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Jack Darr that is! Even his tv ones have some great fault finding approaches.

@@Sophiedorian0535 , This video barely scratches the surface of my electronics-related book collection. I'll post another video or 2 when I get a chance.

@ Please please do!

The pricing seems quite reasonable.

…and now that I’ve finished the video, it seems you may not realize that this Quinn set is a clone of the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit, which is the iFixit Mako set plus the extra tool wrap. I got most of the extra tools from another tool kit (iFixit “Essential Electronics”) but the plastic things are mostly consumables. The Quinn costs nearly twice as much as a refurbished Mako and barely less than a refurbished Pro Tech Toolkit. Yes, iFixit has the JIS bits too. The refurbs have lifetime warranty and they claim that anything less than perfect is replaced with new as part of refurbishing.

​​@@emmettturner9452, interesting; I'm only vaguely familiar with I-Fixit and I've never hard of their Mako tools before. Of course, Harbor Freight posts online coupons and has periodic special deals for members, which might make one of these kits a more attractive deal for some. As I mentioned in the video, I have several other mini-screwdriver kits that were about one-third the cost of this one, but this one has bits the others lack, and vice versa. My biggest gripe with any kind of supposedly "comprehensive" tool carry kit is that they *NEVER* leave blank space where you can store separately obtained bits to flesh out the kit with the types and sizes they neglected to include! PS, why would there be "refurbished" tool kits consisting of only hand tools and screwdriver bits? Returns that were damaged by the person who bought and returned them? These are manually operated tools, they're no't electrical or electronic ! Anyway, thank you for the detailed comments.

It seems like all of TH-cam has been talking about them now that Linus Tech Tips made their own kit directly targeting the iFixit Mako. iFixit was a partner with them and sees it as back stabbing, so bridges were burned and YT drama flowed free. I’m seeing the LTT Precision Driver in my subs from Project Farm, Funk FPV, and others. Strangely, I started getting iFixit toolkit ads on TH-cam only after all of this. I think I even got one on your video! That said, the LTT precision driver alone is supposedly sold as an upgrade for iFixit owners and one of my kits could use it (someone else lost the original), but even with the Black Friday sale it was way too much money. It’s literally 50% more than their entire iFixit Mako set I got Sunday… for ONLY the bitdriver (handle)! Since I got a whole other kit I figure I can wait and see if it is any cheaper for Boxing Day (Linus is Canadian) or New Year’s Day.

@@joemcgraw5529 , Terriers: they put the I in terror! We had a Cairn Terrier that we adopted when she was 7 and her elderly owner died. She was a great dog, very cuddly and friendly to humans and other dogs alike, but she had a stubborn streak: We had to walk her somewhere different every day and skip a couple of days between going back to any particular trail or park because if you took her to the same place 2 days in a row she would completely refuse to walk with you on the 2nd day in that same place. She would dig in her feet, and it's amazing the extent to which a short 25 pound dog can become like an engine block! You couldn't drag her unless you exerted enough pressure that you might hurt her. We tried putting a harness around her chest and back but it made her completely catatonic and she would stand like a statue and not move at all. She was a very odd dog, but endearing; She would share a dog bed with my 120 pound male Anatolian and cuddle right up next to him, and their coloration was so similar that you could hardly tell where one dog left off and the other began! PS, The only dog of the 3 that will pull you around if you don't use a harness and keep a tight grip on the leash is Molly, the lab/pit mix. The Anatolians are slow walkers, and very gentle, and a child could walk them.

Even nearing 70, my wife has a head of thick, wavy, brown hair (with a touch of grey); mine is thin, silvery-white, and opaque. At this point, there's very little buildup of human hair in the shower drains!

