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@@alexdigirolamo5062 Hi, Try applying heat via a hairdryer around the winding key area for about 45 seconds while at the same time hold down the shutter button. Keep in mind that It's motor is just behind there. Perform this action off and on until it's motor hopefully winds down. ⚠️Upon that it's motor isn't wound down before dismantling the motor would instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken ⚠️. ⚠️It's best to send the camera to a service technician for repair. Upon attempting to service the camera yourself any mistakes made to your/a camera and or person in any attempt to repair/service your/a camera are all on you ⚠️ These cameras are filled with tiny springs, micro screws etc that can get lost in the blink of an eye. Do not attempt to repair the motor. It's metal pressed together therefore not possible. Bolex never intended for the standard double 8mm motors to be repaired only replaced. Bolex only applied a small amount of graphite grease inside it's clutch motor. And now that lubricant has been dried-up long ago. Usually the issue with the motor not winding down isn't with the motor at all. It's most of the time with it's governor being, rusted and corroded. Hope this helps. ~Paul~

@@alexdigirolamo5062 , ⚠️By the way, upon that you do dive into dismantling the P1 before removing it's motor best to take photos of removing (slowly) the motor. Because the clutch motor barrel has a fixed limit gear on the bottom of it's motor barrel. And just under and an attached, removable small great that's set for timing so that the motor will only wind down to a certain amount of revolutions. Put your hand inside the camera holding it's motor while unscrewing the micro screws under the winding key. Not doing so while then after all micro screws are removed the motor will drop on to your work table loosing the small gear including the motor timing. Best to take as many photos as possible.⚠️

@@paulmorbid1476 thank you so much for the response! I really hope the hairdryer method works. After doing a lot of research and watching so many of your videos I do feel confident at least opening it up and getting a good eye on the parts. But definitely don’t want to if it won’t unwind all the way. Unfortunately I found the camera with film halfway used and it completely frozen. Not the best previous owner obviously

@alexdigirolamo5062 , Upon that the motor will not fully wind down it's best not to dismantle the camera. Concerning the previous owner many did that back in the day. The worst is when previous Bolex P3 owners packed that model away without removing it's power zoom battery. In that case owners of the P3 today where that was the case have found a corroded battery area that's a bit pricey to have repaired. Bolex made quality cameras ending with the P3. After that model the body style changed including the quality of the cameras. Camera motors became cheaply metal pressed together, many of the parts glued to each , cameras almost impossible or not possible to repair. Then the Bolex Super8 being horrible. The Bolex Super8 having high failure rates or just not worth repairing. Today the Bolex Super8 models are a joke of conversation as if any are available they probably don't operate at all. Therefore, you've got one of the best Bolex Standard Double 8mm movie cameras ever made. Just have it repaired, don't get it wet, don't take it to a sandy location and film with it. Keep it serviced every six months and it'll serve you well. Also, get the camera a nice protective hard case with pluck foam inside. You're very welcome and happy filming. ~Paul~

@@paulmorbid1476 thanks again Paul. Out of curiosity do you know of any good businesses in the United States that would service a Bolex P-1? Almost every one that I’ve contacted would not service it unfortunately.

