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Both are more expensive. You have the option to excavate the outside wall and membrane the outside wall while removing the soil causing the issue and replace 80% with rock and the last 20% with soil for gardening. That option can run 300 - 400 / ft. Additionally, you could put on interior drain on the inside wall with wall shield to capture the water and direct it down to your drain system . This type of system can run $100 - 175 /ft.

Thought they might be the other options, you mentioned epoxy cpr makes a diy why kit would you recommend that for a 4 foot older small crack@@ericscheele2233

Every pier has a purpose and application. The advantage of a pushed pier for residential repair is that full resistance is required ie bedrock or load bearing strata so once the pier is installed, you can be confident that the structure load is fully supported on strata that can not move. This is different that concrete piers or engineer helical or disc piers that count on engineer calculated widths and depths to support the load.

@@ericscheele2233 so you need a engineer to use helical piles?

You typically looking at 45 - 75 /ft with minimums.

That is dry-lok, it is sold as a waterproofing paint and used by many homeowners as a DIY waterproofing attempt but the reality that Dry-lok only holds up to 12 PSI of water pressure. This covering was on the wall before we added our solutions and was actively leaking which is why we had to install our interior drain system.

Much relies on the placement of the window and the variables that come with... ie amount of digging, obstructions, drain options, ect, but ballpark wise, you are looking at 3500 - 5500, with average of around 4500 for all materials, labor, installation and warranty.

The window well is a pretty standard 36x50 to meet egress codes to qualify as a bedroom.

You have the option to cut off the ports and paint the surface after 24 hrs of cure.

There is always a bit of space by nature of the irregular linear line of the foundation wall, but it is not critical to be a set distance away from the foundation.

I agree with you Paul. I would say at least a foot depending on the bearing load the foundation (in this case the "fieldstone") wall. If there are more than two stories, I would definitely call in a structural/ water hydraulic engineer to consult with.

There is no penetration given with any surface applicant. The goal is to best address an exterior issue more affordably from the interior of the home so penetration is critical for the best results over the life of the foundation.

Absolutely the crack needs to be dry so the injection material properly sets and cures and yes, you can inject into the ceiling as longs the crack is wide enough or can be drilled to allow for as much depth penetration as possible. Also for ceilings, we would recommend a heavy water sealant or epoxy floor covering in the cases of suspended garages from the top side of the concrete as a primary protectant - sealant if possible. We have also added carbon fiber in a 'tic tac toe' pattern from the bottom to add structural integrity where the rebar may be need additional support.

@KC Pier - Foundation Experts Thanks I really appreciate your help.

Costs can vary one a few variables, but generally speaking you are in the $150 / ft area which includes sump pump and battery back up.

Injections are typically used when the outside wall is not accessible underground. In cases where you have access to the outside wall, you would have the option to membrane the crack from the outside and not need to inject from the inside. In this case, you could repair the crack from the outside with membrane and then smear the crack on the inside simply for a bit of strength but mainly aesthetics.

That can happen at time where the crack may not be wide or deep through the wall. Though ideally you see material in the next port, it may not happen. For thinner cracks, you can widen the crack to allow for better penetration but in cases where material doesn't exist the next port you can simply go on to the next port to inject.

In cases where there are structural concerns or inward movement limitations have been compromised, we can suggest the combination repair of either I beam steel braces or carbon fiber straps which will help not only reinforce the wall, but lessen the probability of the crack opening in the future.

To do it right, you will want to drill out the crack. The intent with the drilling is to help the injection reach the exterior of the wall where the water intrusion is taking place.

The epoxy smear on the surface seals the epoxy injection on the inside of the wall.

After the epoxy has cured (dry for 24 hours) you can leave the peg or cut them off and grind them down as they have served their purpose already.

Thanks. You are absolutely correct.. especially if there is a reflective diagonal crack on the same wall. This particular crack was not reflective and it appears to have originated from the stress point of the window corner so there is a bit more of a chance of the epoxy lasting longer especially within the 3 year warranty period on this particular job, but as you mention still has the potential to continue to move until the source of the movement (the soil is ideally removed or at least reinforced with beams.

If filling the cracks will not last... What is the next step and how do we resolve a problem like this? Curious to know... Thanks 😌

@@JustinBee369 If the wall remains in place the epoxy may last for years and years. The the cracks begin to open again down the road, it indicates the soils outside the wall continue to be active so depending on the level of activity and amount of movement in the wall and whether the cracks are wet or dry, you could consider remedies like I beam installation for wall support or an internal drain system for wet crack resolutions or even an exterior wall dig out potentially combined with waterproofing or push back and I beams for that lifetime remedy. We have videos on our channel for all of those more advanced resolutions as well if interested.

There are a lot of variables in this repair that can greatly effect cost. For the outside dig and remediation, you are looking at 250 - 350 ft depending on hand digging or excavator requirements. For the interior drain and wall shield work, you are looking at 80 - 100 / ft which includes the sump pump. When you combine both as in the repair, there are cost savings that can be combined.

You can expect pricing around $50/ft plus or minus and a minimum of $400 or so.

@@filosworld.1705 can you please tell me the name of the kit?

