วีดีโอ

All the parts used are listed in description. If you're doing the expanded battery I'd get it from here www.adafruit.com/product/2011. If you want to replace just the battery with the same that it came with you will have to order from aliexpress www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180511144110&SearchText=452050-2p or alibaba most likely. I was never able to source the right battery from anywhere like amazon

@@sloth8871 thanks a Lot an whitch loading device did you Order for the Lithium Ion Battery - 3.7V 2000mAh

@@David-mc3uw the 2000Mah I got from the first link in my last reply, adafruit.com but to be clear that battery does NOT fit as a direct replacement to the original battery its quite a bit larger. for an original equivalent battery from Ebay see here www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=452050-2p&_sacat=0

Hi, the 2000mA battery replaces the old one and charges directly via the Adafruit board that has to be added to the system. The system works perfectly fine pulling power from the new battery through the Adafruit board without any major issues. I *think* that the collar will start to beep at you warning of a low battery after 800mA has been discharged but the collar will continue to run for a very long time on the new batter. Once the battery is charged fully the collar won't beep until the expected 800mA is depleted.

Thank you Manuel, that helped me a lot!

Hi Manuel. I was almost loosing hope, and was watching the video to see if I could managed to find the USB wires connections. Wondering if someone watching the video had the same problem I’ve found your comments. Have you replaced the uSb plug with a pre wired usb?

the link in the description for OEM battery still works: www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180511144110&SearchText=452050-2p

I would definitely start with the ribbon cable as it's the easiest and cheapest part to replace. Which side or part of the collar are you squishing to get it to come back? the right hand side has a box with the main board and wiring harness, the ribbon cables just travels over to the left side for power and buttons. if it's right side I'd say it's a coin toss of the ribbon cable is the problem.

Hi, check video description for links for parts. Ribbon cable is the first link and still works.

@@sloth8871 The ribbon cable I dismanteled is 28 cm. As far I can see there are ribbon cable of 30 cm aswell. Isn't that enough?

@@willysoetewey1372 as long or longer than the factory one should fine. I went with a longer one just to be sure and to receive any stress on that cable from pulling the neck roll open to put the helmet on

Battery links in the description still work: www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180511144110&SearchText=452050-2p

Hi Steve, it's been a while since I opened my collar but I do know that the USB cord for charging ties into the main cable that plugs into the board on the right side. a standard USB cable has 4 wires: power, ground, data, data. the 5th wire you are seeing may be coming from the other side of the collar for the buttons and battery to connect and charge. If you need to replace the female USB end from the original setup i would simply cut the existing female end off, buy a new female USB extension cable and cut that end off then match the wires color for color back together. any functionality should be preserved that way here a reference pic of a how a usb cord is wired : www.electroschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/usb-wiring-connection.jpg?fit=1024%2C768.

@@sloth8871 thanks for reply every USB I have have cut open has different colour or number of wires here a picture of the wires coming from the collar

I have 5 wires black red brown orange and yellow

steve todd I don’t see any pictures but the wires coming out of the collar aren’t all going to the usb cable. A Usb cable only has 4 pins so it only has 4 wires

th-cam.com/video/28-6cdw9TbM/w-d-xo.html

The connector that goes to the board splits off to the usb connector and to the battery. The usb cable is for power only which means only the black and red *should* be connected. I did not replace the factory usb cable I added a device to directly charge my battery. My reocmmendation for you if you need to replace the female usb port only to would be cut the factory USB cable in the middle and then solder your new cable to the factory wire s that lead into the circuit board and plug. I would not try and separate the factory wiring to get an entirely new USB cable in there. If you do go that route though I would assume you only need to trace the black and red from the USB

there is no balance that I am aware of. Maybe in the SRC software you can download on the PC. unfortunately if the speaker is failing or the wire is failing the only real fix would be tracing that wire and seeing if it has a break or a crimp in it and replace the speaker wire to that speaker.

i guess it's kinda randomly asking but do anyone know a good website to stream new series online?

fw1421 video description has full parts list. Ribbon cable and battery are first two links from AliExpress.

Kurt, where can I buy a new cable?

@@willysoetewey1372 I bought the cable from AliExpress. I think it took a month to arrive from China.

Having tried originally to go shorter and having it fail I would recommend you go with as long as possible . I have a medium helmet and the 12" reached, barely, and pulled out of the connectors when actually putting the helmet on. The slack is necessary when you pull the neck roll open to put and take off the helmet.

If just the end of the connector broke you dont need to rewire the entire thing. Personally I wouldn't bother trying to seperate that cable from the rest of the wires. ALl I would do is cut the end off and replace it with a new one. The wires in the existing wire should work fine and you would only need to just reconnect the power and ground in the new end to the exiting length of wire.

