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Please tell me more about your saw and how you fixed the runout.

I get them from penblanks.ca. They work really well and are inexpensive.

I’ve never had an issue with the glue peeling. Industrial super glue, as long as it is cyanocrylite, should work fine. I’ve tried different brands and find I get the best and most consistent results with Glu Boost.

It's working superbly for me. Thanks for checking it out.

Do you sell it?

​@MarioRodriguez-zi1xl I don't sell the guard but I wrote this as a magazine article for Canadian Woodworking Magazine. Search online and you should find the plans.

Hi Andre - I didn't like the position of the factory switches so I designed this switch box that is on magnets to turn the saw on and off. It uses a pair of relays in a control box so that I can run low voltage wiring to the switch box. It's not something that I sell since it requires a fair amount of electrical knowledge and you have to make some changes to the magnetic starter on the K3. DM me on instagram if you want additional information.

@@davidbedrosian1567 thanks David - I will

Thanks for checking it out, Ramon. I try to avoid tilting the blade on my tablesaw since it means I have to remove my favourite zci. 😊 That's what got me thinking about how I could do all of the operations with the PantoRouter. Thanks 🙏🙏

Thanks for watching

My pleasure

Thanks for your compliment, Gaston and also for your excellent question. You are correct that the fit of the dovetails is entirely done by adjusting the width of the pins. You are also correct that changing the height of the template holder changes the width of the pins and thus is used to get a perfect fit. My approach is to pencil in the pins from the tails as I show at about 7:00 into the video. From there, I adjust the template holder height while moving the router up and down against one of the dovetail templates (the router is off at this point) until I get close to the line. I then start making test cuts and refine the height of the template holder until the fit is perfect. I suspect your question is about how I make small adjustments to the height of the template holder. If so, I find the best way is with the template holder micro-adjuster which is sold by PantoRouter. Before I had this, I would mostly eyeball the movement of the template holder and it didn't take many test cuts to get it dialed in. Does this answer your question?

Thank you for taking the time to respond, yes it does but if you ever do another video I would appreciate if you can show it, also do you use the 10 mm bearing for the entire process? Thank you.

@@gaston188 Hi Gaston - I don't recall which bearing I used to rout the pins. Several different bearing sizes may work for the pins - I chose by using the pencil lines transferred from the tails until it looked like I was close to the line. I think it will make more sense once you do some test cuts

Thanks Mark

Thanks Rich and Happy New Year to you as well!

Nice jig , I’ll take the plans

@@baldikenobi Please send me an email at BedrosianWoodworks@gmail.com and I can get you the plans

Thanks Mike!

They are fun to turn and don't take a lot of time. Give it a go!!

Please send me an email at BedrosianWoodworks@gmail.com and I can get you information on ordering the plans or a completed jig. Thanks!!

Please send me an email at BedrosianWoodworks@gmail.com and I can get you information on ordering the plans or a completed jig. Thanks!!

Thanks Eric. I'll send you an email.

Thanks Kevin

Thanks Samuel. Pen turning is lots of fun and uses very little wood. I think you will have a lot of fun.

Hi Brian - the short answer is that you should turn fully dry wood for pens. The reason you read about turning wet wood is because it's much easier to turn but this really only matters when you are turning bowls. Wood shrinks as it dries and it also distorts slightly in shape. You don't want any change in the size or shape of your pen after it's turned. Also, it's difficult to apply finish to wood unless it's dry. Good luck with your turning. I think you will have fun.

Thanks!

Thanks

Thanks Ramon. I've been using the jig for a week or so and it's worked out well.

I really like the diamond wheels since they stay flat and don't change in diameter. I've got a course and extra fine wheel and like that combination

Please send me an email to BedrosianWoodworks@gmail.com and I'll add you to the list for when I complete the plans.

I got it from a local specialty wood supplier- exotic woods in the Toronto area.

Thanks!!

Ah I just saw your other video. .003 seems about what my saw runs too.

@@MatthewSpringer I don't recall if I said this in my other video about the toe-out. Once I got the slider dialed in, I didn't want to mess with it for fear I would take it out of calibration. To set the toe-out, I loosed the bolts holding the cast iron table and shifted it slightly to get that 0.003" or so. It was surprisingly easy to do. Thanks for checking out the video.

Yes, shorter bits may help with wandering, but some pen blanks are long and I need to be able to drill all the way through.

@@davidbedrosian1567, I don't have a wood lathe, I have a 9x20 metal lathe. so I first use a short drill then a longer drill. I guess I should have said that above.

Hi Denise - The jig requires the sliding table to be close to the blade (ideally, directly on the left side of the blade). My understanding is that the sawstop sliding table is an aftermarket item that replaces the left wing of the saw. Depending on how far the table is from the blade, the jig may work. Contact me at BedrosianWoodworks at gmail dot com and we can discuss this further.

