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We have been messing with tension on the wastegate actuator nut and that seemed to make a huge difference in terms of holding boost. A couple weekends ago we did a test day and probably had the wastegate actuator too tight so it bent the wastage arm inside the turbo and was stuck in the open position with no boost. It steadily go worse throughout the day until we had 0 boost and the car could barely go 50mph. This go around we loosened the actuator pushrod nut (likely too much) and it doesn’t hold as much boost as before. Spikes to 23 on the gauge for a split second and then drops off into the 14-15psi range. It is just such a hassle to take it all apart so we are just going to leave it before the last event of the season. We are definitely leaving power on the table but it won’t be any worse than it has been throughout the season.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 I also tightened the rod on the wastegate just because to me it seemed a little loose so I just tightened it enough to not have slack. I haven’t driven the car in years though because we got t boned in the front. I have it all repaired now minus properly attaching the front bumper. I want to set it up more for the track and will definitely focus on cooling and handling more than engine power. I think an awd drift setup that can handle 1000whp would be awesome! If not, I may just go with rwd. I’m going to start with the center diff change to 4:1 and then I’d like a posi rear diff. Or swap to something else that can handle the power better.

Great question, not sure in that…

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 mine does that when I’m a little low on oil.

Engine is tired (compressions test showed this) and the turbo is old and worn out also. Decent amount of play in the turbine too. We run the car wide open throttle pretty much all sessions and we have multiple drivers back to back. Basically we just flog the thing to death out there, it is really a miracle it has lasted this long with how many track miles we have put on the car. The heatsoak problems are big on the K03. You can feel a difference after one lap. We are hoping our new inter cooler modifications can minimize intake temps and heat soak but there is only so much you can do.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 so Maybe a new k03 turbo and a new tune should help Regain all the horsepower lost?

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 my guess is that you have low compression because of the valves which is supposedly the engines most common weak point. Exhaust valve are normally the first to go. Was it going lean?

Yes! We have a engine build in progress for next season. Upgrading to the KO4 turbo, forged rods, and larger injectors. We have a NineLives racing wing that we should have before the last event of this season. A front splitter, more weight reduction, and better brake ducting are also modifications we plan to make over the winter!

Haha it really did!

That’s awesome! What region do you run with? It would be so cool to have two B5s out there together!

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 Great Lakes, usually run at Mid-Ohio and Pitt-race. And yeah these cars are surprisingly low cost and very fun to drive, just rolled over 250k miles at Mid-Ohio a month ago in my 1.8t!

It is always awesome to see more B5s hitting the track! If you have any questions, feel free to email nocoastracing@gmail.com and we will share all our info and solutions that we’ve found!

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 I will certainly be doing that! Thank you!

We have pictures we can send! Email nocoastracing@gmail.com

Thanks, not many of us out there!

no one is sleeping on these, look at the 034 motorsport build, they went quite hard on it, beat gt2rs on laptime

@@unstable-8169were is it?

Thank you for all the work you put in! We couldn't be out there without you guys!!

Email nocoastracing@gmail.com and let me know what car you were driving. I will send over all the clips that I have

187 wheel horsepower so roughly 220hp at the crank. Car is roughly 900lbs lighter with the weight reduction which helps a lot. The car has to have Dyno data to be accurately classed so the power numbers are accurate.

Thanks! While we are constantly trying new things and certainly want to move to a larger sway bar eventually, there are a few reasons... 1) The car is generally very balanced and forgivable with the current setup. There is just enough off throttle oversteer to induce better turn in but not too much to cause a snap oversteer symptom. 2) There aren't really many low cost rear sway bar options out there to play around with; we've found it much easier to adjust rear stiffness with a big box of Eibach Springs. 3) We're weary of picking up the inside rear tire with a bigger bar causing wheel spin and the need for a limited slip diff. 4) With 3 drivers and a possible 4th at times, it's best to have a forgivable, predictable setup that suits everyone. We've spoken with (the few) Audi folks out there running a custom huge rear bar and a limited slip seemed to be essentially to making that setup work. I'm sure that's the faster setup, but the added cost just isn't worth it for what we're doing. Plus, we probably aren't good enough drivers to manage a tail happy car. There is so much time to be gained with more suspension setup (shock valving in particular)...and of course driver mod!! We sent our Bilstein shocks to the dyno and according to Bilstein, our guess work was generally in the hunt.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 very interesting. And good to know! I finally got a dedicated project car (a Miata of course) so I won't do much to my A4, but when I was auto crossing it I always wanted a rear sway bar. But your point about the LSD is interesting and something I haven't seen before. I guess you could always weld it lol. Have you ever brought it to an autocross? I would be really interested to see how it does, I found that due to the natural of autocross and the b5 platform it was challenge to do well as it just want to oversteer A LOT. But I managed to keep up with a friends is300

@@1.8t5spd There's a reason they say "the answer is always miata"!! We've been wanting to try one for years but we can only fit (6'5" driver) in the NC cars which are still pricey. Some have cut the floors out and lowered them in NA/NB cars but seems like too much work for us! We previously ran a 2001 A4 Avant Wagon which was then retubbed into 1998 A4 sedan the after it was totaled at an event. The car wasn't nearly as developed as the current sedan, and it understeered like crazy. We were running a Toyo R888R 200TW tire on that car. The Hoosier R7s really made the sedan feel like a completely different car, and understeer wasn't an issue. The JH motorsports Diff mod helped tons with throttle induced understeer as we were getting on the power on corner exit. We have never autoX the car, and I think it would be tough to after how fun the road courses are with other cars out there. Apparently there are some Porsche 944 LSDs that fit the B5 A4, but as those cars are getting harder to come by and they are pricey... Eventually we'll likely pony up the cash to go that route but for now we're sticking to the open diff.