@@ch2o2 Hi, Concerning my video the reason I haven't finished that repair as of yet is because I've many cameras and Sony Walkman that requires an "overhaul". As your question(s) read it's obvious to me that your cassette deck needs the same. This is typical of a cassette player/recorder from back in the day that was loved being in use very frequently. An (overhaul) will consist of dismantling, replacement of all capacitors (this is because of years of those caps as their job is to store current) be replaced with new ones, replacement of the pinch roller (the rubber wheel your commenting about) because as we know rubber deteriorates over time, and drive belt (s) on the units bottom replaced with the correct size(s), realignment of the unit, very possibly replacement of resistors including possibly other components, cleaning the unit, reassembly, then demagnetizing the head, capstan) that's where the rubber pinch roller pinches the audio tape between the pinch roller and capstan "rolling bar that's visible on top. Because the reason you're very possibly hearing distorted audio tape play back (upon that the unit plays cassettes at all) is due to long term use of the player/recorder. It's a bit of a long job. It's pointless to test those components (in my over 35 years of experience) due to long usage or years usage of the unit. Therefore, it's highly recommend to send that cassette player/recorder to a service technician who's seasoned in that repair. The components (such as the capacitors need to be replaced of high quality one's) as the job of capacitors of course are to store current. It's simply long term usage or years of use of the unit that has made those caps heat and cool, heat and cool producing wear and tear on those caps. The technician may even get to it's component board finding leaky caps wear an oozing substance has leaked out of those caps and or some may be about to blow or have blown (that resembles the top of a blown soda can left in a car during an extremely hot day. The thing to do is request from the technician an estimate for repair. The technician might even contact you later to inform you that the cost of labor would exceed the value of the unit. However, that would depend on how possibly sentimental you might be concerning the tape deck. Upon that you have more questions let me know. Hope this helps.

@@paulmorbid1476 ..thanks for your comment but it's NOT about electronics - the sound is still brilliant, there is still no need for 'recaping' whatever (as an e-engineer I know, how to fix that) - it's a transport issue, it is just the noise coming from the takeup-spindle and the idle part - I disassembled it several times but need to know, what's normal and what's not in playback-mode - is there on playback a slip clutch permanently working when the tape is pulled from the takeup spindle? (sorry for the complicated manner of asking ...I'm not a native speaker here) :)

@ch2o2 , @ch2o2 , I've taken a look at one of my Sony player/recorders that's dismantled to further check some possible issues that I could be missing. Do forgive me however that's just the way my brain's wired. As we both know all parts operate in unison for different settings such as play, ff, rew, record and stop. What have you noticed during your inspection. Was the unit dropped? Seems to me that an actuator(s) could be misaligned, not lubricated, lost or old worn spring, chipped gear tooth or so me e gears are misaligned etc. I've been looking inside a cassette player/recorder to help this issue as best that can be done without being by your side. Mechanical issues can be trying. In my expertise it's not always about one part. It's about "alignment" etc. After all parts are cleaned graphite grease is to be applied to some metal parts only. White Lithium grease no. 2 is to be applied to plastic mechanical parts and mechanical metal to plastic connected parts. This is because white Lithium grease no. 2 is safe for plastics. Upon that other lubricants are applied to plastics especially WD-40 those and that lubricant will melt the plastics. ~Paul~

@@paulmorbid1476 hi Paul ...thanks again - if I could add pictures or clips here, it maybe would help to describe the thing, which isn't right, but anyway: as far as I see now it's the rubber-ring who needs to be replaced first (the rubber-ring on this idler). It looks not too bad, but it's just old, and it's constantly loosing friction to the "rotor assy" (as Sony names it in the Service-Manual) - and that's where the noise comes from at first. All what I did so far is trying to out trick this issue with workarounds, I guess (changing the spring tension to press the idler even more firmly against the driving rotor stump (etc.) - however, this ultimately changed the balance of the mechanism and it no longer responded as desired ...idler did not switch perfectly etc... I'm now looking for this replacement part (which isn't easy, I'm afraid) ...thanks and greetings from Vienna

@ch2o2 , I see. I'll check a company in mind that usually has idler-tires and many times can cross reference them. True the 1St part to replace is an idler-tire. Because when they get age on them they crack, loosen, become gooey or shinny smooth. An idler-tire new is ruff in it's outer side in order to perform it's job in unison against another idler-tire or part. Give me time to check that company for idler-tires for the model you've provided me. It might have to be cross referenced and that could take that company time. Keep in mind that original idler-tire must be used. Going to a hard ware store seeking o-rings won't work. And never adjust a springs tension. Unless the unit is a Fisher and those products are to be avoided. ~Paul~ ~Paul~

@@IknowsPickin , You're very welcome. And thank you for the kind words.

