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@@Mike-is9zj Tell me about it. The Driver Side is always a pain in the ass to get to.. Especially when the 02 sensors are seized and stuck!!

I totally agree with you on that! It's some kind of voltage control/noise suppressor for the fuel pumps located in the tank. Crazy how the harness was once cheap (I bought it around $125) and now as you have said, jumped all the way to $162. Before you know it, it will be $200 and in most cases depending on the type of vehicle you have. You may or may not need two of those.💸🙁

Well you can try using Delphi pumps from Rock Auto and a new style connector (which normally comes in the package) and you shouldn't have any issues whatsoever (that's what I did on mine when I used to have the car, etc.). I know people that have used a brand new but oem style connector with a new aftermarket pump and have not had any issues later on. Similarly, the other way around, some have gone ahead and used an old style (oem) connector and then later on issues arose when a new fuel pump was installed with it. It's a hit or miss type of scenario. I believe these cars are very sensitive to abrupt and abnormal high voltage spikes, low battery, etc. Great comment by the way!! ✊💯

@@EvanTheMenace I did in fact buy that same pump you mention from rock auto. I plan on changing out the connectors because I think that is the primary problem for failure. I am trying to use the more robust beefier connector as I think it will hold up better. I'm not using thew oem. I sure wish the fuel pump itself wasn't such a nightmare to replace. It is the most difficult replacement I have ever experienced. I refuse to cut out body parts like many have done.

@@bigswolletx 2009

@@jppatterson8565 I appreciate the input!! I actually took it for a drive and after returning back home. I quickly looked over the charging system and I found it be operating normal. I do not believe the alternator is actually faulty or not working properly but I strongly believe tha the reason it is showing a voltage of 13.6 is because of the 1,500 watt sound system it has in the car (2 amps in the trunk and another underneath the driver seat). I think the cars running fine!! ✊🏻💯 Goodlooks my man!!

@EvanTheMenace looks great and sounds good man. Sometimes those head gasket jobs get to be a pain from the lack of room the manufactures give mechanics to work with. Good job though man, sounds and looks great!

@@EvanTheMenace also people with these crazy sound systems and don't put a capacitor in-line still blows my mind. On a heavy bass hit, they really tax the voltage regulator with its attempts to keep up.

@@jppatterson8565 Thank you man, I greatly appreciate it!! I think I did a pretty good job. I did take my time and I did double check my work more than once to make sure I did everything as right as possible. Crazy thing with the headgasket thing is that I was watching a video from a guy with a Jeep Trackhawk at RSP Performance and the owner of the place was saying that these hemis or that the hemi blocks in general have very little surface area for the head to clamp down onto along with the headgasket that is installed with it. So pretty much why many have headgasket issues.... pretty interesting to know. Good looks my man ✊💯

​@@jppatterson8565 I super agree with you man!! The funny thing is that I bought the car like that and I did not do the install on it. Crazy how some people or how you take it to a shop or to somebody and they do a shitty install, blows my mind but people do not do things right from the very beginning..

There's actually a bolt hole that comes like that from the factory, that allows you to insert (something in this case a catch can) and tighten down the bolt to the bracket to the engine block where it is located, etc. It is located on the front of the engine block right next to and near the area of the thermostat housing, timing cover, valve cover, and intake manifold. It's a very tiny bolt hole. It's in that area/vicinity, etc. Hope that helps!!

@@_Srt-616 I got you bro!! Im going to do a video on how it sits, right now, I'm loving the look of the rears, I might do the fronts as well!!

@@EvanTheMenace💪.. that was what was holding me back. I wasn't sure if the back being lowered on the eibachs would match the stock height up front. You da man Evan !

I sure can!!! I did actually record how it sounds inside the cabin. Both cruising around normally and of course opening it up alongside some flybys. I just need to finalize the video edit and I should have it posted sometime later this weekend or early next week! ✊💯 Thank you for reminding me and for the great video idea as well!!!

@EvanTheMenace sounds great brotha, thanks for these videos I have a 2010 model and I'm just a couple clicks away on shipping it but just want to make 150% sure its the one I want. Thank you!

A+A+

@@MrMoonsilver Yes, the glass is removable without having to take everything apart!

You are amazing, thank you so much! Keep up tue great channel, really useful and well made content there!

@@danielpichardo4878 Yes they are!

Sorry about that! Just the way the video went and how it was taken during that time! Next time, it will be short and sweet!

