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Agreed! Unfortunately these stepped up too fast after the head and only sound incredible- they lost a ton of power in the bottom and midrange

Hey it’s my wife’s car- it really could use a mild high stall converter and maybe 3.55 or 3.73 gears and it would come alive. As it sits you have to shift the auto trans (leave in 1 stay in 2) to get into the powerband. The heads themselves were an incredible upgrade. They have potential to make more hp than we are but they look great and were ready to rock out of the box. Cheap too! If only they made them for mopar 🤣

Thanks!

I got it as a 10 year old stock ultima 120” with nasty piston slap. Had it bored .040 over and inspected everything- all good. Put it back together with ultima pistons, original rods & everything else. Runs awesome now

@@radarsonwheels1 thanks brother. Im thinking about getting a 120. Are they any good?

@@lastmanstanding1767 yeah man it’s a monster and after having it apart and seeing the build quality I’m a fan of the ultima stuff

@@radarsonwheels1 thanks brother. If ya don't mind me asking. What state are you from?

@@lastmanstanding1767PA

Thanks! Too bad the one inch of 1 3/4” pipe that immediately opens up to 2” or so (it was a while ago can’t remember) was terrible for low & midrange performance. The funky side by side step pipes ultima sells were like magic- better than expensive 2-1 pipes. They have better performance all over- the ultima seems very sensitive to exhaust.

You’re welcome! I’ve found that on mine with a super E it just floods really easily. You’d think that a hot motor would make gas into vapor immediately and not wet the plugs but it does. Even cold I don’t give any pump shots until she fires, maybe a little tiny one so it’ll catch. Usually I just turn on the enricher and kick smoothly through and that’s enough to prime and not flood

It’s the ultima cam- I think they use the same one in the 127” motor. These pipes sounded amazing but I switched to the wierd looking ultima side by side shotguns and the bike picked up a ton of low and midrange power & throttle response while keeping all the top end

Yup. I moved it around 7/8” outboard- cut it off and welded in an extension. There’s a spot on the frame where the front left downleg almost touches the stock rocker box so it was ‘dented’ from the factory. I had to heat and hammer that spot to make the ding continue 1/4” higher. It didn’t touch but you could barely fit a piece of paper thru and I was worried it would hit when it was hot

@@radarsonwheels1 oh my!! Thanks for sharing! I was contemplating installing the HD rocker covers and arms in my 120" so that it'll look stock.

@@radarsonwheels1 do you have to use the compression releases all the time?

It’ll turn over a little slow if it’s hot but I mostly use them to avoid wear & tear- it’s running an abused ‘96 OEM starter I bought used with the 5spd and primary. Had an S&S with the electric compression releases in the center of the rocker boxes- these are much simpler to service, which they haven’t needed yet. If I forget to hit them it starts up fine

@@radarsonwheels1 oh okay cool. So what modifications are needed for the S&S automatic ones? I might consider that as well. Brilliant idea!

Thanks Martin!

Nope

@@radarsonwheels1 are you using stock 120 fly wheel, bearings and crank?

Yup. I got the motor used with nasty piston slap too. Took it down to a shortblock but didn’t split the cases. Runout was in spec and other than pistons rings .40 over bore and a couple valve guides that were getting sloppy it was just barely broken in. Came out of a no odometer chopper so milage is ? but it’s a 2010 serial #

Has this engine been reliable?

I plan to buy one just scared of reliability as my bike sees limeter daily

Stock stamped style. It’s a comp cam .507/.510 lift 240°/246° hydraulic flat tappet- pretty mild in the big mill

Gracias amigo! Creo que en Mexico el mismo Dodge se llama Fargo? Y en Canada tombien? El mio esta en un marco que hice a mano. Bastante bajita pero no raspa la calle! Lo siento si mi español es asi-asi y gracias por las buenas palabras

Thanks Shakes yeah it’s hard to beat the harley evo sound- bathtub chamber, bug cam, open pipes

Thanks man! It’s a lot of fun

Thanks man! Will do

22chiwi thanks man!

Thanks The frame is a 1989 2wd dakota but I shortened it about 24” with a long Z cut, boxed it with 3/16” plate back to the rear leaf hanger, and the rear suspension is hand made using dodge xhd six leaf super stock springs, slapper bars, and airbags to set ride height and for load leveling. The rear is an early 70s ramcharger 9.25 axle with a crush sleeve eliminator kit and zj grand cherokee disc brakes for stopping and to retain the axles in case of a c-clip failure. It does not have compressors, just 2 schraeder valves. The cab floor, body/bed mounts and 10” firewall setback are all handmade along with the motor mounts, driveshaft loop, etc. There is an overly detailed build thread on the dodge flathead truck forum of the p15d24 website- search radarsonwheels username

p15-d24.com/topic/47345-512-cid-c-series-on-dakota-chassis-build-thread/

Korie Creson thanks man! It was the first auto trans I ever built but building and installing another actually cost less than buying the forged larger universal joints and driveshaft! I won’t say it was what I wanted to be doing but it was all part of the fun!

