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Thanks, Craig! I’m looking forward to having a bit more time to make some! 🤣🤣

Thanks, Ian! Merry Christmas! ☺️

Merry Christmas, Dr. Rob!! All the best to you and yours, bud! ☺️🎄

And to you, Phil! I hope you’re ok!

Thanks, Danny! Good to hear from you! All the best to everyone there, pal! Stay well and good health to you all in the New Year!

😆😆 Definitely not a snowy winter for you all then! All the best to you and yours, and may your Landy not see too much dust on the inside! 😉

Merry Christmas to you too - Does Calgary’s have snow yet? 🎄

Thanks, Dave! And to you and yours, bud! Stay well and all the best for the New Year!

Thanks, Bossman! It’ll me my first time back for Christmas in 16 years, so it’ll be a nice chance to spend Christmas with mum and Grandma!

Thanks, Ian! All the best to you and yours too!

Same to you! ☺️

You can find me on insta with the same handle and numbers.

I haven’t had the disco for a while now, but I ran Delvac until I should him. I’m running Mobile 1 or Castrol Edge Professional in the Rangy (whichever is cheapest) at the moment.

Thanks for your feedback!

Geez! That’s a big question! So the 2010 RRSs are a bit of an oddball. The original sports were built on the D3 platform, but they got quite an upgrade around 2010 when they rehashed the whole works. The vehicle was quite significantly redesigned around the new 5.0 engine. Certainly the relevant issues with the 5.0 are preserved (though you don’t have the isolator issue with yours not being SC), but the vehicles are pretty robust by this time. The 6 speed is the usual weak link with various solenoid issues and others. It’s a shot in the dark as to whether or not to service the transmission - I always have, but I’ve always caught it too late to avoid the gearbox flutter associated with the SF boxes. There’s some issues with electrics and electronics, but these are usually hammered out by this time. You may want to check the air pangs for cracking and perforations, but you’ll need to dangle the wheels to do so. As with any vehicle, you should test absolutely everything - including the rain sensor on the windshield and dim dip lights. Follow the test procedure I give for the L322s, but translate it over to the RRS and you won’t be far off. The similar components between the full size and the sport mean that, broadly speaking, the issues also crossover. There are a few specific issue to the RRS, but they’re not likely to cause issues and I wouldn’t bother checking for them as they have likely been fixed. I’d just make sure that there is a recent alignment and that the rear bearings are ok. Check the front suspension bushings too, as they do give trouble. You should check the wonders out, though, as sports are often driven much harder than their full sized brothers.

255/55/20 is my favourite size for the L332. It affords you a bit greater stance with the same width as stock. It will, however, throw out the speedo (but setting it is no big deal and I’ve shown how in one of my videos on the Nokian Outpost ATs). I can’t answer the question about loudness because I don’t know what you have currently nor what you’re moving to - the height of the tyre will have nothing to do with loudness, but the tread pattern and rubber compound will. What are the used tyres you’ve found?

Hmmm, The flappy paddles are only a direct for the MY10 onwards. It is possible to do it on earlier MYs, though. I think Matt has a good video on how he ended up putting them on in an O5. I don’t recall how he did it, but I do recall there was a lot of messing about running wires from the transmission up to the steering wheel. If you TH-cam paddle shift on a Range Rover, I’m pretty sure Matt’s video will come up - it was his video that prompted me to make mine, as there was nowhere presented how to do it on an MY10 and up!

Thanks for the subscription, and I’m glad it helped! ☺️

You are very welcome! When you see other reviews, they tend not to be real world use, which doesn’t help the regular owner! Glad the video helped for you! I’m sure they’ll be great on your Suburban!

You’re welcome!

Thanks for the kind words, Frank - and I am sorry to hear you also lost your dad. It’s a big loss we all bear (or most of us) at some point, but it doesn’t make it easier to shoulder.

Hey Frank! Thanks for sliding by, and I’m pleased that you enjoy the content. That’s a lot of questions, and I’m slightly out of the UK game now, but I suspect you’d be well starting off with either a Disco 3 or an L322. In the UK you have diesels, so either of those lumps would be relatively fuel efficient, but I suspect the Disco would be better for you on insurance. The L322 is a much nicer riding vehicle, but early D3s have some hard wearing surfaces that you can bash about a bit in ways you can’t on the rangy. The rangies are also a bit higher on the tech front and may need some higher level support (MOST entertainment and optical canbus systems - though they don’t often through trouble). Go as new as you can afford; fortunately, rangies are quite inexpensive there now (they’re double the price here). You should be able to find a nice TDV8 for not all the money. That’d be my preference. There’s lots of support on channels like mine too, with some people having UK experience and counsel on the diesels. So you shouldn’t get out of your depth. Buy whatever has the best history, as this is usually a good sign of maintenance and owner care.

