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But doable😂

Screw? It broke off?

You will have to get the part of the screw out that broke. Match up the screw and put a new one in

@@theshootinggallery5621 yes snapped as I was tightening it back on

Yes it does an e4 inverted torx is what the tool to use however a 4mm soclet will alao take them out when needed both are right.

I've done both ways

Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults). Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals. I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults. I plan to replace the piston rings. Would you suggest the timing chain as well? I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together. Thanx, Mark ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.

Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults). Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals. I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults. I plan to replace the piston rings. Would you suggest the timing chain as well? I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together. Thanx, Mark ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.

@@Mark-gg6iy if the truck wasn't smoking or giving any sign of blow by aka bad piston rings , then LOOK AT the cylinder walls and see if you have ANY wear in them ! If no noticable wear in the cylinder walls and no previous indication of smoking or blow by then leave the piston rings alone don't touch them ! As for the oil pump , yeah you could replace it , but again did it have good oil pressure ? Then leave it alone ! Drain the oil pan very good , hell wash it out with kerosene and flush it out with a fresh quart or two of cheap oil , make sure they use NEW yield to torque head bolts at proper torque specs and SEQUENCE when replacing the head ! Yes I would definitely replace the timing chain and tensioner and guide with NEW timing set gears and all ! Use rtv sealant provided with kit on oil pan between the timing cover and the front of oil pan and DO NOT crank it till it dries for 24 hours !

@@markharris4260 Thank's for the rely. Yes, I agree with the rings, I was getting carried away. No previous sign of a problem, no oil lost during normal operation so I'll leave it alone, same with the oil pump. Apparently, OEM high-volume pumps are difficult to come by from my reading. The coolant pump I think might be a good compromise. Again no sign of any issues. The radiator was recently replaced. Yes, I'll drop the oil pan and clean with attn to oil pump pick-up screen. I'll be doing the head bolts and understand about torque-to-yield bolt sequence & obeying manufacturers' recommended installation practices (drop of oil on threads & bolt head mating face for example). The manufacturer recommended timing chain replacement of 80-120k so if I have the original it's more than time to change. Understood about the cover sealant installation and delay. cheers. Do you think crank-bearing inspection a good idea when the pan is off? Apparently, this motor has issues with this.

@@Mark-gg6iy if the engine wasn't knocking or making any strange rumbling sound then I would probably not go to the extra work to remove the oil pan and inspect each crankshaft main bearing , as you may or may not know you have to almost remove the engine to get enough clearance between the frame and oil pan to remove it completely ! If there is no and was no oil pan LEAKS prior to you working on the truck I would just remove the timing cover ( it's aluminum ) and be sure to remove the STUDS that protrude through the timing cover at the very bottom and go through the front bottom of the oil pan as it makes removing the timing cover much much easier , and in case you didn't know it's NOT just a 4 mm socket that you use to remove the timing cover lower studs ( be sure to remove the oil pan front nuts first which thread over the timing cover studs their 10 mm ) but use the hex type socket for these studs their called STAR SOCKETS for male fitting studs as the hex star socket is made perfectly to fit these power studs AND here's a TIP if you can ONLY get the passenger side stud out that's fine as the timing chain cover will still be easy to remove wit the driver side stud still in the timing cover ! It happened to me so I know !

@@markharris4260 I was unaware the oil pan could not be easily removed. Yes, I have gathered sufficient YT info on the timing chain cover removal & reinstallation. Thanks for all.

100% DEFINITELY TWO BROKEN FRONT LEGS!!! Both are either Fetlock or Cannon. The second last buck he landed awkward on his right front, which I think fractured his leg. Then as he did his last buck (when the rider hit the dirt), all the load on his front legs caused them both to snap. Thats why he did the weird spread before landing on his belly. Because he couldn't push off his front legs properly. I thought the same as you at first but watched it over and over in slow mow and close up to see where it went wrong.

This wasn't a horse race.

You blind? TWO FRONT BROKEN LEGS OFF LAST BUCK. Near Fetlock and Cannon