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I use it inline with my audio and would have it no other way!

Great news!!! Thanks for sharing!!! Sorry your sub went out but at least this was a resource to help you get back into the pleasure of these amazing subs! How did the install go? Any additional tips you can share for other folks to benefit? -Paul

Awesome!!! Glad you were able to get up and going again!!! Thanks for sharing the tips as well for others to take note. :)

Nice!!!! Thanks for sharing and I say that's a great workaround for the repair!

Hello ! Where did you order the parts from? Thanks!

Car trim puller plastic, screwdriver, low profile sharp wire cutter, soldering iron 100v 100uf cap.

@@dinhtran2166 Please see the video details as I pasted the cap part and website link in there. If the part is no longer available from that link, you'll have to source a part with the same specs from a different website. Hope that helps!

@@dinhtran2166 Please see the video details as I pasted the cap part and website link in there. If the part is no longer available from that link, you'll have to source a part with the same specs from a different website. Hope that helps!

Hey there! Sorry about the difficulties with the cap. I've been quite busy lately but wanted to at least respond. Here are my notes from my research with the purchase links, and the forum discussion links. I hope this helps and I would definitely go with a larger cap than the standard, and one with more hours on it. This info should be helpful: WHERE TO GET THE CAPS: THESE ARE THE ONES Randy from JL Audio responded to the guys email TO BUY!!!!!! 22,000 HOUR CAPS!!! Page 16 in the thread: www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=43298&page=16 C510 Nichicon 33uf, 400V, 20%, PTH, 7.5mm pitch x 16 mm D, radial, aluminum electrolytic, 22,000 hours , 105C capacitor C515 Nichicon 100uf, 35V, 20%, PTH, 2.5mm pitch x 6.3mm D, radial, aluminum electrolytic, 22,000 hours, 105C capacitor The other five caps I replace are just off to the left side of the housekeeping transformer. www.digikey.com/product-deta...mSeq=315170622 C508 100uF 35V www.digikey.com/product-deta...6-1-ND/6555950 C504 470uF 10V C506 470uF 10V C505 220uF 25V C507 220uF 25V www.digikey.com/product-deta...1546-ND/756062 - From thread but might hold off on these below… this is why I made the font super small….. Steve.......I ordered the capacitors online from Mouser Electronics. mouser.com Mouser #: 667-EEU-HD1V101 Mfr. #: EEU-HD1V101 Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 100uF 35volts 6.3x11.2 LS 2.5mm 1 $0.64 $0.64 1 Shipped Mouser #: 647-UVY2G330MHD Mfr. #: UVY2G330MHD Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 400volts 33uF 16x25 20% 7.5LS 1 $1.30 $1.30 1 Shipped MERCHANDISE TOTAL: $1.94 Order Total: $9.93 ----- CAP BUYING INFORMATION!!!!!!!!!!! GOOD TO KNOW FOR LONGER LIVING CAPS! doggiehowser.......I don't concern myself much about hours before failure since those hours can be doubled, even quadrupled by purchasing caps with higher temperature ratings and higher voltage ratings as commented by Tom in post #108. www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=43298&page=12 www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=43298&page=11 CAP CAPACITOR PURCHASE BUY DETAIL LIFE LIFESPAN INFORMATION Here’s what you do. Once you’ve taken the amp out of the sub enclosure, measure the size of the caps you are replacing. Diameter is usually the limiting factor for radial leaded caps. Then find a replacement cap that is the same diameter with the same capacitance rating and the highest working voltage and temperature rating you can find. If you have a choice, go for the longer base life part as well. A base life of 2000 to 8000 hours is a good target. 1000 hrs is low. The reason you select parts this way is that voltage stress and temperature stress are the two things that kill electrolytic caps. It’s not linear either. Doubling the voltage spec will increase life 2.65 times. Increasing the temp specification is an even bigger life accelerator. Going from an 85 C cap to a 105 C cap when the cap itself is at 50 C will increase the life 4 times. These effects are multiplicative. So all other things being equal using a 105 degree C cap with twice the voltage rating of the original will increase the life 10.6 times! I have simplified the math behind these assumptions and can point you to more info if you’d like. I used The ATT Reliability Handbook and MIL HDBK 217 to make these rough calcs.

@getfrog holy cow, this is amazing! Thank you!!

Good to know this video will help! I;m sorry yours is having problems and I hope this will help you. Take your time and go slow. It's not very difficult, just takes a little while to pull everything apart and put it all back together. Please let us know if it works for you and you have success! :)

@@thedanielsteamaustin oh my gosh 🥰 I never ever repaired any electrical device. And this repair was important to me. I just had the cap today in the mail. Did the switch, and my fathom f113 hast power again 🥰🫡 thank you sooooooo unbelievable much for this amazing video

@@thedanielsteamaustin and maybe my fathom was Apparat for to years and I los the screws for the backplate 🫣😞😪 what kind of screws are they? If you maybe could help me find the correct ones would be great 😊

@@hackebeilhank9015 So happy this was helpful!!! Enjoy that amazing sub!!! :)

@@hackebeilhank9015 For the plate amplifier screws, they are just typical wood screws. See the video timeline at 3:54 where I hold up one of the screws. The screws screw into the wood portion of the speaker enclosure, so a basic wood screw around that same size should do the job. I recommend buying a few different sized wood screws and try them out. Don't tighten them too tight, just so you can test them. Once you determine the best fitting screw, buy some more to complete the project. I do not know the size of the wood screw threads but they seemed like pretty common wood screws to me. They look to be about 1" long in length, so try various wood screws around that same length. Hope that helps and sorry I don't now the exact same size to share.

