วีดีโอ

You're welcome! Good luck on your sewing journey. Let me know if you need help with any other projects?

Glad I could help! 😊

Yes, my tape measure is always around my neck - just need somewhere for my scissors now 😛

Glad you enjoyed it! 😊

Of course! I've had a couple of Alaïa skirt questions. If you want to email a photo of the Alaïa skirt you are trying to make to studio@cliqdpatternkits.com I can send you some tips 😊

Thank you! Your comment made my day 😊

Glad it was helpful! 😊

You're welcome! 🥰

Your comment made my day! Thank you 🥰

You're welcome! I'm glad you found it helpful 🥰

Yes, linings are so tricky!!! And it really depends on your fabric and finishes too. I'll put this video on my to-do-list. Do you usually have an open or closed hem? And do you have facings or use binding on your neck and armhole? In the meantime, my One Dart Fitted Dress Guide talks a lot about different linings. And can show you how to create linings for dresses with open and closed hems, bindings & facings. www.cliqdpatternkits.com/products/one-dart-fitted-dress-pattern-kit With flat lining, it's actually used to give the fabric more strength, as opposed to a tradition 'lining'. So, you actually use the same pattern piece for the self and lining fabric. And stitch them together (piece by piece) then sew all the pieces together to create your garment.

Yes! Great tip!! It's all about playing with the shapes to get the best fit for your body. 😊

I'll make sure to do that in my next skirt video. Thanks for the suggestion! 😊

Like this tip x🎉

Simple yet makes a big difference. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent ☺️🙏

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it 😊

I've never used it on wool fabric. But, in general, the heavier the fabric the less effective the tape is. You could try two layers of tape? Also, will your skirt have lining? If it does, maybe you could fuse the fabric? This will give it more structure.

Thank you so much for your comment!!! I'm so glad my process has worked for you 😊 I got the HJA book when I started pattern making (like most people). I tried making blocks using it when I was starting out, but they didn't really work. However, I think it explains general theory well, so I still show my students diagrams from it so they can understand things conceptually (e.g. how to add pleats to trousers and create raglan sleeve). I don't use her measurements though. I like my students to think for themselves and use their own wardrobe for inspiration.

@ ok thanks for that! How do you teach your students to develop blocks? Do you use a method or have you devised your own? If so do you teach it online? I’m in Australia but with two kids at home I am an online learner! X

@@PilatesByLisa I'll be launching my own pattern making course next year (I'm pregnant with my 2nd right now, so need to focus on that atm) and it will be online. 😊 But in general, I would encourage you to get a mannequin and drape your own dress block, or buy a block (I sell mine on my website www.cliqdpatternkits.com/) and adapt it to your own size. I've done videos on draping and fitting dress blocks (see links below). As you probably know from trying the HJA method, it's really hard to get a good block using flat pattern making alone - the measurements just aren't enough to capture all the curves of your body. Fitting video - th-cam.com/video/Ldy2UiyfLmc/w-d-xo.html Drape dress block - th-cam.com/video/KfZj9DLXkAo/w-d-xo.html Once you have a fitted dress block, you can then start adapting it to other styles like loose dresses, shirts and jackets. And I'll be doing a video on that before the end of the year too. With trousers, TBH I usually start with a block because they are hard to get right. But, I'll be including the best method to use in my online course next year. Let me know if you have any more questions 🥰

Your comment made my day! Thank you 😊

Thanks for your question. 😊 Just to clarify, do you mean the seam allowance along the waist? I usually do all my slash and spreading first. Then, when I'm happy with the shape, I'll 'blend' the points along the seams where I slashed, to create nice, smooth lines. Then, I'll add my seam allowances. Did that answer your question?

I was wondering more about the waist measurement for the back. I did a 3/4 circle for the front, then blended and added seams. For the back I wanted to add a full circle. So would I just use the 3/4 pattern, take off the 2 cm, then continue spreading?

@@planetcomputer3884 Yes! You've got it. Just take 2cm off at the side seam and then spread the pattern some more. 🥰

Thank you so much!

Yes! Let me know if you have any questions 😊

Yes, I still do a basting stitch. It's always good to check the seams match up before doing the final stitch. 😊

You're welcome! 😊 Glad it was helpful. My way does take a bit longer, but at you get accurate results

You're welcome! 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh 😍

Glad you enjoyed it! When I started writing the video script, I had no idea it would turn into such a long video 😂

TBH I had no idea when I started writing this video script that it would be this long!!! It did take forever. 😂

I almost did trousers, but it was getting so long. Here are some tips to help you out: - The bottom half (below the knee) should be symmetrical, so you can fold the leg in half, and this will be your grainline AND crease line. - For any darts on the back, measure the width (then double it, because it's folded) and add the amount to the centre back of the trouser at the 'waist' (or wherever your pant finishes). Then, blend your new waist point down. Finishing about where the dart does. - If the front has darts, you'll need to add the extra width to the side seam. Let me know if you've got any questions.

