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1.3 cdti Fiat engine that they fit in Peugeots and Vauxhalls

Thank you! It’s only because I’m camera shy! 😂

Thanks!

Glad it helped you!

Around 5-6 hours I think - it can be done quicker if you have no problems and are used to doing the same job 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 Merci

I did 5:16 - it’s not very clear. This isn’t an instructional video, it’s just a bit of an experiment for me. How’s your new unit by the way? All working out ok I hope! 👍🏼

I think it was 25nm but don’t quote me

Ok. I thought the same. Thanks

I would like to say yes, but at the moment I’m booked for 3 weeks ahead, and struggling to get through the work I currently have. So I’m afraid I would have to say I’m sorry but I can’t take a look at it. I appreciate the shout though! Hopefully you can get it looked at by someone who can maybe do a clean like orileys does 👍🏼

Sorry to hear that

Thank you! It’s just a bit of fun/experiment really, not a full on guide 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 You did great but, why make it so difficult to get to the belts? They're service items

@@zambotv8150 if you think these are bad, look up the 1.0 litre ecoboost engines!! 10-12 hours job!!

@@ttatimbo5830 My mate has a breakers yard, he's making a FORTUNE from those ecoboost engines, they're failing all over the shop

Can’t remember exactly but around 6-8 hours ish book time - I think it took me about 5-6 hours maybe

thanks for the info. keep up the good work 😀

@@ThomBruisschaart no problem Thanks for the compliments

Yeh they probably recommend it but it’s not essential.

@ttatimbo5830 maybe not, but for a $7 part why cheap out

@@LA_Commander I will certainly be replacing it on the next one 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 Sounds great brother. See you in 150,000 miles!

@@LA_Commander well, hopefully they last that long! But I doubt it! 😢😂

You are right, however, I doubt very much that the crank bolt will fail, and seeing as the pulley is an interference fit, I don’t suppose that will be going anywhere any time soon. I’m certainly not the best mechanic in the world, and don’t make myself out to be. But I have a few years experience behind me, and I’m not too worried about the crank bolt. Next time however, I will be sure to use a new replacement 👍🏼

That’s shocking! Sorry to hear that - hope you get a resolution soon!

I think it’s just a common problem. I asked a few mechanics I know and researched it online and the most common cause was the low pressure egr cooler being blocked. The reason it blocks on the Audis is because the adblue gets caught up with the soot due to the way the dpf is configured. When I called up audi to price the parts, I happened to mention the code and they said yep that’s 99% the cause! There is now a way of cleaning it that you can try before you start replacing parts - search TH-cam for Audi p2002 and a guy called jimmy orielly will come up - he shows you how to clean it - takes 2 shots of cleaner a certain way and you have to unplug the MAF so the egr doesn’t open, which would draw the dpf cleaner into the inlet and hydro lock the engine if not careful! Watch his video he will show you how to do it 👍🏼

Hey @kisszolesz92 having the same issue. Did you find a issue? Thanks.

​Yes, it was indeed the EGR cooler! It was not just clogged, but was leaking water as it was internally cracked at the cooling holes. ​@@ARM1886 I later puzzled the things and realized that I was loosing coolant in the past months slowly - so slow that you would not suspect a leak, but apparently it was through those cracks. It has been replaced, and runs with no fault for 4 months.

Yeh it does seem ridiculous the idea of putting something that was made using oil, into an environment that is full of oil! I think it’s done for efficiency, as there is supposedly less drag/resistance using this wet belt instead of a chain system?! 🤷‍♂️

@@ttatimbo5830 in all respect to you, i worked for ford for 26 years mainly machining crankshafts, 3,4,6 and 8 cylinder and the changes over time i have seen are incredible to save a few pence per item, if it costs shall we say 1 pound for a belt but 10 pound for a chain they will take the 1 pound belt even though its inferior, as say 10 million transits sold over time times a 9 pound saving over a far more robust chain is 90million pounds, and this is all they look at, great video by the way, oh and the ransit belt is so fragile looking compared to say a vw which is far chunky and stronger looking

@@deanbaker6456 oh right! Yes that is a massive saving! I didn’t look at it like that, but then I didn’t realise that it would have been cheaper to manufacture things like that. As for you working for Ford - that’s interesting! Where abouts did you work? Was it Dagenham or somewhere else? 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 Bridgend, south wales fella, its closed now, most of my time there was machining v8 crankshafts for jaguar engines , but i have worked on cams, rods, blocks and heads

Steadily with no problems 4-5 hours If you have done a few and it all goes well 2.5-3 hours maybe Rear wheel drive I haven’t done yet - you need to remove engine mounts and crossmember which means supporting engine somehow. If you don’t have air con, it’s probably easier to remove the whole front for a nice amount of access.