I'm glad you liked the video, Jim. Pens are fun to turn and fun to give as gifts. I got the flap sander from stockroom supply. I think they call them mop sanders. Good luck with your turning.

@@davidbedrosian1567 Great, will give a look-see. What grit did you use - 120 maybe? thx, jim

@@jimwheeler6131 I think it was either 120 or 150

Thanks for your comment. I'm just guessing, but the problem may be with the type of paper towel you are using. I've found some that react with the CA glue which causes it to get hot. Try applying the CA to the paper towel and don't apply it to the pen. See if the paper towel gets hot or if it smokes. If so, try a blue shop paper towel to see if that makes a difference.

Hi Jason and thanks for your feedback. I'm not clear on your question so please feel free to ask more. I dry fit the drawer and then measured the width for the bottom and cut it about 1/32" undersize. The depth of the bottom is not critical since it is not trapped in a groove.

@@davidbedrosian1567 thanks so much for replying - The undersizing by 1/32 is exactly what I was curious about - Sorry for my long winded confusing wording lol.

@@jasondarr1238 I'm glad that makes sense. Don't hesitate to reach out with any other questions. If you are on Instagram, you can find a lot more of my content @BedrosianWoodworks

Hi Ron - thanks for your feedback. The number of coats depends on the type of wood. I want to be sure that the grain is completely filled so I can get an even and high gloss finish. Generally, I would say I apply about 8-10 coats of the thin CA and 2 or 3 coats of medium. For sanding after finishing, I probably start with P400 or maybe higher and I power sand to get an even dull finish. This leaves lots of scratches so I move on to higher grits without power sanding along the length of the pen tube. It doesn't take long to remove the scratches and move on to the next grit. I go up to at least P1000 and sometimes higher before buffing. I'm not sure if those really fine grits make much difference so I should experiment to see. It only takes an extra 30 seconds or so per grit. The buffing is where I really get the high gloss. The last wheel has carnuba wax that comes with the Beall system. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Merci Joel

I didn't get any blowout on the outside of the tail boards which is what really counts. That's probably because the outside was up and I could start the cut slowly. I got a small amount of blowout on a few of the tails on the inside but it was minimal. The pins were perfect. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was useful

Thanks Ramon. Your excellent videos were a great help and inspiration. Cheers

Thanks Larry. I'm sure your shop will be awesome when you get it set up. Let me know if you have any questions when setting up the jig.

It's a fabulous item

Thanks Ramon. I appreciate you checking out the video.

Joe - are you using a sliding tablesaw or a cabinet saw?

@@davidbedrosian1567 a sliding table saw

@@joejr.971 hi Joe - adjusting the toe out varies depending on your saw. Higher end models have a built-in mechanism to make minute lateral adjustments to the slider position. My saw doesn't have that so as part of aligning the sliding table height and travel, I also tried to get the toe out close to where I wanted it. I was mostly focusing on getting the sliding table at a constant height so the toe out was secondary. My final toe out adjustments were made by slightly pivoting the position of the cast iron portion of the saw. For me, this was a better approach than trying to laterally adjust the sliding table since I had spent so much time getting it sliding at a constant height and I didn't want to risk changing that. I know that doesn't really tell you how I did it but I hope it gets you started. Are you on Instagram? I've got a number of slider related posts that may interest you. If you search for the tag #bedrosianslidingtablesaw you will find all of my posts.

@@davidbedrosian1567 Thank you so much! I’ll definitely go check out the hashtag, I already follow you on Instagram, but I havn’t searched the tag. Thanks!

Thanks Ramon. The video makes a nice companion to the printed instructions

Thanks Ramon. Here's an unpublished video showing a better way to measure arbour runout with a test indicator th-cam.com/video/G62EJklY_GU/w-d-xo.html

It's hard to say why Lee Valley stops producing certain things. I agree that this is a great little device. I bet you could make something yourself.

@@davidbedrosian1567 Is that Lee Valley plate metal? Steel or aluminum? Kind of looks like a composite material...also, quite thick. maybe 3/8 pr 1/2. I haven't had any luck finding any information on this and would like to try to make something.any info would be so helpful and greatly appreciated.

@@lotustreedesign I think it's anodized aluminum. It's about 3/8" thick.

Hi Robert- yes the jig will fit your saw as long as it has a slot running the length of the sliding table. Email me at BedrosianWoodworks@gmail.com and I can get back to you with pricing and timing.

Did you see my other video on how to set up the jig? This will give you a better idea of what is involved and you will be able to see the process.

Here's a link th-cam.com/video/w7a8EIzDGBU/w-d-xo.html