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DIY Misfit "Mechanic" UDX404
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2017
Learn from my mistakes
I can be reached at daveyhouse1@gmail.com
I can be reached at daveyhouse1@gmail.com
Coming this year
Disclaimer:
BE ADVISED: Any public comment left on DIY Misfit "Mechanic" may get a video response from me rather than a written response. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS DO NOT COMMENT!
Or I might not respond at all and ignore you like the wife says I do to her.
I am not responsible for any damage anyone does to equipment or themselves, their pets, their friends, or their friend’s pets, including the neighbors pet from the information contained in the video. If you follow the video and you do stupid shit like I do, to yourself, your equipment, or others it is your fault not the DIY Misfit "Mechanic"! This information is given with the understanding that if you use this information you do so with no liability to the DIY Misfit "Mechanic" or this channel. These videos are for entertainment purposes only! Due to factors beyond the control of the DIY Misfit "Mechanic", it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. The DIY Misfit "Mechanic" assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. The DIY Misfit "Mechanic" recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, and condoms, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of the DIY Misfit "Mechanic", no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the DIY Misfit "Mechanic". Good luck, be safe, and DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!!
(Thank you Mike) The Disgruntled Mechanic
th-cam.com/channels/Q-u93-0e3YTkrc8Lbi87iQ.html
BE ADVISED: Any public comment left on DIY Misfit "Mechanic" may get a video response from me rather than a written response. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS DO NOT COMMENT!
Or I might not respond at all and ignore you like the wife says I do to her.
I am not responsible for any damage anyone does to equipment or themselves, their pets, their friends, or their friend’s pets, including the neighbors pet from the information contained in the video. If you follow the video and you do stupid shit like I do, to yourself, your equipment, or others it is your fault not the DIY Misfit "Mechanic"! This information is given with the understanding that if you use this information you do so with no liability to the DIY Misfit "Mechanic" or this channel. These videos are for entertainment purposes only! Due to factors beyond the control of the DIY Misfit "Mechanic", it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. The DIY Misfit "Mechanic" assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. The DIY Misfit "Mechanic" recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, and condoms, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of the DIY Misfit "Mechanic", no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the DIY Misfit "Mechanic". Good luck, be safe, and DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!!
(Thank you Mike) The Disgruntled Mechanic
th-cam.com/channels/Q-u93-0e3YTkrc8Lbi87iQ.html
มุมมอง: 180
วีดีโอ
Radiator replacement 2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
มุมมอง 7K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Disclaimer: BE ADVISED: Any public comment left on DIY Misfit "Mechanic" may get a video response from me rather than a written response. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS DO NOT COMMENT! Or I might not respond at all and ignore you like the wife says I do to her. I am not responsible for any damage anyone does to equipment or themselves, their pets, their friends, or their friend’s pets, in...
Exhaust Repair on my 2005 Hyundai Sonata
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Disclaimer: BE ADVISED: Any public comment left on DIY Misfit "Mechanic" may get a video response from me rather than a written response. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS DO NOT COMMENT! Or I might not respond at all and ignore you like the wife says I do to her. I am not responsible for any damage anyone does to equipment or themselves, their pets, their friends, or their friend’s pets, in...
Harbor Freight Battery Disconnect installation
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Disclaimer: BE ADVISED: Any public comment left on DIY Misfit "Mechanic" may get a video response from me rather than a written response. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS DO NOT COMMENT! Or I might not respond at all and ignore you like the wife says I do to her. I am not responsible for any damage anyone does to equipment or themselves, their pets, their friends, or their friend’s pets, in...
2 minute auto body repair
มุมมอง 1383 ปีที่แล้ว
No animals were hurt in the making of this video Disclaimer: BE ADVISED: Any public comment left on DIY Misfit "Mechanic" may get a video response from me rather than a written response. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH THIS DO NOT COMMENT! Or I might not respond at all and ignore you like the wife says I do to her. I am not responsible for any damage anyone does to equipment or themselves, thei...
setting zero valve lash the easy way hydraulic lifters
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Converting a LT1 hydraulic lifter to a solid lifter
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wandering steering after ball joint replacement Ford Excursion
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Inner Axle Seals Ford Excursion / f250 4x4 ball joint removal Pt4
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02 excursion / f250 4x4 ball joint removal Pt2
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Pura paja😅
I am confused? If you are only going to mount the kill switch right next to the battery, and not inside the vehicle on the dash, then why do all this, why not just disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect it the next time you want to drive the vehicle?
Very nice video bud. Have you ever messed with 882 heads? After having everything machined down I still can’t get the studs low enough for correct geometry. I’ll have to run a 8in rod just to clear the stud.
is this for a gen V lt1???
