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@@M_santana26 Hi, CLA aka Clean Lube and Adjustment.

@ got yaa!! Have you made any vids on how to do it ?

@@M_santana26 , Many. On many different vintage movie cameras.

@@gazelbob5443 Hi, Yes. After the Bolex P3 it's really best to stay clear of standard double 8mm Bolex models concerning repairs. After the Bolex P3 quality went down hill. The square Bolex models after the P3 are mostly held together with glue. When finding you can't locate screws needed to loosen something in dismantling there are some tiny screws hidden behind the pretty aluminum that's held onto the camera with glue. The aluminum has to be heated off via a hairdryer then pulled up and removed using a thin tool such as a guitar pick. Carful not to bend the aluminum covers as they sell online for about $20.00 each U.S.D. Motors in standard 8mm Bolex models after P3 are cheap metal pressed. Not like the well held together film spring motors of passed Bolex models. When being unable to find other screws it usually means parts are glued together. This is why the Bolex models after the P3 are cheap in price. Sometimes they're even beyond repair. Thank you for the kind words. And you're very welcome. ~Paul~

@paulmorbid1476 Wow didn't suspect Bolex to glue stuffs !! Thanks a lot for your insights your work is really apreciated :) it's thanks to passionate persons like you that internet gets it's meaning

@gazelbob5443 , Also stay clear of Bolex Super8. They're notorious for breaking. You're most welcome and again thank you for the kinds words.

Hi @SadderGuacamole, Thank you for the kind words.

@@stikkisoxx hi Vintage Fujichrome can be processed at home for color. And b&w. I'm making experimental horror so knowing that the original Fujichrome will look bad that's the look I'm going for. When sending vintage film to a lab film rescue can process it but only in a negative. Upon that a filmmaker like myself wants to view our works via a vintage movie projector film usually has to be processed at home by the filmmaker. Retro8 in Japan processes vintage Fujichrome Single-8. However, it's unclear if they do so in both a + and -. Happy filming. ~Paul~

@@polaroidbarber hi, Thank you for the kind words.

@@benbiji2065 hi, Thanks a bunch.

@@paulmorbid1476 You’re most welcome

@@esra_erimez hi, The mercury batteries were used back in the day for some move cameras for the exposure meter.

They had the most stable voltage discharge curve of all the batteries at the time.

@@stevenmorris4482 hi, You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words.

@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Hi, It's your choice to use the original Bolex screw or the replacement. Just make sure that upon using the replacement screw that when the camera door is closed to check between the sides of the door and camera body to make sure the door is completely meeting (closed) on to the camera body. As for the other bent metal piece a photo would need to be sent to me via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid or Bolex Repair Philippines Fb Page. Upon that I'm reading your comment correctly you mean the pressure plate. Thank you for the kind words. ~Paul Morbid~

@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Hi, The supply spindle and take-up spindle should turn freely. This action can be tested by turning the take-up spindle and supply spindle with the fingers. The supply consists of a metal large washer, hard leather pad, a bent oval washer. No lubricant is to be applied to the supply leather pad. The take-up spindle is metal pressed into (in part) the film compartment plate. Upon that the take-up spindle becomes too hard to turn it's usually become rusted. A few drops of weapons oil can be applied to the take-up spindle inside the film compartment at the spindle base then let the camera sit up side down for about an hour. After that you can attempt to start turning the take-up with your fingers. ⚠️Best not to dismantle the take-up spindle ⚠️ Upon that you wish to do so and it breaks and or you get cut it's all on you. As I let everyone know when 1St getting a vintage movie camera it's best to send it to a service technician for a new CLA aka Clean Lube and Adjustment. A Bolex is made of 4 types of metals. Therefore they rust and corrode easy inside. The Door lock should turn easy yet a bit firmly. Upon that I'm reading your comment correctly it seems to me that the seller could have worked on that Bolex, either put it together with different parts and either it's door lock is misaligned and or the film compartment plate isn't put back properly. The silver door lock is to sit almost on to the black part of the door with a slight space in between. Opening the it's door is to take a push-in then clockwise. Closing is to push-in then turn counter-clockwise. The door lock screw could be stripped and or off-center. To help correct this make sure the screw it slightly tight (too much can crack the lock housing) then apply a drop of Lock Tight aka Thread Locker. This product can be purchased from a hardware store. *You're welcome to send me photos and videos of the issue including the position of the door lock (photo) via morbidteamentertainment@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid or X:@paulmorbid. ⚠️"If" you decide to dismantle the camera 1St make sure to fully wind down it's motor. Otherwise the motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. If that happens there's no choice but to buy a junk camera of the same model with a working motor. Bolex never intended for the Standard Double 8mm camera motors to be repaired only replaced. Those motors are metal pressed together ⚠️. ~Paul~

