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I believe older diesels are exempt from emissions in Cali. Which is funny

@geofflytwyn-th9nm I did this when I was 18/19, so that was nearly 10 years ago. I don't remember off the top of my head, but I would guesstimate to spend about 10k. 2k for adapter plate & hardware, 2k to 4k for a good running engine depending on supply/demand, and then another 2k to build up the 4l80e to handle power. The rest of the 4k is odds and ends. All the little stuff adds up quick. New radiator, New hoses, custom wiring, motor mounts were I think $800, to have the crossmember modified was a couple hundred bucks, to have the front core support modified was 1k. I have since replaced the 4l80e with an allison 2000, but the project has sat for about 4 years now due to other projects occupying my time. Good luck with your swap

@@Scholioso Yeah, thats about the range I thought it would be. Would I have to get the wiring harness from the dodge to be able to make it work? There is just so much unknown to me going from gas to diesel

@geofflytwyn-th9nm I'm not sure, but I would get the harness just incase. I did, and I ended up cutting the Dodge harness & making a hybrid dodge/6.5 harness. A lot of the sensors from the 6.5, I ended up just installing on the cummins motor. Then I had to extend or shorten the wires to each sensor has necessary. Only thing I really needed the Dodge harness for was the alternator and crank speed sensors. I'm utilizing the 6.5 ecm still. Not the Dodge ecm. These trucks don't care what engine is in it, just as long as the signals are in the right parameters. Which, diesel to diesel is similar. Gas to diesel however is another ballgame. Gas has an ignition system side of house too, diesel does not. It's purely compression/physics. Good luck with your project.

At this time, I was running the Screamin Seaman motor mounts (link below), and I don't remember the adapter plate company. The 4l80e blew up 10k miles later, roughly 3 times, so I inevitably gave up & pulled it. Been working on an allison swap since then. www.ssor.biz/

@@donpatterson5294 If I remember correctly, I hooked up to the W wire of the alternator.

@Nemo_IRL correct, I found a gas engine, cable operated throttle pedal and used that to run the throttle on the 12v

@jamessalerno4234 unfortunately she has sat for the better part of 4 years due to other projects occupying my time. The channel will be becoming more active here soon

1500 isn't a great idea, the factory small block is gonna be around 500-650lbs fully dressed, and a 5.9 is around 1400lbs from what I remember

@stevenbean9706 not sure what you mean by mated tranny. If you mean the Dodge transmissions, sure, but then you have headaches with sensors talking to chevy electronics and different teeth readings and what not. Not all speed sensors are the same. Some read 32 teeth per full rotation, others read 33 per full rotation, etc. By using the same chevy transmission that was in the truck, I was able to keep all my electronics the same without modifying them heavily.

Nope!

Never found out, sorry. I suspected the throwout bearing. I sold the car.

@@Scholioso oh I gotcha. No worries man!

There's been a few of those swaps I've seen! There's a shop dedicated to that actually on TheTruckStop forum. Might wanna look into that. I forget the guys username tho. Sorry!

I'm sorry, I really don't remember. I changed out the ignition switch, the hazard switch, the turn signal relay, and I cleaned all the grounds on the car. But I don't remember exactly what fixed it. Sorry!

@@Scholioso That's ok, I was gonna clean all of the grounds, and turn signal relay. It just started to happen after I disconnected the battery for about a week. reconnected it, and it went crazy. Maybe a low battery caused a short somewhere?

Thank you! I'm excited to get it done!

I'm not running a Quick 4 controller. Hit up Joel Jones over at AdventureVehiclesNorthWest or their youtube joneseysautoclub. They have more info on those controllers

So you jus plug stock wires harness?

@@thewhitebeast5815 No sir. I am running an EZ TCU controller.

I connected the 6.5 tach "w" wire directly to the cummins alternator "w" terminal.

I haven't had the time to rip the car apart to fully diagnose. Sorry

Nope, clutch is working great! I believe the throw out bearing may be grinding when the clutch is engaged. It only does it sometimes. Clutch looks great, I didnt see anything when I pulled the inspection cover. Plan is when the engine gets replaced, I'll fix the throwout bearing. The car is no longer my daily driver, so it's been put on the back burner for now.

Alex Scholey i see . I was thinking of putting ls7 clutch . Because I’m doing heads cam intake full exhaust. Wha u think ??

@@Chepo1500 sounds like a good idea

@@Scholioso did you hear any pop/clunk sound when you released clutch fast in neutral?

@@DuBstep115 nope, this noise would slowly get worse when the clutch pedal was pressed fully in. Almost like the clutch would immediately disengage when the pedal was pressed, but then would lose pressure & start to re engage. However, it never did. Even with the noise going, the clutch wasn't slipping or re engaging. I ended up bleeding the clutch out & that kinda helped. I believe the throwout bearing is going out though. Apparently the clutch fluid needs to be bled a lot more than I thought.

mike g I discovered two things. The rubber bushing was indeed shot. And the bearing on the input shaft side of the torque tube was toast as well. I replaced the bearing and the bushings. I believe I have a video of the bad bushing. If not, I'll upload it.

sounds alot like the issue I have with my 99. Did you feel a shake in the Shifter, and and the whole car?

mike g No, I didnt. But if you are, it could be that your bushing is literally about to destroy itself. Is it a constant shake no matter the speed?

i think so. have only driven it twice in the last year.