Thanks, Matt. That's what I was planning to do, soldering the wires in the old cable to a new micro USB port. I bought the Micro-USB Extension Cable you mention in your description but I do not know where to connect the five wires back to the pins in the new micro USB connector. I fear I would short circuit the whole thing.

No, the ribbon cable connects the batter and controls to the electronics. the bluetooth module would be on circuit board. Your description though leads me to believe it's a possibly not an issue with the SRC system because if bluetooth was failing the devices would disconnect completely. what do you mean exactly when you say that music is dropping because music cutting in and out isn't quite the same as two bluetooth device disconnecting from each other.

i have a similar issue. the sound cuts for seconds, specially with movements. I tried with 3 different phones and still happens. It only occurs with bluetooth. radio works fine.

The helmet is prewired with an antenna throughout the entire helmet. I do not personally use the radio ever so am not too familiar with it's performance. Technically you could add a larger antenna though if you soldered it in though.

If you're in the US you might be able to take it a place like batteries+ and have them charge and test it to make sure it's good just to be sure. Beyond that if it's not charging via the neckroll you'd have to look at the wire harness from the USB charging cable to the board and the white multi pin connector on that board as that's where the charging input connects to the system and then that power is pass through that ribbon cable to the battery on the other side of the neck roll. if that cable or circuitry is damaged somehow you might be stuck because I'm not sure there's any easy way to repair or replace any part of that. look around 3:20 in my video to get a good look at the cable I am talking about. Its the multi colored cable with the white connector. that is where your 5V in connects to the system via that black wire. You would need a couple tool to test the battery itself. You could buy something like this to charge the battery outside of the system to test: www.amazon.com/dp/B073B7Z7Y3/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_8lOoCbSXMB1ZS And multimeter to verify the charge, current, etc.

@@sloth8871 thanks

Voltage doesn't equal capacity, that's the Mah measurement of the battery. also a 4.2 and 3.7v battery are the same thing, different manufacturer's label them differently. Anything that says 4.2 is basically a marketing gimmick. PEAK voltage of a 3.7v is 4.2v, average discharge is 3.7 and once it goes below 3.4 it's dead. For a more detailed explaination see here learn.adafruit.com/li-ion-and-lipoly-batteries/voltages

@@sloth8871 I know that voltage is not the measure for capacity, but the bms monitors the battery voltage and will turn off the device, when battery voltage drops below a certain level. This means that there is shorter distance to the cut off level (3 V). However, after reading about this, you are right about that the same battery chemistry is often markedet as both 3.6V, 3.7V or 4.2V. This is possible due to different ways of calculation the voltage level. However, there are in fact some variations in battery voltage based upon different internal resistance and ways of coating the battery materials.

It's a 12 pin 0.5mm pitch. Link should be in video description.

@@sloth8871 thanks again great video

any Lipo battery with the Micro JST connector will work. If you want to order an exact replacement you'll have to get it from China. When I made this video this link had what looked like OEM size / shape batteries for sale I never personally purchased from them though because I went with a US based larger battery. www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180511144110&SearchText=452050-2p

thank you very match, and very kind. Now, I think that will be easily find by me. Best regards.

You can now get the battery on ebay for around 13 usd and is an american based company.

@@jonnyh4617 any link to that battery you purchased?

The original technically still works but it won't charge past the original 800Mah as far as I know. I had the new pack fully charged and then plugged in the OEM charging cable it did nothing. I've not tried draining the battery below 800 Mah to see if the OEM will charge it. The nice thing about the new battery charging unit though is that yes, you could technically power the helmet directly from that and have no battery at all if you wanted. I tested that and I was able to power the helmet from a wall outlet and no battery installed whatsoever. The USB female is optional because you could simply use a full size USB A / Mini B cable plugged into the circuit board to power / charge the unit. Have a look at the connectors on the Lipo charger linked above to get a better idea of what I mean.

Thanks for your quick response. Yes I saw it what you did. I am thinking about just cutting the original wire and re use it with this new charger.

You might be able to do that however I would be careful. if you look at the video around 3:30 you can see that bundle ofwires that all connect via that one molex connector, the OEM usb cable is also in that bundle. cutting it off before that would be doable for sure but I would then worry about shorting the wires to each other over time from the wear and moving.

Hi Marcos, you can find the OEM replacement battery for this specifc SRC system in the comments. if you want an exact OEM replacment you'll have to order it from aliexpress. If your battery differnt than mine you'll need to search based on the markings on the battery you do have but aliexpress will still be your best bet. Your other option would be to buy a similar size battery from a place like adaftuit, which is also listed in the description. PM me if you have any other questions.