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starsense doesnt seem to work on my s22ultra. will let you know if it ever starts working. Of course the GPS and compass need to be pre-calibrated on the phone for anything to work. Cool thanks for that demo.

Thanks! The Accuvue/TriAdapter is in my cart, and I'll view the rest of the video when it arrives. From what I can tell, the adapter will make a big difference to my feeble attempts. It seems that I'll need eyepiece cups to get the best from the setup, and I don't think my telescope came with any. [I've attempted virtually nothing since only achieving "SmartPhone droop", but now I have a much better tripod.] Can you recommend any rubber eyepiece cups, or write about how to choose them?

I was considering getting a 8" dobsonian scope. Where can I get a reasonably priced one now? Thanks.

Friends, these fans work so much better if you build a flange. The standalone fan will have a tendency to create vortices such that it just recirculates the same air through the fan, creating a loop that's mostly just turbulence. A flange, eliminates this.

you may not have to adjust the red dot that much once the scope is collimated.

They are gone. Out of business.

This was the most interesting documentary on the Bird Jones Telescope. The editing wasn't bad at all. It was perfect along with the story. Thank you for taking time to educate us all. One hour, I enjoyed, totally worth it. I wish you perfect health, wealth and time, to give us more. I can see, this was a massive project. You're the only person to explain the telescope I have, the Celestron Starsense Explorer LT127 AZ. And give us the full history. accurately. From the Caribbean Isles of Trinidad and Tobago, just off Venezuela, I want to thank you personally.

Good afternoon young fella. I was wondering if you could email me back the size of eyepiece you used to fill the Space station also I have an 8 inch apertura telescope. would like to take pictures through one of your videos stated you needed 250 magnification what piece millimeter do you use? Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work.

Great video, but at 18.40 it’s covered in specs and not that clean.

nowadays bird jones are complete trash compared to many other better options.

I support the Meade Too movement

Gee, will my 102mm Meade refractor become a valuable collector's item?

Well worth the watch and catches some critical details that are missing from some other supposedly reputable sites and organisations. Thanks for going to the trouble of making and posting this video for the benefit of all.

Great video, well done. Very engaging presentation. This post-conditioning of the image reminded me a bit of NASA COSTAR which fixed the spherical aberration in the Hubble Space Telescope

You missed a $1 solution. Many times in EQ6-Pro (Atlas EQ) mounts and similar ones, an inductor L 1, 2, or another number simply burns, which only filters noise to the motherboard power supply. You can replace it with a micro ferrite filter and a 4.7nF capacitor shunted to ground. That alone will fix 95% of Orion, Skywatcher, Synta motherboards of the EQ6 Pro, Atlas or similar.

Thank you

And what about the ubiquitous 114-1000 mm "Tanzutsu" as they were marketed here in Italy at least? Seems to me the same optical scheme. It was my first telescope. Quite a lot of chromatic aberration for a reflector if you ask me, but little coma indeed. Huge "focus breathing", the actual focal length would change depending on the use of extension tubes on the focuser. The real deal breaker however was the "reflex" finder scope, basically unusable.

19:45 this is a misconception. The focal length of a Cassegrain is way longer than twice the physical length of the tube. This is due to the secondary being a convex mirror. If it were flat, it would need to be (more than) half a diameter wide.

Great video from a passionate youtuber!

If there are three set screws, make three marking lines, not four. Then adjust the screw that aligns with the error on the corresponding line.

Thank you for a very interesting video. I owned the 114mm version of the Powerseeker. The Celestron 114 GT. I bought it from a guy who had it in his basement for 12 years and the collimation was terrible. I finally found a video on how to collimate it (no fun) but after collimation, it was "ok".

Have you tried the 68 degree 6mm?

Anyone know where I can get a user manual for an Observer 114? I've not used a telescope since the early 1970's, bought this used with no manual assuming I could find one online have had no luck. TYA.

Great video. Thanks 👍🏼

Ugh car noise.

Thank You

I did this 30 some years ago while building a dobsonian mount. Used a record I didn’t like.

Nice!

The finderscope in my telescope shows images upside down. What should I do to it because it creates a problem sometimes for me to see through it.

What was the consensus on which way the little fan should be mounted? I just bought one for my brand new 10" goto truss dob. So does the fan get installed with the Air pointing TO the mirror, or Air pointing AWAY from the mirror? Thanks! Love your videos!

Cool video 😊 How did you track it so well?

Yeah, though I really like how you included your mistakes, I think I am just going to spray paint my tube! Great video regardless!

This astrojunky just found a new dealer. Thanks for the wonderful conent

My Zhumell has the same issue, great video!

Just got the GSO duel sped kit so hopefully it will give some fine slow focus image for my Celeste on 120mm refractor.

25 years ago, at of all places Big Lots, I came across a short tube Tasco on clearance for $50 or so. I impulse bought it only to find it was anything but wide field. I grew to hate it and couldn't get rid of it fast enough. It was the exact Tasco in your video. To my astonishment, someone in the Northeast US quickly bought it for what I paid plus shipping, which was almost as much. Maybe they knew something I didn't.

A big improvement you can make to the primary mirror cell is get rid of the clips that impinge on the front of the mirror, by using silicon adhesive you can get at any hardware store, and putting it on every contact point of the cell of the mirror. Including the clip attachment pillars, to hold the mirror. Let it cure for a couple of days and it will hold the mirror securely for the rest of the time you have the mirror in the cell. Silicon is easily cut out if you need to re-coat the mirror eventually. But eliminates the overhang of the stupid clips that caused a fraction, and can scratch the outer edge of the mirror. I have used this method on mirrors up to a 12 1/2 inch full thickness mirror that must’ve weighed 15 pounds for years. It will easily expand and contract with both the mirror and the middle of the cell, and not pinch your optics. Even experimented with a 12 inch blank in an old university optics cell, which I silicon Place then hung upside down for a full year secured only by the silicon . Held the blank securely all that time as an experiment.

Wonderful. Which scope was used?

Only 1 comment: About your crack about who makes the "big bucks". I don't know their business model, but from what you are saying, I don't believe that you do either. Execs don't always make "big bucks". That is especially true if they were the company owners, either incorporated or not. Depending on the structure of the company, it is possible that they lost their homes and all their possessions either before or after the shutdown. As I said, I don't know, but from what you said in this post, I doubt that you know better either. Think about that.

Are you planning to do a video on how to improve the 127 power seeker ? I have one and like to try to make work.