วีดีโอ

Yes, you probably could use a junior hacksaw, provided the blade had the right teeth. It really is a case of how much room you have to work. It could be done holding a standard hacksaw blade in a handle, but that file worked a treat, it was small enough not to be cumbersome and the right coarseness for that metal. I could have used one of my small angle grinders. Probably, others would like to try a cutting wheel on a Dremel. (You don’t want to hear my opinion on these) However, the time taken getting the kit out, as to five minutes with the file, seemed a no-brainer to me. It’s easy to get fancy tools out and grandstand like the big boys on youtube, but I guess that those watching this video are looking for solutions - not entertainment. If a few find the video useful it will have done its job.

Thanks for the clarification on the resistor values. It does help. I still intend to change them out as the markings have become unreadable, either by me when cleaning, or perhaps it occurred at the time of the fault. However the unit continues to run quite happy, and yes it is normal for the green light to blink with no load. Cheers Roger

My friend complained about very low sound. Initially I thought the problem may have been in the preamp which is housed with the subwoofer unit. The subwoofer was working fine. However, the side speakers were very low and slightly distorted. The speaker cones were non-existent! They had crumbled to nothing. Worth checking this first by removing the speaker grill to the side speakers. If these are intact then the problem is elsewhere. Always worth checking all the plugs and sockets first before looking for problems like this. Start with the simple stuff, don’t go looking for trouble unless you have to. As to the amplifier and preamp - I know nothing about the circuit details for fault finding.

@@colemanus1318 Thank you for the tips.

Thanks for taking the time to post this information - this will bring a lot of hope to those struggling without the volume control. If anyone out there tries this, please respond with your results to confirm it works. It really does help all of us with the same problem.

I never did get round to taking it apart so I'm not sure what is in this one. A reed switch makes more common sense considering the high temperatures involved withing the hot air gun. My assumption was based on another hot air gun given to me while working on this one. I took it apart, it was really well insulated inside and there wasn't anything that looked remotely like a reed switch, (not the ones of my experience). So I assumed "Hall Effect" and am probably wrong. Thanks for pointing it out.

Leaking caps, if left, are so corrosive given time. Not uncommon for PCB track damage to happen. I'm itching to pull this camera apart again and another one of similar vintage. Basically, to check the caps! But the problem is time - I don't have any to spare.

If one has a permanent work area where test/repair equipment has its place, then that mains cable may never become a problem. Mine gets fairly well mistreated. As to who is Boss - guess who just came in and quietly put a cup of tea by my side as I go through the comments. It took a life time to find a lady to put up with me. I'm definitely not an easy person to live with. I agree with you about the quality of tools, but if one or two are really useful, it's wise to modify them to suit ones needs.

Good to hear from you Andrew and thanks for filling in the detail of the repair, this will be of interest to others. 1. I’m with you - those flaps stick. It would be fun going down the airways with an endoscope and seeing what is going on for real. If the fans get in the way just drill an access hole somewhere convenient. 2. The cost of employing a certified Merc. Electronics Engineer and having a tester to check those units makes it far cheaper to just throw them away and fit new ones. The fact it worked is more testament to the connectors getting a workout, than the units being faulty. 3. Three units all failing together - NEVER! This is a very niche subject and I’ll email about what I could test - save irritating those out there looking for answers and not getting any.

Couldn’t agree more - it’s always an unsatisfactory outcome when there is nothing wrong with them in the first place. I’ve tested 4 units to date, three supposed to be faulty and one new one. Difference - NIL - it’s one big yawn and a waste of time. There are no answers here for any of us.

It's pleasing to know the video is still helping people around the World. Thanks for taking the time to comment

I’m willing to pay ;(

Sadly, the answers no. I do all this sort of stuff for fun - it keeps me amused. There is one guy I know on TH-cam that does this sort of work. His handle is 12voltvids (@12voltvids). It's worth checking out his channel even if it goes nowhere. th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=12voltvids The only drag is that he is in Canada but do have look all the same. Lots of these problems are down to connectors and there are plenty in Camcorders. I only repaired that old Camcorder because I needed to recover my old Tapes. They are challenging beasts to take apart! Only those that know how (or are a fool like me) would try.

