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Digital ArtDeco
Germany
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2011
Welcome to my channel. I am an electrical engineer and I am professionally involved in the design and development of printed circuit boards in metrology. Privately I deal with rare tube measuring instruments and computers from the early days of the computer revolution. Also professional studio audio equipment is a specialty of mine.
For my projects I use software like KiCad, Gimp, Blender from blender.org and many more useful ones.
I'm not responsible for anything you do to your electronics and/or yourself. Do all repairs at your own risk!
Roland JD-800 Synthesizer: Epic Sci-Fi and Film Music Soundscapes Restoration Sneak Peek. No Talking
Experience the powerful and mesmerizing sounds of the iconic Roland JD-800 as I create film score-inspired and sci-fi space music. In this video, I let the lush and atmospheric tones of this legendary synthesizer take the spotlight-no talking, just pure sound exploration. This is also a teaser for an upcoming in-depth restoration video where I’ll reveal the meticulous work that went into reviving this JD-800 to its full glory.
After fully disassembling and cleaning all keys (thankfully, without encountering the infamous red-glue issue), I restored the keyboard to remove dust and debris collected over the years. I enhanced the rubber pads using a special technique for improved durability, and replaced all capacitors with AEC-Q200 qualified ones, ensuring this synth will be ready for decades of reliable use. The aftertouch, previously damaged by a modification attempt, has been recalibrated with a sealed variable resistor for future customization. I also refurbished the jackboard with high-quality Nichicon audio-grade capacitors and overhauled the power supply unit, upgrading it with premium voltage regulators and rectifiers for enhanced longevity and efficiency.
Every fader has been cleaned and lubricated with synthetic, silicone-free grease to protect the carbon tracks, and I’ve replaced all Fader PCBs with solid organic polymer aluminum capacitors. This Roland JD-800 is now ready to shine in new cinematic and space-inspired compositions.
Enjoy the first look at this fully restored JD-800 in action, showcasing its impressive sound capabilities. Stay tuned for the full restoration video, where I’ll dive into every detail of the process.
After fully disassembling and cleaning all keys (thankfully, without encountering the infamous red-glue issue), I restored the keyboard to remove dust and debris collected over the years. I enhanced the rubber pads using a special technique for improved durability, and replaced all capacitors with AEC-Q200 qualified ones, ensuring this synth will be ready for decades of reliable use. The aftertouch, previously damaged by a modification attempt, has been recalibrated with a sealed variable resistor for future customization. I also refurbished the jackboard with high-quality Nichicon audio-grade capacitors and overhauled the power supply unit, upgrading it with premium voltage regulators and rectifiers for enhanced longevity and efficiency.
Every fader has been cleaned and lubricated with synthetic, silicone-free grease to protect the carbon tracks, and I’ve replaced all Fader PCBs with solid organic polymer aluminum capacitors. This Roland JD-800 is now ready to shine in new cinematic and space-inspired compositions.
Enjoy the first look at this fully restored JD-800 in action, showcasing its impressive sound capabilities. Stay tuned for the full restoration video, where I’ll dive into every detail of the process.
มุมมอง: 511
วีดีโอ
Restoring the Roland Jupiter 4 - Mainboard Recap, CMOS Chip Troubleshooting, and Thermal Imaging
มุมมอง 3425 หลายเดือนก่อน
Welcome to the final part of my Roland Jupiter 4 restoration project! In this video, I'll be recapping the mainboard and troubleshooting to find out which CMOS chip is faulty. Using an oscilloscope and thermal imaging, I'll diagnose the problem and identify the malfunctioning chip to ensure this classic synthesizer sounds perfect again. In this detailed tutorial, you'll learn: How to recap the ...
Restoring the Roland Jupiter 4 - Recapping the Sound Card + Sound Demo (Part 2)
มุมมอง 1145 หลายเดือนก่อน
Welcome to the second part of my Roland Jupiter 4 restoration project! In this video, I'll take you through the process of recapping the sound card of this classic synthesizer. Join me as we replace the old capacitors and ensure the sound card is in optimal condition, breathing new life into this vintage instrument. In this video, you'll discover: How to safely remove and replace capacitors on ...
Reviving the Sound King - Roland Jupiter 4 Restoration and Troubleshooting + Sound Demo (Part 1)
มุมมอง 4516 หลายเดือนก่อน
Welcome to the first part of my latest restoration project! In this video, I'll take you on a journey through the restoration of a classic - the Roland Jupiter 4 synthesizer. Join me as I clean the knobs and tackle the challenges that come with repairing this vintage synthesizer. Discover how I identify the source of the Jupiter 4's issues and the steps I take to bring it back to life. This is ...
