fz6 in Australia.

Awesome

really good choice iam planning on buying xj6 next year

is there also a tutorial for gear box oil change?

Took my 40yrs old Guzzi out for a blast today then watched your video when I got home , wish I had your scenery.Would be nice if we could hear your engines working though those switch backs occasionally !

Awesome

Glad my bike finally got some k`s!

Do you under seal your car at all ?

Ok nächstes Sommer mal wieder? 👀

Ciao Kiara, I have a question since I would like to purchase the same bike but cant seem to find the info online. Does it have ABS or no ? Its a big thing for me as a new rider. Thanks!

Looks great ,ideal for the roads around there enjoy 👍👍👍👍

I have had my all four of my Minis above 130 mph 210 km and it never felt like it was lifting off. I have owned R53, R56, and 2 F56s never had your uncomfortable seat issue either.

I do my plugs one at a time, so I don't mix up the coil packs.

In the UK, the interval for the air filter and spark plugs is 4 years.

Subscribed to your channel, Hello from Singapore !

I love you 😗

It's a long time to fix this motocycle, as I remeber it's broken at least two months ago

Nice tutorial! Can't wait for part 2 to see how it goes! Actually I’m looking forward to come to Austria this summer with my HD to ride some mountain twisty roads. Will you be interested in a ride together? I’m from Italy btw

Just replaced all my dust shields, they are still available, ordered my set from Schmiedmann in the NL and they're fairly inexpensive.

What size T bit did you use to take out those screws/bolts?

cool looks nice

Black Hammeright is the same but it is already in a different colour paint, ceramic brake pads reduce the dust to

Before you spend any more money on this bike rotate the counter shaft sprocket by hand and see if this thing will shift through the gears. Also the part that broke off is what disengages the clutch. If the transmission isn't broken and you get this to run you had better have a plan as what to do when it breaks off again and you're going down the road in 6th gear.

Hi Kiara, I happen to be a licensed german car mechanic and have been working as a motorcycle mechanic for some years. If you were to bring this bike to me right now, with the premise that you have to have this fixed without actually replacing the crankcase, I would attempt the following. First off, I cannot believe how unlucky I think you are. Breaking your chain, although it can happen, is extremely rare, and especially not on a bike that looked like yours. It looked like they took care of it, but then again, chain maintenance is something a lot of people neglect. You are one unlucky bird I have to say, but then again, you are lucky that the chain didn't lock your rear and made you crash. Keep in mind, once you are back up and running again, if you take good care of your chain, a good quality chain will last you thousands of miles with no worries whatsoever. Ok, here we go... 1. Threading a hole into the case under the broken stud piece. I would try to determine how much "meat" is still left in the crank/clutch case under the surface of the broken stud to possibly still drill and thread more thread into the case in order to get a longer bolt through the broken stud to hold the clutch actuator assembly in place. I am almost certain though, actually seeing it myself, that I would probably not attempt it just yet, as the risk of protruding into the case is high. This could be attempted as a last ditch effort with the clear acknowledgment that this might be the last task before having to replace the case anyway. 2. Riding it with only two screws attached. (Most likely what will happen anyway) Unfortunately the pressure of your clutch plates through your clutch rod will keep on putting bending forces on your two existing bolts, and the clutch will most likely feel pretty soft as the throw out assembly will flex. Make sure that you'll use at least blue Loctite thread locker, possibly red, on both of these bolts by filling the threads and covering the bolt threads fully. Gluing the aluminum stud will most likely not hold at all, as the throw out mechanism will put tension on the break surface which isn't even anymore either. You might be able to wing it for a while this way. The good news is that you won't "break" it more by trying it this way, unless your clutch simply wouldn't separate anymore properly and the gears changes are getting sticky and rough. That's your cue that it didn't work. 3. Aluminum welding the stud back onto the case. There is one other possible fix that doesn't require you to take the engine apart. Have a welder aluminum weld the stud back on. You might have to replace the clutch rod seal, as the heat might melt it. I have been riding for 40 years and have only had one chain snap on me. In the future, as a rule, when you buy a used bike, putting a new chain and sprocket set on it is highly recommended, as most people don't maintain their chains. Also, watch some youtube videos on how to evaluate chains and sprockets. th-cam.com/video/J2xAlkOf8MI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=syM_QmuMTQxotQ_p My chain broke where the chain link lock was. I recommend not using a chain link lock, but rivet it instead. There are good chain rivet kits out there, don't buy cheap chinese crap for that. The rivet kit allows you to break the chain as well. you'll need your dremel tool or a die grinder for that too. Also, don't buy cheap no brand chains, I see the one you had there (D.I.D) is a good brand chain. For daily street use o-ring chain or x-ring chains are better than high performance roller chains that require more maintenance and more often replacement. Last but not least: I highly recommend installing an electronic automatic chain oiler. www.scottoiler.com/de/ It automatically lubes your chain while riding and will make your chain last a LOT longer. If there is one thing that I would say I hated riding bikes for 40 years now is, lubing the chain. The Scott Oiler takes magically care of that. The V3.1 version is what I would invest money in, I have ridden it on my 2023 MT09 SP now for a while and will never go back to spray cans. Last option: One other way to fix it properly and hold up long term, maybe there are some affordable engines to swap out there. It might end up being cheaper than replacing the entire crank case due to the labor involved. Good luck with the repair. Keep on posting. Oliver

Hi Kiara, congratulations on your beautiful bike. I am originally from Germany and began riding there 40 years ago. Since then, I have been riding almost every single day of my life and will never stop. Seeing your footage from the Alps, makes me envious as where I am living now, in Texas, it's not even comparable to what YOU can enjoy, at least when the weather is nice. I still remember when I began riding at 18 years old, and enjoy seeing when young people get into riding. I currently ride a 2023 Yamaha MT09 SP and have also customized it quite a bit. I highly recommend taking cornering classes that are held on race tracks, and to train slow riding skills as well on parking lots. I personally took the Keith Code's California Superbike School Class. I am sure they have comparable courses in Austria, or you might have to make a trip to the US and experience it here. They have them all over the country here now. superbikeschool.com/ Good luck with your bike and car adventures. Oliver

Hello, did you tighten your chain too much and ran for very long ?