@@emmettturner9452 , Bagless vacuum cleaners are terrible for a number of reasons. Firstly, they never filter as well as a good bagtype vacuum no matter their supposed HEPA rating. Second, bagless vacs run fine dirt particles into the air-cooled motors, causing premature motor-bearing wear (and a constant smell of dander when the machine is operated). Finally, although a bagless vac appears to be picking up an enormous amount of fur every time you use it, they actually fluff the debris up to many times its actual volume/mass, so much so that you could take that giant handful of fur out of tge chamber and squeeze it in your hand down to the size of a ping pong ball or even a shotglass. The amount of compacted fur in that bag which I change out once a month would equate to dozens of cycles of cleaning the chamber of a bagless vacuum! This vacuum is about 7 years old; the motor is guaranteed for 5 years and the belt is guaranteed for life, and other than filters, the only part I've ever changed on it is the roller, once, earlier this year. The local colleges all use a fancier version of the same brand (with motorized automatic roller-height adjust, particularly helpful when transitioning from carpet to hard floors) because they're virtually impossible to kill. If you've watched my videos of the e-waste dumpster at the local dump/transfer station, there are always lots of thrown-away vacuum cleaners in there, including expensive machines like Dyson, but I have never seen a Sebo in there! The only disadvantage is the price, about $550 for this model (the Dart) nowadays, and the bags are about $5; but they work great and they're built to last. I've had Hoover's and Bissels in the past, and I'd invariably end up changing a belt every 6 months and removing wrapped around, stringy debris from the roller, which requires a screwdriver to remove it; and they'd only last a couple years before the motor became excessively noisy and the machines started loosing suction. The roller comes out of the Sebo in seconds, without using any tools.

@@emmettturner9452 ps, the Sebo has a window-like guage on top of the cannister that indicates airflow becoming restricted as the bag fills up, or if the hose is clogged.

Awesome! I just like being able to use Dyson V8 as a hand vac where I don’t even have to let go of the grip to empty it… especially when I’m outside cleaning the car or something. Works great for getting litter back in the litter box too. Recently got a V7 stick vac with a seized motor (Goodwill find) that was an easy fix. Can’t see how anyone could spend hundreds on these things!

I have yet to find a cordless handheld vacuum that I really like. I particularly want something that is good for use on the carpeted stairs, whether corded or cordless, but the couple I've had in the past weren't all that ergonomic. Definitely need to have a motor-powered roller/beater brush when vacuuming the carpeted stairs, but the Hoover hand-vac I bought some years ago, which worked fairly well, lost a piece from the roller attachment, and the parts aren't available.

I also add a small handful of cloves or mull-mix spices (for making mulled aplle cider) to the bag when I change it so that it actually smells really nice when you run the vacuum! cleaner

@@zacharycavanaugh4023, I bought compatible T-18 tips directly from Hakko USA for $6 to $7 each; the inside diameter is 4.05 mm and they fit the heating element snugly. These work much better than the Schneider-supplied tips.

@@TheMorganOrgan , the very first video I ever posted was of a similarly full dumpster, earlier this year. This unsustainable mess is ongoing. I've rescued some good usable/repairable stuff from here ---- hifi equipment, guitar amps, speakers etc. ---- but I can't save it all. Not only am I running out of space in my garage but I can't see or reach what's at the bottom of those cardboard bins. The whole thing makes me sick to my stomach, especially when I see a pile of vacuum cleaners because I know from experience as a volunteer repair tech for the local Repair Cafe that most vacuum cleaners are easily repairable just by unclogging them and installing a fresh belt or filter as needed. We're not actually supposed to scavenge from this dumpster but the guys in charge of the facility don't enforce it because they feel pretty much the same as we do. When I filmed this yesterday another guy said that he found a working laptop there.

@@goodun2974 it’s so sad, pretty much the same here in the U.K. and probably everywhere else.

@@emmettturner9452 , It's a shame that Apple products can't be composted because in my estimation the company is crap regardless of their product's merits, or the lack of.

You're very welcome!