Roland Jupiter 4 Restoration Teaser
มุมมอง 646 หลายเดือนก่อน
Over the next few days, I will be restoring this vintage Roland Jupiter 4 synthesiser. There are many interesting details to discover and how to preserve this treasure of music history for the future. So stay tuned!
Gameboy Restoration and Display Upgrade: Bringing Retro Gaming Back to Life!
มุมมอง 138ปีที่แล้ว
🎮 Restoring and Upgrading a Vintage Gameboy - Full Restoration Project 🎮 Welcome back to DigitalArtDeco! In today's exciting episode, join me as I take on the restoration of a dilapidated Gameboy. This handheld classic has seen better days, with corroded battery contacts, a malfunctioning display, and a shattered battery cover. But fear not, because we're giving this Gameboy a new lease on life...
Next-Gen Retro: Transforming Sega Game Gear with a "Cutting-Edge" Display Mod!"
มุมมอง 2.7Kปีที่แล้ว
Hey there, gamers! Welcome back to our Sega Game Gear upgrade series, where we turn nostalgia into cutting-edge gaming! In today's video, we encounter a bit of a snag during our quest to enhance the gaming experience. While fitting our new borderless laminated LCD display, we unintentionally cut away a bit too much from the casing, resulting in a small, unsightly hole. Oops! But hey, we're not ...
Yaesu FT-891 Ham Radio Setup Test Unleashing the Power of the FT-891 Transceiver & ATAS-120 Antenna
มุมมอง 3.5Kปีที่แล้ว
Join us as we conduct the first test of the Yaesu FT-891 ham radio setup! In this video, we explore the capabilities of the Yaesu FT-891 transceiver and its performance when paired with the ATAS-120 antenna. Watch as we demonstrate the installation process and showcase the range and signal quality of this powerful combination. If you're interested in ham radio or amateur radio communication, th...
Restoring a Defective Minolta Spotmeter F : Uncovering its Secrets and Reviving a Classic
มุมมอง 2.5Kปีที่แล้ว
Unveiling the Mystery of a Defective Minolta Spotmeter F | Camera Repair and Restoration I recently acquired a bargain-priced Minolta Spotmeter F that was labeled as defective. Join me in this video as I embark on a fascinating journey to uncover the reasons behind its malfunction and attempt to restore it to full functionality. Through careful examination and troubleshooting, we'll explore the...
Don't use ceramic caps in your Amiga1200. Here is why
มุมมอง 2873 ปีที่แล้ว
Don't replace the electrolytic capacitors in your retro computers with MLCCs! Here's why... The previous Video: th-cam.com/video/8ziu90dil2A/w-d-xo.html Used capacitors in this video: 25SEK470M 16SEPF1000M T EEH-ZC1V100R EEH-ZC1E470P EEH-ZC1E220R EEH-ZC1E101XV Understanding Polymer and Hybrid Caps: www.mouser.de/pdfdocs/Panasonic_Capacitors_WP_final-4.pdf www.mouser.de/new/panasonic/panasonicEE...
Let's build the most powerful low ripple power supply for your AMIGA with OVP. Part 1
มุมมอง 3463 ปีที่แล้ว
I mean 5 millivolts (mV) and not microvolts (μV)! Sorry :-) Ripple in power supplies can be a problem for old computer hardware. If I may say it even more extreme: Ripple is in the long run the death for computer chips! Therefore I want to use a power supply that has a ripple of less than 5 mV! The power supply I used here is called "NMC-101" from FG-Elektronik GmbH in Germany. It is a multi-vo...
New badge for my Commodore 1541 diskdrive
มุมมอง 833 ปีที่แล้ว
In a previous video I repainted this floppy drive. In the comments I was told that the color of the badge does not match the blue. I realized that afterwards as well. Because somehow the metallic blue didn't match with the original badge from Commodore. What do you think? Do you think that this badge fits better to the color now? Write it to me in the comments. Here the link for the previous vi...
Finally I got it! Unbox and Lets Play "ATTACK OF THE PETSCII ROBOTS"
มุมมอง 3083 ปีที่แล้ว
I got mail from "The 8-Bit Guy"! I ordered the game "Attack of the PETSCII Robots" for the Commodore C64. I wanted to have the autograph version. And today finally I got it. Let's open the package and load the game into our C64. Link to the Video where I repaint the Commodore 1541: th-cam.com/video/dWbCWFm5wF4/w-d-xo.html The 8-Bit Guys Video about the game: th-cam.com/video/uyf7tiSO9vo/w-d-xo....
