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Crispy Crimps
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2023
On a Mission to get 10.000 People to Climb V8
Hate Slopers? Watch this Now
Hate Slopers? This is a short guide that shows the 3 main steps to approach any Sloper. Not only that I've added a few exercises and extra tips so that the next time you come across one you can fight it!
Related Videos:
th-cam.com/video/ukEFW8I-Qp8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Eu8Qhli31oQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/6IlmKUMbYgQ/w-d-xo.html
Timestamps:
0:00 - Step 1
2:27 - Step 2
3:45 - Step 3
5:32 - Movements / Exercises
6:52 - Everything in Action
7:12 - Bonus Tips!
Instagram: crispycrimpsclimbing
Disclaimer: This video is for educational purposes only. Any information shared is based on personal experiences and research.
Related Videos:
th-cam.com/video/ukEFW8I-Qp8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Eu8Qhli31oQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/6IlmKUMbYgQ/w-d-xo.html
Timestamps:
0:00 - Step 1
2:27 - Step 2
3:45 - Step 3
5:32 - Movements / Exercises
6:52 - Everything in Action
7:12 - Bonus Tips!
Instagram: crispycrimpsclimbing
Disclaimer: This video is for educational purposes only. Any information shared is based on personal experiences and research.
มุมมอง: 2 691
วีดีโอ
I Asked BPUMP Setters Why it's So Hard?
มุมมอง 10Kวันที่ผ่านมา
Today I interviewed 2 BPUMP Routesetters and also share a bit of my personal experience from working here at BPUMP for over a year. This video is made to shed a light on BPUMP grades not only with personal experience but also the people that actually set the problems and a special guest who is very strong Timestamps: 0:00 - Why BPUMP Grades are Harder 4:36 - Hot to Convert to Real V Scale 7:49 ...
World's Hardest V5?
มุมมอง 7K14 วันที่ผ่านมา
This is the second video in my series Road 2 V10 BPUMP Edition. Depending on who you ask, I try to send something that could be the world's hardest V5. BPUMP is famous for setting hard technical boulders so join me in my quest to send the hardest grade in the Gym before my Visa expires Related Videos: th-cam.com/video/jcbofjBcbyk/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/agCzVBs1tNk/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/v...
BPUMP Tokyo's Strongest Employee
มุมมอง 21K21 วันที่ผ่านมา
Today I climbed with Hayato Nakamura, the strongest employee of BPUMP Tokyo. He is not only a BPUMP employee but also a sponsored athlete with an impressive resume. Join us for a 6-hour session and see for yourself why he is BPUMP Tokyo's Strongest Employee Hayato's Insta: haya.nakamura Instagram: crispycrimpsclimbing Related Videos: th-cam.com/video/jcbofjBcbyk/w-...
the rumors are true
มุมมอง 4.1Kหลายเดือนก่อน
I reveal why the rumors about me are true and my true connection to BPUMP Tokyo... Related Videos: th-cam.com/video/6IlmKUMbYgQ/w-d-xo.html BPUMP's Instagram: bpumptokyo Instagram: crispycrimpsclimbing
Short Vs Tall Climber BPUMP Edition
มุมมอง 3.9Kหลายเดือนก่อน
In climbing there has always been a heated debate between whats better, being a tall climber or a short one... Usually being tall gives you and advantage but is that still true in japan? Will this statement hold true at BPUMP Tokyo? I came to test it out with my friend Azamin, a short climber at only 161CM. Related Videos: th-cam.com/video/6IlmKUMbYgQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ukEFW8I-Qp8/w-...
Road to V10 B-PUMP Edition
มุมมอง 8Kหลายเดือนก่อน
Welcome to my new series Road to V10: B-PUMP Edition. I'll be trying to aim for one of the hardest grades in the legendary BPUMP Tokyo. V10 has always been an epic grade which is why going for it at BPUMP seems like an impossible goal. Follow along to see me succeed or fail miserably, but I'm sure it will be a fun journey. Related Videos: th-cam.com/video/6IlmKUMbYgQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/vide...
