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This is GREAT information. I work on British cars/Lucas distributors every week, and seem to always find something wrong with each of them. The fly weights almost always seem to stick.

Mine has the ribs AND pre-verto clutch, so? 998 Austin

⁠ actually I think you’re doing a good job, in all my working life apprentices were given/ put with certain fitters on the shop floor now my Forman always puts one with me but not always other guys! I found out years later it was because I took time to explain exactly what and why they were going about a task in the correct way and giving them pride in their work instead of just treating them like dogs body! Even now in my 70’s I’ve an ex apprentice that pops round to see me for coffee he was 17 when I first met him and he’s nearly 60 now 😊 in other words especially in today’s world where young un’s don’t want to get their hands dirty we have to pass on our skills to those that do want to learn 🙏🏻 carry on with your videos to educate the other as when one’s done a good job self satisfaction in knowing that you can do it, is a good feeling 👍👍👍👍

This is great. How much vaccum advance would you give a car with a fast road 285deg cam? It originally had non but is for road so wanted to add to light off leaner mixture at cruise? Thanks and keep up the good work

Hello and thank you for your video. I rebuilt this starter yesterday but after closing everything up, it doesn’t work at all. The “positive” side didn’t have the paper gasket that touches the main body so I used silicone gasket. And the plastic isolator was kind of melted on the old power post so I used heat shrink and electrical tape to isolate that bolt. I thoroughly cleaned the starter, changed the brushes and leveled the copper. Also there is continuity between the “ground” top part and the power post at the bottom. Is that normal because the brushes are touching the same copper plate? Any ideas?

Yep you did ok 👍 😀

Right this is before I watch your video and being an served time aircraft engineer from starting my apprenticeship in 1967 till I retired working at the same factory building fighting attack aircraft I’m looking forward to seeing how you get on as Ive seen some terrible stuff on TH-cam including your mate, so I’ll re-comment again after I’ve watched it , but I do like your channel😊

Good lesson. Thanks Darren.

nice job

Can you please give the dimensions of the capacitor and a link to the one you bought? Thanks 👍

Thank goodness for your video, I thought I was going crazy… I bought a 5568a from amazon Uk (for my mini) they shipped from American. It arrived I tried it - so dull I couldn’t use it. So I returned it. They wouldn’t just replace it so I had to get a refund and order another one… ten days later, the same thing, to dull to use! I thought I was going crazy I tried different leads, different power source, different vehicles, messaged Innova (still awaiting a response) I’ve spent about 3 hours plus on this 🤦‍♂️ I love the functionality but should I count my looses and give up on it or try one more time?

At some point in the car's life someone may have added some "stop leak sauce". I find that stuff setting up with rust in coolant passages frequently.

I had a similar problem with my SPi Cooper (1992) in that the temp gauge was reading low and the ECU reported 72c when the rest of the cooling system was up at 88c. The solution was a refurbished inlet manifold with new stainless tubes. After that the ECU reports just over 80c when the engine is up to temperature. On my UK spec car the radiator has sensor switch for the auxiliary fan that sits at the bottom front of the rad. To drain the coolant I find it is easier to remove the sensor rather than try to get the bottom hose off. I usually replace the temp sensor rubber seal with a new one on reassembly.

I've got an SP code reader just like that one😮.

I just spent an hour trying to find a CBB20 2 uF +/-5% 630VDC 23490201 capacitor, and I am giving up in frustration. DigiKey doesn't have one. Mouser doesn't have one. My cap is completely shot, reading like 0.015 nF or something, but I can't source a replacement. (My timing light had about six minutes of use before the cap gave up. Go go Innova quality! Wooooooo!)

Evening Darren, caught parts of the live stream last night and wanted to ask more about PCV & breathers. I have a 1310 A+ engine almost fully rebuilt with a wrath of new parts, one being a MED belt timing cover (which doesn't have the breather) I had planned on using the fuel pump hole and transfer case and pipe these back to Carb but then heard talk about oil being pushed up the pipe (which I didn't foresee) How do I best proceed? Will the transfer case breather provide enough pressure relief to be ok back to the carb or do I need to go back to a catch pot? This is a fast road build and now understand a timing belt minus the breather may not have been the best idea (hindsight 😅) Any help would be greatly appreciated? Understand with a new build there won't be as much blow by the pistons but am I walking into a bit of a problem.

Thanks!! I have good experience with Millers Oil Classic VSPe Power Plus Multishot. providing ethanol protection, lead replacement and an octane improver all in one.

