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- What did you liked in my video?

thanks, it was difficult to listen to...

Oh Yeah ! :)

- I'm sorry to hear that. Maybe you are right, maybe not. - What you dont understand, that all of this, is part of a larger experiment and these movies are actually fragments. I am not proud of how I am explaining things (sometimes) but keep your eyes on the prize, that will (probably) come in later movies. This is my road on finding what Im looking for and Im sharing it with you, the public.

@@q12x You no speka da englis.

@@GWorxOz Sugeami-aicacatudincur.

Thank you very much !

Thank you for your RMS suggestion and I will try it in the future reading tests !

I think it is VERY understandable how I talk and you will get used to it in time. I have even more speedy than this. This is slow compared to others. Trust me. You can slow down the video from video settings.

awesome ! Leave a like while you're at it ;)

Thank you, piotrek !

Thank you, mister xz4po :)

You inspired me to show it, because I have it made from 10 years ago.

1-this type of motor is a 3V motor with a current of 60mA when is Full Load (stopped forcefully), and it will not get hot while stopped. In total, is at 180mW at full load(stopped). 2-these tr are more than enough fur such loads, they are cold all the time. Power on them is infinitesimal.

The same for me. I forget to mention it was one of the first cct in my beginnings also and I also used BC107 as well too. I built quite a lot of them for awhile, in the hope I will understand some new and practical purposes. I never did. But I learned I can put whatever NPN tr I want and play with res and cap values. - Here are my beginnings with Bistable Flip Flop, when I disassembled them and repurpose their components. th-cam.com/video/3DnrOMSUKMw/w-d-xo.html These are my first experiments when I realized "Hey, I can do it on cardboard!!!" They look old and ugly but they represent a curious childhood_adolescence period. - This is the other romanian guy with the 5mm board and 0402 SMD size components. I dont know him but I was impressed by the minuscule size of its work. th-cam.com/video/gJpjgnJ4Wd4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=VoidElectronicsRO Even if you dont understand the language, you can watch it either way and catch some interesting details he is using. A very interesting detail is that he is using a special solder with [bismut] at 138*C melting point and the hot air station he set it up to 200*C and low air flow - for the second round of boards. His project was the inspiration to show my board, because it never crossed my mind until now.

Exactly, I am primarily a (very good) artist, both in traditional and digital art ! _but unpaid and jobless for more than 10 years now. Yes, Hello from Romania. I am probably more than a hobbyst since all my life stay around specialized people, in diverse fields of electrics, electronics, audio electronics, mechatronics or automatization, etc. I count up the people on the forums as well, as specialized electronists, but I dont know exactly their speciality, since there are random people answering questions, you know how it is. Thanks for your interest !

@@q12x Thanks for feedback. Your videos are very interesting. I like also experimenting with electronics in free time. I would like to see Romania in future especially Transylwania and Dracula😀 Greetings

Just copy the code from the video - press pause and start typing. I am showing the hearth of it so it will be easy to fill the gaps. I also made other videos, that are continuing this project, you should check them as well. Maybe this will be more helpful: th-cam.com/video/HgS_B9AKybA/w-d-xo.html

Simply from experimentation and testing. I know is not a good thing to leave any inputs floating, but in this case, it looks that it works fine, so I can escape with less components or links and keep a very basic functionality. You are right and I thought of this while I was experimenting, that in the long run, it can introduce random signals, but ... looking at the application itself, I really dont need fancy security, its enough it is working and Im happy with that. You can secure it as much as you want, but for me, is ok. In the future if this will become something serious, I will upgrade this very basic circuit with a more secure one. But in the future. :) On the other side, if I remember right, the opamp (+) input will get a +3.71V from the signal. On the (-) input should get a voltage OVER this signal to mess up the opamp output. I dont think any time soon will do that only from a floating state. We can hope there will be some electrostatic charge on the (-) pin to actually influence it but ... again, from the tests, it looks fine as it is. The good part is that I can escape with less components this way.