My Science Based Climbing Warm Up
มุมมอง 11K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Discover the ultimate climbing warm-up routine in my latest video, "My Science-Based Climbing Warm-Up." This quick, effective, and efficient 13-minute warm-up has been a game-changer in my climbing journey, helping me progress from V4 to V9 in just one year at BPUMP. It's based on sports science and will take your climbing to new heights. Join me as I break down the science behind each exercise...
The Climbing Iceberg V0 → V7 Explained
มุมมอง 22K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, I share the 4 fundamental keys that most amateur climbers don't know how to apply correctly. These insights have been crucial in my climbing journey, and I believe they can help you too. Stay until the end for a special free resource to help you apply these concepts and improve your climbing skills. Free Assessment: drive.google.com/file/d/1rRedprp44ReST8O835RlrXoM5AVEIar2/view?u...
Average Climber goes from V4 to V9 in 1 Year
มุมมอง 58K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Average Climber goes from V4 to V9 in 1 Year
I'm not sure the grading at the Akihabara B-Pump is 3 grades harder than average. I found it somewhere between 1 and 2 grades harder maybe. V2 felt like V3 or V4 depending on the climb. I only had 3 sessions there but after 2 sessions I could send v4 in a single session. In the UK I probably flash v4 50% of the time, will often climb v5 in a single session and v6 is my project grade that usually takes multiple sessions to send. I was able to send v4s at b-pump in a single session so think V5s there would be doable if I had the time to project them. On the whole I found the grading one v grade harder, my wife found it was closer to 2 v grades for her.
Thanks for the tips man... unfortunately slopers hurt my wrists a lot. I am open to any suggestion . Great content 💪
Great channel, can see you growing in the future. Keep up the great work :)
You should have uploaded this video two days before.. not yesterday 😢 I missed a cool slopper one yesterday
Lol! Sorry, shoulda known
Haha, the slopers in the video seems decent enough. Sadly I cant really apply most of the tips, my gym’s slopers dont even make sense mostof the time.
What do you mean they make no sense?
So while the T tip is really good, some of it are at really weird angles, and no place to put the feet 😂
That's a good video, thank you! But I would like to clarify that the friction isn't dependent on the surface area in contact. You spoke about the palm leaving the hold, and so changing the surface area, but what I think is changing is the normal force to the hold, that is correlated with the friction.
Thanks for the correction! I'm not sure about the physics behind it so just said what it feels like to me
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Your intuition is actually right! The comment above is true for flat/linear surfaces and inelastic objects. In climbing, skin folds and molds to the holds as you grip (especially with slopers) so the contact area is actually proportional to friction. ThreeRocksBooks has a good article on rubber/skin friction in climbing if anyone is curious on reading more. Temperature actually plays a large role as well.
For sure! I just know from personal experience you want cold hands (not too cold) and warm rubber
Great video, I really need to take a look at my shoulder and elbow position (always have had bad shoulder mobility). Also, I'd add a 3rd tip: keep your fingers together. The surface of your hand is the same whether you spread your fingers or keep them together, but having them together makes it so they also are rubbing against each other, so you can even the force you're exerting onto the hold a bit more, so no one finger will lose grip and then make the whole rest of your hand slip off.
Thanks! Shoulder mobility can be really limiting but the good thing is you can always work it!
For me slopers are like a hack to climb higher grades. I have pretty weak fingers, but that is not stopping me from climbing hard on slopers.
Same here lol
V6 in my gym...
Where are you from?
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing NJ usa
Ive been putting off working on slopers so long so this is my wake up call 😂
Came in at a perfect time!
