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Intendo quelle due farfalle di gomma presenti sulla corda da tendere

if the blade has too much friction you can slightly unscrew the pivot screw and the opening-closing action will be smoother

I compared this knock-off knife with the original one and I can promise they seem almost identical. the scales are matte, grippy and 3d textured, I can see the fibers. it is definitely micarta. in the field I presume the overall quality and the steel heat treatments of the original Spyderco would be better but for EDC the price difference is not justified in my opinion.

yes, if you don't have the notch the butt end could be an option. but if the rubber on the butt end is too soft the rope of the cocker can cut it. an other (probably better) option is to file a notch in the hard wood or plastic butt using a small round fine file. the file should have a diameter slightly bigger than the rope of the cocker. be patient, work slowly and remove the material evenly and the result will be good looking too.

Option for sure. Thankyou.

you're welcome! I have an older recurve crossbow without the notch as well. I'll do a new content on this "notch improvement" as soon as possible. stay tuned!

Glad you liked it!

maybe my trolley bag is thiker than yours. or I compressed the old clothes in it more than you.

they are different for different noses

@@gianluca666 gracias

I thank you!

yes, you can buy the discs but they are more expensive and you can o can not find all the grits you may need. I made some discs from extra fine grit paper and they work great!

si, il disco di fibra è un po' più aggressivo quindi userei prima quello e poi quello a spazzola per togliere i segni del disco di fibra prima di verniciare il pezzo

disassembly of the knife? sure. I'll do it. stay tuned.

@@gianluca666 thank you

@@emilsberzins5777 you're welcome!

you have to consider that it is a serious risk but yes, you can remove the gurad and put it back on as soon as the disc wears out enough to fit in

no, you don't. the serving string has to be used as is.

old clothes! take a look at my "target video" here: th-cam.com/video/lunaLNh9F2A/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUSZ2lhbmx1Y2E2NjYgdGFyZ2V0

why are you crying?

you can't buy it. I make it for myself and I shared it. you can make one for yourself following the content if you want to.

I totally agree with you. the price difference is huge but the performance difference is very small. I presume the top brands crossbows, having an overall higher quality construction would last longer. that's all in my opinion

I'm sorry. I did it in my most recent contents

I don't know but probably you can ask the shop that sold you the crossbow

si, hai ragione. ho visto che con il filo più corto gira meglio e taglia più o meno lo stesso. grazie del suggerimento

Glad it helped you. thanks!

thank you, I use music to cover some of the background noises. you can zero the speakers if you prefer the silence.

no, non li vendo. ne ho fatto uno per me e lo uso. farlo non è difficile, quello che è difficile è trovare un pezzo di alluminio ben spianato da cui partire. se guardi il video vedrai che è piuttosto semplice in fondo. metti i sottotitoli in italiano e dovrebbe essere perfettamente comprensibile. per le misure ti consiglio due pezzi di alluminio 300x60x25mm. più le barre sono lunghe più pallini puoi fare per ogni colata di piombo.

Ok grazie

I'm glad you like it. thank you my friend!

sure, the company was Simav Napoli but is dead long ago. you can find some of these knives in the Italian flea markets if you want one. that's how I got mine.

Ciao Vincenzo, faccio i video in inglese per raggiungere più persone ma se ti servono info in italiano chiedi pure!

I did not understood your question. can you explain it better? what is "us - 52 control"?

yes, but you have to be light and gentile to avoid scratching the aluminum surface

no, it is not magnetic

Thank you so much 😀

you know... 200 lbs are 200 lbs and I'm not the strongest guy outhere!

thank you Slinger! I'm glad you like it. the difficult, to me, was to find a good, flat piece of alumunum bar, then it was only basic light machinery work.

li faccio in inglese per essere comprensibile a un numero maggiore di persone

you need a press to replace the string or the cables of a compound bow or crossbow. If you have a welder it's quite easy to make one. Look at this other content: th-cam.com/video/aol_NAK_LfA/w-d-xo.html

Go to a local archery shop that has one,or buy a recurve bow or crossbow.Otherwise you’re screwed.

So nice of you. I'm glad it is useful to you. thanks for watching!

thanks for watching

yes, carpet is a good target but this trolley is even better in my opinion due to the convenient wheels.

thanks! I'm glad you like it.

mah, guarda, in realtà le cerniere sono abbastanza fuori dall'area in cui si concentrano i tiri, non ho mai avuto danni alle punte. un'accortezza che conviene avere è quella di togliere i bottoni di metallo dai jeans che metti nel trolley... quelli potrebbero effettivamente danneggiare le punte ma ci vuole un attimo a tagliare via il pezzo di jeans. e per le punte da caccia con le lame credo che l'unica sia il PVC morbido.

@@gianluca666 Sì, io uso questo metodo da molto anni, al posto del trolley uso sacchi di juta o nylon, ma il contenuto è lo stesso. Compro da Rivolta Archery gli stracci industriali compressi sotto vuoto, perché non hanno né cerniere nè bottoni, mi costano un po' di più che usare vecchi vestiti ma tribolo un po' meno nella preparazione del bersaglio. Per le punte da caccia si può usare una "montagnetta" di sabbia, se non deve essere spostata. Io, a volte, ho usato scatoloni di cartone, sempre riempiti di stracci, lasciati aperti nella parte superiore, in modo da poter "trovare" la punta da caccia, svitarla e rimuovere la freccia od il dardo dallo scatolone 😁.

bella l'idea dello scatolone aperto per le punte da caccia Nicola, mi piace!!! grazie dell'idea

@@gianluca666 Di nulla, il problema è che lo scatolone non sopporta molti tiri, e tende anche a sfondarsi sul lato posteriore, per farlo durare un po' di più si può rinforzarlo esternamente con del nastro da pacchi, oppure internamente con una tavoletta di compensato della giusta misura 🙂..

il compensato per me rischia di rovinare le aste delle frecce ma il nastro da pacchi dovrebbe andare molto bene.

no, there is no metal core in the arms. they are ok for me. no need to adjust them and I have a small skull. hot water could work but I did not tried it.

I love them too. really well made and stilysh IMO!

sure! but you need a big drill bit. :)

I bought a few flapper discs but I couldn't use em coz the center wasn't gonna cave in to the backing pad that i fitted on..the backing pad that i have the side that the flapper disc will lie on has like a shallow hollow curve... I was thinking about cutting lines at the center like how you did in the video to the flapper discs you made but I didn't know if it was safe...but now that I've seen your video, I'm going to definitely cut mine...

start making short cuts. then, only if it is still not flexible enough, make them longer and longer. be patient and you'll get the job done! and always use personal protection devices!!!!