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Well, I used treated timber for the joints which in hindsight was completely unnecessary. Because treated timber destroys non-galvanized screws/nails I used a mix of galvanized and stainless steel nails. I used galvanized (I hope!) long screws. So the nails were whatever was in the nailgun (framing nails and 2nd fix stuff). So if you're using in non-treated for framing/joints less important I guess. I guess you could make an argument it should be structural screws and nails.

Might be called framing nails actually and structural screws.

Yeah let me add something to the channel. The cladding is cladco roof sheets on the back and sides. Cladco charcoal composite cladding on the front (horizontally). I'm building an actual shed now using the same cladding but stick frame.

I used my nailgun for the ones holding the metal sheets to the SIPS. I used screws for the composite battons to the SIPS. I should probably have used some stronger screws for the composite battens but it's still holding up. Look up structural screws if you're in doubt. I also ensured some of the nails/screws went into the "splices" that connects the SIPS. The splices were timber. I don't think you need to worry about the Osb being strong enough. It's pretty solid.

@@NewcastleMatt thanks

Entirely possible! The edges weren't lining up properly because of the pitch of the roof.

Cheers! It's warmer than my house in winter. I did cut out three ventilation holes on my side of the office as it did get stuffy. No condensation issues before that either as the door has trickle vents and I open/close the door often throughout the day (coffee run to the house). I did it because it needed more ventilation in the summer primarily. It's got a vapour barrier (Dupont, full details below). I run a 600 watt infrared panel heater from 7 in the morning to about 1500 which is enough. Probably not the most efficient heater to be honest as it's ceramic coated and that seems to dull the output (it was cheap). Tyvek Single-Sided Metallised Tape - 75mm x 25m Roll DuPont Tyvek AirGuard Reflective Vapour Barrier Membrane - 50m x 1.5m Roll

@@NewcastleMatt awesome cheers, that's reassuring!

My understanding it's considered a warm roof, there should not be any moisture build up within the roof portion (which is SIPS.). I also have vapour barrier on the inside. The EPDM supposedly lets out moisture build up if there was any but not sure how accurate that is. Net net: based on my research it's fine. If it's not fine I'll have a good excuse to build another one. 🤤

@@NewcastleMatt haha, would you mind pointing me to any research you did find on it? A lot of places have told me EDPD is a no no on the top, but I don't personally see how it's much different to a warm roof.

I watched this guy a lot. youtube.com/@SteveRoofer?si=KjaTC4sXyQ7eUu8J Supersips which is the company the provided the labels have data on SIPS with EPDM. supersips.uk.com/product-info/r_pb_sip150_epdm-u18 I hope they wouldn't have that as a spef option if it was "bad". Now I'm not an expert. Maybe I've done it all wrong but I highly doubt it. Key for me is vapour barrier (the material) applied and taped on the inside and having ventilation (which you'll need because otherwise you'll barbeque yourself).

@@NewcastleMatt thanks for the reply.

If the base frame, resting on the shingles, is not completely flat I think you'll struggle getting them to all align. In theory having a base on shingle (with drainage) and using treated timber could work. I know using shingle as a base is used in the US for shed (and elsewhere ). However they tend to basically create a form (sleepers or timber 3-4 inches high) and fill the whole thing with gravel. That would make it possible to get it flat. You wouldn't want the sips to be in contact with the gravel/shingle as they're not treated. You could build a standard frame of timber of course, just like decking. It would still need to sit on something ofc. Dunno, pros and cons and again I'm not an expert :)

Yepp! Cladco Charcoal on the boards (the composite).

@NewcastleMatt Oh wow thought so, am literally looking at buying the same. For our small project we got on the go at the moment. 👍

Remember to pre drill! I cracked one iirc. Could have been the wood screws I used ofc. Self tapping might be on or smaller screws maybe.

​@NewcastleMatt noted cheers!! Hopefully I can start the cladding in May. When the weather is alot nicer. I think the build looks great for a self DIY Build most people would be very happy with the outcome, however the only thing I think would look better is a continuous cladding board above the 2 doors to give a seamless look. Well done looks awesome.

I think I used my framing nail gun? Seemed to work fine with nails but I guess you can always glue them on too (house wrap/tyvek might complicate things. Nothing stopping you putting battens with glue and nails and then wrap on top. Just nails seem plenty strong to me.

Hi Paul. They're from supersips.uk.com. They were pre-cut to the height and I picked them for that reason (e.g. total height with roof less than. 2.5m). They had them in stock so no custom order required. Keeping them dry before actually building takes some planning btw - plan for that in a good way :) I can definitely recommend them, but the downside was bank transfer was required.

Great thanks for the link and advice I think I’ve found them. this is I think a game changer compared to stick framing and insulating.

Yepp! If you're building an office and you're in the sun and if you have glass doors or windows consider ventilation. I had to drill a couple of 100mm holes which isn't in the videos as it gets too hot. I've got the door open all day (fully or afoot) unless I'm on calls.

No I didn't. I guess that's the thing at the bottom that directs the rain outwards? I didn't even know they existed but in the main there is enough overhang from the roof to stop most of that rain. Not causing any issues for me, guess it's worse if you have a wood foundation or wood cladding that takes damage from water over time?

I used cable trunking or whatever the name is , I forget. Like plastic conduits (rectangular) mounted on the walls. Works fine, quicker install and easy to add more plugs (which I probably will).