Don't listen stupid unconstructive comments, You're doing great, man, and you have more than enough personality if people aren't able to see it, it's their problem😌 Your reference to the terminator movie had me laughing 😂 PS: thanks for the ice, my eyebrow is better now 💪🏻👹
Glad to hear you are better!!! Yeah I don't really mind it gives me a chance to show funny stuff. And 99.9% of stuff is super nice so it helps balance it out, otherwise I might just let it go to my head 😂
I've only been climbing for a couple of months and have weak wrists from previous injuries, are there any good exercises to help strengthen them (maybe to do in warmups)? Vids are awesome btw :)
I would recommend trying the false grip pull ups, the more you angle the wrist the harder it will be, the good thing is you can start slow and adapt. Also maybe try with a dumbbell forearm flexor and extensor curls
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing thanks man I'll try next time I'm on the wall 💪
Give it a try and tell me how it goes! Gook luck Julian 🔥
I like your channel. You understood quickly that it’s not just about you (you are a very good storyteller which helps) but about the people in your world that won’t put themselves in front of a camera. That won’t tell their stories. Loved this video ❤
Thank you!!! Yeah for me this channel is not about me otherwise it would be called Marcos Climbs or something. It's the videos I would of loved to see before I came to Japan. So I always think of videos that will give you guys value, either by showing my own struggles, tutorials, climbing with someone cool or anything like that
APMS was awesome mate
I've been told I'm a marketing genius 😂
V2
I think it was V3 but it's not at bpump
It might just be the moment to watch some @Vinh Giang videos... just saying! PS.: I am also Marrrcos
Can you smile? 😂 I'll check it out
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing hahahaha sorry I couldn't help but trolling. Actually I need to apologize and say that I like your channel, and thanks for the advice. That said, it is true there is some room of improvement in the non verbal language area(if you are interested, constructive critic comes at the end of the comment). I also should add I run no channels and I am not saying I could do it better. Most likely I wouldn't be able as I am pretty much not interested in being a content creator. Constructive critic below: Obviously Jenny Benny sucks, but the fact that you took the time to use about 1min of an 8min video to reply is that there is something in their message that hurt / annoyed you enough... you devoted a 12% of your video to that after all. My first thought is - it is not worth it. My second thought is that I can see you clearly reading the text out of your screen. Your tone of voice and facial expression are not engaging. This is not me bitching, it is just a fact. That said, I don't follow your channel because you are a great communicator, but because I think you are providing very valuable information towards my learning as a climber for free. The fact though, is that this leads to less success. Final conclussion - this is none of my business, but I think it would help you a lot if you turn annoying jennybenny comments into an opportunity for improvement. But whether you wanna do it or not is only on you, and ultimately, not even that important. Thanks a lot for the advice with sloppers, I actually really struggle with those and with keeping myself close to the wall. PS.: I actually can't stop smiling, but my recordings of myself also suck.
Hahaha yeah don't worry I do take everything as a learning chance and have a list of stuff I have to improve that I have learned about my videos. After all all I want is better videos for you guys. By thought process for the jenny Benny bit was actually to show I have a personality even if I don't smile but maybe for the first time viewer it's not worth it, but I think for someone that watched all my videos it is a way to connect and make them laugh. I have to work on my camera presence for sure and just as you said it does affect how well people receive the info and their experience. I do think there are people that pull it off like Davie504 but I don't think I can. As always thanks for the criticism! And if you have more I'll take it gladly, you guys already helped me notice about all the music and audio stuff I suck at (I have bad hearing) so I'm all for it
I watched it even though I love slopers
😂 love you man
ty for the tips MarRRRcos, keep the great work man, love the vids
GRRRacias!!!
1st, learning 🤓
🔥
What a nice channel, kudos to TH-cam's recommendation algorythm. My best climb at BPUMP Tokyo is 3kyu, 2kyu and above looks impossible.
Thanks!! I think that's always how it feels when looking up, but the only way to climb 2kyu is climbing 2kyu... Right? 😂
I just recently started bouldering for the first time and reached 6b/v4
Epic!!!
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 💪🏽
Hardness is not sandbagging - regardless of grade there are just a lot of hard boulders there.