@@q12x OK, thanks for the explanation. I think you are essentially using the op amp as a comparator and if I'm not wrong, you don't want to have to bias the inverting input with a resistor divider so you are just leaving it float and that somehow provides the appropriate bias.

​@@Enigma758Well, both as a comparator and an amplifier ! Remember, I wanted to amplify that input signal and obtain a much larger output swing, than with the tr. And it did the trick. A small difference, but it did it. Again, I might be wrong leaving the (-) input floating. But if it works, it works. :)

@@q12x Well yes, because as a "comparator" you are getting the maximum possible voltage swing that the op amp can produce, so in that sense, yes it is an amplifier as well as a comparator.

If I were to use an op amp, I would not use the LED, I think I would just build a relaxation oscillator. True, that require 3 resistors and a capacitor, so a total of 5 components and I do understand that you are looking for a minimal component circuit so it really depends on what your goal is.

Check this part2 maybe it helps you: th-cam.com/video/auhVcVUADWc/w-d-xo.html Do it exactly as Im doing it. If that is not working, try changing your resistor values. Maybe 1k is way too much, try 500R or 200R for an increased current. Maybe in your case a bit more voltage may help? Like 9V or 12V? Maybe your type of led is running under-voltage at 5V ? Try different transistors and ideally to be brand new, also check them with a tr tester device for good condition. Try different types of transistors. Try Darlington transistors. Try and try again, until you get results. Dont stop at the first fail. Announce me when you made it work and what was the issue with yours. Im curious.

@@q12x Thank you for the suggestions. If it's convenient for you, maybe you could try placing a scope across the LED terminals and see if you are getting a greater peak to peak voltage than mine (actually only a mere .5v p-p). I am suspecting that is the problem. Perhaps the internal circuitry of my LEDs are different than yours.

@@Enigma758 For a very simple setup, only the Blinking led and a 1k resistor I got: Vpp=2.66V, while Vmin=2.24V and Vmax=4.84V

@@q12x Thank you for that. Mine just arrived from China (purchased from ebay) just yesterday. I wanted to uses them as simple oscillators, but I'm afraid that mine are not good for that due to the low voltage swing. I also wanted to use them in the FLED circuits for BEAM robotics, but I don't think they will work for that either. If I had some that have the 2.6v swing such as yours, I'm sure they would work.

@@Enigma758 -Here is the exact link I purchase them: www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832852497597.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt -This is the full name they have it for this product on aliexpress online market: 60pcs Flashing Blink LED PULAR 0805 SMD Blinking Flash Diodes SMD 0805 Mixed each 10pcs Red Jade-Green Blue White Yellow Orange -Also be aware they are 0805 size, very small. I wish if they were 1206 size, but they are way more expensive and less pcs. These ones I find are the cheapest I could found.

- With welcome, glad I could help.

speeding up is a must, to cut down on time. Otherwise it will take way too long of a movie. You should be thankful Im cutting down time. You will have to get use to it, since everything Im presenting is very understandable at this speed !

I agree the speed up is annoying

Thank you

Exact, asta e un experiment la care am avut un noroc formidabil sa fie sincronizate (relativ) perfect. De aia am si pus segventa asta aici. In alte dati, m-am chinuit f mult sa le sincronizez ca aici in film. Si tine cont ca is 2 module total separate, cu alimentari separate si bineinteles porniri relative unul fatza de celalalt. Asa e, am folosit Casio-ul ca etalon, ca sa arat ca intr-adevar bate la 1s si se mentine constant si nu se abate de la bataia pe 1s !!! Timpul a fost relativ scurt dar zic eu dovedeste indeajuns exactitatea cristalului. Ca si experiment si functionalitate eu zic ca e un succes.