Injection is not meant to be a permanent fix although there are times that the injection repairs last for years and years. Our warranties on injections are typically 1 - 3 years pending variables. If walls are within tolerances, injections are a very viable repair for water intrusion. If the walls are not actively moving, injections are also very viable in these situations. But, if walls are active or outside of tolerances, it may be best to apply alternative options including but not limited to i beams and interior drains, carbon fiber and interior drains or even exterior waterproofing and wall push backs.

@@ericscheele2233 Not a permanent fix? That's interesting because I know some companies warranty their crack injections for the life of the structure. That doesn't make good business sense (imo) if they're just gonna have to come back out & redo it...for free. My walls have no signs of movement...but I did have a number of cracks that've been present from day 1 of construction so I had them injected recently. (22 yr old home & I'm the original owner).The company that did mine warranties against leakage for as long as I own the home...plus I bought a 1-time transferrable warranty from them for when I go to sell the place. But you say injections aren't permanent fix?...You got me thinking, now.

@@j.d.9010 they can be if you do them right, carbon fiber is not going to hold a wall, you want to make sure you add staples to your wall , or outside water proofing. What I generally do is a complete dig out from the outside down to the foundation footing. Clean off al the cracks, chisel or grind them out about 1” in. Apply injection ports with a flexible high quality long lasting caulking, make sure the surface is clean which usually means getting a mask on going to town with the angle grinder, wire brushing every inch clean. After the ports are set, I take all the drywall off and insulation inside the effected area, and inject a FLEXIBLE URETHANE 1 part epoxy called Fortafix . Once it’s cured, I take all the chalking off and grind down the injection ports. Seal the entire crack over with Bakor Polybitume Sealant , wrap the foundation down to the footing and over it with blueskin, 2 layers for maximum protection. Make sure the surface is clean ( pressure washer , wire wheel, air compressor w.e it takes ) Then cover it with Delta wrap all the way down over the footing. Redo drainage tile / piping. Top off gravel if needed ( most cases it is ) . This isn’t done yet. Go inside, and drill 2 holes opposite each other along the crack, get some thick 3/4” threaded rod, anchor epoxy it in along the cracks, get a 3/8 steel plate, plasma cut slots in it and use it along with the threaded rod to pull the crack together ( use a torque wrench, do not go above 80 ft lb ) . Now you have these layers of protection , GUARANTEED to never leak: 1: urethane injection 2: Bakor Polybitume Sealant 3: Blueskin tucked over the foundations footing 4: Delta Wrap tucked over the foundations footing, on top of the blueskin. 5: new weeping tile piping 6: interior control staples ( custom made product to the customers specific application and needs ) This is way over kill, I know . Most people won’t do this or consider paying someone to do this, I am a small private business in Southern Ontario Niagara Region, I did this to my own house and 8 others so far, not a single leak or complaint, I sleep well knowing I’ll never have a call back. This is the correct way Imo, anything else is a waste of time, I have done a lot of research and testing on my own house. Don’t waste your time with other peoples nonsense pathetic attempts at repair such as this one, this shit won’t last. My repairs will OUTLAST the life of the property. Starting rate tho, $2,500 CAD min, for one crack. If you want your whole house dug out and bomb proofed, it’s going to be in the $20,000 ‘s , sometimes more. This can be done on your own, start digging and find a welder to make you the staple bracket. I haven’t done one in a year so this might be out of order, the staple bracket should go in right after the urethane has cured because you want your threaded rod to go almost all the way through, if not all the way and stapled from both sides. If it’s a really big problem moving crack, I request the customer have a structural engineer and building code inspector come in to do approvals , it’s going to take a lot more than just a couple holes and staple brackets.

Agree. While the injection will stop the water, for a while, it does not address the issue of that wall moving inwards. A bigger issue.

@Chill Will Yes and no... to be honest, he did what the customer asked for. If it were me, I'd refuse (option 3), since it is not a fix and just a patch that will absolutely fail again. No warranty could possibly be given and he just opens himself up to litigation.

You don't have to... that is user / installer or home owner choice. If you painting the wall afterwards, we would recommend it just for aesthetics.

Thanks for the answer.

There are many kits out there for purchase. If you google search 'crack injection material', you will see some choices.

bullshit! wall will fall down?? yeah if the wall made of jellies... if you know nothing about civil engineering, u better shut up.

To your point, it is true that pressure may build up, but typically the wall will not fall down. Instead, water seeps through cracks as it present a path of least resistance. Hence, you get water in your basement or crawl space. Once that crack is repaired, the water will build up pressure as you correctly point out, but most typically, the water will find a new 'path of least resistance' and may show up a water problem in a new area or what happens many times is the water will try to original path of least resistance, but then redirect to the footing drain which was installed for exterior water during construction and follow the drains path away from the home.

@@ericscheele2233 thats true sir.

@@deankhan7692 Come back in 20 years and lets see.

Which water, you could consider an interior drain application or an exterior dig out and waterproof membrane application.

There are many kits out there for purchase. If you google search 'crack injection material', you will see some choices. Quick note, 1/2" is a large void and will use a lot of material. It also indicates that your wall has a surrounding soil has a lot of previous, if not active and current movement which may speak to the long term viability of an epoxy repair. You can try it, but don't be too surprised if you see that crack continue to move within the year. The next level of repair could include a wide array of potential repairs from interior drains and braces or carbon fiber or wall push backs and exterior waterproofing.

As we drive the piers down hydraulically, we watch the pressure readings. Once the pressure readings jump and hold, we know we have hit load bearing strata or bedrock.