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh You are golden!! Thank you so much <3 <3

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video. Are you referring to the numbers I gave to draw the sleeve head? So, the distances coming out from the diagonal straight lines? If so, these numbers give the shape of the sleeve to go around the armhole, so larger bust sizes wouldn't effect them. For larger busts, you'd make the adjustments to the darts and armhole on the front. Often, what may look like a sleeve issue, can actually be an armhole issue. Especially if the underarm is gaping or dipping down too low because the bust is pulling it as it doesn't have enough room. I feel like this is a bit of a vague answer, so if you have any photos of specific issue you want to share, feel free to email me at studio@cliqdpatternkits.com and we can discuss it further 😊

Thanks for your feedback! I'm trying to slow down - I know I'm a fast talker. Your comment inspired me start looking into doing subtitles through TH-cam (so you can change the language). 😊

I'm so sorry! I thought I replied to your comment last week, but it didn't go through. You got it! The facing is seamed the same way as the skirt. So, I had a separate facing for my front and back patterns. 😊 Even though you have 2 back patterns (because you have a centre back [CB] seam & zip), you can stick them together at the CB seam, and just have one pattern - this will save you sewing an extra seam and give you a cleaner finish.

That's a great tip! I'll have to try that.

Thanks for your comment! That's a really interesting way to think about it...should have thought of that for the video 😊

I know, they're so expensive!! But if you are going to be making patterns regularly, I think it's worth the investment. Can you find any second hand ones? Maybe contact a local college and see if they'd sell you an old one? I've never worked on half or quarter scale mannequins, but I would always recommend toiling at full scale anyway. Also, if you are planning on doing a lot of draping, I think you'd want to do it at full scale.

Thank you! So glad you found it useful 😊

That's so lovely to hear, thank you! 🥰

Yes! Circle skirts are a lot more fun and interesting when you can play around with the amount of volume and add it where you want. I tried to keep the tutorial simple, but you could play around with adding pleats/folds to give the skirt more volume too. 😊 My fabric is from Potter & Co. It's 100& linen, heavy weight 9x9.

I'm planning on doing some gathered skirt and dress tutorials soon, so that might be more your thing 😊

Not merely a blah blah blah blah blahing video.

I am a curvy. And your patterns, like everyone else's, don't go up to my baseline - bust line. They all say, based on your measurements take an 18 pattern and FBA to your... I'm probably trying to put in too many curves. I just hate baggy clothing. I just have huge balls out in front that bulge out the sides - anime? Me! RME and I want modest no dipping neck lines. But everything is dipping neck lines. I want it covering up the front of my neck. And tired of hijab. But love the coverage.

The bias is such a pain! But it does sound like you have a bias issue. I would do what you suggested and unpick the seam, let it drop on a mannequin. Then, trim the seam and nearby hem on the mannequin (or put it on your body and ask someone to help you), and then resew the seam and hem.

Love this request! You've given me an excuse to rewatch Bridgerton 😛 I guess you are referring to the really fitted, long sleeve ones? Do they have any gathering or height at the top?

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Good, am glad you like the idea. I think some of them do have gathers, but some don't. I remember really liking Mrs Featherington's sleeves, usually fitted and above her elbow but not short. I guess the ones with gathers might be more comfortable but I would really like to see how the ungathered ones are made. But hopefully you can talk about both.

No worries! Glad my video answered one of your questions. It's crazy nobody mentions this in other circle skirt videos. I am going to do a whole video on bias issues, because they always pop-up. But in the meantime, I'll share another tip. It's always good to check any style lines or darts on the bias too. Not only will they stretch when you sew them, but they can drop too. So, anything on the bias, sew it, put it on a mannequin, then give it a day to move around. Then, adjust it. If I've got a v-neckline, I'll sometimes put the neckline on grain (so my grainline is parralel to the neckline rather than the traditional centre front or back grainline). This is another industry hack to stop the neckline being stretched in production. Hope these tips help! 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you so much for answering my questions. Looking forward to your future videos on bias issues. In regards to the V - neckline, just to make sure I understand, making the V-neck parallel to the straight grainline will make the CF on bias grain right? Also do you tilt the back pattern piece to be at same grainline as the front piece eventhough the back pattern piece may not have a V-neckline?

Glad you found it useful 😊

Thanks for the tip! Yes, it's a very new channel, so still getting my head around things 😊

Glad you enjoyed it! 🥰

Thanks for the tip! I actually edit all the captions in Premiere Pro before I upload the video. And I think because of my Australian accent (and I speak a bit fast) it doesn't pick it up very well, e.g. toile becomes twelve. I'm working on speaking a bit slower and improving my pronunciation. Hopefully I won't have to edit the captions soon, and TH-cam can do it automatically (and then you can turn it off) 🤞

@ Thanks for your response. Social media is complicated!