@@jazzperbeats Hi, Most of the time the lens provide a macro effect. Upon that you're seeking perfection then most of any lens that works for these adapters would usually leave some imperfections on the sides of the processed film. A close-up lens shown in one video gives a super macro effect. Upon that the filmmaker is an experimental director then these lens are ideal. Looking forward to showing some footage of the lens in time. ~Paul~

@@HopefulForever-ln5xm , 1St make sure before dismantling the Bolex Standard Double 8mm movie cameras to fully wind down it's motor. Not doing so when then dismantling the camera the motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. Bolex never intended for the motor of the Standard Double 8mm Bolex models to be repaired. Only replaced. The motor appears to unscrew however this is not so as these motors were metal pressed together. Concerning removing the motor from the winding key area there's a big screw in the center. I have a video for this procedure. I'll get it for you as soon as time allows. ⚠️Upon proceeding with this procedure there's tiny springs and bearings beyond the winding key. In addition take photos and take close note 1St of how the motor sets inside the camera body. Because there's a gear beyond the back side of the motor close to the winding key (but not located in the winding key). That gear will fall out onto your work bench if you're not careful. That gear set's the timing as a limit gear. Be careful when unscrewing the big screw in the center of the winding key as the motor can fall out into your hand. Upon proceeding with this repair best to view the video in full 1St. *Any mistakes you make to your/a camera and or person (s) in any attempt to repair/service your/a camera are all on you. It's always best to send a camera to a service technician for repair* Thank you for the kind words. Take care. ~Paul~

@@HopefulForever-ln5xm , Here's the video. th-cam.com/video/p7TBlXJEtL4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-si1QaCiuU_yA4Yo

@@paulmorbid1476 Thank you so much! I'll take a look at the video.

@HopefulForever-ln5xm , Right on!

@@paulmorbid1476 What size flat head screw driver did you use to remove the large motor screw? I suspect my motor has gone bad. I did some light cleaning of the governor and the exposed gears (without removing the motor) and applied a slight amount of oil and the camera ran like new. Yesterday I wound the camera and the camera would no longer run. I suspect I may have broken the motor by over winding. Before I go an try to source a new camera motor, I want to remove clean the motor area just like you showed in your video....but I don't have a flat head screw driver thin and wide enough to remove the screw....so it would be helpful to know if you know the size of screw driver you used.

It's very much tutorial film for technicians.

@@bboutube7334 Hi, Some are in the Play List, some are simply within scrolling through the channel. Some I'm in the process of working on such as other camera models. As a PWD aka Person With Disability it takes me some time to complete some videos. Plus I'm working on my experimental horror film. More videos all in good time.

thank you! This is very much appreciated!

@@bboutube7334 The Bolex H-16 is a great camera.

@@paulmorbid1476 Indeed! Mine needs CLA. I'm doing the minor things myself and will take it to a specialist for the more complex things.

@bboutube7334 Hi, Reads good. In the U.S.A. Du All Camera. In that I recall in Australia Less Bosher and his son. Upon your interest these are the go to businesses. duallcamera.myshopify.com/

@ I am in Montreal, Canada…

@bboutube7334 Correct as I read that 1St. Keep in mind that independent filmmakers seek the service of theirs cameras to Less Bosher and Due All Camera.

@@MrPaultheguitar Hi, Maybe so. I've considered it. But I have recorded some surreal sound effects for the current experimental horror film.

@@bboutube7334 Hi, There's lot of Bolex videos. Here's one. Thanks for viewing. th-cam.com/video/2Yaz-ZXAQaM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KjR6TaSSc-6aaM0e

@@MrPaultheguitar Hi, Reads good. Jonas Mekus is one of the top respected experimental filmmakers.

