วีดีโอ

@@wildoutaussie2228 I loved driving it while I had it, an absolute tank as you say!

I did not have any overheating issues and drove it with the restricted exhaust flow for about an hour (I had to transport the car) before troubleshooting. It was probably 90* F outside too, so if it was going to overheat, it would have. The main issue was that the engine could not push air through the exhaust at high rpm, so would just kind of stop revving eventually. As far as cooling goes, definitely check with the US based Facebook group. They really know their stuff and can help troubleshoot almost anything.

No, it did not. The only exhaust related light was the catalytic converter overheat light, and it only turned on while it was disconnected. In this video I am driving with the catalytic converter still attached, though the internals have been removed, and the light did not turn on.

Yeah I learned this later when I replaced the motor mounts with the SerialNINE poly units. Good tip, the bottom bolts are easier to access since you're in there anyway!

Yes, I shaved the stock seven star badge and replaced it with 02-05 Impreza lettering. It was something I thought would both be retro and futuristic when I thought of it in 2018 or so. And look at OEMs now, even Lexus is spelling their name out on the back of cars. Fashion is a cycle!

THANK YOU! I thought this was the funniest bit of content I've ever made!

@@modushausa No problem

Oh for sure! I was really surprised by the amount of English support for this car as I troubleshooted the exhaust issue. Props to the community behind these cars

I've always compared it to a mk1 golf but the fiat turbo ie is way more spot on.

except it starts and the lights all work

Great car, super fun. love the info on your channel too!

coming soon!

@@Jynxhat yes! Let’s go!

Hey Joe, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I do not run a business doing this, it's just my hobby. So you're right, I do omit how to push up the motor, but I put a jack with a 2x4 on it and lift at the front of the oil pan. Just put it right on the bottom of the oil pan and lift. This is why we undo the motor mounts, so the engine will lift free. Once you put the oil pan back on, get all of the front bolts that you can reach snugged up and you can lift from the front of the oil pan again. I point right at the spot you can lay a 2x4 across the bottom front of the oil pan at 24:17 in the video, where the bottom of the pan starts to curve upwards. You can support the weight of the engine on the oil pan, just not the weight of the whole car, which is why we're in this problem to begin with!

I appreciate the feedback, I am definitely working to improve the quality of my work and sharing it with everyone! Part numbers are in the description, I'll be sure to mention that in future videos. Jacking up the front of the oil pan is something I glossed over. I don't remove the engine mounts, just undo the top nuts so the engine will clear the subframe. Removing the engine mounts completely involves removing the steering rack and lowering the subframe as well as lifting the motor. It is NOT a fun job, but one I've done twice. And yes, I don't mention some torque specs. As a rule, I highly recommend anyone working on their own car get a copy of the Factory Service Manual which usually lists torque specs. I don't know if the 10mm's on the bottom of the pan have a torque spec, you won't be getting a torque wrench on those rear bolts anyway, so I recommend "reasonably tight". I elaborate (ramble is more appropriate) on torque specs and feeling it for 10mm bolts in the middle of the video.

Pick-up tube/strainer: 15104-46070 This is in the description. The tube and screen come as one part.

Yeah I mention that once you jack up the oil pan, refer to my other comment regarding how to do that. Those screws are really gnarly to get out, and really there wasn't a good method besides what I state in the video, which is to use a combination of a ratcheting 10mm wrench, the smallest socket wrench that you have, and your fingers. It took me probably 30 minutes to get them all out. Putting them back on was the same rodeo, lift the engine by jacking from the front now straightened pan, get behind the subframe and try your patience at finding each hole and threading each one back in. This took me maybe 45 minutes? I suggest getting something to prop your head up, I used a box of shop rags. After 10 minutes your neck muscles will want to give out.

The jack stands that it's on in the garage are good quality 3 ton rated, and they are supporting the pinch welds on each corner of the frame. This is a pretty common jack point and holding point for Toyotas in general, as they have stout pinch welds that are not long enough to bend like you see on some other Japanese and Euro cars. As far as when I was initially jacking the car, well, that's why we find ourselves in this situation! Definitely better to double check your positioning when lifting. To be clear, that center jack point on the subframe is the recommended jack point in the Factory Service Manual for the front end of the car. My mistake was that I was not a seated on it properly, resulting in a quick trip to the scrapyard for the oil pickup tube and a nose job for the oil pan!

It's a long road from idea to reality. An update coming on this very soon!

Thanks! I dropped a comment on the main video to help people find this one. I appreciate the support, more to come soon.

@@modushausa Great idea, I'm certain that I'm not the only one liking these 90's wings, no matter what car it'll be on.

Thanks! I will be posting updates on attempt #2, I think I have a solid plan to get it this time.