@ thank you very much for your answer! Will have a look at L322 TDV8s. I think the D3 is quite heavy at 2.7ton and heard they are very bad reliability wise. Supposedly the L322 is more reliable? I guess it depends what engine you have. How often do things fail after it’s been serviced and everything fitted new? Is it expensive to repair and keep in good condition? Thanks a lot!

I went off-roading for the first time ever the other day and it was cool!

It’s very complicated to answer these questions accurately and effectively. The D3 is heavy and not very economical, but later models are more reliable - the post 2009 facelift are much more reliable, but they ruined the interior! The L322 is generally more reliable post 2007, but they are also more complicated and less capacious! You have to pick where you sweep the dirt under the rug! I really liked the D3, but mine was a bit of a lemon - that said, so was my 2020 New Defender after 6 month!

Glad to hear it! Go steady and remember that wide throttle openings can be expensive sometimes!

The Bridgestones are a nice road tyre, but they’ll spill you in winter! You really can’t beat the Haks - in all tests they outperform any other winter tyre, so they’re definitely the way to go!

No, the ATP is a softer (less aggressive) version. They’re good tyres, but are more road biased.

I would say that it depends largely on your region. 0W-20s is good if you’re in the very cold (like here, where it gets to -40°c). In the extreme heat, 5W-20s may be good, as you will help protect the engine when the oil is under pressure. 0W-20s is the recommended oil, and I’d think that frequent changes are likely more important than the difference between 5W and 0W-20s. You should definitely use a synthetic oil, and one which meets the JLR specs. I doubt that 0W-20s will help stop this issue, but frequent oil changes certainly will. I’m planning on doing a video on oil fairly shortly when my buddy gets some spare time!

Well, aggressive tyres are not much use on the 90% of time the defender spends on roads! Additionally, mud tyres are well known to be disastrous in snow and ice; a dedicated winter would likely have been better in some of these conditions and the crossover AT tyre is needed to manage the adverse road conditions in the mountain roads (the road ice build up is significant in the Canadian winter). Tyres do make a huge difference, but it’s unreasonable to have three or four sets (I always run two - with a dedicated winter being out on for the winter months).

Nokian and other manufacturers really do need to spit out more talk and skinny tyres - they’re currently catering to the aesthetics not the practicalities (which is odd, given that their job is to maximise traction). I’m running 275/55/20s and they’re too wide for most uses, but the height is good. Like most hardcore tyre groupies amongst us, a 255/60/20 is the perfect size, but not made by anyone hardly!

Sunday morning from Canada looking right back atchya!! Hoping your full English was good while you streamed full-on Firthy in your kitchen! Thanks for taking the time to slide by! I love hearing from you all and I’m glad to add some content after such a while!

It’s good to be back, Dave, owd lad!

Thanks! I’m pleased to be back and have something that might be useful to everyone! No, when you pull that pipe, do it with the engine cold (as everything back there gets super hot); no coolant comes out at the time, though when the screw broke I did hear some rushing air into the pipe, so there is a small amount of vacuum there likely due to the cooling down of the water in the system. I’m sorry, but I don’t yet have the part number for the correct screw! I’m going to reach out to JLR this week to see if they can track it down better. The QR code for the brass part off Amazon is on the video somewhere, but I don’t yet have the JLR part number! I’ll tag you in it when I get it!

☺️☺️ It’s good to be missed! Thanks for the flowers!

😂😂 Aliens FTW! 👽👽 The conferences were largely targeting ethics of space activities, but there was also a focus on the search and communication with ETI (extra terrestrial intelligence). My research is on the latter, though the parameters of life are academically challenging, as current definitions are insufficient and may be misdirecting search efforts. My research is in the social and political philosophy of space that discusses and engages the nature of communication and the dominant dispositions of Earth in a first contact scenario. I argue (amongst others) that the human response would become aggressive in accordance with our habit of letting insecurity direct our actions towards others in an aggressive or preemptive manner. I claim that such actions would be potentially catastrophic in the event of a proximal (close encounter) first contact. The biggest challenge is that academia in the humanities and some sciences, considers this sort of thing to be science fiction, and the sciences involved with it at a functional level (astrobiology, astrophysics, space geology etc.) think that they should be able to direct the ethical constraints themselves - which, for very obvious reasons, they shouldn’t! I could go an about this for ever, as it’s become my academic passion, but it’s definitely moving away from Land Rover talk!! 🤣🤣🤣