@@howiehill Hi, The crank handle would have to be replaced. And the motor will have to be checked for damages. The Bolex would have to be sent to a service technician for repair. Less Bosher that I recall in Australia and his son (upon that I recall). In the U.S.A. Du All Camera. duallcamera.myshopify.com/

@@TAKENWTF1 Hi, 1St make sure before dismantling a Bolex (or any spring operated ) vintage movie camera to fully wind down it's spring motor. Otherwise upon dismantling the motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. Bolex never intended to repair the standard double 8mm motors only to replace them. The standard double 8mm motors are metal pressed together. Yes, the small Bolex standard double 8mm cameras are basically all the same. Each model is a bit different. It's really best to send a vintage movie camera to a service technician for repair. These cameras are filled with tiny springs, screws and other parts that can become lost in the blink of an eye. *To attempt to repair a vintage movie camera is at your own risk. Any mistakes made to a camera and or your/a person are all on you. You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words.

@@nicholassheffo5723 hi, Here are the facts as listed by filmkorn.org www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_fuji/fujica_zxm300sound.htm www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_fuji/fujica_zxm500sound.htm www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_fuji/fujica_zx550sound.htm www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_fuji/fujica_zm800sound.htm www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_fuji/fujica_z850sound.htm

@@M_santana26 Hi, CLA aka Clean Lube and Adjustment.

@ got yaa!! Have you made any vids on how to do it ?

@@M_santana26 , Many. On many different vintage movie cameras.

@@gazelbob5443 Hi, Yes. After the Bolex P3 it's really best to stay clear of standard double 8mm Bolex models concerning repairs. After the Bolex P3 quality went down hill. The square Bolex models after the P3 are mostly held together with glue. When finding you can't locate screws needed to loosen something in dismantling there are some tiny screws hidden behind the pretty aluminum that's held onto the camera with glue. The aluminum has to be heated off via a hairdryer then pulled up and removed using a thin tool such as a guitar pick. Carful not to bend the aluminum covers as they sell online for about $20.00 each U.S.D. Motors in standard 8mm Bolex models after P3 are cheap metal pressed. Not like the well held together film spring motors of passed Bolex models. When being unable to find other screws it usually means parts are glued together. This is why the Bolex models after the P3 are cheap in price. Sometimes they're even beyond repair. Thank you for the kind words. And you're very welcome. ~Paul~

@paulmorbid1476 Wow didn't suspect Bolex to glue stuffs !! Thanks a lot for your insights your work is really apreciated :) it's thanks to passionate persons like you that internet gets it's meaning

@gazelbob5443 , Also stay clear of Bolex Super8. They're notorious for breaking. You're most welcome and again thank you for the kinds words.

Hi @SadderGuacamole, Thank you for the kind words.

@@stikkisoxx hi Vintage Fujichrome can be processed at home for color. And b&w. I'm making experimental horror so knowing that the original Fujichrome will look bad that's the look I'm going for. When sending vintage film to a lab film rescue can process it but only in a negative. Upon that a filmmaker like myself wants to view our works via a vintage movie projector film usually has to be processed at home by the filmmaker. Retro8 in Japan processes vintage Fujichrome Single-8. However, it's unclear if they do so in both a + and -. Happy filming. ~Paul~

@@polaroidbarber hi, Thank you for the kind words.

@@benbiji2065 hi, Thanks a bunch.

@@paulmorbid1476 You’re most welcome

@@esra_erimez hi, The mercury batteries were used back in the day for some move cameras for the exposure meter.

They had the most stable voltage discharge curve of all the batteries at the time.

@@stevenmorris4482 hi, You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words.

@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Hi, It's your choice to use the original Bolex screw or the replacement. Just make sure that upon using the replacement screw that when the camera door is closed to check between the sides of the door and camera body to make sure the door is completely meeting (closed) on to the camera body. As for the other bent metal piece a photo would need to be sent to me via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid or Bolex Repair Philippines Fb Page. Upon that I'm reading your comment correctly you mean the pressure plate. Thank you for the kind words. ~Paul Morbid~