Metallic car paint for the Commodore 1541 floppy drive.
มุมมอง 2003 ปีที่แล้ว
I want to use a metallic lacquer for the Commodore 1541 floppy drive. This will be the sports car among the floppy drives. Here the link for the video where I change the voltage regulators with my own designed TO-3 pachaged regulators: th-cam.com/video/rpAeyCYEp4o/w-d-xo.html This link is for the C64 case repaint: th-cam.com/video/ZHhmVrc4_Ds/w-d-xo.html music by masterdrwho , its also me :-) #...
Repainting the C64 and also burn the case. (by accident)
มุมมอง 1143 ปีที่แล้ว
Repainting the C64 and also burn the case. (by accident)
Recap the Amiga 1200 with Aluminum Polymer Solid Caps. Never leak again.
มุมมอง 6513 ปีที่แล้ว
Recap the Amiga 1200 with Aluminum Polymer Solid Caps. Never leak again.
Fix the "Brick of death". Commodore 64 Powersupply update. Recap and replace the voltage regulator.
มุมมอง 4524 ปีที่แล้ว
Fix the "Brick of death". Commodore 64 Powersupply update. Recap and replace the voltage regulator.
Raplacing the voltage regulators in the Commodore VC 1541 disk drive.
มุมมอง 3834 ปีที่แล้ว
Raplacing the voltage regulators in the Commodore VC 1541 disk drive.
Build your own switch mode voltage regulator for your Commodore VIC 20. Replace the obsolete LM323K.
มุมมอง 4124 ปีที่แล้ว
Build your own switch mode voltage regulator for your Commodore VIC 20. Replace the obsolete LM323K.
Checking the suppressor diode P6KE 6.8 and lets burn it
มุมมอง 9K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Checking the suppressor diode P6KE 6.8 and lets burn it
Recreating the famous Pultec EQP-1A Program Equalizer with KiCad and order PCB at JLCPCB
มุมมอง 3944 ปีที่แล้ว
Recreating the famous Pultec EQP-1A Program Equalizer with KiCad and order PCB at JLCPCB
Replacing the old LM323K voltage regulator and test inside the Commodore VIC20.
มุมมอง 6594 ปีที่แล้ว
Replacing the old LM323K voltage regulator and test inside the Commodore VIC20.
Der Farviprüfer Röhrenmessgerät aus 1948
มุมมอง 3324 ปีที่แล้ว
Der Farviprüfer Röhrenmessgerät aus 1948
I have my Yaesu ATAS installed on my Ford F250 pick up truck, using the diamond K 400 mounting hardware on the hood of my truck. Yaesu recommends a strong bond between this antenna and the chassis of the truck, but I don’t see how to do that. I did use some sandpaper and scrape the paint off underneath the Diamond K - 400 mounting hardware, but I don’t see any way to bond this antenna to the chassis of my truck. I would appreciate your suggestions TIA.
Hi, you don't need to remove the paint from the vehicle to establish a good grounding. I made the counterbalance by clamping an 8mm square cable (the green yellow cable) with a suitable cable lug (here with a pre-insulated diamond grip cable lug) under the diamond K-400 holder and then clamping the other end of the cable inside the trunk at a point behind the trim where there was already a connection for grounding. I then measured the contact resistance to make sure the grounding was good. The ATAS antenna worked perfectly and I always had a low SWR.
🅰️🅱️🕉️🕉️GOOD TEACHING FOR YOUR CHANNEL🚦THANK YOU SO MUCH VERY VERY GOOD 👌👍👌👍💃💃💃😁😀😂😝😝
nice noodling around the keyboard
Thank you very much!
I would love to once more experience my JD-800 but sadly the keys are stuck and no one qualified in Jersey to restore. TY Roland for chosing red.
The Roland Cloud JD-800 is a perfect replica of it since it is a 100% digital and Roland themselves made it. You could try to map the sliders and buttons on your "keystuck" JD-800 to that and you have the same thing with an added bonus that you can save every sound together with the song in your daw. And (almost) unlimited instances of different sounds at the same time. That is, if the stuck keys isn't in blocking the sending of the control messages from the sliders on the JD-800.
@@Magnus_Loov Damn!! I did not even think of that. And probably cheaper than refurbing. TY!! And I had 2 and sold one as the keybed was a stuck mess!!!
You can do it yourself just fine. Don't be lazy, is the easiest keyboard to fix.
Can you tell me where small spring lug bar went? It looked the last thing you replaced, before sealing the unit up.