Thank you very much!! ☺️☺️ I am humbled! I’m pleased that you enjoy the channel and are finding the content useful! I didn’t expect the channel to take of like it has!! If I’d had know how this fix was going to turn out, I’d have started recording earlier, then I could have recorded the screw removal (which was arguably the interesting part). It’s been a very challenging few months (well, years, given the split with Taryn), but it’s nice to have the support of you guys 🥰

I’m not sure now - it’s been a while since I sold my Disco, sorry!

Thank you for sliding by! I’m pleased it was helpful!

No, it had two, but I only replaced one, as the other was good.

@@shedlock2000 understood. Thanks. I have same model and year and was wondering.

I appreciate the comment!! It’s great to have you here, and thanks for the flowers! (I’m still learning on the video skills - it’s a process)!

Thanks! I’m in a bit of a lull at the moment because I’ve so many other things on, but I’ll be back at it soon!

I’m not saying they’re a bad engine at all, but they did suffer chronic heat related issues unless you dropped in a different stat; they’re just a bit under powered compared to the later AJV8s and were always bolted to the chocolate 5 speed box! They definitely sound well, though, and they don’t pull badly either! I’ve driven a few and I rather like them (especially the sound, which is much better than the AJV8’s tone). Like most mechanical things, the devil is in the details. Looking after them is key to longevity. The engine in the BMW format and applications tends to be longer lived (though it too had VANOS issues with long oil changes), but I think they did better because they ran cooler! I’ve had the engine in a number of BMW vehicles over the years and rather liked it - though I would prefer a big inline 6 given the choice (that said, there is something right about a V8 in a rangy).

@@shedlock2000 Well said, and I do agree a V8 and a Ranger Rover are a perfect pair. I'm looking to buy a 2011 TDV8 as a second L322 for long journeys, going to take a look at it tomorrow. Your video helped me a lot to make a list for things to check out! :) Buying used is always a minefield, and I really don't like the recommended oil change interval set by Land Rover. Regular people who change their oil every 25000 km (as per recommendation of Land Rover) are really not doing their vehicle any favors. So even if they've been taking care of their vehicle according to the manual, it's still not great. And people in my country rarely keep a record of oil changes. They just wing it. I change the oil on my M62 every 8000 km, and keep a fastidious record of everything I do to the car and what it needs. I wouldn't have it any other way.

Hey! Sorry to hear about your window (and sorry for the delay, I’ve been out of signal). Windows stuck dune can often be a limit switch fail, a fuse, a switch issue, or a BCM (Body Control Module) failure. It’ll be pretty complicated to figure out which, but you can start by a hard reset (remove both leads from the battery and, completely separately from the battery, hold the leads together for 30 seconds. If that doesn’t work, then you’ll need to start diagnosing other things! Hope that helps!

@@shedlock2000 i disconnected the battery in the trunk for like 4 hours then put it back together, but didn’t hold the leads together. Did not work. Thanks so much for your response

@@sp00f34what vehicle is this on? The battery you need should be under the bonnet on the right side of the vehicle. The only batteries I’ve ever seen in the rear are secondary batteries in a Range Rover.

@@shedlock2000 it's a 2018 range rover supercharged. It's under the spare tire in the trunk of the vehicle. we had it diagnosed and the guy said its going to be 1200.. the estimate says "window regulator". upon looking up that item, it's 100 dollars. Is this impossible for a normal mechanic to replace or is 1200 the right price?