Honestly, I do not want to say because if I were to sell it, then people will know or use that number against me and it will be difficult to try and sell the car with the right number in mind (meaning the number I would want to get in terms of price), later down the line, etc. I would honestly fix it if possible as opposed to parting it out. Although parting it out may be more difficult you may fetch more as opposed to selling the car as is. I was able to fix it because I am mechanically inclined and I did not put much into it as it wasnt that bad of a fix to begin with. Hope that helps!!

@@EvanTheMenace thanks for the reply, I understand. I’ve considered replacing my head gasket but would rather just sell it as is and be done with it. I have little to no extra time to work on it

@@redthebarber9611 I agree with everything you just said. Not everyone has time or the means to be able to fix a car with a blown head gasket. What I would say is look at what a low mileage 300c srt8 is selling for in roughly good to excellent condition and minus $5 to about $10,000 off the price and that should give you the realistic price you should sell it around at. Hope this finally bit of information helps you!

@@EvanTheMenace thanks, that does help.

I gotchu G! Here's the link: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3739803&cc=1443403&pt=7556&jsn=876 Also, there's other ones you can look at as well, if you're interested but I have no complaints with the ones I went with initially. KYB's for the win. Hope that helps!

@@EvanTheMenace I went with the KYB EXCEL-G Thank you!

Motor does not need to come out nor does the supercharger!! First, you will need to buy a good universal crankshaft puller tool (either from amazon, Ebay, etc) or buy the specific one for our Jaguars (which I bought from Ebay). After that you can remove the big crank pulley and remove the timing cover to remove and install the new timing cover seals (both top and bottom). Then reinstall everything back together. When reinstalling the crank pulley, you can reuse the same bolt (just clean the threads and apply red loctite) or buy a new one from the dealership or from anywhere online, etc. After that, you can torque the crank pulley bolt down to 275ft pounds! Hope that helps!!!

@@EvanTheMenaceThank you a lot!)

@@EvanTheMenaceBefore, do I need to remove a radiator fan?

@@AndreasRitt Anytime my man!!

@@AndreasRitt Yes!! Radiator fan needs to be removed to allow for more access/room to install the crank pulley tool!!

My 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8. Mine were located one on the Driver Side Inner Fender Liner Wall, Passenger Side Inner Fender Liner Wall and the other one in the Right Rear of the vehicle, towards the trunk space/area underneath. After some reading online: There are two tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) available for the 2007 - 2013 Chrysler/Jeep Compass and Patriot, a base system and a premium system. Personally, what I would do, just to be sure, if possible, is that you will need to check/pull the fender liner area in the front side (both sides of the vehicle) and specifically check to see where they are and how many you have. Also, do the same for the rear. Also, to note, make sure you buy good quality TPMS Sensors for your tires. Sometimes, the sensors you buy may actually throw off the reading and/or cause a system error within the TPMS module itself. When I first bought the Jeep, I opted to buy cheap ones from Amazon. Later on, I was having a hard time figuring out why the TPMS module was not working and/or displaying the same error code. I decided to change the TPMS sensors (one was not displaying up on the dashboard anyways) with some higher quality ones from Rock Auto and that solved my issue!!! Hope that helps!!

Good eyes! It was the light mist of fogging oil that I sprayed which I then wiped down (off camera) in those areas to remove the fluid that you see present in the video. It was overspray!

@@EvanTheMenace gotcha but it will still cause a hydrolocked stud. Glad you got it sorted before assembly

No! Jaguar XJR Cylinder Head! The same concept applies for any cylinder head though.

No, no! Prior to this, I actually had connected my leakdown gauge because I was getting a misfire in two different cylinders (cylinders 5 & 7). Which prompted me to further diagnose and find out the current health of the motor. So I decided to hook up my leak down tester gauge, I inputted 100psi on the left gauge and on the right gauge I was getting 77 psi (showing roughly 22psi of leakage). While the gauge was hooked up still, I was hearing air hissing around the valve spring area (valve covers off) as well as air filling up the crankcase or the bottom of the motor after pulling the oil dipstick and hearing air rushing up from it. So I pulled the cylinder heads (bottom of the block will be coming to replace the piston rings) and I decided to look at it using this method demonstrated in the video and also help others as well. Doesn't hurt to test and verify that the valves are actually leaking and to also double check your work! Great Question! ✊💯

Pretty well actually! No complaints! The jeep rides pretty smoothly, it's nice and firm and the rear shocks seem to handle the imperfect roads well! Way better than the blown original shocks that were on it before! However, if these shocks ever do go bad, I do plan or do want to try the RANCH shocks from RockAuto, just to see how they will perform on the road

Glad to hear, I’m looking around at shocks for my 09 at the moment. Trying to get some input before I make a decision

Yes, I have! Super easy! You can easily find them on rockauto or any other website that is offering them for a good price. Jack the rear end up, spray the bolts with some penatrating fluid, remove the old sway bar end links and install the new ones in the reverse order! After the install, you'll notice that the rear end is much tighter especially when going over small imperfections or uneven surfaces in the road! Hope that helps!