@@CSS_Fifty No, Gen 2
@CSS_Fifty although gen5 might be similar, it was an old lifter that I used. It's purpose is only for degreeing a cam, checking piston to valve clearance, or checking rocker geometry. Never run an engine one of these. Hope this helps.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 I’m only doing it to check ptv, thank you!
WOW-- Amazing----
Checking out your channel. I am checking out all the UDX brothers-- UDX-21
@@UDX-21 coming right back to you with a new subscriber
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thank you very much, Citizen Band Of Brothers.
Vroom vrooom stuff I like.
Can you do this method if there is oil already in the lifters? Thanks.
I'm glad you posted this video. I was overcomplicating things. Do you remember what size of flex pipe that you ordered?
@danwilliams4670 RP Remarkable Power, RK7536 Exhaust Flex Pipe 2" x 8" Heavy Duty Stainless Steel 12"OL a.co/d/3tqWffv Just went back to my Amazon orders and found it for ya. Up to 390k miles and it's holding up great
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Wow! You're the man. I appreciate the extra effort. Mine did what yours did but it fell all the way off. Same exact place.
One more question, how did you clean up the cast pipe? On the sides, there are 2 gigantic welds. That thing isn't quite a regular pipe. I was going to use a file but it sure is pretty thick where it joins.
Use the press with the screw on top side of lower control arm instead of bottom of lower control arm. Either way works I guess but if you couldn't raise your vehicle up in the air for clearance of an air impact you would have to use the press with the screw on the top side of the lower control arm. Not saying you did this wrong just pointing out the what ifs if you didn't have a full car/truck lift and only a floor jack to work with. Your vid was good, very instructive.
0:50 “Because it works. That’s why.” GOLD!
When you're working on trucks old enough to drink, that tends to be the way. If it's stupid, but it works, then it ain't stupid.
I'm having trouble understanding what I'm feeling for in the pushrods. I think where I went wrong was feeling for up and down movement to see if both ends were making contact. It looks like you're making a point to only push up on the rod to see if it makes the rocker move, and I'm wondering if by applying very light pressure downward while jiggling it, I was messing myself up by slightly compressing the lifters. For some reason I'm not wrapping my mind around feeling for drag, because it feels like the more I spin the rod the looser it gets. I spun the motor over about 12 rotations and still got play in a rocker, so there has to be something I'm doing wrong in feeling for zero lash.
Yes, I was lifting on the rod to see if the rocker moved, if it did, then I had more adjustment to make. The spinning is something, you've got to get a feel for. You can take up almost all of the travel out of the lifter and it will still spin freely, it's a very lite resistance, until you bottom out and have no where left to go. (something you want to avoid to prevent or you'll burn a valve from the valve not sealing completely during operation) The compressing of the lifter is where you make the preload adjustment after setting zero lash. As noted in the description below the video, set your preload according to the thread pitch of the studs.
AWESOME VID ! Im changing out some leaky intake manifold gaskets on a Ford FE.. The rocker rail/roller rockers need to be removed because the pushrods run through the intake manifold. There is already oil in the motor and in the roller lifters. Can this method still be used on a motor that has already been started ,driven and ran? Can the oil in the roller lifters cause a valve to hang open once this method is used after new gaskets ,rocker rails, pushrods, roller rockers and intake are re installed ?
If you are talking about the FE manufactured from 58 to 76, then no, this method will not work unless the rockers were changed out for adjustable rockers. Make sure to drain your coolant beforehand because there are coolant ports on the intake manifold. When you pull the bolts that hold the rocker shaft in place, there is going to be one on each side that is different. Take note to which hole it came from because it allows oil to flow to the top end. Put it in the wrong hole and the top end gets starved for oil. The shank of the bolt will be a smaller diameter than the rest of the bolts on the same side. Remember, there will be one on each side like this. Also keep all rockers and pushrods in the position that they come out of. They are now married. You will get some antifreeze out of the intake that will get away and flow down into block, but it will sink to the bottom of the oil in the pan and will come out first when draining the oil after repair. use a shop-vac while cleaning, to prevent debris from falling down into block. That intake will be very heavy compared to regular intakes. Good luck on your repair, Dave
Thanks for the info, yes a Ford FE they were changed out to a Performance Quotient shaft mount roller rocker rail set up =@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404
I need to know how to convert them so I can run them in an engine!
Once converted, they are not to be used in that manner. It is for testing only. (read description) If you want run solid lifters, then get a set of solid lifters, a cam designed to run solid lifters with springs to match the cam.