@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Here you are. How To Secure Door Lock Screw & Free-Up Supply & Take-up spindles On Bolex D8L th-cam.com/video/aEBFSe6AwlU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8m5oFq55jBhQCW_r

@@MrPaultheguitar Hi , I agree. And thank you for the kind words.

Hi stikkidoxx, The quality is ok or bad at times when filming with original Fujichrome. However that's the look I'm going for as it's avant-garde horror being filmed. Haven't tried the new Single-8 film from Click&Surr as they told me it's prohibited outside the E.U. Therefore I'm going to have to discover the correct notching system then drill it into the back of my original Fujichrome cartridges for 100D. Then load Kadak 100D into the original Fujichrome cartridges. In addition new Single-8 cartridge files can be down loaded via Jenny List and 3D printed in SLA. The machine must a high quality one. There's also a company in Italy and check if they will sell to me. Here's my link for loading Kodak 100D into a Fujichrome R25 cartridge. The nothing system is to be shown later when figured out. Thank you for the kind words. In the description of my video is the link of Jenny List to download the new Single-8 cartridges. th-cam.com/video/r-qcDTFKYxM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=M8inj1RIikKhwFE2

@@joshrodrigue7216 Hi, Check with Duallcamera. And thank you for the kind words. duallcamera.com/

@@JOEBLACK1979 Hi, Currently I'm working on an experimental horror film that's keeping me busy. In addition when I am available the repairs within the Philippines. This is because of laws on shipping metals outside the Philippines. ~Paul~

@@JOEBLACK1979 what seems to be the issue with your Bolex.

@@yousufsarfaraz2178 hi, When a Bolex motor is locked up don't wind it any further. One trick is to apply heat to it's motor via the silver turn key area. This is where it's motor's located. Do so for as 45 seconds off and on while pressing the camera shutter button. It's then possible the old lubricant inside it's clutch motor barrel would soften up so that the motor can be wound completely down.. *Note: Bolex didn't market the small Standard Double 8mm movie camera motors to be repaired only replaced* They are metal pressed together and can't be opened. The old graphite grease inside that Bolex 8mm clutch motor barrel usually has dried up over the decades. However, it's possible it'll start operating again after getting it moving. *Note:Bolex claimed the motors couldn't be over wound. But they can* Upon that your Bolex won't start working it's best to send it to a service technician for repair. It's not recommended to repair these cameras without experience.

@@peterkovacik1976 Hi, It could be that it's motor is out of synchronization after reinstallation. Or the spring in the clutch motor barrel broke. Upon the motor being broken another motor from a scrap Bolex P2 would be needed. Bolex never marketed the Standard Double 8mm (small camera motors) to be repaired only replaced. The motors in the small 8mm Bolex cameras are metal pressed together. This is the reason. An attempt to keep setting it's motor back correctly can be done. Or send it to a service technician for repair.

@@Tovohx Hi, Reads like it's the gear near the motor that's broken. Usually there's also a cracking noise with it. It's caused by the issue pointed out in my video. Solution: buy a different brand of camera. And not another Canon 514XL-S.

Hi @MrPaultheguitar, You're very welcome.

@@Coffeeology , You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words.

@@MauroTallerdeArteMauro , You're very welcome. ~Paul~

Sprin Motor non reflex 16 and 2x8 the same?

Hi @user-hc4gd6km5m, Forgive me for being unable to fully understand your question. However motors in various models can be different in Bolex cameras. ⚠️"If" your Bolex motor requires servicing it's best to send the camera to a service technician. That repair is for a professional ⚠️ Thank you for the kind words.