Thank you for watching my video and leaving a comment! I noticed that you mentioned a small spring lug bar and asked where it went. I'd like to make sure I understand your question fully, so I can provide the best response. Could you please clarify which specific part you're referring to? If possible, it would be helpful if you could provide the timestamp in the video where you saw this part. This way, I can review that section and give you a detailed answer. Thanks again for your interest, and I look forward to your reply!
@@DigitalArtDeco It’s around the time stamp of 16:18 , you are holding the little spring lug in your hand? I was just wondering where it popped out from & where it needs to go back please?
@@Questy33 This is the metal pin that holds the strap. The metal pin is inserted into a slot under the handle before the case is screwed shut. Best seen at time stamp 18:44 .
@@DigitalArtDeco Cheers, thanks very much for the info & excellent video, and taking the time to reply, very much appreciated.
Thanks for making this video, it shows me that I definitely won’t be doing this mod. The amount you need to cut out of the shell is absurd! I’d probably make the same mistake as you. I’m going to go for the non laminated screen.
Excellent video, great skills there
one tip, as you are screwing into plastic, after you have lostened the screws, do them back up with a jewellers screwdriver so you only use finger tip tension, not your whole hand, which over torques the thread stripping it. the same thing is done by people servicing computers, I phones, etc. as they are micro mechanics, dealing with small and delicate parts.
Borders look better
Como saber se o Diodo P6KE18CA, está bom? Ou aberto?
Great video. Mine is also a BA662 version. In these early units there’s an issue where the LFO will leak into the audio output when the filter mod amount is set high and LFO speed is audio rate. Have you noticed this in your unit? Cheers.
Really excellent work ... I've recapped many of my synths but I've stayed away from CMOS chips (ANY chips for that matter)... maybe I'll get brave and try and do a complete service one day ... great job 🙂
Thanks!
Watching closely as mine needs work.. thanks for uploading this
Hello, I'd like to make some of these myself and I'm trying to find the parts. It seems the inductor XAL5050-562MEB is not available any more. Is there a replacement? Also, what is the part called you used for the contact pins?
nice like 36
Good luck with the JP-4 restoration... it's an oldie bit a goodie. These type of repair videos are a great reference source if we're ever in the same situation ... I replaced the dull green LEDs on my old Yamaha An1X on the weekend with much brighter orange LEDs and everything I needed to know was posted on YT.
looking forward to this! i have a jp4 where the only sound im getting out is the LFO, no voices can be heard. would like to diagnose the problem of this beast!
I made a template on my 3d printer so I could get a perfect sizing for this.
Fatiha for Sultan mehmed Rahimullah
I am restoring my old vic and would love to have one of these. Do you still have any of them?
One more question: how did you open it?
With all the "epoxy" talk it sounded hard to fix, but this actually looks pretty easy. Seeing this I envision an even easier fix: remove the PCB completely and put this piece inside: IRM-10-5 Meanwell PCB all-in-one switching PSU.
Hello, with some PSUs it is easier, with others it is not. Mine here was very easy to open, but I have also had some that were very difficult to open. Sometimes too much epoxy has been filled in, which makes reworking even more difficult. The idea with the IRM-10-5 Meanwell is a good one. However, this model has a ripple of 200 mVpp, which is very high. Computer chips from the early 80s are sensitive and should not be exposed to high ripple for too long. In another video, however, I followed a similar idea and installed a voltage regulator that had a ripple of about 20mVpp.
hi any chance u could tell me where the long silver Pin at 16 minutes 12 seconds places inside the meter, please, many thanx M
It is the silver PIN for the collar. You can see how to attach it from minute 18:40.
man, cutting the plastic is horrible.. did it like 4 or 5 times.. im still waiting for factory-made plastic shells for these laminated screens..
Thank you for the video. Today I received from a cinematographer friend, a Minolta Spotmeter F and a Minolta Autometer IV F. Neither of them are working. The display goes blank. So I will use your video as a reference to review the power button cables, their cables and connections. Thank you!
What would be cool is a sided by side comparison of the old one and this upgrade.
We hear your mic on but you can’t talk?
How's the battery draw on this mod? How many watts?
Great job on the design and PCB's. Unfortunately, the next part of this video is missing. I was really looking forward on seeing how you got along!
Does anyone know what The Component is? Tiny nuclear reactor?
It's a coil. 😄
Hi, I was so happy to find your video. I recently bought one of these on Marketplace and it worked when I tested but when I went to use it on a shoot a month or so later the measuring button does not work. All the other functions seem to be fine. I can change settings as needed but when I press the measuring button it always reads "0". I can see the switch assembly clearly at 5:00 in your video. Any tips on how I might repair it? What I should look for. I had a similar problem with an old Minolta incident meter where the unit worked but the on/off button did not function (I could power up by popping the battery in and out). I successfully repaired that by disassembling and cleaning the trace with contact cleaner. Maybe this one functions in a similar way? THanks.
