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It should flash an error code of some sort, I think they're the same as the MF10 Forza (there's a service manual online somewhere) to guide you in the right direction. If nothing works you can always convert it to a normal variomatic with either original parts or the Malossi Multivar. I've written down what parts you need in a reply to 1 of the comments, it's fairly easy.

Amazin it runs at all right ;) It's a Uno Turbo cluster in a Uno 45, which has no turbo, and no sender/sensor for oil pressure/temp. Just bought it for the rev counter and it was cheap.

Yep

A cheap pump from Amazon/China, search for "manual pump 2.5mpa" and it should pop up or at least point you in the right direction.

Exhaust goes rengdengdengdeng

Gracias :)

Mostly from the JATO board, there's a lot of good info there.

Yep, just try it, worst case you learn something :-)

@@gokwokgokwok yeah I will see

I guess the old saying is true, Germans dont have a sense of humour :)

I'm glad you like the scooter and the video :-)

Yeah, this is the non violent driveby ;) Thanks for the compliment, I've since sold it and it ended up with @NurburgkingE30

Tank kommt irgendwo von marktplaats.nl, es war ein gebrauchtes Stako, mehr als 10 jahre alt. Atiker hat eines neues tank (Atk21.TS01.D200.010), aber niemand hat es auf lager.

@@gokwokgokwok danke für deine Antwort

That would be weird, because as far as I can find there's no S-matic error code that starts with 7, are you sure it's not 6 or 8 blinks?

Theoretically based on the size of the turbo: 40-50lbs or so. It's been sitting in the backyard for ages, waiting for me to create time to work on it again.

Yes, it will contain a battery pack, because the environment is very important these days. And yes, it was tested offroad, did you not see all the leaves?

no, that sounds like effort.

that is very bad english, you mean exhausting port

Yes, a great one. Can check my scooter test ride videos. Drop by. :)

MBX80 is inderdaad leuk, ik heb zelf in de brommertijd een NSR gehad met MTX80R blok. Originele cilinder op laten boren naar 55mm (98cc) en iets bij laten werken, kop af laten draaien met een mooie squish, tecno uitlaat, ontsteking idioot vervroegd, grotere radiateur en een 24mm mikuni. Leverde 16pk op en een mooi gespreide vermogensafgifte zonder veel toeren te draaien (max 9-10K ofzo)

No, Italian electronics :p

​@@gokwokgokwokRottami della Fiat😂😂

@@gokwokgokwok 😅

@@sigsauer8386Italian cars are ultimate , cant compare with other specially german shitboxes its like compare Beretta with sigsauer , its redicules

Definieer moeilijk ;) Tegenover de E30 heb je op de meeste plekken meer ruimte, alleen het uitlaatspruitstuk aan de bestuurderskant is een drama om te maken (vanwege de stuurkolom) en de carterpan heb ik zelf moeten maken (al zijn er ook 1UZ carterpannen met de onderste pan aan de achterkant, maar die zijn niet altijd makkelijk te vinden) De versnellingsbak is een GS6-37DZ van een E46 320D (facelift) met een PMC vliegwiel. Je kunt ook voor de GS6-53DZ gaan van een 330D ,die kan meer koppel aan voor het geval je er ooit een compressor/turbo op wil schroeven. Motorsteunen maken valt wel mee, zorg dat je het midden van het originele blok ergens markeert mbv een malletje (tip: gebruik de bout van de krukaspoelie), ondersteun het, lijn daarna je versnellingsbak uit op de aandrijfas en begin met het maken van motorsteunen.

@@gokwokgokwok ahhh excuses voor de onduideljkheid, bedoelde het passen ja, ik heb dat weleens eerder gehoord over die uitlaatspruitstuk laten passen, custom zou toch wel het beste zijn ja klopt, (tegenwoordig kan je voor 600-800 een carterpan halen voor een e36/1uz swap, zelfde geldt voor de motorsteunen. Je hebt daarbij neem ik aan ook een sterkere aandrijfas/assen van een 328 of zoiets dergelijks gemonteerd??

De basis was een 325i, daar zijn het diff en de aandrijfassen ook van. Dat heeft geen problemen gegeven, maar eerlijkheidshalve heb ik er maar 2-3000km mee gereden en staat ie sinds begin 2020 alweer in de garage te niksen omdat ik te lui ben om m weer in elkaar te zetten.....

@@gokwokgokwok zou je hem ooit willen verkopen denk je?

Ja ;)

Thank you, it makes me happy if I can help somebody with the video

I have to add my forza is S-matic

Did you try the initialization procedure from the video?

Remove the front pulley as it needs re-timing and do reset it

Am from ghana. Fix the amp sensor in the engine well. That is the cause of the fixed gear when riding

Well, it's very, very easy actually: Some ebay headers, 2.25" stainless exhaust with X-pipe, 2 resonators, a BMW E9x 335i muffler and a Megasquirt 3 for flatshift/launch control. Easy right? :p

Hehe, thank you, some of it might have been a bit of luck as well ;)

Except for the whites, they're too lazy to work.