@@vintageguitaramp_guitarteacher my pleasure! You yourself are a "giver" as well, not a "taker", and I salute you for it. There's lots of useful info in our noggins, and we may as well share it while we're able. Can't take it with us!

@@sheenalauj8441 , you're welcome! PS, I goofed when I called it a DIN plug; DIN plugs don't have a screw-on collar and the pin diameters and spacing are likely to be different. I don't recall what this type of connector is, or was once called, but they are, or once were, more commonly used for microphone/transmitter use. DIN plugs are used by other soldering station manufacturers such as Hakko, but in my experience the screw-on connector used here is more reliable, less likely to overheat and become oxidized and resistive.. By the way, I have a lot of experience with DIN and similar connectors because I was a car stereo installer in the 1980s, when most major radio and amplifier manufacturers weren't using RCA jacks for amplifier hookups, they were using DIN plugs of 5 to 8 pins, and every manufacturer wired their DIN inputs and outputs to a different standard. I spent a lot of time making DIN to DIN adapters so you could use Alpine and Kenwood equipment interchangeably.

@@sheenalauj8441 , If you find compatible soldering irons, whether they're exact plug-in replacments, or need to be adapted/rewired to work, let us know!

There is a 2 year old TH-cam video from LahisTech where they upgrade a similar-looking iron (with a 5 pin, not 7 pin connector), from a digital soldering station I didn't recognize, to use a Hakko element, but the "Hakko" appears to be a counterfeit part. The video did include resistance measurements, which I hadn't thought to include (and which I should probably add); but their video has no narration, only a few captioned explanations, and parts of it are sped up so much that it's difficult to see what is being done. I had to use the half or 3/4 speed setting in order to be able to follow what was going on, and the annoying instrumental music that accompanied that video was even more annoying when you slowed it down and it became distorted.....😖

​@@goodun2974 From my notes, the Schneider soldering iron "wand" and the Hakko FX-88801 "wand" are a 1-to-1 swap and upgrade. (The term "wand" is my word to refer to the soldering iron component, not the manufacturer's or subject-matter experts' choice of word. It simply acknowledges one component when the whole product includes the wand, station, and stand.) THE BAD: The Hakko FX-88801 wand uses a 7-pin male connector, while the Schneider wand uses a 7-pin female connector. The entire Hakko wand can replace the Schneider wand, but it requires desoldering the 7-pin connector from the Schneider wand and resoldering it onto the Hakko wand. This is not a simple task as the wire color and pin position are not a mirror matchup so diagrams and electronic component knowledge are essential. Please be warn, you risk a 99.9999% chance of breaking the connector (by melting or incorrect wirings leading to catastropic failure). Hakko FX-88801 7-pin connector diagram: runawaybrainz.blogspot.com/2014/08/hakko-fx888d-din-connector-pinouts.html THE GOOD: --Wattage: The generic Schneider wand is likely a 50-60 Watt soldering iron, while the Hakko FX-88801 is a 60 Watt soldering iron. --Tips: Both the Hakko FX-88801 and Schneider wands use T18 soldering tips. --External/Internal Components: The Schneider wand is likely a Chinese clone of the original Hakko FX-88801 wand or built from the same design blueprint. The external tip retainer and twist-cap component, internal heating element, and boards are interchangeable. The heating element is a direct swap, and while the boards may not look identical, they will fit size-wise (circuit board knowledge sold separately, lol). --Upgrade: Using Hakko components is considered an upgrade due to the high-quality Hakko branding. Note that individual parts' manufacturers may not necessarily be Hakko itself; I am consolidating all manufacturers under the Hakko brand name for this discussion. Identifying individual parts manufacturers will require additional product research; see the Hakko FX-888D product manual for individual parts numbers.