Hello and thank you for your question. The problem with the pushbutton could be quite banal. It is possible that a cable on the pushbutton has come loose. These devices are over 30 years old and it can happen that the solder joints break. Maybe you should just open the unit and see if any of the cables are hanging freely. My guess would be the cables on the pushbutton. One of them could be loose. Then just solder it back to the right place.
Thanks for the quick reply! I will give it a go and report back. :)@@DigitalArtDeco
Now I know how to get in there if my Spot-F ever goes down. I would also take a swab with some alcohol on the tip to clean off the inside ends of those contact switches or buttons, just in case one of them was touched and picked up some hand-oil while working in the insides.
Hello. I've just received mine, but my viewfinder is different...Some Minolta F spotmeters have flat viewfinders, some of them have protruding one. Why it's like that ? Also, I don't know how to turn eyepiece to make a dot a bit sharper inside a viewfinder, do you know anything about it maybe ?
The viewfinder should be rotatable to focus the spot. If it is not, please check if it is modified. Possibly there is also a previous unsuccessful repair?
@@DigitalArtDeco Thanks for the answer. I don't think there is a way to check if it's been modified. I thought that maybe there are a few versions of this lightmeter, and mine hasn't got this option to turn viewfinder.. It's rigid. Also, I'm not sure if it's taking correct measurements. If I got it right, the quickest way to measure the scene is to point it, shoot it, and reading shoud be on display, am I right ? First you need to set up shutter speed, let's say 1/60s, and later you can find desired combination of aperture and shutter speed by pressing arrows ? But if the reading of Aperture shows 5.6 and 1 (little decimal 1) - whats the Aperture value actually ? I compared the values it's giving me with my inside -a-camera lightmeter, and they are different..............
No audio, waste of time!
I’d like to know where you got the screen and the item/part number.
Just search for "Game gear lcd" on e.g. Aliexpress. You will find what you are looking for.👍
Brilliant. Instant sub.
Great video! I bought a game gear micro and the screen broke. I tried to fix it with a screen from a smart watch, and the lcd light came on but no image. Maybe one day you can do a screen mod on that since there are no replacement parts available? I’d love to see it. Thank you.
the screen broke itself..?
Awesome job!! 🎮
I have one and it has the same defect. Nobody could fix it sadly.
Use a fuse before a TVS diode and a common mode choke followed by a capacitor after that. Mild spikes get clipped, but major ones cause crowbar effect. You can also use a FET follower that cuts the power when the TVS cuts in and trigger a crowbar circuit with a super fast transit time. I used circuits like that for protection of RF amplifiers.
Do you sell the pcbs?
No, but I will put the complete project on github soon as open Hardware.😉
Great stuff! Are you planning on selling it? Cheers
Thanks! But I am not selling it, sorry. 😉
promosm 🤪
Hello. Really great tracing, congratulations. Would you sell pcbs? Thanks. Adrien
Hello and thank you for your comment. Please contact me with a PM.
Masha Allah Aye muslimo ka Garv se sir uuncha karne wale, Rasul(saw) ki Peshangoi Ko PURA karne wale Mera Salam ho Ap par India
What is the amp on that fuse???
nicc work
Excellent video! Great job swapping these out! People still continue to fit ceramics in place of electrolytics and it really annoys me.
Thanks for your comment. I'm very happy that you like the video.
Great idea. Maybe turn the old badge into a fridge magnet.
Hello - thanks for your video. I am replacing the voltage regulator on my old Vic 20 and then I saw you replacing both on the 1541 disk drive. I bought a PSU5 from EZSBC for the Vic 20 and was thinking about replacing one on the 1541 but I cannot find a similar replacement for the 12 volt. Would you sell me a set? I like repairing the 1541 drives as I also repair Commodore 64's as a hobby.
Hello and thank you for your message. You are right, unfortunately there are no 12V regulators in TO-3 form. Therefore I have planned and assembled the regulators myself. They work very efficiently and safely. No heat is generated! I have also sold these regulators to a few interested people at cost price. Unfortunately I have only a small stock of the microchips needed to make this regulator work. But for two pieces it should be enough for you. :-) Where are you from? Please write me a private mail!
@@DigitalArtDeco Thanks - I sent you an email. Initially I could not get your contact info on TH-cam as Fedora Linux on my laptop did not like the captcha API. :(