Sorry, I can't help on this occasion as I gave away the speaker system some time ago.

I would like to oblige - but I gave the audio speaker system away sometime ago, so can't help on this occasion.

Thanks for comment, always good to know when people find it useful!

If only the components were that large. If they were, one can get sticky temperature labels that work quite well. Most of the components are smd and lots of them are less than 2mm in size. The Rosin atomizer works well for this sort of work, and so does watching isopropanol (IPA) evaporating faster on the hotter components. I have used thermal couples to measure temperatures on large components, it works fine, but when the business end of the thermal couple is bigger than the component one has resort to something else. If I was earning a living doing this sort of work I would invest in a high resolution Thermal Imaging Camera, rather than choke on the fumes from the rosin or have the chance of the IPA going up in flames.

@@colemanus1318 "I would invest in a high resolution Thermal Imaging Camera" - you could also get one of the cheaper cameras for smartphones, and put a lens in front so it focuses up very close (This is what I have done - works great) Cloudray makes some PVD focusing lens for IR lasers, which also works with FLIR. I can't see much difference between Meniscius and Plano Convex, I got the 20mm diameter size - with various focal lengths for extreme close ups and longer away ones. If I put an USB cable on it, I can also use it as a 'webcam' on my PC :ø) It really is a useful tool, not only for doing electronic repairs but also seeing insulation/cold/hotspots issues, electrical wiring issues (bad connections gets warm), etc.

NO! - It’s mainly Ethanol CH3CH2OH and Methanol CH3OH. To make it undrinkable it has other chemicals added that don’t change the structure of the Alcohols and it is commonly coloured purple to make it obvious what it is, the term for this is “denaturing”. It is sold in this Country as "Methylated Spirit" which is commonly abbreviated and spoken as the word “Meths”.

Thank you for the suggestion, I did try powdered rosin and it proved too fine and difficult to fill the atomizer with the right amount. Grinding the rosin smaller as you suggest, (perhaps to the size of granulated sugar?), may make it easier to judge the right amount and worth trying. In practise, one soon gets used to selecting the right size chunk of rosin so that one doesn’t overfill it.

Thanks for the comment, much appreciated - we all have different skill levels and there is nothing more frustrating than going over subject matter we are familiar with just to get to the minute or two of information that attracted us in the first place. I try to make it easier for the experienced to find what interests them whilst still maintaining useful information for those not familiar with the subject. I don’t care about popularity, number of views, or anything else that drives the “seasoned youtuber” to make videos. If a few find what I have to share useful then the video has done its job.

Brian - you are a star! Thanks for replying. Two heads are better than one. Strange as it may seem I was just about to order them. Now I can do it with some confidence I'll get it right! Roger

No - I don’t know! The procedure, all though basically similar, will vary from model to model, or manufacturer to manufacturer. WORK SAFE AT ALL TIMES. If your table is raised make sure that it is supported with a block of wood to ensure the table does not collapse and trap you should you release the hydraulic pressure. Otherwise there is an extremely high chance of serious injury. Turning the table on its side is a safer option while servicing or accessing parts under the table top. EXPERIENCE: For those with limited or no experience of mechanical engineering, the safest option is to get someone who knows what they are doing to do the work. I find it worrying that anyone would ask this question, when to me the solution is obvious on the model I have. Please be careful when repairing and using hydraulic equipment. Never rely on it where your, or anyone else’s, safety is at risk. Be aware that hydraulic systems can fail at any time.

Pleased to have helped you out Brian. And do keep us updated on your repair progress. It's always good to share our experiences as it does help others in the same boat. Roger

Brian, it would be a pleasure to check, I actually took some still close-ups for future reference. 1202 is 12Kohms not 1k2. Currently I'm recovering from an eye operation and can't see too well at the moment, hence no vids in the pipeline. That little daughter board runs too hot for its own good in my opinion and probably is the trigger for most failures. Anyway, I'll post the image on this channel ASAP. Hopefully, later today. Cheers Roger

Thanks very much for the information. I realised I misread the 12k as I was in a rush to get out this morning. I'll look out for updates, and hopefully you'll be feeling better very soon. Brian