Yeah 100% true, grades are relative to each gym and just as you said there's just a ton of hard stuff
Going to Tokyo just for B-PUMP in a couple of month's time and super psyched to experience the climbs there and getting a real taste of utter defeat haha. Your v4 to v9 video is super inspirational to me because I started to lose direction in progressing but I think you helped me figure out smaller goals I need to work towards to in order for me to become a better climber. Excited for you to hit 3 million subscribers before Magnus does ;)
BPUMP Is a great goal to have, even if you get here and get humbled it's all a part of the process! These types of messages are why I kept making videos after that first one. Seeing people inspired by my experience is something that still blows my mind, I'll keep on making videos and improving and I'll see you when you come to Bpump 🔥
nice video, really liked it!
Thanks Charlie!!
I think the issue is largely due to the conversion table being super outdated. There's been grade inflation in gyms across the globe that Japanese gyms have simply not experienced. It's happened as gyms have commercialized over the past few decades and target a newer demographic wanting to encourage the perception of more progression (faster gratification)
I think there's that but also in Japan I've experienced the opposite and by opposite I mean grades have been getting even harder. Since nobody want to add a new tape because that would devalue the others + make it a problem in the future 😂 but the level is constantly rising grades tend to get harder over time
Wow, crazy insane, BPUMP gyms > European for sure.
I haven't been to Europe but I would love to, now that I've been here I think I'll benchmark every single place I go to in the future against it 😂 I think you should check out my Bpump grades video if you haven't, I think it's a good insight in the differences with other gyms th-cam.com/video/_gmyVwp0X7c/w-d-xo.html
I climb at bpump Akiba 2-3 times a week, and your videos have been really informative and encouraging! Look forward to future videos and hope to say hi to you sometime 😊
Thanks Mike! I'm always glad to help out and I'll keep them coming 😁 By the way have you ever tried out the English DOJO?
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I've wanted to try it out, but my folks and I usually climb Tues and Thursday evenings. I know it's on mondays, at least for this month! I'm interested in leveling up to around light blue tape since I am currently climbing white and some light blue tapes. If the dojo also teaches around that level, I'll definitely make some time for that!
Ohh I think you might be a bit to strong for it 💪 but that's a good thing. I would still give it a try, I aim to set around white tape but sometimes moves trip up even 1Q climbers 😂 Yeah it's always on Monday night's from 8-9pm
really an amazing style he has
Yeah it's crazy!
Really Nice video and tips for the best!
Thank you! Which one helped you the most?
Honestly, from personal experience, most commericial gyms in NA are very soft, almost to an insane degree. Bpump Aki felt about 1 grade harder on average I think, but some climbs were about the same as my home gym. Bpump Ogikubo was more around 1-2 grades harder, but same thing in the sense that the climbs felt similar in difficulty, just a very different style.
Thanks for sharing, I'm curious! What grade range do you climb and where in the US? Most customers from America told me + 3 and from Canada and Europe +2. Personally I can't compare since I've only climbed twice in America and it was a long time ago
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I climb around V9-V10 in my home gym in BC, Canada. Most gyms in the area are similar, but some are easier or harder of course. I would say some gyms I've been to in the US were definitely -3 from bpump gyms, but I think that very much ties into them being commericial gym so softer boulders means more climbers usually. At bpump aki I sent a couple brown tape and got every move on a handful of green tape, but didn't send any. At ogikubo I sent 1 brown tape and tried a few green. I'm looking at the grade scale that they put at ogikubo and I take back my initial statement, that gym is +2-3 if you go with what they say on their scale. Keep in mind I only went for one session at each gym so it felt about right, the V9-10 boulders usually take me a session or two depending on the boulder.
Epic! Getting those things in a single day is what I aim at. You're an inspiration! Ohh you are from Canada! I've been told by Canadians that it was +2 for them so it seems Canada is a bit harder than the US. I would love to go on a trip over there and try it out for myself Any gym you recommend?
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing In Vancouver, I have a bias, but Base5 Coquitlam is good for routes and boulders (though I can't say things will stay good going forward, lots of people moving around). The Hive North Shore has a good range of boulders, but their gym uses a grade scale rather than specific grades. There is a new gym opening in Vancouver called Progression that will likely be one of the best gyms here, so be sure to visit that one if it opens while you're here. For most gyms here I wouldn't be too concerned about grades and more just enjoy the climbing. In Montreal, Rose Bloc and Bloc Shop are really nice. I'd say the grading sometimes is always a little funky, but it's difficult to keep things exact with indoor boulders anyways. If you do visit Vancouver, best thing to do is hit up Squamish haha.