Cant help but hear nothing but snot being sucked up
Thanks for taking all the extra time to make this excellent video! I have to change my G6s radiator as well.
Hope it helps you
Put it thru dash for convenience
The one under my car definitely not leaking but it's smoking from that exact spot.
If more people will use this simple 90 degree technique, they would not have as many problems with their valuetrain as they do. I think there's just been so many videos with people. Pulling out filler gages and all this other stuff. I think they're scared to try it. 0 lash is 0 lash all day long now on the preload. It's kinda to the individual but I would rather get the preload a little loose than I had to get it too tight. If I'm not sure about the technique i'using you can always go back. And Snug them up. But I've been using this technique for years, and I've never had a problem.
Feeler gauges are used if you have solid lifters .
What did u put on there . Sorry novice driver
Sorry haven't been here for a while. It was a flex pipe I bought off of Amazon. I then bought locally a small piece of pipe to fit over the one of the ends. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9JU1EQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I need this man. Mine sounds the same way
This repair can also be done from the ground without removing any tires. I just changed my radiator and fan in about 4hrs time.
I remember My Dad setting Valve Lash while the engines were running.
Many people still do
Fart can delete, nice!!!
Just a quick question, do you also add any length to the measurement to account for preload?? Or is this take that into account?
Disregard, just watched whole video 😂
Ok now, that’s pretty cool. Enjoy and thanks for sharing 🏎
Did you per soak the lifters in oil? Some people say to and others say not to.
To each their own. You can go either way. I did not soak them. I just gave them a quick submerge dip before installing turn. The lifters fill when I prime the system, before cranking. Once you have oil coming through every rocker, you're good. Oil has to go through the lifter to get to the rocker. If you are unable to get oil through some rockers, just rotate the engine a little and try again. At this point I still do not have plugs in the engine, so there is minimum pressure on any moving parts.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 thanks I appreciate it. My son and I are doing this tomorrow.
Don't soak and don't pump-up.
I got a hydraulic lifter Puller and pulled them all first and took them apart and cleaned them first. My girlfriends Nova 1970 hasn't ran in a while so I noticed the lifter not compressing. After I cleaned them and reinstalled them I did this method. Thanks for this video.
A cleaned lifter, is a happy lifter. Doesn't take much to jam them up. A small piece of carbon, and its jammed. Those novas are really bringing the price these days. Wish I had one. Glad it helped, and thanks for stopping by. ✌
You vid was simple. You’ve made this real easy for me.
Thank you, glad it helped. Thanks for watching
That fiero is gonna rip with a stroker motor👍 is it done yet?
Hell no, I ran out of Biden bucks. I did just order a new clutch yesterday for it ($470 poof) custom flywheel a few months ago ($650 poof) Reality gave me an ass kicking on this one, but we'll get there.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 hell yeah , it's gonna be worth it in the end tho 🤙
Nice work
Hello my friend. Amazing video Stay connected. Have a great day 💯💯
Very much appreciate your showing this method. Any idea how I make sure the final preloading turn is 1/2 turn (as opposed to 3/4 or some other amount)? - 1983 GM 366 engine, everything stock.
Great question Go to about 6:30 timestamp in this video th-cam.com/video/E2Ea7aYhUpY/w-d-xo.html Bolt diameter and thread pitch affect how much turn you need. Lifters only have about .060" of hydraulic travel, so you don't want to exceed that
With all due respect just watching you get the feel with those big rubber gloves no way You won't be able to have the right feeling with those big gloves I'm sorry
They are thin nitrile gloves, I can feel everything through them. Although some people might not have sensitive feeling in their fingers and I can see this being a problem. Engine ran great never had a problem with it, but he is moving onto a Merlin lV BBC, and this thing is getting put into the Fiero hopefully next year. Thanks for the comment
Great video thanks man. About to attempt this today
Good luck, thanks for watching
5 bucks for a brass 3/4 T from Lowes! I just replaced mine. And itll never crack again!
I thought about doing that, but there is no barb on the ends to keep hose from slipping if pressure gets too high. So I opted not to do it. She puts a lot of miles on it, and the last thing I want, is her calling me from over 500 miles away with a problem from me cutting a corner. It's just ridiculous with all the plastic these manufactures are using.
Luckily mine had the ridges and I put the original clamps back on. But I understand for sure.