@@radarsonwheels1 wow, that's some pricey stuff. I'm still putting parts together but doing a 70 dart and building a 471 stroker with a 6.70 length rod to keep it a 1.320 piston. Hopefully if I do break anything it's my transmission I have a couple of extras.

Korie Creson well the forged joints were pricy but I got the latest trans core for free, swapped my good clutches, converter, fittings & valvebody into it, and let her rip. The gasket & seal set was probably under $100 and I only had around $300 in the broken trans. Of course I built it myself the cost in a built trans is 90% labor

@@radarsonwheels1 cool, do u run a stall converter , If So what rpm? The cam I have & gears requires a 4000 rpm stall. 260-264 @.050 616-620 lift. Gears are 3.91 but I'm thinking if I run 4.30s I can get a lower stall by a few hundred. The cam is for bleeding off cylinder pressure otherwise I'd be running 11.5:1 compression with a 10+ dynamic compression, that's 116 octane & no thanks, For some reason I had this idea of a low 10 second street car. I've been dreaming of having another bad ass mopar since 1999.

Korie Creson kevlar bands, alto red fibers, transgo shift kit, kolene steels. My 512 big block has unported stealth heads and I’m at 10.25:1 cr. Comp hydraulic flat tappet .507 lift 241/247@.050 from memory. So I’m not flowing enough air to use the cubes above 5500 or so. Its a street build. My converter is just a 2400 B&M holeshot that flashes to 3k. 3.21 gear.

I think the difference in the front and back was pretty stark but you’re probably right- I doubt a pan can make all that much vacuum

Well we pulled in 2nd gear and stopped at 5500 before the hp peaked. So we were only looking for improvement in the street driving area, not a report card. We got way more tq down low, removed some nasty dips, and got 20hp more across the board. The rear wheel hp was at 362 and still climbing at 5500. I think I should be in the high 400s at the crank but rear wheel torque is above 525 in most of the operating range which works out well in a 3700 lb street machine

Trying to be a grownup and build for a fun driver instead of high maintenance dragstrip screamer. Flat tappet in 204°s, small tube block hugger headers, 440 source stealth heads, sniper efi. Probably over 500hp with dyno headers. Grocery getter and will hold its own or outgun most N/A modern factory muscle

RTLEE1 Thanks! The front end is basically stock ‘89 2wd dakota but with new moog springs. Got me IFS, rack and pinion, discs. The rear is airbags over leafs with slapper bars. I also made it much lower and also shorter- 104” wheelbase.

@@radarsonwheels1 so u stubbed the front with a Dakota I love the look ! Are the fenders from a later truck 70s truck?? More vids man awesone truck!!

RTLEE1 thanks man there’s a few more of it on my channel here. If you go to the flathead truck section of p15d24 you can see a super deatiled build thread p15-d24.com/topic/47345-512-cid-c-series-on-dakota-chassis-build-thread/page/36/#comments Might have to join the forum to see it? It isn’t exactly front clipped- I used the whole dak frame but sectioned it like 2 feet in the middle and the whole rear suspension was cut off and re-done. It’s boxed too.

@@radarsonwheels1 Awesome thanks!!!

Tía beautiful, whats size rims????

J Russell hey I left my twinstar 6v. It had plenty of power. I bought a multi pack of 6v bulbs because they’re hard to find.

@@radarsonwheels1 bought one recently having wiring issues. Doing away with electric start and going to only kick. Trying to simplify all the wiring lol

J Russell yeah ditch the starter I could kickstart mine with my arm. I have a video of it on here I think

@@radarsonwheels1 gonna start working on it this weekend. Ordered a new coil, rectifier and battery and haven't had the time to mess with it lately

Hahah the pink panther

teamlovell38 nah. I have a buddy that has a mustang dyno so I might get a report card some day but it doesn’t really matter to me. With street tires on it breaks traction at will anywhere under the speed limit, which was my goal. With 1000hp turbo LS motors as the new default hotrod combo this is just a fun street machine. Folks with similar combos seem to get close to 1hp/cid and higher torque. I’d be very happy with 350-400hp/4-500tq at the tires.

Yup. Only went to 5500 and it was still making hp but I only have a street cam in it and want longevity and manners. Plus we pulled in 2nd gear so it wouldn’t kick down at WOT but it was over 525tq off idle and topped out at 365hp at the wheels. Some time I’ll take it to the track and that’ll give the real number. I did get it weighed- 3700 with 51% on the front. I think she’d break into the 12s but it’s a street build so whatever