Yeah I've seen rose block and block shop in the Richardson's videos looks pretty sick. Would love to try everything out
don't mind me just here to help the algorithm, great video again ! good luck on your journey & please take care of yourself :)
Thank you for your constant support Mr. Freeman!
Bouldering V grade conversion: Traditional: V5 UK: 6b B-Pump: v0 bro
😂 V0 until the hardest grade
I really want to try climbing at BPUMP but I don't think I will get to Japan anytime soon, but probably one day I will get to Japan. Nobody cares but recently I had a chance on going on a climbing trip to High Tatras(closest mountain range to me), and I had a chance to lead a trad multi pitch, which was my first trad lead ever, and I can safely say I did pretty well. All in all it was a very awesome experience and I would definitely recommend climbing outside once in a while if you can.
Epic!! I love outdoors and used to do a bunch in the past, especially for lead but lately I don't have much time so it's hard 😅
how are you so boring bro get some personality and smile or something
I tried to but it didn't work!
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Sorry I was being mean. Pretty good vid
3:30 is this a legit before and after of hip mobility? I struggle with stiff hips due to lower back injury but this seems like a very dramatic before shot.
The shot was for demonstation purposes but very true, that is not something that happened in a year but more like 3 years. Having said that probably 70% happened in one year in japan. I had a hamstring tear a few years back so it was especially bad. My family always made fun of me for being so stiff, I swear its not an exageration
The last boulder is the same from emil's video there
Yeah! It's a 2D that was one of the final boulders for the Iichiko 2024 Comp. its pretty crazy to think that 3 climbers got the send in less than 4 min but that's the japan team for you 🤣
+1 for the race against Magnus 🤞
Thank you my friend! Rolito88 for ever
Great content, insightful questions, and formatting. Subscribed! :) I've only been to Bpump Aki early this year and only managed up to 3Q and it was hard. But it was such an experience to climb on such intentional set routes with very specific beta where technique/ climbing IQ trumps raw strength; made it so much more rewarding. Can't wait to visit Japan again.
Thanks for the sub Eric! We'll be waiting for you when you're back 🔥
Thank you for sharing rare insights from BPUMP route setters! I love the point about climbing IQ. I've seen a lot of gyms set ladders, especially for the lower grades. But sometimes as the grades get higher, they still set ladders but with harder holds. I think setting more technique/beta dependent boulders would help people become better climbers!
Yeah I know what you mean, that feeling that the only way to climb harder is to train and be stronger is not something bad but that's just one of many things so having a group of route setters that promote that type of climbs really drives the need to improve everything not just strength
keep doing videos man, love the content
Thanks!! I'll keep it coming 🔥
very good insight. I agree with the video, especially about the climbing IQ. If people think of "why did I fall" and not trying to do the route the exact same time constantly, and failing again and again, and become more confident they can easily climb 2 grades higher, thats at least what happened to me. I look forward trying to see what progress I've made in B-Pump as well tape-wise
Yes!! Exactly, plus it helps you see climbing as so much more than just I have to be stronger or pull harder on this move, it's really easy to default and think it's just about trying harder but at least for me that's an easy trap to fall into. In the long term spending time finding the beta and learning the move makes it much better
I’ll go unsubscribe from magnus to help win the race. I’ll re subscribe when he sponsors you in 3 months.
😂 Don't do that please! We love papa Magnus. But thanks for the support 🔥
Making this video was a ton of fun even though adding the subs too a while 😅 Thanks to Aki, Hayato and Asahi for willing to put their faces in to help explain a bit more of what we need in order to succeed climbing here, check out their Instagrams in the description!!
Great insight sharing from strong Japanese climbers. I hope for more
Thanks! What's something you would want to see?