@goodun2974 Most of my notes where comprised over 5 years ago. Pre-Covid there were alot of discussion of this item which were the source of my notes. It appears all the social media forums and discussions have since been scrubbed off the net so there's no one source that I am able to point to so I apologize for that. Additionally, I didn't bother to write down any other manufacturer's wand because the Hakko FX-88801 is the #1 in the tier list of swapable wand. Also Hakko is a consumer favorite brand when it comes to soldering iron so repair parts etc are high quality and easily sourced. While the whole FX888D product might be expensive at $125+; the FX88801 wand itself is only $20-40 which is what you will find most reusable non-variable wands priced at so it's worth it assuming you have a working station. Any wand you find under $30 isn't labeled as a onetime use wand but don't expect prolonged or getting past 10 occassions of use.

Thanks! 😊

They don't have it at my local shop, I'll have to drive a town over, they have some in stock, maybe find a bigger harbor freight in the process...

@@ReelSpider , sometimes it just uploads this way for some reason I don't understand; it might be a function of the TH-cam "Studio" app, perhaps because they're hoping I'll allow them to chop a piece out of my video and turn it into a "Short", but I don't and won't. I hate Shorts, hate the concept; and I don't want them to stick a bunch of ads in front of or during the video. If I can figure out a better way to format, I might repost some of this stuff. Right now, I'm just trying to get some usefull info out there !

​​@@ReelSpider, I'm curious if you bought one of these; upon further research it is apparently a rebranded Atten AT937. The $120 digital version sold by HF is stamped Atten ST80 on the control board and uses a different iron (different connector and heating element). A review of that model will be coming soon! Replacement T900 or 900M tips are easily available (genuine Hakko T18 tips made of plated copper and designed for a snugger fit to the heater would likely improve performance) but I'm still searching for a source for exact, or guaranteed-to-be-compatible replacement irons and heating elements.

@@goodun2974 Still haven't gotten one. Just been too busy to get over there. Been a hectic month.

One should, of course, never file or sand quality-made soldering iron tips because this will remove the (iron) plating from the tip, and exposed bare copper will quickly oxidize, pit, corrode and dissolve from molten solder and flux. On the other hand, if the tips are iron or steel throughout, as so many cheap tips bought online directly from China or included with inexpensive soldering station kits are, it might not matter if you filed them because the base metal is iron and not copper! I will be ordering some genuine Hakko tips to substitute onto my cheap soldering stations for improved performance, but it may be interesting to take some of the cheap, conical, *solid iron* tips that I don't like and never use and cut/file them down into a chisel shape and see if they'll last a while or if theyll dissolve, pit and oxidize or corrode....

@@TheMorganOrgan you're welcome! In the near future I'll post additional video of me putting scratch brushes to use on electronics projects; people have also asked me to do a video about soldering, which I've been doing for about 55 years, and so there will be overlap between the two subjects. (Many scratch-brush tutorials on TH-cam are filmed and posted by model-makers who use them for removing decals and labels), Anyway, when you buy a couple or a set of scratchbrushes, be sure to remember that the retracting mechanism on the cheap ones tend to break or don't hold the brush at the same position/extension when you're working with it, and that the brush itself might not be replaceable. Probably best not to buy them from Temu or Alibaba; and many Amazon sellers have a similarly non-transparent Asian supply chain. The brands seen in the video are trustworthy.

@@TheMorganOrgan PS, I didn't monetize any of my videos, and don't allow "others" to make Shorts! from them, and so I'm curious if you saw any ads before, or popping up during the video. I suspect TH-cam doesn't allow content creators to see the extent to which their videos might perhaps be monetized without express permission.

@@goodun2974 I have premium so nothing came up.

@@goodun2974 thank you for the tips, never bought anything off Temu, and try to avoid Amazon at all costs.

​​@@TheMorganOrgan I intend to do a deeper dive into using these tools for electronics work, as well an exploration of the various adhesives that I find useful both for electronics repair and for around the house repairs, and for when I participate in the local Repair Cafe events ( there's one coming up this weekend). People have also asked me to do a video about soldering and so I'll get to that eventually as well....