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Thanks, mate! All best to you!

Hi, mate! This is USSR magnetophon, "Saturn-201". Not particularly high-class, but works well enough. Saturn is from 1977, but your's - "Telefunken Magnetophon 200 M-200" (1965-1967). It is possible that "Saturn" is a copy of "Telefunken". As it is well known, after the Second World War, Russia acquired a lot of innovative technologies directly from Germany, after its collapse and capitulation. They even sometimes took production facilities with the entire factory and people.

@@repair-stuff Ah, thank you for the info. Mine is stuffed away in 2009, did not remember if i tried it. From the foto's i made back then, it looks to be in good state ;-)

This is actually quite complicated, depending on your problem particularrry. My capstan was not bent, so I left it as it is! But straightening such a part is not an easy job. One option is to turn the shaft upside down if the shaft itself is corroded or worn. But the best thing to do is to replace the shaft or the entire capstan. Good luck mate!

@repair-stuff It goes back a few years. I ended up getting shot of it. Was very frustrating. I have been looking at other old machines.

@@chuckmaddison2924 Yes, this problem can be very frustrating, especially on older machines. Hopefully, there are replacement parts for these old machines.

That's true, my friend! Thank you!

Hello! Check out my other video where I disassemble a similar flashlight, maybe it will be useful! :) Video link: th-cam.com/video/Q_5rJ87I5rY/w-d-xo.html

You are very observant! Yes, the small GND plane was intentional, and there is a huge story behind it! Basically there are not many places in Europe to order top quality PCD. Since I found one of the best that offers really fine and precise work, I reread the prices and technical specification forms many times to fit my project needs and save my budget. If I wanted to make this project similar to the NRF kit design, it would cost me more than 1000 eur for 5 PCBs and mainly because of the buried via and via min size. To reduce the price, I decided (with a little help from colleagues) to reduce the GND area and put a propear via in this area, instead of super small buried via. And I have no problems with the microcontroller. And even more, if you look at the same microcontroller (nRF5340) in other package types, the smaller ones don't even have a GND plane. So and this trick saves me about 800 eur! Good luck, mate, with your project!

@@repair-stuff What country are you at? I had pcbway make me one for this 5340, but I just used the pins on the outside of the mcu . Did your project work?

@@scoopof3d I live in Latvia. Personally I would ship from PCBWay, but unfortunately in the company I work for, it is not possible, so my only option is European PCB manufacturers. Yes The board worked great, but soldering it was a big challenge. As you can see in this video I reballed the board to make it work. Currently we are moving from native nRF5340 to nRF5340 chip (similar design to ESP32). It is an easy way to do soldering and debugging.

@@repair-stuff I see. I'm working on a project and need someone to helo with writing code for 5340. Would you be interested for fee? It's a a wireless mic setup over le audio.

@@scoopof3d Unfortunately, I was the PCB engineer who assembled the board and the rest of the electronics (charging, impedance measurement and the rest). At first I did some small software tests, but I am not a knowledgeable enough to be a full programming engineer (I know enough Arduino C, a little assembly language, and I'm learning Python now, but unfortunately I have to defend my PhD next year, which limits my time a lot). However, my colleague is very good in this area. We use the Zephyr programming framework. zephyrproject.org/how-nordic-semiconductors-nrf-connect-sdk-and-zephyr-rtos-works-for-short-range-and-cellular-iot-applications/ However, I must say that I am not really a fan of the operating system, because solving simple tasks here is many times more complicated.

Is it really original, send me a link?

@dl.electric i didnt get it from the internet i got it as a gift directly from germany

Germany countryhuman: Thanks mate! From Latvia countryhuman good luck!

@ Germany countryhuman: 😘😘😘

@@CrownPointeChroma

@@repair-stuff Germany countryhuman: I love you

​@@CrownPointeChroma what do you mean by that? You mean you like my work or my character or what?

Ok, I will check, but I don't know the voltage levels. Is it 1.8V 3.3V 5V?

@dl.electric You will need to check the data sheets for the various chips. There's a possibility that all of those voltages are used somewhere in the design.

@martinnash007 ok, thanks mate! I will try to find the info. If I succeed, I will make a new video

@@foxins1 jā, lūk, tas ir labs jautājums. Es domāju, ka uzreiz nav jābūt siltam. Bet tas kontrolleris maksā pusi no tā diska cenas.

@@JanisKapostins-x7b well, I think it's the motherboard. Nothing else is there to replace.

Nav dārgs - 25E. Man īstenībā patīk. Kaut kad uztaisīšu salīdzinājumu, patīk/nepatīk.

Hi! I am very pleased that you find my content interesting! Thanks for the kind words!