Thanks! Yes a relief indeed and they sound amazing! :)

That's awesome!!! You're welcome. Enjoy that bass!!!

Good to hear....I have to do mine (I have a pair and one is out). Waiting for caps. I have never soldered before....I hope it all goes well. I am mechanically inclined so cross your fingers. At 120 lbs they are not fun to move to a shop for a repair that is so easy to do at home. Did you check all the wiring for connectors? I assume they all have them for modular replacement.

​@@TheNoseman1 Best of luck and please update us after the repair to let us know how it went! For connectors, I updated the video with a text overlay at about 5:38 into the video, to help explain there is a connector located in the middle area of the long white cotton bundle of connectors. This will allow you to remove the plate amp portion for easier access to repair. Hope that helps!!

Excellent news!!! Glad this was helpful!!!

Sorry to hear. I have not experienced or read anything about this so it might be a separate issue. I wonder if the switch itself if having problems? I would double check with the repair job to confirm they did indeed replace the power on cap. Sometimes the main focus on subwoofer caps are the larger main power amplifier caps, so it is possible the power on cap was ignores since that is not typically the main focus for subwoofer caps. Please let us know what you find to others can also be informed of this issue. Best of luck to ya!

I'm not sure if the E subs had cap issues so might want to do your research. I haven't come across anything showing they did... About a "fix", I'm not sure about that either. Please share if you find any information to help others with E sub concerns. Best of luck to you!!! :)

Thanks!! My subs are form 2009 I believe (the version 1 models which have this issue and aren't made anymore). Now they make the V2 models with better caps from what I have heard. With this in mind, mint are well past the 3 year mark but yes JL does have warranty they honor.

Understood. You did a great video to be honest. A lot of hardwork but it paid off. Nice B&W speakers

Somewhat true…. The engineering and enclosure design accompany the woofer for the best optimal performance in a home theater application but yes I believe it’s the same actual woofer (possibly with a different foam surround for the designed application). The magnet structure was also re designed for the V2 models to handle more power.

You're welcome! I believe they used better caps in the V2's so you are likely ok. :)

I wish I could help but I'm not familiar with that particular sub/issue. Best of luck to you!!!

About $2,500 each so $5,000 for a pair of F113 V1.

@@getfrog thx sir just picked up a pair in mint condition for 2500. How do you connect them to a receiver since they have no lfe

@@johnlira3316 use the RCA connector. Sub OUT from receiver -to- red RCA input on the subwoofer. If you have (2) subs, use a splitter to run a RCA to each sub... or use the larger balanced connector cable to daisy chain them together. If you are unfamiliar with a few of these terms, you can use Google to find a ton of info on this, but this will at least get you started. :) Have FUN!!!

@@getfrog thanks sir

@@getfrog is sub out from the receiver the same as using the lfe out from the receiver

Agreed. I was really surprised as well.

And how do you pronounce it, if it's such a problem?

Gosh, I have not heard of this. Maybe make sure the screws are as flat as possible on the edge and try multiple holes slowly. My subs are from about 2006 and I think about the first year they made them. Mine came out like normal and are older, so I hope you are able to get yours apart as well. Someone commented previously that they used another technique so I'll paste their response here as well: @johnsonwu126 8 days ago I was able to use a soft mallet and nylon automotive trim pullers to shake loose the plate. ANYWAY MUCH APPRECIATE THE TUTORIALS!

@@getfrog thanks, I really appreciate the response. If I have any luck with an alternate method I’ll let you know.

Thanks for the heads up and glad this was helpful!! :)

From GOOGLE, here is the price at JL Audio: Fathom® f112v2-GLOSS 12-inch (300 mm) Powered Subwoofer, Black Gloss Finish $5,000.00

AWESOME!!! Glad we finally connected Elijah!!

Glad this video helped you out!! I honestly do not know if the V2 subs have the same cap as the old units or if they upgraded the cap. I assume they have a newer cap in the V2's but honestly, time will tell if they are a problem or not. I have not had any experience or data with the V2 models to compare. Best of luck to you!!!

I can't say for now if the V2's are more reliable... but so far they seem to be holding up. Time will tell. The V1's are tanks and put out some crazy bass... some of them just have the little cap that fails... I firmly believe the V2's are also capable of this simple fix if the problem shows up with them. And even though it might be an unfortunate inconvenience, it's not a deal breaker in my opinion for the quality of these subs. Of course this is my opinion from owning 3 FATHOM subs and about 6 JL Audio W7 car audio subs. :)

Great insight and thanks for the info and recommendations Fred! If you know how to refoam a speaker surround, it's not a difficult task and only cost me $50 for the foam and then the labor I put in. Of course I've refoamed about 100 speakers and NEVER heard or experienced anything with damage to the spider... I'm actually surprised they told you that, as it's is not a factor in my experience or opinion. Quite silly response from them actually.... ugghhh.... I would also make sure they are replacing the power on cap and not just the "power amp caps" which are the common ones people replace on subs. This cap is a different cap from the norm.

I asked him to replace all 6 caps. Not sure if anything else tends to fail as JL wouldn’t tell me lol. As far as the surround issue, yeah it sounded odd to me too, but he said they won’t do it and claims can have issues.