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There is probably excessive air build up in the shocks. Periodically unscrew the bleeder screw on top of the fork to purge the air out.

@RMAGarage that's what I figured after a bunch of oil sprayed out. Can't quite understand the physics of air somehow building up inside a sealed fork. Either way I definitely should have loosened the top little screw to purge the air.

My generator is gasoline.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the comment.

Glad it was helpful!

If I have a bike on the rack and I want to protect the frame, I just use a soft cloth or something that won't scratch the frame and place it between the arm and frame.

@@RMAGarage Yeah I could use a section of pool noodle or some soft cloth for sure. However I chose to not make that an option, so I attach/retain at the tires. That way I don't have anything that can scuff my frame. As for has anything scrapped my frame, the answer would be no. Also, I could have saved a ton of money if I had went your route.

@@gregchamberlain7554 Glad you were able to make an educated decision based on information presented. That is why I Love TH-cam. Good Info out there to ponder and know before you buy.

@@RMAGarage I can't say that I haven't used You Tube to get other user opinions before. However this wasn't one of those times. When I first saw those type of racks that you reviewed, honestly I had them on the lower ranks of something to consider for moving a bicycle. And there was no initial urgency, since I had a rack for the Specialized I owner at the time. Until I changed bicycles I had a Saris top tube styled rack, and it was only then I switched to a SystemSix that I look closer at how I would haul it around.

Thanks for the info, We will look into that.

Thanks for the comment. We left it on.

Good Idea, Thanks for the comment.

Well.....I plan on keeping mine in the heated garage. My only idea would be to run some RV anti-freeze through the pump prior to storing. Not sure how I would do it but I would start there.

Thanks, RMA Garage.

Good Point, Thanks for the comment.

.85 Liters or 850 ml is what the book says. I would also check the site glass just to make sure.

I believe this is the best fix for this problem. I should have bolted mine. Thanks for the comment.

I only clean mine after a muddy ride. I agree with you as you do not want to clean all the time. More chances of damaging the seals. Thanks for the question.

Can you try again with your questions. My apologies but I do not understand?

Yes.

Good Point. Thanks for the comment.

I just change the oil in mine and used this video for reference as well. Thanks for the comment.

Flashing red means that it is not charging and battery is not connected. You need to check the connections to the battery. Here are what the lights mean: RED LIGHT FLASHING - The red light flashing indicates that the battery charger has AC power available and that the microprocessor is functioning properly. If the red light continues to flash, then either the battery voltage is too low (less than 3 volts) or the output alligator clips or ring terminals are not connected correctly.  RED LIGHT ON STEADY - Whenever the red light is on steady, a battery is connected properly and the charger is charging the battery. The red light will remain on until the charger completes the charging stage.  GREEN LIGHT FLASHING -When the green light is flashing, and the red light is on, the battery is greater than 80% charged and may be removed from the charger and used if necessary. Whenever possible, leave the battery on charge until the green light is solid.  GREEN LIGHT ON STEADY -When the green light stops flashing and burns steady, the charge is complete and the battery can be returned to service if necessary. It can also stay connected to maintain the battery for an indefinite period of time Hop this helps.

Not sure. All the one I found are like mine.

I am not sure what would happened or if it will cause damage. I'm sorry as I do not have any experience with that. I guess I would try and get as much of the oil out buy holding it upside down. You might to check with a suspension guy and maybe he can tell you how to handle it. Sorry, not much help.

I am not an expert on RV wiring, but I can compare your set up to mine. If you would like to email several photos of the battery box to dirtbikedad48@gmail.com I can look at it and see if I can offer any help. If I cannot I will let you know.

@@RMAGarage ooo, let me do that tomorrow. Too dark for photos now. Thanks!

That is a great idea. I am hoping I do not need to repair again, but if I do, I will use your method. Thanks for the comment.

"City" means that you bypass the water tank completely. So if you want to fill the water tank, leave the switch to "Tank Fill".