Not sure why some ppl comment about you overtaking dangerously and speeds. You seem to have pretty good control of the bike, speeds were not very excessive and all the overtaking manoeuvres seem perfectly fine. I've seen plenty of riders with 30 years of "experience" that shouldn't be on any bike at all. Including plenty of youtubers. The years mean nothing if your doing 1k every year. When it comes to the chain is it very unlikely that it broke because of lack of lubrication. Lubrication is not as important as most ppl think. Most probably cause was improper adjustment of the chain. To tight, too loose or misaligned .

This is all patchwork.... maybe you should bite the bullet and replace the crankcase, I know it's so much more work, but the opoxy will not hold in that place. There is oil, heat, vibrations, and crankcase pressure....it's only going to hold for a very small time and give way, leaving you with even more lost time and money.

How does a chain "rip?"

Nice bike

I'm about to own one...but I'm worried about spares , where can i get them in South Africa?

Super ❤

Nices Video, auch die anderen sind super :) Man merkt, dass du dein Herzblut reinsteckst, gib niemals auf und du wirst sehen irgendwann kommt dein Durchbruch auf TH-cam :) Auch dein Englisch ist absolut on point🙏 Grüße aus der Nachbarschaft und viel Erfolg weiterhin, Abo definitiv dagelassen

how does that not change the spring rate?

Great video

be careful , that thing is fast :D

how did you still get a brand new XJ6N so many years after its production ended? wow WAIT, 21K KM clocked on this bike and it still looks so brand spanking new?

buy original type of windscreen vipers and it should be fine, those aero blades raerly work on a cars that have original classic style viper blades

Keep up the good work honey.. the mini and random people appreciate you ✌️

Scenery is amazing, reminds me a lot of Canada, all the trees, mountains. and even better with a Mini Cooper S and girl driver that can drive properly (manual shift ) fantastic photography and camera you have.

nice onboard section at the end of the video.. i am sure in time you will be able to buy a used or new casing for your bike, yes maybe the alloy glue will hold for a while until you can get a new one. keep everyone updated..

This video was made a year ago so i think my comment is a little late. for more precise measurements you can measure from the shoulder of the strut (a line machined on the strut where it will get bigger diameter) instead of the thread, as the thread is not parallel line horizontally. even 1 mm can make a difference. if you are going aggressive i would recommend "eccentric top mounts" so you can set the correct camber and caster at an alignment shop after. for wheels, yes some lighter wheels with correct offset would be best option, spacers not recommended as will put more stress on your wheel bearings and will make the tire close to the wheel arch / fender edge and trim. from having a gen 1 and gen 2 Cooper S, i think the factory suspension is very good setup, i think a 10mm drop if you wanted would be ok, but 15mm or more not for road use. as then you need to change a bunch of other things. good on you for trying to do all this by yourself. look at Demon Tweaks, or ECS tuning for wheels / parts etc. or more local if you know where to find. generally with wheels, you need to check out all the details, like size, offset, hole spacing, how they are manufactured (flow form good option, forged are obviously best but cost the earth) weight is a very important factor to consider. less weight better performance and less stress on other car components. you get what you pay for normally. www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/motorsport/wheels-tyres/competition-wheels/ Speedline Corse 2120 Turini Alloy 17" wheels i had on a Subaru back in 2010. awesome wheels, but again you pay for them.

great video and well documented. something i do is once your oil pan drain plug is out, and oil filter is out (with the filler cap removed) is pour some new oil (if you have plenty) until it runs out of the oil sump pan drain port clear. this basically flushes out the oil gallery's and areas the oil runs through, making sure its respectively cleaned out, and you will have super clean dip stick and oil in your engine. make sure you torque the drain plug and filter cap to the manufactures specs with a torque wrench. and if your ever at a BMW / Mini dealer, or order online get a bag or about 10 sump plug copper crush washers so it will do you for a long time. you can also buy a case / pack of 4 filters (official ones) i think i got online somewhere when i had my 2007 Cooper S. love that drain pan and idea of custom made wooden ramps. great idea. As you drive all weather conditions and in the snow etc, have you considered getting a Alloy rally type sump guard? it can save destroying your engine if you hit a block of hard snow / ice / log etc loving your channel and Mini videos, not many people like yourself that can do their own mechanical work on their own car.

I really love the light blue assents and trim lines, this is a nice spec and used to have a 2007 Cooper S, it was nice. however there have been some engine "death rattle" issues on some years. i think a lot of the time if you look after your car, service it well and keep up all the maintenance service then it will look after you. i am now on my 5th Mini Cooper, so yes i do like them and got to know the mechanical aspects of them. this is a great video and description Kiara.

Hi! What lowering kit do you use? How harsh the ride has become? I have a standard S R56 Lci but it looks to stay a bit to high for my taste! Thanks!