@@EvanTheMenace thank you!

Yes I do! Got them off Amazon: Scosche Compatible with Select Import and Domestic Vehicles Universal 6" x 9" to 5.25" - 6.5" Speaker Adapters (1 Pair) SA69, black a.co/d/3Pz7pKZ

Yes, it is! It's a 2001 Jaguar XJR (US Model - Non R1) with factory suspension. Nothing has been touched, changed or modified, etc. Everything is all original!

@@EvanTheMenace well thank you for your content my man I appreciate that make some more! I still have stuff to fix on mine 😂👍

Thanks man! I greatly appreciate it! I'm not entirely sure but I believe it has to be the one on the far left side (facing rear bumper straight at it). I believe that the rear sensors are numbered: 11, 10, 9, 8. In that specific order, if I'm correct. However, if it isn't, you have to remove the rear bumper anyway to get access to all the sensors regardless. What I would do is remove that sensor, install the new one, clear the code and see if that works (code should not come back) if that sensor was actually malfunctioning or bad to begin with. If that wasn't the case continue on to the next sensor and so on and so forth. Hope that helps!

Well on mine, when I would put it in reverse that light bar wouldn't illuminate (service park assist) and reversing I would not hear the indication beeps (as you backup the beeps get significantly louder) letting you know you are close to something, etc. I immediately knew something was wrong with that piece or something correlated to that. So, I hooked up my scan tool and went into the body module and found that code associated with the service park assist (light bar for reverse indication). I looked for an Ebay replacement part, hooked it up, cleared the code and the unit was working perfectly again. If you believe, the sensor's in the rear bumper are not working, more than likely a code would be present for the sensors. Hope that helps!

Great Question! At the time of doing the oil change I had already enough extra oil laying around in the garage from the previous oil change I did on the Jeep SRT8. In which the Jeep SRT8 and the 300 SRT8 take the same exact oil OW-40. With that being said, I had just purchased some Liquid Moly Additives from Amazon and it was a lot cheaper to just buy the additive and add it in as opposed to just being the Liquid Moly Oil W/ Additive inside. In my case (scenario) this is how things played out for me..

If you follow the video you will be able to accomplish it, I don't remember exactly what I did step by step as I don't have the car anymore but you need to open the black antenna casing and on the inside open the circular plastic housing holding the antenna looped around the circular teeth. You will need to fiddle and mess with it till you get the old one out and the new one in. It can be a little annoying/tricky. Use different tools, lubricants and methods of getting it out if it's stuck inside the metal shaft portion, etc. It's very difficult to help or offer assistance during a situation like this, especially when you have your hands on it. You're the only one that can make it happen!! You got this!! Hope that helps!

Ok yes I have watched the video but in the case of the video it jist came out. I don't want to break anything. I have taken the while thing apart and such but I jist can't seem to get the antenna out of the sleeve. Do you know if it can come out the top or does it have to come out the bottom. I know the new one goes in through the bottom.

@@tainchains I believe I may have pulled mine from the top meaning where the silver antenna portion is. If yours is stuck, spray some lubricant in there first and give it some soft pulls before you give it a real good one pull for it to come out or just cut below the shaft to cut and remove the teeth on the old antenna so if you do in fact pull on it hard. It does not hank the teeth around the circular white piece (not sure what it is called) and breaks the white piece in the process. Keep messing with it, you will eventually get it out!! Lubricate that new antenna well so it does not get stuck again!!

Thank you man, I appreciate it! Yes and a big difference over the blown shock and the old but still working bilstein shock still functioning on the left hand side (rear driver side). Absorbs the road, bumps and dampens very well, no complaints. Well worth it especially since I got both for around or close to $200ish dollars. As opposed to one bilstein shock which at the time was going for around $250. Hope that helps!!

@@EvanTheMenace understood 🤝

Correct! All models from 98-03 whether xj8, xjr, vaden plas, etc. Share common parts, not all but some parts are basically the same!

@@EvanTheMenace where did you finally end up getting your alternator? everyone wants a crazy amount of many for something as simple as an alternator.

@@ColbyWible I bought it from FCP Euro as they offer lifetime warranty so if the alternator ever goes bad, you can send yours to them and they will send you a new replacement part

@@EvanTheMenace thanks for the tips and the website