Hi @user-hc4gd6km5m, Forgive me for being unable to fully understand your question. However motors in various models can be different in Bolex cameras. ⚠️"If" your Bolex motor requires servicing it's best to send the camera to a service technician. That repair is for a professional ⚠️ Thank you for the kind words.

@@MORCOPOLO0817 Hi, As pointed out in my video the finished film will look vintage. It won't be crystal clear clean. It's going to look like a beautiful original vintage (that the film would be then) film. All those overlays that look like scratches for a vintage movie that repeat themselves about every 4 seconds are easily created by hand on an original vintage viewer/editor. Computers are only used by filmmakers who prefer that digital crystal clear look. From my generation during the 70's-80's this was understood. It's that when Single-8 and Super8 cameras were put away in grandad's closet for decades a new generation discovered them fortunately. And filmmakers such as myself are grateful this new generation of filmmakers shooting on film. When a filmmaker wants to make a movie so clean that the make-up of the talents face is visible that's too clean. It is to me. Otherwise, a filmmaker should just shoot digital.

@@paulmorbid1476 I guess my question is this: Are you making the film for your own personal enjoyment, to sell, put on the internet for others to enjoy or all of the above? if you plan on making money on it or putting it on the internet, computers will come into play at some point in the game. You will need to transfer it digitally.

@@paulmorbid1476 I guess my question is this: How do you intend to show the film and to what audience? Obviously if you are going to show it on the internet or distribulte it you will haved to at some point go digital. And if that is the case you will have to transfer it to digital. And in this case you might as well edit it digitally. I get the interest in using celluloid as a capture medium. Personally, I prefer film over digital for storytelling myself. It's your post production plans that I am curious about. If you are just making the film for your own personal viewing and friends and family then you can get away doing everything manually.

@@MORCOPOLO0817 , I understand your point however it must be understood that 1St bucket processing is superior over digital as that process at the beginning provides all the scratches and drop out needed. In addition, by hand adding effects via a bent paper clip (film scratching) with writing etc is king. Film painting including other effects of the like (check my experimental videos concerning these subjects) are added to the film. Plus adding chemicals to discolor the film with a brush. After that a film a easily be edited via a vintage viewer/editor. A dv cam is only needed to upload a movie to an online market. Also, there are other ways to make a film look trashy (as I put it). Of course films are to be sold. Then there's film festivals that (for experimental works) where vintage projectors are used to show films in the true fashion. Some secrets are mine and maybe one day I'll pass those on. Some that have been developed by myself and some from working with Star Wars talent when managing them years ago.

@@rickyspanish2517 Hi, You're welcome to email me some photos and videos of this via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com. *In addition as I always point out it's best to sent a camera to a service technician for repair. A Bolex (or any vintage movie camera) camera contains tiny screws, springs, glass elements etc that can get lost in the blink of the eye. Therefore whatever mistakes made to your/a camera in any attempt to repair/service your/a camera are on you* I am willing to view the photos and videos you send to me concerning this. A service technician would give that Bolex a new complete CLA that it most likely needs.

@@rickyspanish2517 , Keep in mind not to force the Bolex turret aka lense mount. That turret could be extremely rusted and or corroded. There have been times that some Bolex owners had glued the turret so that it wouldn't move or rotate.⚠️this is not to be done⚠️. Turret caps are available to screw into each available area on a Bolex turret where there isn't a lense attached.

@@rickyspanish2517 , It's very possible the shuttle blades are in the way. View all my videos. The one provided below could help you. th-cam.com/video/x-DuN7Z2CKw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ljltZYx2GVd6Tycv

@@polaroidbarber , I took a closer look after recording that video and noticed some light corrosion starting. Batteries in any camera should be removed when not using it. Here's a video of mine on camera battery corrosion. th-cam.com/video/EUhuirBg3Uk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YbArbxP_h4DwnGlU

@@sanmaran1 Hi, Try gently turning it to the right. Then turning, turning and turning the lense. Don't force it. Also, attempt in applying heat (via a hairdryer ) to the mount up to about the center of the lense for about 30 seconds. This is to loosen any old lubricants. Don't heat the glass elements as this can break them. ⚠️Don't heat the lense too long or the glass elements could crack.⚠️ Just enough heat to loosen any old lubricants. ⚠️Any mistakes made to you projector in any attempt to repair/service it are on you ⚠️ Upon this doesn't work you're welcome to send me close-up photos of the lense mount via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid. *I do not use messenger* Thank for viewing and your question.