Greetings! If the spring itself is broken, then you can do the following. If the beginning of the spring is broken (the small circle), then the next section of the spring can be folded open and made as a holder. If the spring is broken in the middle, you can try to stretch the spring and then put it back. But such springs can be purchased online or at your local store

@@kriegerdrako Hey! Good luck man! Hope you will successfully replace the batteries! And sometimes the process of fixing something is more 'worth' than the final outcome! 😀

Hello! I see what you mean! Basically, it's a problem with the LED driver. It carries some current even when it's disabled. Basically - in short, you need to replace the driver (or at least look whats wrong with it in some basic level - burned components or so) I'm very busy right now, working with my PhD, so can't help you more, but I also ran into this kind of fault, so, maybe after some time, I can make a video about this! BUT definately not now!

Thanks!

Привет. Одеколоном лучше не пользоваться, так как на печатной плате могут остаться частицы. Я бы рекомендовал протереть спиртом!

Thanks! I hadn't realized that, as in my case, the battery isn't draining too quickly. However, I've encountered a different problem where the battery drains itself even when the LED isn't enabled. I'll need to address this issue and likely make a video about it as well!

No problem, friend! Many reviewers are surprised by how to disassemble this flashlight. In many cases, the biggest surprise is understanding how to even open the head of the flashlight. So, it was my pleasure to help you out! Take care!

Hi, it's a good question, I can't answer it right away, then I need to review the circuit, but in essence this is both a current and voltage generator, with a variable output power, and the internal circuits are also powered from the same transformer. But if you are very interested, here is more information and even the circuit: vinratel.at.ua/publ/biblioteka_diptrace/skhemy/skhemy_blokov_pitanija_tes_7_tes_9_tes_13/3-1-0-125

@@repair-stuff 👍

Абсолютно согласна с тобой! Видно, что у вас есть информация и знания! Однако, согласитесь, это был хороший эксперимент, потому что поначалу я мог понять, сработает ли он вообще. Другой вопрос: найдите драйвер меньшей мощности, который еще не встроен с известным допуском по мощности, который выдает достаточную пиковую мощность для питания XHP90. Это, конечно, надо измерить, но я рад, что вы задумались, это очень важно!

@@repair-stuffспасибо, но хочется собрать xhp110 эксперимент, но одну проблематично не могу найти отражатель и линзы, вообще они такого не выпускает😢

@@Martin-w638 возможно, вы можете начать с корпуса какого-нибудь китайского фонарика, такого как этот: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006904976878.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2c9douQoouQopS&algo_pvid=0d324789-cc18-4119-af4f-40790088f2e1&algo_exp_id=0d324789-cc18-4119-af4f-40790088f2e1-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2149.52%2140.61%21%21%2153.12%2143.56%21%402103868a17240086233642917e9d34%2112000038672774343%21sea%21LV%21728130877%21X&curPageLogUid=r4bvnl81gKl2&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

@@repair-stuffспасибо:) Но большой минус им нужно эффективно охлаждает, если такую корпус с линзы да круто, но быстро перегревает и вышел из строя:(

Hello! Well, I'm not sure I understood your question correctly. But beam shooting works (if that's your question). The beam does not depend on the LED (in this case) but more on the distance between the LED and the lens and the shape of the LED. Since the LEDs are very similar in this case, the beam works the same way.

@@repair-stuff brightness and quality are very different xhp90 is fake color quality of light that comes out It is white mixed with blue makes you look very uncomfortable compared with beautiful 5000K,6500K light from the real XHP70.2 SST40 led is much brighter than chinese XHP90 and XHP70.2 is 2-3 times brighter than the SST40

@be4885 Yes, you are absolutely right about that. Well I tried to order a real XHP70.2 LED but for some reason farnell didn't approve my payment (Or didn't accepted my card). So, right now I'm working on my dissertation, I can't do a good comparison, but once I'm done with my education stuff, I'll get to it! Hopefully, It will be at the end of the summer!

You are very welcome

Hello! You are very welcome! Glad to hear you enjoyed the video! Yes, as far as I have researched, CREE LED manufacturers have released several versions with LED, CREE led XHP35, XHP35.2, XHP50, XHP50.2, XHP70, XHP70.2 and other models, but not XHP90, this is false! www.cree-led.com/products/leds/xlamp/xhp/ I currently only have the Chinese versions with these names, but they are unlikely to match reality (maybe close to it), but certainly not in terms of quality. So I wouldn't have high hopes for your flashlight which was cheaper, in your case! As it's in my case: the flashlights works great for me so far, but one of the flashlight is draining the battery by itself (don't know why). Might need to make a video about this! Good luck with your treasures and let me know how it goes?!

@@repair-stuff I'm pretty sure that we have the same chinese version of the flashlight (xhp 70.2) the only difference I saw is the charging port you had a micro USB mine had a Type C. I got it cheaper because I have vouchers that Ive used, and I saw It on their aliexpress shop that they are selling it from 15-25 USD luckily I got it for a dollar haha! Thank you for the link, yeah there is no cree xhp 90 or 199, 320 etc. Thanks for your vid I find the real deal haha. Anyways I'm using it during cycling @ night brighter than a motorcyle headlight haha. Have a great day!

