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What's best way to step down a 5v signal from a sensor to esp32 input and make it 5v output signal again to the receiving device?

So Cute

Awesome 👌 gotta love the creativity. I often find myself going down the rabbit hole with some projects, I've got a cupboard full of failed and another with unfinished projects 😅 I got micro controllers everywhere lol keep up the good videos

It's looking great! It would be cool to add two mics so the eyes could follow sound, it would be hilarious - but it's complicated enough as it is. There's are a few options for flicker: One is vsync pin use if your display has one, it'll be in the datasheet, and it lets a new image be drawn in synch with the display refresh. Some controllers have a setting for "tearing effects" if that's the problem. One is partial updates that only changes the parts that have changed. Might be great for eyes, but I don't know much about it tbh. If you're using SPI I think you can optimise the speed for the display to a point. Double buffering can also help - creating one buffer for the current frame, and one for the next frame. Once the drawing is complete they're swapped - which prevents the display from showing incomplete frames. Works on I2C and SPI

Good project!! I can't wait to see the final product 😁👍 - cheers!!

Did you find any way around for entering into bootloader mode? Pressing those small buttons every other time sucks.

I'm new to the channel, just subscribed. I'm coming back to esp after a few years break, and trying out new boards. I really love your projects because they're novel uses for the esp's...plus your explanation videos cover pretty much everything and are really well thought out. I know it takes a lot of work behind the scenes producing these vids, and I appreciate you taking the time to make them. Wishing your channel all the best.

My nerd crush 😻 🤣

No, no I can't focus on studying if the teacher is this beautiful. cheerrss subscribe now... like now...

No, no I can't focus on studying if the teacher is this beautiful. cheerrss subscribe now... like now...

Don't mean to be offensive in any way to anybody, but it's so refreshing to see a lady doing this kind of work. She's admirable, great to watch at night, she's not shouty or in your face, nice and calm just how I Like it, keep up the great videos.

The PCB looks relatively simple (not a dig, just from seeing the wires), so have you thought about designing it in KiCad and getting it manufactured? There are lots of vendors like PCBWay or JLCPCB, I've used both for small projects and it cost me like $5-$10 for 5 boards about that size. KiCad definitely has a learning curve but there are tons of great tutorials on TH-cam and elsewhere on the web. Good luck either way!

Not all wires are "soldable". Some are insanely easy, some got their insolator going crazy when hot, some don't retain tin. The super flex one doesn't seem to be designed for soldering (quite hard to see through video). You learn better through "mistakes". (From that motto I would say that I know A LOT 😂)

I love that you're calling it a rough draft. I might do the same!

Techno-teddy getting better on each revision. 👍

Not sure what’s going on here but hell yeah brother

Next revision you should make a custom PCB. You could probably get it way Smaller and neater

😂

I would have switched to a Pi Zero long ago, you can pick the first gen up for around $10, so still inexpensive. But I do understand and respect your determination. I think with the rotating assembly you are overcomplicating it with the individual ball bearings. Good Idea, but seems frustrating and messy. I would print the 2 portions to use a bearing, maybe a 608 or the sort, and have it press fit (or glue) into one piece and screw through the center with the other. it would solve the holding together and should be robust enough to support the head with a good support structure. Then find a thin sheet of just about any metal and cut your own rings; thin copper, aluminum, something you could solder to. You could probably use a flattened out soda can if you wanted to. Use anything to make a "brush" setup as a contactor (or find or buy a set of actual brushes) to ride on the rings for current transfer. I used bare copper wire and some dielectric grease in the past and it worked for as long as I needed it to. For the wiring problems, maybe try slightly bending the pins. I have had the same issues in the past and it seems to help (sometimes) with contact and secureness. And as stated before, maybe you should give some flavor of Linux a try. You could set up your Win PC to dual boot and I do find it easier for working with certain programs. You seem more than happy-ish to work in command line, so doing any advanced setup and installations would be reasonably easy. Plus there is generally someone out there who has already shared ways to solve any problems you may have, and a lot of people who would be glad to help. Most Linux people love solving problems. Oh, and you looked just fine in the video. I don't have a good side, so I never worry about it. But please watch your audio; I had to crank the volume up on everything to hear your voice! Good luck with the project, I can't wait to see the finished bear. Are you going to put him in a Big Blue House?

I have that iron you are using. I got it as an example of an inexpensive iron for a beginner that I presented in a series on beginner's equipment. Personally I think it does a great job. What do you think of it?

I'm well chuffed that your into this kind of stuff, keep it up, love it.

Once u have tested your prototype on a pegboard ,U can get a pcb printed for very minimal price online

They make a spray on electrical tape, pretty cheap. Also a small file like a nail file could work

😂

13:18 you can also remove the adhesive backing on the breadboard, removing the retention bars and using pliers to squeeze/deform them so they’ll grip your jumpers better.

11:29 use hot glue to hold the cables in place temporarily.

Just because you bring attention to it doesn’t mean you can’t be criticized

Dayum

11:48 That’s a 3v motor. In creasing voltage won’t increase the torque much. I’ve done a “stall torque vs no-load rpm” plots and their performance is kinda crappy if you need to get meaningful work out of them without gear box. My solution to get okay torque at 120rpm out of them was to design a planetary gear box for it where the ring gear was stationary and the and the input was the sun gear. The planet carrier would rotate. At the 120rpm. Dimensionally, the gear box was about 25mm diameter and 15mm long. Anyways, it’s doable just requires extra designing

Ah, no worries, you are doing fine.