@@sanmaran1 The old lubricant needs to be cleaned off with 99.9% rubbing alcohol. Don't get any on the glass elements. The reapply sewing machine oil in it's place. Here's my video below. However the process isn't being shown. But removing the lense on my Elmo FP A is. th-cam.com/video/tKSQ124O55o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rskhJZ5Gm5TIRBbT

@@erissylvain Hi, Upon that the WD-40 was sprayed on any plastic parts and gears it needs to be removed. Plus the operation of the camera will splash it around. In addition the WD-40 odor can give the same effect. If you're going to disassemble the camera make sure you have the knowledge of doing so. It's always best to send a camera to a service technician for repair/servicing. Keep in mind that cameras are filled with tiny parts, springs, micro screws. ⚠️Note: a point and shoot camera with a built in flash is dangerous to open. Because it's flash has to be defused. Otherwise, it can give the person touching the inside of it a big shock ⚠️ Every time a camera with a built in flash is turned on it's flash is recharged. It can be usually heard when turning the camera on. *Any mistakes you make to the camera and or your person in any attempt to repair/service a/ the camera are you* I'd highly suggest sending the camera to a technician for repair. Below is the type of lubricant used for plastic gears and parts. *Start viewing at 16:50. Thanks for viewing. th-cam.com/video/o4-b2-LMMaM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5XJONkzNxOgVI4uP

@paulmorbid1476 Luckily, he told me that he didn't spray it directly to the camera, he left a drop fall into the hole where the backdoor latches. But I do can smell the wd-40. Sadly, I live in a fisherman's town, and I have really no technician to go to. Thanks a lot to take the time to answer.

@@erissylvain , Just hope for the best. The lubricant to use in cameras (for the metal on metal) is weapons oil. Check the light seals to make sure no WD-40 go on them. If so then they will need to be replaced. WD-40 is also hard on the glass elements (lenses, viewfinder glass etc.). You're very welcome.

@@erissylvain , By the way. Try opening the film compartment door then setting the camera on a table in front of a window where the sun can shine into the film compartment ( empty of course) with no film inside. This could help get rid of that WD-40 odor. Because it could affect the film when a roll is put into the camera. Especially if a roll stays in it for a long time.

@paulmorbid1476 Thanks a lot. If there is something I do have is sunshine :) Im going to leave it ventilating for a while before using it again. I was able to clean the little oil I saw from the sides with a cotton bud. Like yiu said, let's just hope the damage is not instant and exteme. Never again, lesson learned!

@@RobCCrosby Hi, I'll show that in time. It's kinda tricky. Best to send it to Du All Camera. www.duallcamera.com/

Hi @CarloTimothy, I'll be getting back to the Canon 310XL series in time. As I pointed out the lense element housing just crumbled (as usual) with these models. Got to put it back together then reconstruct it. These cameras take lots of time to repair and are very old now. In addition the cheaper the parts makes it to where the parts many times have to be reconstructed. Thanks for viewing and for the kind words.

@@IknowsPickin Hi, Bolex cameras are meant to be serviced by a knowledgeable technician. The spring must be fully wound down (before) dismantling the camera. And even then the spring within it's clutch motor barrel is prewound to a point. Dismantling the Bolex otherwise can damage gears, break it's spring including that to the person working on it. As I point out in my videos these repairs take time. This is also why customers call service technicians asking "what's taking so long with my camera". A Bolex (or most any vintage movie camera) is made of many types of metals. The technician is working with rusted and corroded screws, springs, tiny parts and gears etc. I even have a video showing the power of a Bolex H-16 spring that jumps out of the clutch motor barrel. And when that clutch barrel hits the floor and wall at high speed it bends it. Then it's useless. Patience and experience is the only key when servicing/repairing vintage movie cameras. Hope your ok, for viewing and for the kind words.