Great wee series. Im amazed at your low subscriber count. These are definitely some of the best and most informative mini videos going. Are you using enough tags on them to let them be found?

Heads up, your sequencing is out. You jump from part 3 to 5

Heads up, your sequencing is out. You jump from part 3 to 5

Great video. Another eye-opening moment when you mentioned turning the coil on its side for the air bubble. Id never heard that before. Great level of detail. ❤

Thanks for this. Like someone else said, it would be good to see more injection model videos. Also, what would you expect to see the resistance of the leads ideally being. 40 odd years ago we'd have put resistance plugs and leads in to stop interference on the radio. Would you mind doing a short video explaining all about the electrics, their applixations, differences re plugs, leads, distributors their benefits and drawbacks? Thanks again

Do I need resistor plugs if only running 65d dizzy with carb and no stereo?

Nice work..........thanks👍

I can't wait to see more on later cars

Great to see this video. I know nothing of the later SPi Minis and this will allay some Of my fears to owning one

Would you mind putting the link to earlier videos in the description if they are follow ons. Just means we can go straight to part 1 without messing about. Thank you

How to set the timing in a A series engine through the fly wheel

Where did you get the capacitor? Price? Part number?

I have the full breather setup on my 1275 Metro engine, but I am still being asphyxiated by fumes. Especially when I open a window. Definitely a fuel/fume smell. No fuel leaks found anywhere.

I see the car has a German license plate… where are you located?!

Good video, I'm learning about the mini ignition systems and this helped

Enjoyed watching the Video Darren. Very informative, thank you.! Nice mini 👍

👍🚘👍

Wish you were in Calgary !

An excellent video mainly because you show and explain everything clearly and precisely, thanks 🙏🏻

Hi good video and correctly done 👍 I would like you to express your views/ opinions on ported and manifold vacuum please as I’m about to fit a vacuum advance unit to one of my cars that didn’t have one fitted to it in 1938 the year of manufacture, now I’m confused because there seems to be a right good argument on TH-cam about it ! ie some saying ported and other saying manifold????

Good video. It was a question i had after the last video, what good looked like. Thanks

Thank you for the very informative video. In my case I have an engine with blow-by. Would it be wise to connect the breather hose to the carburetor as I have it going to a catch tank? Many thanks to AC Dodd for introducing you through the live sessions!

Darren it didnt look like the gauge was zeroed when you were leakdown testing cylinders 3,4,2 - are you sure theyre much worse that #1? Thanks for all the content!

Good video, thanks

Thanks for the great information! Question though: when connecting the breathers back to the carb will this affect the mixture setting of the engine?

Great video thanks. Ive seen ACDodd doing Leakdown testing while reworking a head on the bench, but this is the first time ive seen testing on a full engine. So thank you. Whats the likelihood of the rings playing a large roll in this?

Thanks! Confirmed what I have is a A series not A+ (in a 94 JDM import car). What year did they swap from A to A+. I wonder if my engine was not original to this car?

Question: I have a '94 SPI mini that's back to twin SU carbs now. Runs great. Stinky (fuel smell) though! I have the venting of the main crankcase breather going back to the carbs as you have. I THINK though a lot of the stink is the float bowls of the SU carbs venting to air. What I've done is connected the two carb float bowls vents together then teed off to the carbon filter under the wing along with the fuel return vent line which was already going to it. Seems to cut the stink in the cabin a fair bit. Does this make sense to you? Thoughts on this as a solution to the stink/venting? There is NOT a return line (or valve of any kind) from the carbon filter on my car though going back to the carbs to burn off any vapour stink that builds up in there. Do you think I could put a return line teed into the crankcase breather that feeds to the carbs to reburn vent gases that would pull more and more vacuum on the charcoal cannister as the RPMS get higher? Does this make sense how I've outlined it?

Thank you!

Great vivid, is it possible to do a video on how to do the timing through the fly wheel please thanks Hans

Nice video, but I was always told as an ape 55 years ago was to have the butterfly wide open so maximum air can enter the cylinders while cranking 👍 as for the leak down test I’ve just bought one because on checking my compression on one of my cars a 1938 that seamed to run ok I did a compression test on all 4 and much to my surprise number 3 was only 35 psi 😱😱😱 so I’m going to look further into it obviously 😢. I like your channel and straight forward work 😀😀

how much pressure coming from your compressor for the leak down test?