How did you get on with the RWD? I did one recently and although with the front off, access was easier, I found the job harder! Crank pulley bolt was incredibly tight to remove without flywheel holding tool! Took 3 of us to get the bolt out in the end!

Little harder rwd as the cross member has to be dropped Must prefer fwd . Doing another rwd this week good money

@@fredrich99yeh I haven’t had the pleasure of another rwd lately, hopefully soon. Yes they are good money although I didn’t charge lots for the last one I did, although the total job was a large amount, but that was a full service also, plus some suspension works, amongst other things with the timing belt.

If it’s a 2019 focus, the chances are it has the 3 cylinder 1 litre eco boost engine in it, not this 2 litre eco blue engine. I think the timing belt interval for both engines is around 140k miles but I would advise changing the belts and checking/cleaning out the oil pump strainer at 80k. That’s my opinion though. I looked at a 2013 fiesta eco boost engine the other day and 92k miles the oil pressure warning light has come on and it has no oil pressure. The pump is completely blocked. The timing belt may not have snapped, but it’s shed enough material to block the pump. Unfortunately the owner has been driving round with the light on and too much damage has been done internally to justify the cost of repair.

Should have changed the oil a lot more often than every 10k. I would recommend 5k intervals. Reason being the dirty oil contaminates the belt, causing it to fall apart and break over time. Frequent oil changes can help extend the life of the belt.

@@LA_Commander I agree - Early oil and filter changes with correct spec oil is the most you can do to try and maintain the belts

Thank you for watching! I’m south east in Essex, but to be honest I’m not doing this to generate work, it’s just a bit of fun, and so I can look back at some of the work I have done. Thank you though 👍🏼

I took the sump off, cleaned it out, and cleaned the oil pump. Maybe I didn’t show that boot in the video as clearly as I could have. The breathers were clear. I also missed that out I’m afraid.

He did that. Watch the video again

Becsuse the water pump isn’t driven by the timing belt, and can be accessed at any time A lot of timing belts drive the water pump and so if the water pump fails if can cause the belt to fail or come off. - this engine isn’t like that 👍🏼

Ah nice one good tips thank you! I have jacked some engines like that to remove sump when doing the timing belt/chain, but this way was suggested to me and I just stuck with it The intermediate shaft and re using crank bolt hasn’t caused me any issues….yet. Surprising I didn’t get sent a crank pulley bolt when ordering from fords…..

I think I charged around 5-6 hours labour for this job, but I’m not really doing the videos to generate work. I’m south east in Essex. But appreciate the ask! 👍🏼

Hi, can you plz give me your contact number to arrange the timing belt change for Ford tourneo custom 2017, reg YB67HWA

It supplies power to the modules/systems that run the engine etc 👍🏼

Lmao Stu!! 😂😂 Think I charged 5 hours on this can’t rmemeber

What is your hourly rate?

Depends, but usually around £50 plus vat

Would be around £700 off the top of my head, but as I said in reply to your other comment, I’m not really looking/touring for work, just showing what I did and experimenting with TH-cam 👍🏼

Essex - I’m not touting for work, just a bit of an experiment with videos/TH-cam - not really a guide but helps me remember exactly how I did certain jobs and highlights some of the procedure for people who might be interested 👍🏼

I have several. The old timing pins were too thin and snapped. I would advise locking the flywheel through the starter motor hole with a flywheel lock tool. But, on this occasion, I used a thick timing pin from an EcoBoost timing kit - I then torqued the bolt first which I believe is 40Nm, then paint marked the bolt head, and used an impact gun to do the final 90degrees instead of using a breaker bar. This method is tricky and still needs the timing doubled checked after the crank pulley bolt is torqued up. I would strongly advise using the correct procedures on autodata for example. I have done many of these belts over the last 20 years or more so have worked out my own way to make the job quicker 👍🏼

