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Thank You! I actually tried the long skinny keys too, color-coded the same as the standard keyboard. I made them tall and narrow, so it would be easier to press one without dragging it's neighbors down with it. I found it harder to play than the Janko. Maybe I didn't get the spacing and proportions quite right. But I think the alternating rows of the Janko just works better with my brain. It really makes it easy to differentiate whole steps and 1/2 steps. Kinda glad I tried both though. For me, it removed any doubt.

Thank you much! My printer is a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. It was in need of a couple of adjustments out-of-box, above and beyond some minmal assembly, but I'm pretty happy with it overall. Very user friendly, and so is the accompanying Slicer software. Here is the vid of the completed project. th-cam.com/video/37FBCDSAaJg/w-d-xo.html Now that this prototype has worked out, I'm currently working on a new one for the Casio CT-S400. Basically an improved version of the keys for a better quality keyboard. More vids on that later.

I agree. I compensated for this leverage issue by tilting the key surfaces back by 18° and then putting legs on the bottom of the keyboard to tilt it forward by 18°. The top row does take a little more pressure to sound, but nowhere near as bad as it would be otherwise. It also meant less material was needed for printing and a bit less time. I watched your vid. Very cool. 👍😁

Unfortunately, my files were deleted for the keys themselves, but I do have the underlying Mechanism, and will be posting them soon. I have a digital piano now and will be doing a more integrated design for it. I started with a generic mechanism underneath so I could try out a couple of different configurations. But I'm sold on Janko now. I do still have the g-code files for the keys, but for my printer with my settings. Do you think I should post the G-code too?

@@Jake-co7rt G-code works for me 👍

I finally got around to setting up my account and uploading to Thingiverse. Sorry for the delay. Life is often a horrible distraction from the projects I'd rather be spending my time on. I uploaded STLs on the assumption that everyone has different printers and, like me, would want to set up the print themselves. Anyway, if you're still interested, here's the link. www.thingiverse.com/thing:6558799

Thanks @@Jake-co7rt you've made my day.

@@richwilliams7002 I'm thrilled that anyone is even interested. I'm working on a new version for the Casio CT-S400. I decided I wanted better sound, and to lose the lag and occasional glitching you can get with midi and a DAW. So I 'll be posting more on that as I go.

It mostly does. The keys scrape each other here and there. I have been meaning to do another vid to show the completed mod. (one gets busy) I actually also tried out an arrangement with all narrow keys of the same length and width, like the Dodeka style, but I like the Janko better. Now that I have a successful proof of concept, the next step will be an improved Janko mod for a Casio CT-S400. Better sound, and none of the glitching or lag I often get with midi-controllers and a DAW. I'll try to get that next vid done soon.

@@Jake-co7rt I think you’ve done an amazing job and I’d really like to duplicate what you’ve done on my Q49. Are you planning on sharing or selling your 3D files from Blender at some point? Thanks

@@richwilliams7002 Unfortunately, some of these files were lost due to a mistake on my part. I still have the design for the mechanism parts underneath, and I'm happy to share them for free. I just need to take the time and upload them. I think I still have the G-code for the keys, and am happy to share it, but you might need to edit it for your printer settings. I'll share links... when I get around to uploading. 😬

Thanks @@Jake-co7rt for your generosity. Looking forward to your next vid !

It's finished actually. I keep meaning to do the next vid on it. Just got busy. Coming soon.

I happened to be watching it this weekend, while tinkering on my computer, and that scene made me laugh. Had to share it. (c:

That's really cool.

Yeah, mine has been malfunctioning too. Intermittent esc problems, gradually getting worse. I also have a Beta85 Pro2 and a HappyModel Snapper7, both of which are more reliable. The Snapper is good for stability flights indoors but is pretty under-powered for anything else. The Beta85... ROCKS.

Hahahaha! Thanks for the kind words. I actually had a great flight right before this, with graceful swoops and nice snap-rolls and and flips, but had neglected to record, then discovered I didn't have the card in my headset. I left the headset and quad on the patio while I ran in to get the card (will never do that again). When I came out, the neighbor's cute little terrier (terror) had my quad. After all that I took this video, which is some of the clumsiest, most awkward I have ever made. (even worse, if I hadn't edited the hell out of it). It goes that way sometimes. ¯\_(^_^)_/¯

I got some 450mah batteries in addition to the one that came with it. Don't know which it was on when I did that flight. I've got 13 of them now and have run them all a bunch of times. Haven't noticed any degradation yet. But I know they don't last forever. I don't think I got longer flights than this one though.

@@Jake-co7rt I lost 30-45sec flight time in the last 8 weeks on every battery,i fly twice a day Indoor. I only use the tinyhawk s with 1s lipos,for 2s i have the Diatone Cube 329 ;) On this Toothpick you get a flight time of 5min with the 2s Emax 300mah lipo and no heat at all !!!

@@MG-ht2cy I'm getting a Beta85 Pro2 for 2S. I think I've given up on the tinyhawks. Trying the happymodel Snapper7 for 1S next. I'll probably replace the frame, (maybe try it on the THawk's frame). I want to try some more radical custom frame ideas out. But I need a more reliable board 1st. The Tinyhawk broke my heart. It was so good! ...at 1st. but if it starts failing after a month... )c:

Emax TinyHawk S. It is a BNF (Bind and Fly) model compatible with FRSKY transmitters. An RTF (Ready to Fly) version, which includes the already bound transmitter, is available. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ST4XK1Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you are getting serious, step one is a good transmitter. Mine is an Frsky Taranis X7. And I chose the TinyHawk because of it's versatility, tiny size (tiny-whoop scale) and it's use of the Frsky protocol. If you just want to play around a bit, and not spend hours and hours tuning, setting up, modding etc, there are RTF toy quads for a lot less money. But I don't know much about which of those are better than others. I have seen them with the monitor built into the transmitter though.