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1991 is a different cluster design than this. However, it should be the same bulbs, I used 194/168-base LEDs from superbrightleds

By dash, do you mean the whole dash? Or just the cluster? Either way as far as I know the junkyard is your only option, though the dash also has the VIN tag riveted to it, so that's fun.

I'm not entirely certain, but I know pre-87 is different and 91+ is different. It's either 89/90 or 88-90 that share a column.

What year truck do you have? I have no light for my light switch or my wiper switch, and they're not even close to the same switch for me, so I'm wondering if we have radically different wiring to start with. My best advice for interior lights, if all of them are dead, is that it's most likely either a dead fuse (you'll have to look up a fuse diagram, I don't remember if my truck runs them all through the same or not), or it's a failed headlight switch. All of those lights come on with the headlight switch, so if it isn't a fuse, that would be my assumption of the failure point.

1986 W250 with the 360. Its the very basic model If you take off the cover to the headlight/wiper switches my bulb was upright in the middle. I will work on getting a headlight switch. Thank you

@@2334Fresh oh, you have the dash wiper switch, don't you? I get it now. I'm going to assume it's the headlight switch, if all your interior lights aren't working.

@@AgamemnonTWC changed the headlight switch and kaboom the dashboard came alive! Thanks for the tip!

@@2334Fresh glad to be of help and glad you got it working!

Still alive, and so is the Ramcharger. Currently on indefinite hold for restoration, as it keeps having to fill in for my "reliable" daily driver. I'm never buying another 2000s FWD car again.

@@AgamemnonTWC fair enough, good to hear that you still have it though

My truck actually had the same problem, and I went through all the same stuff you did. In my case, it turned out someone tried to redneck some trailer wiring into the stock taillight wiring and just managed to make none of it work at all. I doubt that specifically is your issue, but looking for previous owner Bubba'd wiring is a good place to start when things don't make any sense.

I tried that, they didn't want to turn and I didn't want to force them. So I did the easy thing. My gauges, thankfully, do still work a yearish later, though one socket appears to have a bad connection, so eventually it'll be coming apart again to get the far left LED working.

I think it's a 194

Highly recommended! You should look into Amazon, Ebay, and Summit Racing for them, Borgeson's site has a much higher price than elsewhere.

The shift wire, as in the little cable from the shift indicator to the steering column? There's a little hook on the end of the cable that hooks into one of three or four holes on a bracket attached to the shifter. I used some wire, fishing line would have worked better, to tie to that hook and work through the dash where it goes down to that bracket, then I picked which hole worked best for it. If none of the holes line up properly, you can gently bend the bracket up or down as well. I'd offer to make a short video explaining it, but I'm across the country from my truck at the moment.

Sorry this is so late. I had the exact same story, rebuilt the stock coupler with the kit and in about a month it was back to sloppy. Replacing with a u joint style shaft is the only strong fix I've found.

Its tight now,yes mine wandered around too. Im kinda use to it all the Dodge trucks I have owned had steering problems like that. My problem now is the shaft is not lined up with the column. Mine is 85 too ,I diddnt realize it was so loose. The steering shaft had no bearings and the cage was in pieces, it all fell apart when I took it off.

remember theses things are never straight forward.

All the trucks used simular steering shafts Dodge up to 08

Jonathon Trump Holding up great after months of daily driving and a trip across the country! As far as the retaining pin goes, the steering box input shaft has a flat for the stock roll pin, but the Borgeson shaft doesn't use the stock roll pin. It has a retaining screw, and you've got to file a groove into the steering box input shaft to screw the screw into to hold it together. I don't love the design, but it's okay, has a lock nut on it as well so it isn't just a screw holding it on.

A flat spot for the new lock retainer, it wont line up with the stock one on the new one.

Well howdy! Happy to oblige. I'll post more stuff eventually, life has been busy and the folks I usually talk to while streaming/recording have been equally busy.