@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Hi, The supply spindle and take-up spindle should turn freely. This action can be tested by turning the take-up spindle and supply spindle with the fingers. The supply consists of a metal large washer, hard leather pad, a bent oval washer. No lubricant is to be applied to the supply leather pad. The take-up spindle is metal pressed into (in part) the film compartment plate. Upon that the take-up spindle becomes too hard to turn it's usually become rusted. A few drops of weapons oil can be applied to the take-up spindle inside the film compartment at the spindle base then let the camera sit up side down for about an hour. After that you can attempt to start turning the take-up with your fingers. ⚠️Best not to dismantle the take-up spindle ⚠️ Upon that you wish to do so and it breaks and or you get cut it's all on you. As I let everyone know when 1St getting a vintage movie camera it's best to send it to a service technician for a new CLA aka Clean Lube and Adjustment. A Bolex is made of 4 types of metals. Therefore they rust and corrode easy inside. The Door lock should turn easy yet a bit firmly. Upon that I'm reading your comment correctly it seems to me that the seller could have worked on that Bolex, either put it together with different parts and either it's door lock is misaligned and or the film compartment plate isn't put back properly. The silver door lock is to sit almost on to the black part of the door with a slight space in between. Opening the it's door is to take a push-in then clockwise. Closing is to push-in then turn counter-clockwise. The door lock screw could be stripped and or off-center. To help correct this make sure the screw it slightly tight (too much can crack the lock housing) then apply a drop of Lock Tight aka Thread Locker. This product can be purchased from a hardware store. *You're welcome to send me photos and videos of the issue including the position of the door lock (photo) via morbidteamentertainment@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid or X:@paulmorbid. ⚠️"If" you decide to dismantle the camera 1St make sure to fully wind down it's motor. Otherwise the motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. If that happens there's no choice but to buy a junk camera of the same model with a working motor. Bolex never intended for the Standard Double 8mm camera motors to be repaired only replaced. Those motors are metal pressed together ⚠️. ~Paul~

@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Here you are. How To Secure Door Lock Screw & Free-Up Supply & Take-up spindles On Bolex D8L th-cam.com/video/aEBFSe6AwlU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8m5oFq55jBhQCW_r

@@MrPaultheguitar Hi , I agree. And thank you for the kind words.

Hi stikkidoxx, The quality is ok or bad at times when filming with original Fujichrome. However that's the look I'm going for as it's avant-garde horror being filmed. Haven't tried the new Single-8 film from Click&Surr as they told me it's prohibited outside the E.U. Therefore I'm going to have to discover the correct notching system then drill it into the back of my original Fujichrome cartridges for 100D. Then load Kadak 100D into the original Fujichrome cartridges. In addition new Single-8 cartridge files can be down loaded via Jenny List and 3D printed in SLA. The machine must a high quality one. There's also a company in Italy and check if they will sell to me. Here's my link for loading Kodak 100D into a Fujichrome R25 cartridge. The nothing system is to be shown later when figured out. Thank you for the kind words. In the description of my video is the link of Jenny List to download the new Single-8 cartridges. th-cam.com/video/r-qcDTFKYxM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=M8inj1RIikKhwFE2

@@joshrodrigue7216 Hi, Check with Duallcamera. And thank you for the kind words. duallcamera.com/

@@JOEBLACK1979 Hi, Currently I'm working on an experimental horror film that's keeping me busy. In addition when I am available the repairs within the Philippines. This is because of laws on shipping metals outside the Philippines. ~Paul~

@@JOEBLACK1979 what seems to be the issue with your Bolex.

@@yousufsarfaraz2178 hi, When a Bolex motor is locked up don't wind it any further. One trick is to apply heat to it's motor via the silver turn key area. This is where it's motor's located. Do so for as 45 seconds off and on while pressing the camera shutter button. It's then possible the old lubricant inside it's clutch motor barrel would soften up so that the motor can be wound completely down.. *Note: Bolex didn't market the small Standard Double 8mm movie camera motors to be repaired only replaced* They are metal pressed together and can't be opened. The old graphite grease inside that Bolex 8mm clutch motor barrel usually has dried up over the decades. However, it's possible it'll start operating again after getting it moving. *Note:Bolex claimed the motors couldn't be over wound. But they can* Upon that your Bolex won't start working it's best to send it to a service technician for repair. It's not recommended to repair these cameras without experience.