I can’t remember if the timing hole for those is the same as this one which is at the front of the engine near the gearbox behind the radiator area, or if they might be underneath the gearbox/engine like the Vauxhalls - good luck

@@ttatimbo5830 cheers mate is it a hole or is it a slot ? I’m starting to think they lock off behind the flywheel, we’ll I know they do lock behind the flywheel with it removed but I was hoping I had the option you had also

@@lewiscross7194 I think it’s just a hole Yeh I originally thought they locked off behind the flywheel, which they do, but there is a hole at the front of the block/gearbox same as in this video

Many thanks 🤝

Thanks It’s not a great instructional video as I’m working so I don’t have time and I’m not great on camera! You can, there are ways to clean it I have since found out that you can do without removing the low pressure egr. There is a guy who does it called orileys on you tube - although I could do the same job, he does it day in day out - uses a dpf cleaning gun system like I have in this video but he does it a certain way to get to the low pressure egr system 👍🏼 Will try and find the video and link it

Try watching this link - th-cam.com/video/Ue7EMF8puLc/w-d-xo.html

Hi @babiq2108. Did you end up sorted it out and what was the issue? Thanks

Hi I *think* it’s 150Nm according to my data program. And you must renew the bolt (can’t remember if I did in the video!) I did check online and it says 15 daNm which I believe is deca Nm (which is basically 15x10Nm = 150) but please make sure you double check - don’t want you to snap the bolt in the camshaft!

@@ttatimbo5830 thanks

Yes that will help it as you we effectively moving the connections around inside. But it may happen again in the future, which may mean you need to do the soldering repair. Glad it helped you, thank you for watching! 👍🏼

Possibly, but I cannot map things out, and the customer wanted to retain the original egr and dpf as he lives inside the ulez zone

@@ttatimbo5830hi. Where are you based? I’m around Harrow. Just switched from a 2015 Seat Leon 2.0 TDI FR estate to a 2016 A6 2.0 TDI Ultra 190 with adblu, to realise and ask myself what have I got into? 😂 1 owner 111k mileage full service, I just want to make sure I can prevent this happening somehow, and if it does happen, either do myself or get someone like yourself. How can someone contact you in the future? Asking for a friend 😂

@@japanluv kind of you to ask, but I’m not like orileys, I just make this video as an experiment really. I haven’t done enough of them to say I would take them on as a paying job. This one was an old customer/friend who basically begged me to give it a try, and I decided to video it. He paid me of corse, but it’s not a job I would make a habit of doing I’m afraid. Too much risk of fittings and pipes breaking which could potentially cause a nightmare!! There are guys like oriley who clean them with the launch dpf gun, using the launch fluid. But because the dpf is level with the engine you have to make sure you do it the right way so it doesn’t hydrolock the engine. Another reason why I don’t take them on, just in case! The on car cleaning method is a lot cheaper and quicker, and a fairly reliable way to do with a good success rate so I’m told. Sorry I can’t help but good luck in getting yours sorted 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 Thanks. I’ll try to have preventative measures rather than reach that point. If it happens, I’m only an hour and a bit from Bedfordshire to go to him 🤗 Have a lovely weekend.

@@japanluv​​⁠good luck and you too👍🏼

Actually removing the old and fitting the new part, from opening the bonnet to driving the car out of the workshop, took 8 hours which is pretty much book time. Running it up to test for any problems, bleed the cooling system out and cleaning out the dpf took about another 3 hours, test driving and then checking coolant level and for any fault codes was done on the 3rd day before I took it back to the customer. If it all went well, and I did another one, I think I could manage it in 7 hours from opening the bonnet to driving out, but the cooling system etc would still be a few hours on top if you count that in the time. 👍🏼

Hi what would the job cost with parts & labour

@@JamesBrown-df2tj it was a lot. I charged £1380 with vat, but if I did the same job again next time I would Definately charge £1500 and no less. It’s a chunk of money for the parts alone, and the labour is quite big. Not to mention if anything was stuck or broke, you need to cover that time plus whatever breaks. Most other companies I called were either £2k or just didn’t want to do the job! You can apparently unblock them another way now without removing all the parts, but it’s still about £400 and that’s if it works. If it doesn’t then you will have to do the replacement. 👍🏼