Booger man, The camera operator. 😶🌫️
And this was before covid LOL 😆
These mech engineers today suck.They all need a ballpeen to the skull for thinking up these sort of stupid things. Isn't no real good way to do these short of just removing the axles....and try it without a lift..lol Their other stupid ideas are one piece front rotors on a 4x4...WTH couldn't they just do two piece like they have done on Rangers and Sploders since the get go? I'm still not quite sure if it's intended,but a few of the EB's (I know my '67 is like that still stock 67 drum,forget the yrs of some of the others I have worked on that were the same) I have worked on with the stock drums all around,you could remove the front drums and leave the hub alone. Working on pretty much anything from late 80's up pisses me off to no end.Tell me,WTF does a little OHV and prob the SOHC 4.0 need 2 bolts through the bell into the oil pan for? All the Windsor,335,385,FE,Y-block,etc. engines only needed the ones into the block...they all also had a dust cover on the auto's and you didn't have to remove the starter to get to the torque converter nuts.They need multiple shots to the head from a ballpeen!!! It's a easy goin day when I need to work on my '67,'68,'71 and '76 Broncos,'64 Fairlane 500,'89 Mustang (gutted all but the needed EFI components,N/A 347 480hp). I will not do electrical on anything past '90-93 depending on model.Those engineers are also idiots and need to be fried till dead by that 12v system. Wrenching for 43 of my 50yrs starting with my grandfather who was one of the 1st 25 GM Master Mechanics and father that was a '58-'68 US Army Tank Mechanic and later Heavy Equipment mechanic, just what is that garbage you're putting on assembling the rotor? In all my years I have never lubed the pads and never have had squealing,chattering,etc. brakes. You forgot to put antiseaize on the 2 new caliper bolts.And you don't need a torque wrench on them,I've never used a torque wrench on anything but the engine internals and heads or when I was building engine/power packs at JLG and even then just on some of the G6P engine parts.20ft-lb isn't much,if you tighten it with a wrench about the time it starts hurting your hand it's tight enough....lol
Ohhhh,I forgot to say It looked like your forgot to check that cam mech the E-brake cable is worked by.If they're froze they don't work properly.IF they can't not be freed to work the axle has to be pulled to get the dang thing out,my luck this week on the driver side of a '96 Sploder.Many times just beating on the cam mech (where the 2 top springs go and the shoes slide in the slots) can brake them lose and can be pulled out to be cleaned up.I just put a lil antiseize on the pin that holds the to pieces together. I think all in all it'd be better and less of a PITA to just swap in a 2001? (not sure when exactly they started it) Sploder axle......LOL They have the Ebrake built into the caliper.
Are the push rods supposed to spin after your done
Great question, That depends if you're currently pushing a valve open. If you're not on a lobe of the cam, it should still spin freely with just a little restriction. If it's currently pushing a valve open, then it should have a lot of resistance
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 most of mine spin and only 1-2 on each side dont spin
@@untearly8212 sounds about right, some valves are closing as others are beginning to open. It will never be just one valve at a time, against spring pressure. As soon as it starts applying pressure it will be hard to turn the rods.
Thank you for this video has helped me with a bumper replacement and saved $2000
I'm glad it helped you, congrats on the savings
HA! Love it! :D
Damn, that was 8k miles ago. Cost even more now to fill it. LMAO
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Yeah, I hear that! It's getting stupid out there. $100 barely gets me 3/4 of a tank in my Silverado now. I have to run premium, or else it will knock itself to pieces whenever I tow (Which is pretty frequent). 😬
Do you think this would work with a 2004 mustang 3.9. It has a hydraulic cam, and lifters. I hope so because your technique is sure one of the best I've seen.
If the rockers are a pedestal mount design, the answer is no
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thank you
Spedometer bagus
?
Hey buddy, saw your video and thought this the fix completely rebuilt the front end. 4 Ball joints and all the tie-rods and drag links ect. Took it back apart and cleaned everything. Still same problem memory steering..
That sucks, raise your front and separate the tie rod ends from both sides, now you can check each wheel independently for which side is hanging up on you. That wood be my next step.
I take it you have to remove the intake manifold to do this if you don't have self centering roller rockers?
Guide plates aren't that thick, you can do this from the top with either SA, or NSA rockers. I did from top on one of my boys SBF 5.0 in his Miata.
This is the best way to do it you get lots of interruptions. You dont have to remember where you left off. Just step back up and continue. Its that easy. Once you do it this way, you wont do it any other way. Runs perfect every time.
Lol
What is that part called that you welded?
Exhaust flex pipe
Nearly a whole Benjamin
newbie question - My engine is in the truck, belts and all(SBC 406). Bent a pushrod and spun a rocker arm(and missing another pushrod - dont ask) so going to have to do this. Can't seem to rotate it ccw because the nut just backs off. Does it matter which direction I rotate it?
Rotate the engine clockwise. That's the direction they run. It's also easier to do with the plugs out.