@@peterkovacik1976 Hi, It could be that it's motor is out of synchronization after reinstallation. Or the spring in the clutch motor barrel broke. Upon the motor being broken another motor from a scrap Bolex P2 would be needed. Bolex never marketed the Standard Double 8mm (small camera motors) to be repaired only replaced. The motors in the small 8mm Bolex cameras are metal pressed together. This is the reason. An attempt to keep setting it's motor back correctly can be done. Or send it to a service technician for repair.

@@Tovohx Hi, Reads like it's the gear near the motor that's broken. Usually there's also a cracking noise with it. It's caused by the issue pointed out in my video. Solution: buy a different brand of camera. And not another Canon 514XL-S.

Hi @MrPaultheguitar, You're very welcome.

@@Coffeeology , You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words.

@@MauroTallerdeArteMauro , You're very welcome. ~Paul~

Sprin Motor non reflex 16 and 2x8 the same?

Hi @user-hc4gd6km5m, Forgive me for being unable to fully understand your question. However motors in various models can be different in Bolex cameras. ⚠️"If" your Bolex motor requires servicing it's best to send the camera to a service technician. That repair is for a professional ⚠️ Thank you for the kind words.

Hi @user-hc4gd6km5m, Forgive me for being unable to fully understand your question. However motors in various models can be different in Bolex cameras. ⚠️"If" your Bolex motor requires servicing it's best to send the camera to a service technician. That repair is for a professional ⚠️ Thank you for the kind words.

@@MORCOPOLO0817 Hi, As pointed out in my video the finished film will look vintage. It won't be crystal clear clean. It's going to look like a beautiful original vintage (that the film would be then) film. All those overlays that look like scratches for a vintage movie that repeat themselves about every 4 seconds are easily created by hand on an original vintage viewer/editor. Computers are only used by filmmakers who prefer that digital crystal clear look. From my generation during the 70's-80's this was understood. It's that when Single-8 and Super8 cameras were put away in grandad's closet for decades a new generation discovered them fortunately. And filmmakers such as myself are grateful this new generation of filmmakers shooting on film. When a filmmaker wants to make a movie so clean that the make-up of the talents face is visible that's too clean. It is to me. Otherwise, a filmmaker should just shoot digital.

@@paulmorbid1476 I guess my question is this: Are you making the film for your own personal enjoyment, to sell, put on the internet for others to enjoy or all of the above? if you plan on making money on it or putting it on the internet, computers will come into play at some point in the game. You will need to transfer it digitally.

@@paulmorbid1476 I guess my question is this: How do you intend to show the film and to what audience? Obviously if you are going to show it on the internet or distribulte it you will haved to at some point go digital. And if that is the case you will have to transfer it to digital. And in this case you might as well edit it digitally. I get the interest in using celluloid as a capture medium. Personally, I prefer film over digital for storytelling myself. It's your post production plans that I am curious about. If you are just making the film for your own personal viewing and friends and family then you can get away doing everything manually.

@@MORCOPOLO0817 , I understand your point however it must be understood that 1St bucket processing is superior over digital as that process at the beginning provides all the scratches and drop out needed. In addition, by hand adding effects via a bent paper clip (film scratching) with writing etc is king. Film painting including other effects of the like (check my experimental videos concerning these subjects) are added to the film. Plus adding chemicals to discolor the film with a brush. After that a film a easily be edited via a vintage viewer/editor. A dv cam is only needed to upload a movie to an online market. Also, there are other ways to make a film look trashy (as I put it). Of course films are to be sold. Then there's film festivals that (for experimental works) where vintage projectors are used to show films in the true fashion. Some secrets are mine and maybe one day I'll pass those on. Some that have been developed by myself and some from working with Star Wars talent when managing them years ago.