@TTA Timbo Thanks for your reply and yes i totally understand how much work goes into doing the job! I am having issues with my a6 ultra same engine code 🤯

@@JamesBrown-df2tj sorry to hear that. As I said, next time I will charge more OR I will try the cleaning method I have seen as I have the kit to try that now. If you do it a certain way it works apparently

This was intermittent at first, more so when hot, would turn off the ignition, then try to re start it, the radiator fan would run, and the starter wouldn’t operate (no crank). Locate the module, check the solder joints, mine were cracked. Re-soldered all the cracked joints and it fixed the issue. Radiator fan then didn’t run when the ignition was switched on and the engine would crank over and start again every time. Had another one shortly after in a friends garage, exactly the same issue although it happened randomly. Re-soldered and job done 👍🏼

If you look at 2:25, you can see a large Allen key is put into the side of the cam cover behind the turbo. That’s the position of where it locks out the cam. I didn’t want to move the turbo so I used an Allen key instead. It’s not the best way to lock it but I have always done them like that. I may have used a lock tool/modified tool in there but I can’t remember. Sorry the video isn’t really mega clear or in detail. I just did it for my own entertainment really, but if it helps someone out a bit then great 👍🏼

@ttatimbo5830 I was thinking if you lock it from the back, can you get away without locking the front with the cam's teeth locking together.

Ah yeh I see what you mean Yes you could probably do that Locking both cams is a bit belt and braces ….

Sorry to bother you again. I'm just making sure you lock the top first and then lock the one on the gearbox.

@@chrishirst7716 I think I locked the bottom end first but I may have used the front cam as a reference to roughly find the locking point on the flywheel

Ok ok it was just me! 😂

Thanks Stu!

@@ttatimbo5830 genuinely would watch more. Maybe gets some ads on the videos . I’d watch the ads

@@stu600cc ads?

@@ttatimbo5830 I don’t know how but you can put ads on the videos the get money from them

@@stu600cc ahh I seee TH-cam do that automatically when you sign up to be paid. But I’m a long way off that yet. You have to have a certain amount of subscribers and hours watched before they will sign you up 👍🏼

Cheers Had nothing much going on so thought I would do it. Not particularly interesting but there you go! Someone might find it useful or entertaining I’m sure! 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 the editing is getting better

You think so? Editing takes an age as you know, and it’s easy to lose interest while you are doing it. I certainly don’t have the patience to make it more interesting or fun. But it’s interesting for me to just try and capture what I’m doing and kind of chuckle when I’m watching myself trying to be ‘interesting’ 😂

@@ttatimbo5830 exactly i laugh at mine

If you have done it a few times, it takes about 4-5 hours With regards to cost, the timing chain kit came from a local motor factors but I think you can get them cheaper online now but from memory £150 should get you the timing chain kit, and oil filter and some oil if you shop around 👍🏼

If you have done it a few times, it takes about 4-5 hours and are fairly competent with the right tools. First time it may take a bit longer. I think the book time for that job is 7-8 hours but I can’t remember exactly. With regards to cost, the timing chain kit came from a local motor factors but I think you can get them cheaper online now - £150 should get you the timing chain kit, and oil filter and some oil if you shop around online 👍🏼

@@ttatimbo5830 so if you cant do it yourself,labour charge of around £300 not including parts?was that a high mileage car? Whats the rough estimate on timing chain life on this car,as i have one myself and like to keep on top of maintenance

@@camperp195 yes £300 is a rough figure. The timing chains rattle if they haven’t been oil changed enough usually. This one had 125k on it and the guide was so bad that it had chewed it literally all the way down to the last few centimetres! That’s why it was making a noise!

@@ttatimbo5830 ahhh ok,mine had 47,000 on it,it now has 52 thou,it was owned from new by an old fella who passed away,anything that went wrong on it he stuck it into the dealer to fix( which i wont do) but iam servicing mine every 5 thou,instead of 10 thou,so hopefully should be ok for a while 👍

Used to load my cbr in 15 mins flat, but it was smaller and I didn’t have shelves, tool box and a toilet fitted back then! 😂