Yes, greater western china region

I think so too!

Doesn't work with shorts unfortunately

Dont worry, we knew what we were doing

That cylinder was the only reliable part

But not as fast :(

It suits me

Very

How much did you drive in those 4 months ?

Ach ja, ff snel een proefritje met het kenteken van een andere motor enzo ;)

As far as I know the vvti has a much better stock tune than the non-vvti 1uz, so it's probably not that beneficial unless you're having issues with the immobilizer or want to get rid of or tune the dbw throttle.

Thank you, it's inspired by your outstanding CDH

It needs spark, fuel, compression and air to run. Air will be ok unless there's a few mice in your air filter. Spark can easily be checked when you remove the spark plug, if it's old replace it anyway. Compression you need a meter to properly check it, but anything over 7-8 bar with throttle fully open it should be able to run. Fuel can be checked relatively easy, if you take out the air filter and inject some brake cleaner directly into the throttle and it sputters or runs a bit it's a fuel issue. I think the fuel pump sometimes breaks on these.

I had to go over some wiring diagrams, it's connected to the negative side of the ignition coil, depending on which car you have it *might* be a green or green-black wire and the one going into the car might be light blue. But it's best to measure yourself.

Change the belt, which is pretty much the same as any other scooter, and redo the initialization procedure. If your pulleys are too far gone you have the choice of either replacing them (which is very expensive) or you can install a few parts from the NSS250X Forza (and/or a Malossi Multivar) and convert it to a normal variomatic, which is what I did in the end. I only changed the front pulleys and it solved the issue, fuel consumption hasnt suffered too much, but there's no way to have both very low rpm cruising and sport mode. Please keep in mind that my Forza has a pretty high mileage, probably endured a lot of highway driving and had a very noticeable ridge in the front and rear pulleys (2mm at least) All the actions I took, incl putting the pulleys in the lathe, did improve the situation slightly. In the end the skipping/rpm jumping issue only occured above 110kmh whereas in the beginning it started happening from about 80kmh, but I figured it would lead to very high wear of the belt. If I have some time after christmas I'll make another video explaining what I did with Honda part numbers.

@@gokwokgokwok thanks so much. Can I change just the variator rollers too?

After you converted it to the malossi (or non S-matic) variomatic, yes, it's a completely normal variomatic that you can tune yourself. In reality: the S-matic works better and gives you the best of 2 worlds, but repairing it is just extremely expensive. And at that point the normal variomatic is a good alternative to keep it running.

@@gokwokgokwok Thanks for your constant response. What's involve in converting from S-matric to Malossi? Can you kindly show me. Thanks

You need the following parts, depending on whether you want to use the original variomatic or the multivar (keep in mind this is for the MF08 version); I used www.cmsnl.com/honda-nss250x-forza-2007-7-european-direct-sales_model19545/partslist/E__1200.html to search the drawings. Always needed: 1x 22011-KAB-000 Piece slide set 1x 22131-KSV-J20 Plate ramp 1x 22133-KSV-J20 Collar 22x30x29.9 1x 90501-MG5-670 Wash plain 18mm 1x 94030-162-00 Nut HEX 16mm Stock variomatic: 1x 22102-KSV-J10 Face drive 1x 22104-KSV-J20 Boss B drive face 1x 22123-KFG-000 Roller set weight 1x 22130-KSV-J22 Face comp set movab OR 1x 22130-KSV-J21 Face comp set movab (older version, if J22 is not available) Malossi multivar: 1x M.5114261 Malossi Multivar 2000 Forza X 250 MF08 -2007 1x M.6113523B Malossi Ventilvar 2000 SH300 / NSS300 (requires a small modification on a lathe) OR 1x 22102-KSV-J10 Face drive Optional: 1x 19225-KSV-J10 O-ring waterpump Changing it is relatively straightforward, but you need to remove the waterpump to get all the S-matic parts out. The rear driven unit is different as well between the S-matic and normal version, but it's not necesary to change it unless it's too worn, you can try the Polini 243.072 torque spring instead of the original one to see which you like better. I used techpulley sliders on my Forza, but I forgot the weight, so you'll have to play around a bit. Keep in mind that your dashboard will display the "F" at all times after doing this, you'll need to disconnect the S-matic ECU behind the left rear panel to get rid of it, but your fuel consumption gauge will no longer work (might be able to rewire it, but I didnt bother)

Thank you

Thanks, it's a bastuck E36 M3 muffler with an X-pipe and Simons resonator, 2x2.5" all the way. It does sound pretty good, civilized enough, but very much like a V8.

It's an OMP navigator footrest (OMPOA/1866) So it's actually real and not a plushy floor mat ;)

@@gokwokgokwok oh man I'm getting me some. I've been trying to make a set and they look aweful.

Depending on the size of the human: sure, why not ?

You mean reset the ECU of the Forza ?

​@gokwokgokwok Yes. How do you do that please? I am getting the flashing F error light. Please tell me

@@gokwokgokwok yes please how