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If you give me az e-mail , i can send you a video

This is the bearing inside the clutch cover.

@ I feel silly for not even knowing that there’s one there. I replaced my wheel bearings based off your other tutorial video regarding wheel bearings. I have a 2016 AC 500 alterra (don’t know if it will have bearing inside clutch cover like yours?). So is it just a matter of taking off the clutch cover to get to it, and then inspect and grease it? I don’t want to mess anything up.

A wheel bearing greaser is a good tool to have if you ride in water!👍🏼 The clutch cover bearing is pretty easy to get to. Pull the clutch cover and it’s right inside. Just be careful pulling the seal on it but they pop out fairly easy.

@ 10-4! Thanks 👍

The tensioner would just keep your chain from jumping timing, then if the timing is off it won’t run right. A rod knock could be a bearing on the crankshaft. If you rotate the engine over by hand is there a place it sticks or clunks?

Yeah, it can be time consuming to pull the fenders but I’m ready for snow now! 😎

@ Yes indeed🤙 Me too! Hey Arctic Frost, a separate, but serious question here: You know how when you first start your ATV and it idles high for a few seconds and then automatically idles down to a normal 1300 rpm’s; If you start to notice that sometimes it’s taking longer to idle down and/or sometimes seems like it’s sticking at that high idle even if the engine is sufficiently warm, what do you think is happening, or if it’s simply a sensor going bad, what is the specific new sensor should I order to fix this? And btw- it’s not showing any codes on my display screen. It’s a 2016 AC 500 alterra XL

It will take a little longer to settle down in colder temps but if the engine is warm it could just be the idle adjustment or the throttle body could need cleaned to clean the sensors. Do the RPMs settle back down when you blip the throttle lever? Or if you turn the bars full left or right does the idle seem high?

@@ArcticFrost When I blip the throttle lever it has zero effect. I’ve never tried turning the handle bars🤔(However the EPS is VERY weak while in the stationary position). Can you direct me to any videos on how to clean the throttle body sensor? I was hoping my problem was as simple as just needing to replace a sensor. It gradually and very incrementally started acting like this towards the end of this last summer. Some mornings, extremely cold, or comfortably warm, it will act this crazy way, or, it will just act completely normal. But the issue is increasingly becoming more and more common.

Turning the handlebars would just let you know if the throttle cable was adjusted to tight. Here’s a simple way to clean the throttle body. If you want to get into it deeper you can remove each sensor on it while it’s out and spray them off with cleaner and compressed air but normally this works fine. th-cam.com/video/oE-vQyGsCWE/w-d-xo.html

👍🏼 I found with them forward it’s more comfortable, and if you’re taller or the bars have a shorter rise you could even add bar risers.

That’s interesting, normally the TRV models have sway bars and stiffer springs.

@@allanj4576 I have a 2016 500 alterra but not sure if I have one. I don’t even know what to look for, but I’m going to look tomorrow even though I’m not sure what to look for

It’s the bar that connects both the rear the aarms. It you have the full size Alterra it might have one.

@ ok thank you. I’ll check it out. I have the 2016 AC 500 Alterra XL👍

For sure. 👍🏼

It may not be spraying from the injector. Does the injector click when you test it? Also, sometimes the fuel pump will lose pressure if the fuel pump our pressure gauge is going bad. On ACs they need 43psi, your grizzly may have a similar pressure.

Thanks, I’ll pull the injector out tomorrow. Just replaced the stator,but it has ignition. Any chance something with the new stator wouldn’t send an injector signal?

You could check the voltage and ohms on it. It should get battery voltage with the key on.

It’s probably gone bad, it should only be one click.

@@MTB_FANATIC99 This is a medium and I’m 6’ and it fits comfortably. The small will probably fit you better.

@@MTB_FANATIC99 Cool, hope you enjoy it!

I’ve had 4000 trouble free miles so far on mine. Just regular maintenance each year. The 700 is a good engine.

Yes, that sounds like the speed sensor could be the issue.

​@@ArcticFrostthanks for quick reply! 🫡👍

Can I get some help

The spacer goes in the top of the rubber grommet.

Glad it helped 👍🏼

Have you tried adjusting the TPS? th-cam.com/video/LLLv_-MdhX8/w-d-xo.html

Glad to hear you got it fixed. 👍🏼

Some axles come apart different. This one is on the inner cup but on your Prowler it might be the outer joint that has the snap ring to remove the outer joint and replace the boots. But yes, they would rather sell a whole new axle than just the boots.

Bondo normally ends up cracking, so it’s just the zip tie stitch look.

You may check the valve clearances. Do you have spark like it’s firing? th-cam.com/users/shortsGC-TpaKjdtk?si=hfnJ-YHdO_ufRHKE

@ArcticFrost ok, I will check the clearence first. I have a spark, but I will check the connection on the plug/cable too like in your short Video.

@@ArcticFrost valve clearance checked, intake was of, adjusted now to 0.1mm, exhaust to 0,2mm Compression is at 110psi. But it still doesnt start

..Bad news, checked again compression, only 3 bar (45psi), after putting some oil in the cylinder compression raises to 5 bar (75psi), so piston/cylinder is damaged. I will disassemble this weekend. I plan to buy new piston and cylinder. Would you recommend to check further parts out of your experience?

@@sg195286 if the piston is okay and the cylinder doesn’t have deep scoring marks than you may just get new rings put on. If not I normally end up doing the cylinder and piston together. Just check your crankshaft deflection (side to side) when you’re in there but normally they’re okay.

Sounds like something is off with the air/fuel mixture. Could be the fuel pump not giving enough pressure or the carb is not adjusted properly or has some sort in it. It might run okay when it’s cold but when it gets warm it will cause it to act up.

@ I sent the carburetor away to be cleaned, as whenever I would try to start it with the choke it was a pain in the you know what. Perhaps since then could something not be right?

You may have to pull your flywheel cover again and check that the shift gear is in the correct position.

Glad it helped

Here’s how to resync your EFI system th-cam.com/video/5mnc3PAVihQ/w-d-xo.html

Nice, would love to find one of those some time. I haven’t had any major issues with ACs, they make some good machines.

It might be that the injector needs cleaned or the fuel pressure is out of spec making the air/fuel mix off.

@ArcticFrost im gonna start by cleaning the system out bro.. thank you 🙏🏾

@@daves485 this one doesn’t have a lockout.

Does it have good fuel pressure?

As far as I know . I checked fuel injectors and they seem good.. had Isc valve out cleaned .. did all resets .. runs fine off idle above 2000ish rpms.. but idle rough and at slow speeds or stops wants to or will stall. Rpms range from 900-1350 on idle ​@@ArcticFrost

Does it have good fuel pressure?

@@ArcticFrost yes 42 lbs New fuel pump New battery Runs fine after spraying gas in to it

@@ArcticFrost could it be in the throttle cable setting

It is. I thought it used to be just Zaskar now there’s LT Elite and Expert.

I'm ordering one on the 20th of this month and you can get it from GT straight from their website it's 989

It should only turn one way when you spin it by hand. It’s bad if it spins freely or yeah, could be removed.

@@ArcticFrost appreciate it!

There’s this quick attach one or Powermadd has one. The old style windshield should still mount up to the bars as well.

What year & model?

@ 2009 arctic cat 550 efi h1

This video should help you read codes and show how to clear them th-cam.com/video/GjBNnlUykqo/w-d-xo.html

Yes, it should work on all Arctic Cat ATVs and UTVs with electric fuel injection.