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For me the light DID still come on with the foot break, because it is a different switch. If neither the foot nor hand break turn the light on for you, it's more likely that the bulb went bad than both of your switches going at the same time. Short the handbreak switch and see if the light comes on. If it does, both the switches are bad, if it doesn't, either the bulb is bad or perhaps a fuse is blown. Hope this helps!

@@gumbyrocker thank you

Glad to hear it man, Thank you!

It's only a 10 bucks, but anything I can fix instead of buy is worth it to me 🙂 Glad this helped!

Unfortunately that's beyond my expertise, I was really just cleaning it out and refinishing it. I would maybe look for a serial number on the motor and go from there?

Glad it helped my friend, and no, my daughter was painting Me black and blue 😂

Excellent! So glad it helped!

Sure, I could have gotten two for 10 bucks and had a backup too, but instead I took the time to troubleshoot the problem and find a solution. I'd rather spend an evening learning something new and fixing something than buying a part. That's just me though

Glad it helped you! I am very surprised by how much this seems to have helped for such a tiny part.

Thanks!

Pinned this so that maybe people can save themselves the trouble of rebuilding it 😁

It works thanks a lot

Thank you! Glad it helped!

Glad to have helped!

Well done! Not much money I'm afraid haha, for me it's just satisfying to have fixed something rather than replaced it, hope you feel the same!

no, you did because I was going to take it to the motorcycle shop you encourage me to try to fix it myself. And as you well know they are not cheap to fix anything. thank you again.

Ah, then you really did save yourself! I'm so glad I had that effect!!

Love to hear that! Stay safe.

After you worked on it or before? It sounds like perhaps while you were reassembling the switch you messed with the mechanism under the metal cover. Possible?

When you install it, the brake lever is alway pressing the button, so the switch is "disconnected". When you BRAKE the switch returns to its resting position and button is no longer pressed, and so the switch circuit is "connected" causing the brake light activates. Said otherwise, when you are testing the fix, make sure you fully install the switch in a way tha the switch button is always pressed by the brake lever

Yea, they're not expensive, I just like to fix anything that I can!

So glad to hear that! You stay safe out there as well bud!

Excellent!

Nice job! Love to hear it!

I did show putting dielectric grease on the contacts, and though I didn't show it, I also put it on the push connectors before securing them. Thank you though!

You're very welcome!

Haha, I hope that's not all you got from the video! That's what happens when you have a 5 year daughter 🤣

Thank you! I didn't talk because at the time I was trying to emulate the larger restoration channels that silently did these incredible restorations. Since then I've realized that's not really where I want to take this, so I have a couple more filmed but not edited with no talking, but after that they'll have "normal" commentary either voiced over or live during filming.

Hah, thank you, and you're welcome, glad to share!

Awesome to hear! Glad I could help you! Good to know it's something of a universal part too, I'll have to update the description/title. Cheers!

In that case I would start at the brake light. Most likely the bulb is bad so check whether it works and ensure the connections in the tail light housing are secure while you've got it open. You can test the bulb with a 9V battery and two small lengths of wire. If replacing the bulb with a working one doesn't do the trick, work your way forward checking connections until you find the issue. You can probably find the wiring diagrams for your bike and year online if you don't already have one, it will be very helpful. It's unlikely that both your brake switches went bad simultaneously, but also not impossible, you can check the front brake switch like I explained in the video with a short length of wire, connecting those two wires that go to the switch and closing the brake light circuit. If that turns it on, both your switches have gone bad. Lastly, it doesn't sound like a fuse issue because I believe all the lights are on the same circuit and you haven't said that all your lights are out, but it wouldn't hurt to check the fuse box to confirm that none of them are bad. I hope you figure it out soon so you can get back to riding! Let me know what it was when you do, and feel free to ask more questions if needed.

Excellent!

Hah, thanks. Benefits of having a young daughter, I only regret that they were already a week old when I shot this 🤣

Thank you! And you're welcome, glad it helped!

Glad it helped! Mine were too damaged during opening for me to leave them as is with any confidence. I pretty much knew as soon as I got it open how I wanted to modify it when I closed it, but probably better that you didn't damage yours as much as mine haha. Thanks for watching!

just wanted to say thanks, great video mate, just fixed mine in almost same way, has been giving me intermittent function for a while, now all good, why they seal these things up, i guess they want you to buy new, is the same with most stuff now, but if there is a will there is usually a way, i am all for this sort of recycling, cheers from NZ.

Glad it helped! It does seem like they could have made it easy on us and had the cover be removable. I'm just glad it worked out, it would have been a waste to throw it out and buy a new one.

Thank you! It was a lot of trial and error unfortunately, not really any specific steps I can give you. I just tried to keep in mind that when I spun counterclockwise I needed the unthreaded part of the nut to move to the top, so that it could fall down and release the bolt. Also, I wasn't careful about which way the nut came out of the vise when I took it apart, so eventually I flipped it around and that helped. I didn't have to make the set screws very tight on the nut either, it needs to be able to rotate 180 degrees to work properly. I imagine the set screws would be most handy if you DIDN'T want the quick release, you could tighten the nut with the threads engages and keep it that way. I hope that helps a little at least, I feel your pain, definitely a frustrating process to get working right.

Sure thing, thanks for watching!

Who doesn't really

No, I haven't tried it in a drill actually. I imagine it would do fine as long as you kept the RPMs down on the larger diameter settings. Smaller holes probably wouldn't need the same consideration because the unbalanced nature of the bit is less of a factor, but could become dangerous for the bit and/or your wrists when trying to drill a larger hole at higher RPMs.

So I have used the bit in an electric drill and I wouldn't really recommend it, at least not with this style of bit. The force of the drill is enough to cause the mobile cutter to move no matter how well I thought I tightened it. If you can find one with a more secure toothed/geared mechanism for expanding the hole size that would likely work much better.

I know he's got a 14 month old who definitely could have gotten the job done.

@@samanthadallicardillo1656 The goggles were a nice touch though. Reminds me to always be safe when putting in a screw and rubbing on paste wax.

@@repete0122 Uhh, safety first, obviously. Never know when your hand might slip and you catch a screwdriver to the eye.

@@gumbyrocker Oh, I was thinking more along the lines of straining really hard with the screwdriver and tearing my biceps tendon from the bone and the recoil sending the screwdriver into my eye.

You are just the worst... : )

@@gumbyrocker I'm helping. More comments and likes tells youtube this is a video other people should see!

@@samanthadallicardillo1656 I know, hence the smiley