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Enjoy it!

Glad it helped!

Thanks. Good to keep your vin written down somewhere when you get an ATV.

Dry rot can get cv boots. You’re welcome, hope you can get it going again!

You can clean your carb with cleaner and compressed air to blow out any particles. Also check your fuel pump is giving the right fuel pressure.

Glad it helped. Hope you can get your ATV going.

What’s your battery voltage? You can get it load tested to see if it still has enough cramping amps.

I haven’t

Sounds like a great time on the ATV.

We all have that one time without one right? 😂

Does the starter spin? You can apply battery voltage to the positive terminal on the starter briefly and it should turn over.

Unless I’m crawling out of somewhere or pulling I mostly run in high. It’s okay to run high RPMs, you just don’t want to hold it at its limit for long time. Running around country roads or getting to trails you can definitely pin it for a bit without any damage.

@@ArcticFrost Thanks! Is 6000-6500 rpm’s too much in high gear range for driving up to 4 or 5 miles without stopping in your opinion?

👍🏼That’s normal on mine

4 wheeler is what I normally call it too. A machete would be handy, though sometimes the branches are pretty big. But I like not having to carry a whole chainsaw.

@ArcticFrost 🙂👍

Thanks, hope it helps.

If you’ve removed any plugs on the throttle body you’ll need to resync the EFI system using this procedure. th-cam.com/video/5mnc3PAVihQ/w-d-xo.html

@ArcticFrost I did not remove the TPS sensor. In this case, do I still have to do what you show in the video?

​@@ArcticFrostMy atv won't start. I checked the fuel pressure, when I turn the ignition on the pump hums and the pressure is 38 psi and then drops to 35. Is this pressure enough?

You should have constant 43psi fuel pressure. If it drops the regulator or pump is bad.

Did you replace the choke?

I switched to the single pad engagement but when it gets cold it’s definitely worse.

@@LuisLechuga-vh5bt on Arctic Cat EFI models you’ll need to sync the EFI system th-cam.com/video/5mnc3PAVihQ/w-d-xo.html

2.5L if you’re doing an engine overhaul, 1.9L if you’re just changing oil.

1.9L for an oil change on a 550.

I had a large first then got the medium. GT’s sizing seems to be bigger than the Nukeproof and Ragley I have that are both size large.

@ArcticFrost why return the large how was it too large for a dude 6ft

You could either get a hitch mount or have to do a custom made mount to the frame.

Yes, the EFI sync is the same for most EFI model Arctic Cats. th-cam.com/video/5mnc3PAVihQ/w-d-xo.html

@ArcticFrost 💯THANK YOU 🙏!

U0155 is lost communication to the gauge which could be a loose connector or broken wire.

You might try cleaning the carb with some cleaner and compressed air.

Have you checked the wiring to your components? Check for voltage?

@ yes and I figured it out.. mice chew up a couple more wires in there so I splice it back together she’s up and running.. now I have to get some mice repellent in my shed thank you for responding back

Glad it helped, now you’ve got more options!

I don’t remember if the Tcat had one at the rear. But to double up, I got a plug splitter to run the heated grips and winch off one plug.

Depends on how much draw they have but it seems like you should be okay off the plug.

Now time to add some goodies! 😎

@ArcticFrost upfront its time to get this engine running. It still doesnt work. After checking the compression again with my chinese gauge it shows 6bar. Spark is wet, ignition is there, compression is low but not to bad. No chance to bring this engine back to life. Yesterday I brought it to an ATV Workshop, I gave up, they should check ignition timing and compression again and should work out, what the issue is. Then I will fix it or let them do it.

Multipurpose. 🔄

If you give me az e-mail , i can send you a video

You may have to pull the top end to check if the cam sprocket is worn.

@@ArcticFrost Many thanks your Answer. So When the chain tensioner is in and the chain is tight, I can lift the chain by hand. It also moves to the side a little. Could the wheel be worn? Is it enough to replace the wheel, or do I need to replace the chain as well?

@@ArcticFrost I sent you a short video to your e-mail address. Many Thanks,

Normally it is just the chain that will get worn or stretch. If you can wiggle the chain or it has lots of wear on it it may be stretched out and need replaced.

A multitool would be a good addition and an adjustable wrench. 👍🏼

This is the bearing inside the clutch cover.

@ I feel silly for not even knowing that there’s one there. I replaced my wheel bearings based off your other tutorial video regarding wheel bearings. I have a 2016 AC 500 alterra (don’t know if it will have bearing inside clutch cover like yours?). So is it just a matter of taking off the clutch cover to get to it, and then inspect and grease it? I don’t want to mess anything up.

A wheel bearing greaser is a good tool to have if you ride in water!👍🏼 The clutch cover bearing is pretty easy to get to. Pull the clutch cover and it’s right inside. Just be careful pulling the seal on it but they pop out fairly easy.

@ 10-4! Thanks 👍

The tensioner would just keep your chain from jumping timing, then if the timing is off it won’t run right. A rod knock could be a bearing on the crankshaft. If you rotate the engine over by hand is there a place it sticks or clunks?

Yeah, it can be time consuming to pull the fenders but I’m ready for snow now! 😎

@ Yes indeed🤙 Me too! Hey Arctic Frost, a separate, but serious question here: You know how when you first start your ATV and it idles high for a few seconds and then automatically idles down to a normal 1300 rpm’s; If you start to notice that sometimes it’s taking longer to idle down and/or sometimes seems like it’s sticking at that high idle even if the engine is sufficiently warm, what do you think is happening, or if it’s simply a sensor going bad, what is the specific new sensor should I order to fix this? And btw- it’s not showing any codes on my display screen. It’s a 2016 AC 500 alterra XL

It will take a little longer to settle down in colder temps but if the engine is warm it could just be the idle adjustment or the throttle body could need cleaned to clean the sensors. Do the RPMs settle back down when you blip the throttle lever? Or if you turn the bars full left or right does the idle seem high?

@@ArcticFrost When I blip the throttle lever it has zero effect. I’ve never tried turning the handle bars🤔(However the EPS is VERY weak while in the stationary position). Can you direct me to any videos on how to clean the throttle body sensor? I was hoping my problem was as simple as just needing to replace a sensor. It gradually and very incrementally started acting like this towards the end of this last summer. Some mornings, extremely cold, or comfortably warm, it will act this crazy way, or, it will just act completely normal. But the issue is increasingly becoming more and more common.

Turning the handlebars would just let you know if the throttle cable was adjusted to tight. Here’s a simple way to clean the throttle body. If you want to get into it deeper you can remove each sensor on it while it’s out and spray them off with cleaner and compressed air but normally this works fine. th-cam.com/video/oE-vQyGsCWE/w-d-xo.html

👍🏼 I found with them forward it’s more comfortable, and if you’re taller or the bars have a shorter rise you could even add bar risers.

That’s interesting, normally the TRV models have sway bars and stiffer springs.

@@allanj4576 I have a 2016 500 alterra but not sure if I have one. I don’t even know what to look for, but I’m going to look tomorrow even though I’m not sure what to look for

It’s the bar that connects both the rear the aarms. It you have the full size Alterra it might have one.

@ ok thank you. I’ll check it out. I have the 2016 AC 500 Alterra XL👍