@@NewcastleMatt Ha so on top of the plasterboard rather than hidden behind with a traditional timber frame. Thanks

So before I poured the concrete, the ground was prepared with gravel/sand sub base (it's a mix of small and larger pebbles and sand). That was compacted manually and with a little (pretty useless) electric whacker plate. I then laid the plastic damp proof course (thick black plastic). In reality I should have added a fine layer of sand on top of the larger gravel. In theory small rocks can penetrate the DPC and then create a way for the water/moisture to enter the concrete and I guess create wetness isse in the structure. However, after adding the concrete I then put another layer of plastic on top of it to stop any water ingress (I added additional plastic underneath the "battens" I screwed into the concrete base. So, basically the concrete is sandwiched between layers of plastic underneath, and on top (and around the sides). It's probably not perfect, but it should last. If I re-did it, I'd probably go through the effort of ordering the finder sand to start but as I didn't, I didn't quite feel like ordering more stuff. Anyway, hope that helps.

Interesting, it's solid for me.

@@NewcastleMatt I think it was a bad batch but yeah, wasn't impressed. The guys actually picked up new packs and relaid it twice but in the end I got a refund. The clicky poppy floor remains for now though! PS I'm glad it worked for your project!

I suspect it will be a beehive despite my mesh installation which can only be described as amateurish. I found it difficult to attach it in a good way as there is nothing to really attach it to. It's basically laid on top with gravity holding it down, it's probably a job I'll come back to when it's too late....

I think it's a Coleman event shelter?

You can DM me on Twitter @Newcastlematt and we can take it from there !

It's 60cm from the building's walls to the fence. If you have two people putting the panels up you might get around with a bit less say 50cm.

Oh? Do tell :)

Vast majority of builders are co boys. 😅 have you seen new homes they apparently build. This guy is doing it himself and learning some skills also enjoying it too. Your negative comment doesn't help DIY enthusiasts starting out.

Fair play to you, I'm looking to use the corrugated metal sheeting stuff from cladco and was intrigued as to how you would cut it

I bought pieces I didn't have to cut. I really wanted to avoid having to cut it due to the plasticol (?) covering which I guess could melt. I bought a small circular saw with metal blades to cut the metal corner (barge something). I wouldn't say I enjoyed the process. No idea what the best , safest and easiest way is tbh.

It's from roofingsuperstore.co.uk Cladco 34/1000 Box Profile PVC Plastisol Coated 0.7mm Metal Roof Sheet Anthracite - 2300mm.

Cost excluding tools probably around 10-12k GBP. Floorplan externally 2.5x4.8m roughly. Internally each room is roughly 2.3x2.3. I haven't built anything of any size before but keen DIY:er, and watched about 200 hours of TH-cam videos on building stuff :) anyone can do it I reckon.

Mounted with screws basically, and glue. Supposedly you only need glue but....

Can that material be plastered?

Don't know, sorry.

@@munyag766why would you plaster coving ?

@@NewcastleMattI’ve never needed to use screws in light weight coving and I’ve been fitting for some time .! If your ceilings like a roller coaster / not flat I would avoid coving

They came as part of the package, or recommended rather. However there's no need afaik to use them. Normal battens would probably have worked just as well to be honest.

And by package I mean the composite cladding from Cladco.

@@NewcastleMatt good to know, thanks again matt. top effort

Cheers and good luck! Yepp you're completely right, I was naive :) Ping me for any questions on the SIP build!

You have no idea how right you were. Completely missed I had created a moat around the building, made worse by guttering not being installed until THE monster rain! Emergency ditch digging at 8pm in the dark. So yeah, my respect for guttering is very high now :)

It's from Amazon.

Called "The Handy"

Indeed I'm going for conduits (dado rails?) for the cables. I did however batten three out of four internal walls so I could squeeze in 25mm celotex too (apart from the internal separation wall). I'll do a video on that next when the electrician is done !

Cladco composite wall cladding. Really nice stuff and easy to work with. That's the charcoal colour I've got which is a bit darker than RAL7016 anthracite metal wall cladding , fascia and barge flashing (the large corner trim) www.cladcodecking.co.uk/composite-wall-cladding?child_id=278#93=12&gclid=CjwKCAjwzY2bBhB6EiwAPpUpZp_R0cAI3JDyBWtOwzviSTCDrtptiSyyrkbDs6gK31Oj52amOcOffxoCVfEQAvD_BwE

Btw it ends up pretty expensive hence only using it at the front 😔.

Not from the sips company, just general googling lead me to use it. Got it from Amazon. Works quite well but could have gone for a thicker size in retrospect. It didn't form a perfect seal in a couple of places. Ideally I'd want a "foam" type gasket that expands but I couldn't find anything decent. However the EPDM gasket worked well when I was sliding the roof sections on top of the walls. A foam type gasket would have ripped. EPDM on top of the damp proof layer could probably have done with a foam type gasket for sure.

Good job though btw, a lot of work for one person that!

I have no good answer 😂 I just really wanted to do it and be able to control when and stuff. Broke me for days but it was a good experience! I messed up not having absolutely straight timber and where I put the little bridge across for the barrow- it created a 6mm dip in the middle which I paid for later trying to level it all out using leveling compound. It was all manageable. If I did it again I would probably go for a timer base but because I would have to dig quite far down to stay below 2.5m I wasn't sure how well it would cope with the very wet ground (clay). Thanks for the comment!

Thank you Tilly!

Just responding to this so the actual notification goes away 😂