You must probably mean the mcp23017TestProgram.ino file I just upload it for you here: drive.google.com/file/d/1L4oxCQ-APZTsW-wDYSYUIdQTGij2K37z/view?usp=sharing

Thank you for your nice comment. The speed is to compress a lot of time into smaller time !!! That's it's only reason. Trust me, this is not that fast and it is very intelligible and you will get used to it, in time.

Q12 ATMEL AT28C16 EEPROM playlist: th-cam.com/video/eQhGYZf01i8/w-d-xo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB My "pluse duration" is that button Im pressing. That is all. This method is VERY manually ! But you will understand very well how to drive this chip, this way. Follow my steps Im presenting in the movie, changing that white wire from + to -, when to press the buton, when to switch back to read mode, etc. and it will work for you as well. Also, read very carefully the circuit diagram on the paper. See that switch how it is linked to + and - rails there? That R/W switch, smack in the middle of the page. That represents the read and write switch, but in my case Im using that White wire. There is no clock involved, only me pressing that shitty button. Good luck. Here is another video where I show my manual programming and reading: th-cam.com/video/zWPCuq9sGXo/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TeodorFoca

Here is the entire project with all the movies I made on this subject: th-cam.com/video/GO2zOjNpinI/w-d-xo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB You can look on the right side and see all the movies in this playlist.

Thank you very much !

Heh, Thanks for your comment ! WOW - my first comment. I know is a bit to get used to... but you will get used to it after a few. You can also slow it down from TH-cam playback speed as well, like 0.5 speed which is half of speed. The speed Im running my videos are inteligible enough and if unprocessed, they get to be waaay to long, thats the reason.

Ok, I am robotics student and hobbyist 😅, do you have any recommendations how to learn this stuff and whats important?

@@jedinaj Yah, "Dont give up" is the most important thing ! Try and try again and find new solutions. Automation is about finding solutions.

@@q12x Thanks, do you have any resources usefull to learn from?

@q12toto Btw cant believe I am first comment on your channel 😁

yes, it is a script over, but this is for laughs.

See if these will help your question: www.deviantart.com/q12a/art/Q20211120-Easy-PIC-10-Blink1Led1sec-898388637 www.deviantart.com/q12a/art/q20211111-Easy-PIC-4-12F508-and-RGB-p1-897601012 www.deviantart.com/q12a/art/q20210924-EasyPIC-3-Testing-Circuit-Board-892873766

@@q12x thanks, it's working. greetings from mexico <3

@@Sotma With welcome, from Romania. Glad to hear I helped.

Goto my TH-cam Playlist and search for ---Q12 PIC---. That particular Playlist contains all the PIC movies I made. If you search through them, you will find some code. I am usually showing everything. Also check this link with multiple easy to use PIC tutorials I made, here: www.deviantart.com/q12a/gallery/68185076/my-science You will have to search for a little bit until you find them.

@@q12x Thank you my friend

@@Belkhir-Beg With welcome.

what?

Thank you for your comment; I built a BIG board with 8xMCP23017 and NO pull up resistor for the SCK or/and SDA. It just worked. My best advice to you is to test and try different possibilities. With AND Without those resistors. In some specific cases may be needed for sure. But in my case, it worked without them. From what I read about these pullup resistors, they are used for wire connections longer than a couple of meters between your CPU board and this chip pins. Thats the only practical reason behind their use. I imagine I can add them very easy from SCK and SDA to VCC if I encounter a problem. So far I didnt got any problems so I leave it as you see here in the video.

@@q12x thanks.

Thank you. As you probably see the date when this movie was published, in 2006 this movie was made in around 2003-2004 when I was a student and I was learning the very hard way, 3dsmax program. This is one of my very first 3d movies I ever made, and for strange reason I still like it, in spite it's very old and deprecated look and feel and resolution. For me is a nostalgic movie, a crown of achievement after many hours, days and even years of learning, again the very hard way. I am way much better now, I didnt remain at that level, to be clear. Hehe.

Thank you very much !