Yeah, the part not called a ‘regulator’ functions as a limit switch - the old limit switches were exactly what they describe, a switch which limits the movement. We old hands still call the regulator a limit switch because old habits die hard! Sorry for the confusion! Make sure you only price up OEM parts for your rangy. There are cheaper parts available, but they generally don’t last very long and you have to replace them again, which costs more in labour. You don’t need to source the part from JLR, but they do need to be OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) - the component is made by the manufacture that produce the part for Land Rover (you can source them from many places not just Land Rover, who add a premium to buy from them). The $1200 will reflect the cost of replacing the part and removing the code. Most places charge quite a bit of money to plug the vehicle into their computer to help cover the cost of buying the computer which is expensive. I suspect they’ll be quoting for a genuine Land Rover part, which will be about 1/3 more than the OEM part and they will add a part-source premium. This means the part will be billed at roughly twice the price you might find it for elsewhere. Replacing regulators and window stuff is annoying, as the door card has to come off, and the window mechanism has to be manipulated to get at the regulator. This is a bit fiddly and can take some time. I imagine they are charging you about $300 for the regulator plus about 4 hours of labour, tax, and a computer reset charge. $1200 is a bit high, but it doesn’t surprise me. To answer your final question, a mechanic could do the job relatively simply and I would want to pay about $500-600 for it (it is fiddly) - assuming that an OEM part is $100 (I’ve never looked into buying a 2018 regulator, so I don’t know how much they would be). You will be able to find someone to do that for you at an independent garage if you can find someone dependable (the dependable part will be the challenge - not all independents have experience with Land Rover stuff and you should strongly avoid anyone who has no familiarity with them. The shop will also need a computer capable of resetting the code (which shouldn’t be a problem; it’s only a BCM code, so nothing very challenging).

The jack is nothing fancy, and came from Princess Auto (a cheap bulk-sales company), or something similar! I’ll check when I get back home!

@@shedlock2000 3 ton correct ?

@@timdmx512yup!!

I’m unsure which bit you didn’t understand!?

No. But not all body panels are consistently installed from vehicle to vehicle (meaning you may experience some while others don’t). I think I had a slight rubbing on full lock in off road height or when at maximum articulation off road, but nothing at road height. The Cooper AT3 XLTs are slightly bigger than the 4S variant, and idk about the KO2s (I’ve run them and don’t really like them).

@@shedlock2000 Thank you for the information. I have the same large mud flaps as well.

The flaps do get close near where they mount, and they can rub depending how they were positioned and mounted, but mine were good. JLR don’t always take a lot of care in putting them on, but you should be ok!

Hahah! A colonialism… ‘mess around with’ or ‘attempt to adjust/pull/remove’.

You’re welcome!! Good luck!

Hey, That’s a tricky question because it depends how the codes are logged. So take what I’m about to say with some levity. The bad or poor quality DEF error is usually logged as a function of inadequate performance and is problematic. Draining and refilling the DEF tank will not make the code go away unless the system detects better quality DEF. It *might* be possible to make a hard reset of the vehicle by disconnecting the positive and negative wires to the batter and touching *the wires* together off the battery and holding for 30 seconds to a minute. However, if the codes are hardcoded, then it will need a computer to remove the codes. The GAPIID tool has some functionality and can clear some codes - but it depends on if the sensor continues to detect inadequate DEF. To reduce that risk, you will need to clean out the injector (which goes into the exhaust). It’s a major PITA, and I do know a few people who were able to clear the codes. However, when my injector broke off, I did need JLR to reset the code, as the GAPIID would not - even with the new injector fitted. To be honest, I am not certain how the poor quality DEF is identified, and I suspect that such errors are actually some type of DEF injection issue. Using only the best quality DEF is critical (as I mention in this video).

You are very welcome! And thanks for the sub!!

I can’t help you on an RV, but the defender is plated up to 8200lbs. My rule of thumb is that large heavy trailers tow better than short light ones, but I also don’t much like going over 3/4 of the rating. That means you’re still fine at 6050lbs - and legally comfortable above it. I have, of course, towed heavier regularly with the defender (and have even gone above the recommended towing capacity… 🤫) and they do it with ease. However, bear in mind that to ride comfortably, you need to extend the tow hitch somewhat as shown here (which means in North America that your nose weight will be too heavy - adjust by loading more to the rear of your trailer). You won’t have any issues with power or handling, and if you spec the right one with the advance tow functions, it’ll help you back it up and give you tow assist for breaking etc). I’ve a photo somewhere on my insta (shedlocktwothousand) with the defender towing a bunch of cedar shingles and tar paper. It scaled out at 11,450lbs and towed it perfectly fine for 500km. It did not perform well on fuel, though!

@@shedlock2000 Thank you for the response, very helpful. I let the deal fall thru... unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be a good candidate for me.. maybe I'm just old, lost my Man Card years ago but.. things like being unable to open the rear door for the dog, extending the hitch or moving the power jack to the side, etc. all seem like too much for me. I've seen some that have moved the tire to the roof, thought about that but... damn. If I had a small trailer, like the rPod you had (jealous) then I would do it for sure.

Sorry you let the deal go - I’m sure it would have been a good vehicle for you! Moving things isn’t actually that difficult - the place you bought your trailer off should have helped. The RPod was a grand little trailer, I miss it a lot.

Glad it worked!