@@IknowsPickin , Here's my video on a much easier method of winding down a stuck Bolex spring motor on a H-16. th-cam.com/video/DjlZRf_q3OU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-bE5BopjIN36gZzv

@@IknowsPickin , Here's my video showing a Bolex main spring within it's clutch motor barrel flying out. This is showing the "power" of that spring either during removing it or installation. Usually a service technician would use a device known as a "Spring Winder". This device is for re-installing the spring. The spring is placed into the winder along with the clutch motor barrel. Then the spring is wound down small. After that the Spring Winder inserts the spring into the barrel. This is a hand operated machine usually used by in clock repair. Here's my video showing the power of a Bolex H-16 spring flying out of the clutch motor barrel. th-cam.com/video/fEMQiWs8j5o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uy8hVh4m6EZZACvX

@@ionkight8853 Hi, As soon as time allows. However, this isn't a repair anyone should perform other than a service technician. Upon that you have an issue with the motor in that model Du All Camera would be the place to send it. Here's the link at the bottom. Thanks for viewing and the kind words. ~Paul~ Du All Camera www.duallcamera.com/

@@Bodegajuju Hi, Here's my video on what lubricant to use. If you want to get right to it start viewing at 16:40. No need to lubricate the motor. Only it's gear. th-cam.com/video/o4-b2-LMMaM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bfM6eGtnsbQauZel

@@kylerobertson , I just replied to you via your comment. My reply is within my previous reply. However, here's the two different batteries from B and H Audio and Video. Do read again my reply with what was pointed out. Thank you for the kind words and happy filming. B and H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell+battery+a14px+3v+alkaline+battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps

@@kylerobertson , Here's the second battery. B and H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/96457-REG/Wein_W9901201_MRB625_Cell_1_35v_Zinc_Air.html

@@fotovandenatuur Hi, My experience is with vintage movie cameras including vintage point and shoot. However, looking at the camera it seems like some pieces could be cracked underneath. That is what could be causing the issue. Best to send the Nikon D200 to a professional camera shop for repair. You don't want to get into servicing a camera and get overwhelmed at what can be in there.

Hi @thavari, I do have videos on a Non-Rex Bolex. But not of a Non-Rex viewfinder as of yet. Reason being that about every six months or less rust starts to form inside them. I will point out that your Bolex should get a professional CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment asap. This is because fragile parts such as it's governor could be rusted out. I have videos on that as well. It's highly recommend to 1St view those videos on the Non-Rex to get an idea of many situations. In my video the Non-Rex Bolex is filled with rust and unrepairable. However, a filmmaker gets to view the ins and outs. Keep in mind that a Non-Rex Bolex is more difficult to service than a Rex. It's highly recommend to send your Bolex to a service center such as Du All Camera. You would find that dismantling a Non-Rex Bolex is trying. To reassemble the camera can be worse. I would not suggest servicing that camera yourself. *Note: any mistakes you make to your camera and or to your person in any attempt to repair/service your camera are on you* Here's the link to Du All Camera www.duallcamera.com/

@@paulmorbid1476 I saw those videos :) thanks for replying so quickly!

You're very welcome @thavari.

Hi @ yakovendelman, As in my video what you see is what you get with servicing the Canon 514XL-S. Unfortunately it's just a terrible model as pointed out for the reasons in the video. Most likely this model was declined to be serviced when issues occured that were too deep to repair. Back over 30 years ago my shop would explain that this model would take so much time in labor that the cost wasn't worth it. Fisher VCR's were the same. Awful machines. The Canon 514XL is ok. However I'm not a fan of the Canon cheaply made lense housing system. Today it's worse because the cameras are 50, 60,70 years old. Nizo is good. But the dials are wearing out due to age. Bolex Super8 are some of the worst. Find yourself a Bauer, Gaff, Minolta and a Beaulieu just to name a handful. Send the camera to a technician for a CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment before filming with it it. I prefer Single-8. A Super8 camera can be far more difficult and time consuming to service. This is due to the pleather coverings that have to be removed. And some things were meant to be put together and not taken apart very much. This...is how companies made money in selling customers another camera. The Canon 514 XL-S is widely known to many as a camera to avoid. ~Paul~