Because they’re cheap.

We are at the power threshold in current class (NASA TT5) and would get bumped into TT4 (which we can't be remotely competitive in) with more power. We've really prioritized reliability over power. The car usually sees multiple hours of open throttle at events and having a broken car is no fun, so far its been bullet proof... Summer temps in the midwest( 85-100deg F) noticeably kill the power. In early spring/late fall with cooler temps the car really pulls well for what it is. We are currently building an engine with forged rods and a K04 (looking for anywhere from 220-240WHP) and are looking at other tuning options. With some aero and more driver mod the car can maybe hang in TT4, which is where we will land when the build is done. The car has definitely lost power with each year that we dyno it (which allows for more weight reduction in TT5) but its all about a cost effective approach. Have you done any track events with that tune? Would be curious to hear about the reliability. At full throttle from 2500-4000rpm we see 20psi boost but it really falls of quickly.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 I haven’t tracked the car yet. I’m in the process of getting it running again after someone t-boned me and the car sat for a few years. Right before that happened though the car would hold 22psi from 4K to probably 8k, I never tested how high it would go with that tune because the engine is stock. I have a custom Mishimoto radiator and am in the process of converting it to dual smic. When I upgrade the turbo, I’m thinking about going with a GT2871R or maybe even a GT3071R. I watch CO Motorsports channel and they have pushed a stock AEB to 600hp with 42psi of boost. They also have a drag car fwd making 1000hp. I get reliability though and cooling is a must.

@@DustySteel Wow that's pretty crazy the boost holds through that whole range. It is wild what some folks have done with the 1.8t in terms of power. I think we'd blow the thing up the first event out if we made anywhere near that! Heat soak on the turbo is also a pretty big issue for us... with each lap there is less power!

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 the boost was definitely way better then the stock boost wanting to fall off right away, that made it spike really easily. With your consistent runs on a course track, I could definitely see that. I would definitely want to protect everything from heat as much as possible.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 where do you race in the Midwest?

Bilstein AS2 custom coilover with custom upper and lower mounts on all 4 corners. SPC adjustable upper control arms in the front and 034 Motorsports upper control arms in the rear. Stock 29 mm sway bar in front, and stock 15 mm sway bar in the rear. 900lb front spring rate and 1100lb rear spring rate. 3.5 degrees negative camber and 1/8" toe out in the front and 3 degrees of negative camber and 1/16" toe in, in the rear. Powerflex bushings throughout... We just installed the B7 aluminum upright in the front, but have yet to run the car with that change. The setup is very balanced, somewhat forgiving, and predictable... probably not THE fastest setup, but for what we are doing the tire wear is even and the car is easy to drive. The main issue we are chasing currently, is the rear outside suspension is entirely compressing in tight corners and causing a sudden loss of grip, as seen @ 4:15 in the video.

They were great to work with. They created a custom tune for our time trial class specs and it's been super reliable. Over 5,000 track miles on the car with no issues... Not sure about the anti-lag though.

Thanks my friend! And you would think so right!? We have hundreds of laps here between 3 drivers and staying in fourth has always been faster. It’s takes you for a loop because the car feels ans sounds bogged down but that seems to be where all the torque is.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 I’m mainly just talking about slowing down before the turns. If I had a crack at it I’d carry more speed to the turn, downshift while braking and then gas through it all. Just my nickel’s worth of free advice. Just with what I could tell from the video but I’m no expert.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 yeah, I could see that. With how much you braked there I would’ve also downshifted, if you didn’t brake so much there then I could definitely see you keeping it in that gear. Either way it was a great run!!

Sent it to JH Motorsports out of California. They add shims to get the ratio closer to 50/50

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 did you also do the 4:1 center diff mod?

187hp at the wheels...roughly 225 at the crank

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 That's awesome. Especially with a 102.6 in wheelbase. And u were keeping with cars that have big power stock!

The car handles well given what it was designed to do. Some adjustable control arms to crank in negative camber, a much stiffer shock/spring setup, sway bars, and a sticky tire can get you in the hunt. I have personally never had the opportunity to run a 2.7t on track so it would be hard to say. I would think with less weight over the front wheels the car would handle better...hard to tell though.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 With the right setup (in moderation nothing crazy) do you think the b5 1.8t would be a good candidate for canyon carving or hitting up some back roads? At least in ur estimation as I haven't started modifying my car let alone hit the track with it.

@@jamilahmed979 Find a sanctioning body and start with HPDE (High Performance Driving Event). If you are in the United States, NASA (National Auto Sport Association) and SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) are great places to begin. You can drive the car to its limits without the worry of wrapping the thing around a tree or hurting yourself or someone else. Plus, these programs aim to improve you as a driver to eventually compete wheel to wheel or in time trials. Otherwise, I'm sure there is some sort of motorsports body/track that you can run with near you.

@@nocoastmotorsports9903 Thanks that's great advice. I live in Buffalo, NY. There's no tracks in the Buffalo area but there tracks not too far away. But yeah I'll deff look into that. After all the best way to learn is hands on from a professional. Maybe I see u one day at the track ✌️

@@jamilahmed979 you mention that you have a B5 1.8T, it makes a huge difference in handling depending on if you have a Quattro or not.

You and Randy are doing an incredible job with NASA Central! We are so lucky to be able to run with such a great organization. Can’t wait to see NASA CR continue to grow! Best drivers, camaraderie, and management in the country! See you next year!