Full disclosure, the rack was given to me by the manufacurer for a review. I did the review then gave it away to a needy bicycler. I actually got it back from the first person because they did not need it and then gave it away again to another needy biker who had no rack. I just wanted to pass it along. I myself do not need a rack as I have a truck and my wife uses a rack she had had for a few years prior to the one I reviewed.

First, I do not have the rack anymore so I cannot tell you the bolt size but I am fairly positive is is 5/8" because that is what most hitch pin sizes are and that is the size on our car in the video. As for the capacity the directions did not indicate the maximum weight but I would only put 100 pounds total weight on the rack. that would be 50 pounds per bike or one bike if over 50 pounds. I have updated the amazon link in the video description below the video. Just clink on the link and it will take you to Amazon. Hope this helps.

You are so welcome!

Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you were able to design your own setup. This is what makes TH-cam great. Being able to swap Ideas.

Here is the link to there website. (hdmoto.com/moto/shift-levers). It is very important that you buy the billet shifter and not the forged. The forged is softer material and will strip over time. The billet is harder material and will stand up better.

Let me check with my son and I will get back to you.

I got a quick rely of no he does not want to sell it.

Ok thanks for letting me know we will be watching your videos there great

It is an old beaker from a chemistry kit I had when I was younger.

So the two valves are unique to the 260DS and you will want to open and cloase them in the following way. When you are ready to dump the black tank, open the value furthest away from the tank first. Then you will want to open the valve closest to the tank second. When you are done dumping the order of closing is reversed. The value closest to the tank is closed first the the one furthest away is second. The reason for the two values is because the black tank is on the passenger side of the RV and all dump stations will be to the drivers side of the RV. When you look under the RV you will see the black pipe that runs the full width of the RV from passenger side to drivers side. You never want to leave the valve closest to the black tank opened because "effuent" will be stored in the cross over pipe which is a bad for the whole system. Just think of the crossover pipe as a means of tranfer only. Hope this helps.

@@RMAGarage Thanks! I was so confused when he told me to leave that valve closest open because it seemed like a bad idea. I’ve closed it!

Glad it was helpful!

You're Welcome.

I do not believe this is universal. If I remember correctly, this was for predator motors only. You can call OMB Warehouse if you have a different motor (www.ombwarehouse.com). Thanks for the question.

I not sure if I under stand "swept inside". Are you talking about the drain or fill bolt?

250 lbs.

Thanks for the comment.

Glad we can help. Thanks for the comment.

Glad you liked it!

I have not. Maybe I should as well.

So RV Approved means that the manufacturer of the rack has tested it for RV use. If you have ever ridden in a RV, It sorta bounces down the road. With the rack being in the back, it tends to take the abuse of the movement. For this reason, racks need to be over designed with thicker metal and larger welds. The black widow rack it technically not a beefier design so we risk having it break while traveling. I have never gotten any feed back from anyone who has used this rack on an RV so there is no data to support this. We are just going on the word of the manufacturer.

We still have the RV and we have enjoyed it very much. The reason why we made the videos is because we had to fix it and make improvements. Those that I have talked to who recently bought an RV has said that it has been in the shop for small little fixes. You must expect this when you buy an RV. We chose to fix these items ourselves and to make videos to help others. To say our RV is great is true but it still requires some lovin care from time to time.

Need a little more info. When you mean not draining, do you mean standing water in the sink and shower base? If yes, then this did happen to me. In my RV, I have trapless drains, which means that there is no "P" trap. There is a pipe with a plasitic "flap" that opens when the water runs through and then closes. It will be a straight piece of pipe about 7" long and has a larger diameter. Because of food and winterizing fluid, mine sorta glued itself shut. This would be the first thing to look for. You may need to clean it out or get a new one. Let me know how it goes....

@@RMAGarage You were correct. I had 2 of these trapless drains. I used a flexible flat piece of plastic like a snake and they opened right up. Thanks.

You're Welcome.

Looking back at it you are probably right.

Thanks for the comment.

My wife sewed the velco strips into the fabric. I her words, she cut the stiching and opened up the seam and used her sewing maching to sew the velco strip in.