I use a dap of flux (Amtech) to touch up/reflow my solder joints to make them look better. It's a bit more work though, as I need to use isopropyl alcohol to remove any extra flux residue. However, my joints do look better, so I feel it's worth the extra effort.

The breadboards are good until the contacts start wearing out or the pins are not quite spec. Also (not applicable here) if you have digital and analog high gain amps on the same breadboard, we had problems until we just used soldered boards. On the other had I have a breadboard that I still used from college... just for low speed arduino projects now. Nice watching your progress on the Techno-Teddy. This is not a simple project, the difficult projects are always the best though. The skeletal structure for the bear will be challenging too but I think you mentioned you also 3-d print so you got it covered. Luckily, no AI on Techno-Teddy so no Megan movie here. (Lol).

Good decision soldering on a board. BTW...I worked at an electronic firm and the manager would give a verbal warning if he caught anyone prototyping on the solderless breadboards.....everyone uses them though

🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠

I had an on board oscillator fail on my DE0-NANO right when I finally had time to try and make a gameboy advance VGA output video converter. Failure is always anticipated !

Wish I could talk with you, but since one who makes first move is taken for granted by the other one, I just surrender and let life decide with my 100 % mentally assumed probabilitty that you will reject ! I am sure you would reject the proposal ! So be it and I should just be content with just watching your video once in a while , but yet again I had a wish that I could talk with you

We're rooting for you. Trust me you are not alone. It can be SO discouraging when everything is going wrong. You just feel like at every turn you hit another wall. We hear you. Trust me it's not just you.

Btw the ESP32 shoud be easier than the pi and faster mcu to mcu .The pi is more supported but the esp is not far behind. you should be able to do much more with the ESP also so good choice. Its ok to rant I hope it gave you some room to finish . I wish i knew what exactly you are trying to accomplish.

the through hole slip ring is way over kill. Think about your neck ...you dont have that system and you work just fine. I dont think you are making a "demon" bear that needs to do a 360 rotation. As far as the microphone you can use cellphone microphone (4mmx 2.5mm x 1.5mm[h]) you only need 2# or two pairs. you basically need a comparator and the loudest sound is the direction the head turns.

as far as the bear goes...is the bear to walk? the reason I as is because you seem to be looking for a way to get your electronics mounted? hear is an idea. Use foam body and the fur is the skin. So the foam would be your structure and when everything is finished put the bear fur over it. By the way your video quality is fine

hi ..i am sorry if I am totally clueless to what your project is , TH-cam just recommended your feed . just wondering why are you using a disply for the eyes movement. I would think that mechanical eyes would be easier and more realistic. But if you insist , why not use LVGL to do this...super easy and its free.

I had problems with those jumper wires. Some of them had bad crimps and making intermittent connections. Check all of those jumper wires with ohmmeter and toss any that have intermittent connections. Not worth the trouble keeping them around. In fact I would just cut the connectors off on all of the batch that came from the same package and keep the wires if they are worth keeping i.e. if they have enough wire strands. It is hit and miss on the quality of those jumper wires depending on who makes them. I usually make my own jumper wires. Those Dupont connector shells and pins are inexpensive. There is nothing worse than troubleshooting intermittent problems due to faulty wires and switches.

I would also highly recommend VSCode with PlatformIO. I just cannot understand how people can use the Arduino IDE for more than 2 minutes. It has no completion, none of the thousands of plugins you could install, very little control over the build process… it's just extremely basic, and really not suited to do anything serious. Switching to VSCode + PlatformIO + plugins was a game changer for me, I could finally use real tools like in my actual job (many of them the same), and it just made so much more sense than using an "IDE" built for high school students - that's definitely what it feels like to me. If you switch there is a little bit of a learning curve but it's not bad at all, especially with the countless examples you can find on GitHub.

the rotating contact need contact spring system. i think you better buy one or machine one than print one

1. Stop using breadboard and those connectors, both sucks. 2. Use Linux. 3. Either solder your prototype or send the pcb to a factory and solder the components yourself.

I've found using PlatformIO with VScode is much easier to deal with and more stable than the arduino IDE once you get it set up. Especially for ESP8266 and ESP32 boards. Because you're working with libraries and some more advanced stuff I'd recommend swapping. It's not as beginner friendly but it allows you a lot more freedom and flexibility. Also, if you're only going to let the head swivel in a fixed arc you don't need the slip ring. The wires won't get twisted. If you want to let the head swivel all the way around then the slip ring is a good idea.

I use Visual Studio Code for my ESP32 projects. It's not as user friendly as Arduino IDE, but it's good to know how to use both IDEs in case something doesn't work in one of them. I think we all understand your frustration with this project as tinkerers. Looking to help where we can. Good luck with your project.

ALL the technical difficulties..😂 Never went deep enough to have to create a library, but I'm no good with C++. Better with Python Sounds interesting though! Good luck!

Audio level is a bit low. Cool stuff though!

Es una lastima que no tenga el bluetooth tradicional que mucho mas facil configurar que el ble