Which is better, this or the gt10 ?

@@deesmacks4345 Hello! Unfortunately I don't have a GT10 so I can't say for sure, but basically the question is: better for what? For example, the GT10 has a side LED, which is convenient for illuminating the room when the flashlight is off hands. But if you mean the technical parameters, then I have to look at the numbers and make comparison. In general, if the LEDs are similar, then the power consumption will be similar and therefore the brightness. There may be nuances where they differ, like different design details, but overall it's really hard for me to tell. I would say, they are more similar than different

Thank you sir! I guess you're right! However, China makes the XHP90 (face versions) so I included them.

Well, the front part of the flashlight consists of a lens focusing mechanism and an LED. Similar to how a film projector achieves a sharp image with the help of focus, the same happens here. The LED is at such a distance that the image of the LED itself is projected through the lens. It could be changed by slightly (mechanically) moving the led deeper into the lamp frame, so that it is not in focus and the projected image is blurred.

Yes, you're absolutely right, as one person writes before you!

@@repair-stuff my new XHP70 does not go to that SOS stage after the flashing strobe. I don’t need it but wonder if I should be concerned about it.

@@LastTrump7 It could be related to some boat component, possibly a capacitor, but I might look into this in more detail in a video when I have time! Interesting question, thanks!

Hi! Glad you're reaching out to me! If you can afford it, I would recommend replacing all the glass with a screen. You'll save a lot of time, my friend! I did the same for this very reason! It is better to order with a frame so that you don't have to glue the glass in place. In this type of tablet, it is very difficult to replace only the glass itself, since the touch screen is (in a sense) part of the glass. And the screen (LCD) is tightly glued to the glass, there is a special technique to remove the glass from the LCD. I really don't know about the mpen because it was a job for the customer, but if she doesn't complain, I think it works well! In conclusion, if you asked me, I would say change the hole. If anything, to save some money (but not time) you can try to replace only the screen, although I don't know if it's really possible here, because I was replacing the glass with frame and LCD, all toghter!

Hello! Unfortunately, I have not compared the current consumption of all these models. I have the Chinese variants of the XHP50 and XHP70, but from the XHP90 I only have the LED module. I will do a comparison one day as others have asked me this too!

@@repair-stuff ok brother, looking forward to it. Oh and hey you can try a different driver that can output more than 5 amps. Seema like this stock driver is less than 2 amps.

​@@XS1GOLIATH1 I will definitely try to do this comparison! Thank you very much for your help and advice! See you soon :)

@@repair-stuff thankyou brother.

You are absolutely right! In all the forums, it was argued that it is typically a sensor failure... Bu***t.. 😅

Maybe you can buy entire camera body that is sold cheap as "non working" and swap out some of those boards/modules and find which one is faulty. But it may get uneconomical at that point anyway and chances are slim.@@repair-stuff

Thanks for your feedback! It helps to create more content!

Thanks mate, I will try my best!

Yes, of course, for the products I have bought myself, my intention was to make one better than the other! As if it would do me any good! Ha ha ha... People are interesting, not in the best sense! Maybe you will make a "correct" comparison yourself!

​@@repair-stuffIt just looks like they are not focused the same. The die shape on the 70 is focused on the wall yet the 50 is not focused.

@@Leo-gt1bx Hey, mate! Well I didn't spend too much time planning the comparison content! I just took two flashlights and tiredness to compare as closely as possible in a real environment. If you're looking for a more scientific comparison, this is not what I tend to do here! But as you know the flashlights are not the same, so I expected that result would differ! Anyway, thanks for the feedback! Peace!

Hello! I agree that it was easy since I had already unscrewed it before. In principle, it would be necessary to hold the part that moves still and then screw the upper part. I don't remember exactly anymore, but I used large forceps to hold the inner part still.

Hello! If I understand correctly you are replacing the LED and driver on the existing flashlight with the xhp50? And you want to know if you can use the components of the previous driver or the driver itself? In any case, you need to be aware of the voltage level of the LED and also of how much CURRENT and voltage the driver is producing. I have a banch of aliexpress drivers, I will try to make some viode abouth this. But It's a taff time for me at the moment!

@@repair-stuff It is a fake version that uses xhp50 LEDs but the driver has been cut down, it has information written on the driver that the discharge current is 1 ampere. Because of its unique shape, charging port and battery capacity indicator, it was quite difficult for me to replace it. It's not on the electronics sales site. Hopefully the doctor will have a video on power editing for the original driver

@@VigKing ok, I will try to make it happen! :)

Hello! Well I'm not sure you can. You need to be aware of how much current the circuit can provide and how much the LED consumes. And the voltage depends on the type of LED. I don't know exactly the nominal LED of this model. lumen is a unit of light quantity, it is difficult to directly express it in terms of power.

I see no reason that you can't. Find the right driver.